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Blackburn Buccaneer S.2C by CDW & AJohnson - FINISHED - Airfix - 1:48


AJohnson

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1 hour ago, Canute said:

I had the pleasure of flying in the first Red Flag exercise with the RAF Buccs back in I think '78. Very professional bunch in the Flag Ex, but a riot after-hours.😄 And they seemed as big a jet as my Phantom.

A good friend named Steve Porter was an Air Force fighter jock. He told me a story about flying with Buccaneers at Red Flag, probably in the same era as you, Ken. Steve flew an F-16, and if I remember correctly, he flew F-4's before that. Sadly, he passed away a few years ago but I still recall his wit and humor, along with his sharp mind. He was involved in Emergency Management after his Air Force career, the Homeland Security stuff that came about after 9-11.

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A very much loved aircraft type in the SAAF as well, good old British engineering at its best!bucc0015.jpg.e29487752f3d1ed67915d30aaf64491e.jpg

Samuel Pepys notes in his diary on 19 July 1667: "the Dutch fleets being in so many places, that Sir W. Batten at table cried, By God,says he, I think the Devil shits Dutchmen."

 

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I'm still not released from DIY duties by the Admiral 🙄, but I have acquired a few bits to pimp up my Buccaneer when I do get the Green light! :pirate41:

 

P.E. Cockpit and seatbelts, Canopy masks and metal refuelling nozzle / pitot tube.

 

Just need to check on paint stocks to make sure I have everything I need.

Bucc-05.JPG

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After looking for the color callouts, realized the only callouts I could find were on the side of the box top, and they were for Humbrol paint numbers. While I have a ridiculously large assortment of paints from various manufacturers, very few are Humbrol, and my favorite paints are Mr. Color which I have in large supply. This set me off on a web search for a conversion chart so I could learn which Mr. Color paints corresponded to the Humbrol numbers provided. This lead me to a good website for the conversion and I wanted to share it with you here:

Convert From Humbrol-General - ModelShade

Just type in the Humbrol numbers you're searching for then hit enter, then click on the color reference and all the various other paint manufacturers colors for that Humbrol number will pop up. Nice little program someone did there. Sure is a big help to modelers like me.

 

Is it always the case that Airfix only gives the color call outs on the sides of their box? Surprised I could not find them anywhere on the instructions or on the color fold out pages as well.

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7 minutes ago, CDW said: 

Is it always the case that Airfix only gives the color call outs on the sides of their box? Surprised I could not find them anywhere on the instructions or on the color fold out pages as well.


Airfix usually has colour call-outs in the instructions as well. Look for uncircled numbers in each step. 
 

This is a sample image of the 1/72 Buccaneer instructions (Scalemates doesn’t yet have the 1/48 instructions posted). I’ve circled in red some of the paint call-outs:

 

286C9486-5F89-496C-96F8-08439807DB8B.thumb.jpeg.378d9f4ee9625de118bf2650d5825236.jpeg

 

Hopefully that helps! The numbers in triangles refer to previous assembly steps, and the circled ones are part numbers.

 

Andy

Quando Omni Flunkus, Moritati


Current Build:

USF Confederacy

 

 

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36 minutes ago, realworkingsailor said:


Airfix usually has colour call-outs in the instructions as well. Look for uncircled numbers in each step. 
 

This is a sample image of the 1/72 Buccaneer instructions (Scalemates doesn’t yet have the 1/48 instructions posted). I’ve circled in red some of the paint call-outs:

 

286C9486-5F89-496C-96F8-08439807DB8B.thumb.jpeg.378d9f4ee9625de118bf2650d5825236.jpeg

 

Hopefully that helps! The numbers in triangles refer to previous assembly steps, and the circled ones are part numbers.

 

Andy

Thanks Andy.

I didn't state the question very well...what I meant was, the outer box lid was the only indication that Humbrol paints were the exclusive reference that corresponded to the numbers. it took me a while to figure that out. I was looking all through the instruction pages for something that at least provided a color callout, IE; Gunmetal or Desert Yellow, or ???. Unless one has a Humbrol color chart, you really don't know what color you're looking for.

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11 minutes ago, CDW said:

Thanks Andy.

I didn't state the question very well...what I meant was, the outer box lid was the only indication that Humbrol paints were the exclusive reference that corresponded to the numbers. it took me a while to figure that out. I was looking all through the instruction pages for something that at least provided a color callout, IE; Gunmetal or Desert Yellow, or ???. Unless one has a Humbrol color chart, you really don't know what color you're looking for.


Ahhh, I see what you’re saying!

 

Here’s a reference I use:

 

https://www.sunwardhobbies.ca/humbrol-paint-colour-selection-chart

 

At the very least, it has the colour name alongside the reference number.


Andy

Quando Omni Flunkus, Moritati


Current Build:

USF Confederacy

 

 

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13 minutes ago, realworkingsailor said:


Ahhh, I see what you’re saying!

 

Here’s a reference I use:

 

https://www.sunwardhobbies.ca/humbrol-paint-colour-selection-chart

 

At the very least, it has the colour name alongside the reference number.


Andy

I have one hobbyshop locally that stocks a small selection of Humbrol paints. I asked him about possibly carrying the full line and he said it's more than he can afford to invest...too many paints. As it is, I have already invested to too many different lines of paint. I've got most of the Mr Color range, many of the Aqueous range, many of the Mig Ammo range, Tamiya, AK, and quite a number of automotive specific lacquers of various brands. In retrospect, I over-did it. 🙂 The last thing I want to do is invest in another line of paints. Oh, heck, I forgot to mention all the tons of Vallejo paints I have as well. 🙄 Way too much.

Edited by CDW
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5 minutes ago, CDW said:

I have one hobbyshop locally that stocks a small selection of Humbrol paints. I asked him about possibly carrying the full line and he said it's more than he can afford to invest...too many paints. As it is, I have already invested to too many different lines of paint. I've got most of the Mr Color range, many of the Aqueous range, many of the Mig Ammo range, Tamiya, AK, and quite a number of automotive specific lacquers of various brands. In retrospect, I over-did it. 🙂 The last thing I want to do is invest in another line of paints. Oh, heck, I forgot to mention all the tons of Vallejo paints I have as well. 🙄 Way too much.

 

I think one could write a doctoral thesis on the multitudes of hobby paint lines and cross references, and still not have everything sorted out… 


As you alluded to, the best bet seems to be to stick to one or two (or three) paint lines that offer a decent enough range of colours, that you’re comfortable working with, and are happy with the “close enough” option for colour selection.

 

Andy

Quando Omni Flunkus, Moritati


Current Build:

USF Confederacy

 

 

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Hi Craig, yeah Airfix only provide Humbrol Colour numbers, simply because they are the same company (both brands belong to Hornby Plc now).  So you can see why they promote their own paints, but as Andy says there are plenty of conversion www sites out there that compare the wider international brands and standards like FS etc. 

I am slowly moving over to the Colourcoats range by Sovereign Paints as the quality of their enamels and colour accuracy is much better than Humbrol imho.  I received my batch of Dark Sea grey this week from them. 😁

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6 hours ago, AJohnson said:

Hi Craig, yeah Airfix only provide Humbrol Colour numbers, simply because they are the same company (both brands belong to Hornby Plc now).  So you can see why they promote their own paints, but as Andy says there are plenty of conversion www sites out there that compare the wider international brands and standards like FS etc. 

I am slowly moving over to the Colourcoats range by Sovereign Paints as the quality of their enamels and colour accuracy is much better than Humbrol imho.  I received my batch of Dark Sea grey this week from them. 😁

Wasn't  the  Humrol/Airfix  factory  in Hull?

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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16 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Wasn't  the  Humrol/Airfix  factory  in Hull?

 

OC.

It is slowly coming back to UK shores, the new 1/24 Spitfire IXc is made in the UK after many years of the kits being made in France then Asia. Humbrol paints have been re-shored for some time, just a shame the quality and longevity of them is so poor (the enamels I am on about). I have some old enamels that are decades old (no exaggeration) and the are fine with a good stir, the new Humbrol paints you are lucky if they last more than two years once opened. 

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It’s interesting to me the way this hobby has progressed. Seems like not too long ago, a cottage industry appeared where someone would create a master part to upgrade an existing kit, then fashion a limited run mold to manufacture replacement parts from cast metal or resin. Later on, the molds improved significantly and resin upgrade parts got a whole lot better, those first ones being pretty crude sometimes. Today it’s a new ballgame. These resin upgrades are drawn in 3D cad then printed out using 3D resin printers giving just an incredible level of detail, practically flawless. I plan to build the kit supplied plastic seats just to compare them to these 3D printed resin ones. Very fine details are visible in the replacement seats.

 

AAFB0ABA-01B0-4297-9278-22B1B944C06C.jpeg

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1 hour ago, CDW said:

It’s interesting to me the way this hobby has progressed. Seems like not too long ago, a cottage industry appeared where someone would create a master part to upgrade an existing kit, then fashion a limited run mold to manufacture replacement parts from cast metal or resin. Later on, the molds improved significantly and resin upgrade parts got a whole lot better, those first ones being pretty crude sometimes. Today it’s a new ballgame. These resin upgrades are drawn in 3D cad then printed out using 3D resin printers giving just an incredible level of detail, practically flawless. I plan to build the kit supplied plastic seats just to compare them to these 3D printed resin ones. Very fine details are visible in the replacement seats.

Yeah a few years back we came to the conclusion that this is the direction the Am market is taking... we are seeing more and more direct 3D printed aftermarket today... (and some full 3D printed kits) The current main business model is still molding and casting after the 3D print master is made, for faster reproduction...

 

But with the investment in machines, 3D printing will wind up as faster still with no need to replace masters or molds... higher initial investment, but less production costs in the long run...

 

We all predicted it a few years back, and we are beginning to actually see it now...

Edited by Egilman

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

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The kit ejection seats are very well molded it appears to me. A side by side comparison of the Eduard seats next to the kit seat sides shows the Eduard ones slightly more detailed, but not by much. I needed seat belts and harnesses, and that’s the primary reason I bought the Eduard set as the set vs the belts alone was a small cost difference. Kudos to the Airfix molds. Very good so far IMO.

32A443E5-1342-4C42-86C7-18289F0E170C.jpeg

29687128-14FB-456C-BFFB-0684CFE59A93.jpeg

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13 hours ago, CDW said:

It’s interesting to me the way this hobby has progressed. Seems like not too long ago, a cottage industry appeared where someone would create a master part to upgrade an existing kit, then fashion a limited run mold to manufacture replacement parts from cast metal or resin. Later on, the molds improved significantly and resin upgrade parts got a whole lot better, those first ones being pretty crude sometimes. Today it’s a new ballgame. These resin upgrades are drawn in 3D cad then printed out using 3D resin printers giving just an incredible level of detail, practically flawless. I plan to build the kit supplied plastic seats just to compare them to these 3D printed resin ones. Very fine details are visible in the replacement seats.

 

AAFB0ABA-01B0-4297-9278-22B1B944C06C.jpeg

They look  neat  -  so  much fine detail.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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4 hours ago, shipman said:

I'd save the cash and stay with the clearly excellent kit seats.

And remember when we all made our own convincing seat belts?

Laser printing is fine, but is it art?

From what I can see, saving the money and sticking with the kit parts in this case would be a viable option. What little differences there are will get buried and mostly hidden from view once the cockpit is assembled and resting inside the fuselage. I have made my own seatbelts and harnesses before and they turned out presentable, but I still prefer aftermarket ones to my own. Laser printing isn't what I think of as art, but it does require a high degree of skill and knowledge to create the shape files and successfully print them. If I was a young man again, learning 3D file creation and printing would be high on my list of things to learn for this hobby. 

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4 hours ago, AJohnson said:

Looking good! 😁

 

I'll have to live through you on the build at the moment, but when rooms look like this, I can't see the Admiral being happy if I joined you just yet!

 

On the plus side it is woodwork! 😆

IMG_1577.JPG

Hey, I got your back. Been there and done that many times in the past. Momma and children always come first cause it’s the right thing to do.

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Some very nice work on the seats and seatbelts Craig!

Current builds;

 Henry Ramey Upcher 1:25

Providence whaleboat- 1:25     HMS Winchelsea 1764 1:48 

Completed:

HM Cutter Sherbourne- 1:64- finished    Triton cross section scratch- 1:60 - finished 

Non ship:  SBD-3 Dauntless 1:48 Hasegawa -FINISHED

 

 

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Very accurately done, a good dose of patience, but it looks nice.

Cheers,

Dan

Current build : Mayflower - AL 1:64

Completed non-ship builds : Spitfire MK I - 1:48Arado 196B - 1:32, Sea Fury - 1:48F-15C Eagle - 1:48Hawker Tempest Mk.V - 1:48F104S Starfighter - 1:48

 

"The most effective way to do it, is to do it" - Amelia Earhart

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Lots of straps there, Craig. Tough to do them up on alert, before the canopy came down.

 

Did the RN/RAF use leg garters on the fronts of their MB seats? We had one above each ankle and another just above the knee. They lived in the cockpit. Held our legs tight to the seat for high speed ejections.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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