Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale - POF

[michael mott]

20 minutes ago, Bob Cleek said:

This permits shipping the cowl in the base directly over the air inlet hole in fair weather so that the air flow goes directly below,

One thing I noticed though is that these vents on Polly Agatha are screwed to the side of the cabin, which is why I have labored over making these flipping screws. they don't seem very easy to ship or put away in foul weather! maybe some sort of plug (old sails torn up....)

 

Michael

[Bob Cleek]

4 hours ago, michael mott said:

One thing I noticed though is that these vents on Polly Agatha are screwed to the side of the cabin, which is why I have labored over making these flipping screws. they don't seem very easy to ship or put away in foul weather! maybe some sort of plug (old sails torn up....)

 

Michael

Yes. My comment addressing capping the cowl bases on the Dorade boxes contemplated free-standing cowls screwed into bases. All the side mount cowls I've ever seen were permanently fastened, unlike the full cowls that screw into a threaded base. That's why I commented that I was perplexed as to what the inside of the side-mount box looked like. I figured that out, though. While some boxes have a wooden water baffle in the middle to isolate the water from the through-deck hole, another arrangement employs a standpipe or riser instead of a baffle to create the "water trap" effect. The upper end of the standpipe rises above the bottom end of a downpipe beneath the cowl base. It's a simpler arrangement, actually, and I believe a better one. That would have to be what is employed with the side vents in a box.  For a side-mounted cowl, as seen below, the box would have to extend outboard far enough to accommodate the full diameter of the riser, of course. 

 

 

The side cowls don't contemplate their removal for complete sealing in heavy weather. The problem of heavy water isn't so great where they are placed, well aft on the cabin sides. Even so, as with regular round-based cowls on Dorade boxes (if you want to get really fancy,) there are standard mushroom vent fittings that can close off the standpipe or riser from below. In the double-cowl arrangement you have shown in the prototype vessel, I'm relatively certain there would be found a standpipe in the box between the two half-cowls and it would have some sort of mushroom vent standpipe or riser to close it off from below.  The mechanism consists of a "spider" fixed inside the standpipe with a threaded center hole through which a threaded shaft can be turned. At the bottom of the threaded shaft is a handle with which to turn it and at the top it is threaded into a gasketed "mushroom cap" to close it off. The ability to easily close it off isn't simply to keep heavy seas out, but probably more frequently, it would be used to regulate the air flow as desired.

 

Davey and Co., London, (or wherever... they recently moved to the suburbs) still carries such classic mushroom vents in bronze, as does Toplicht in Hamburg, I expect. Davey offers them in varying heights, as shown. There are also other models with squared edge caps. Myself, I'd hate to hide a piece of "yacht jewelry" like these under a Dorade box, though!

 

 

 

I went googling for a picture of a squared cap mushroom vent and discovered that Cornwall Model Boats even makes miniature  square-capped mushroom vents in several scales for model boats !  https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/RB-Model-Fittings-Mushroom-Vent-14-x-23mm-RB09114.html#SID=1496

 

 

Edited January 9, 2019 by Bob Cleek

[BANYAN]

Very nice work Michael, and a mioni-tutorial on making those slotted round head screws to boot  She will be a work of art and just too nice to put into the water  

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Sailor1234567890]

Bob,

In order to assuage your fears of hiding such boat bling you can use lexan as the top of the box which would also allow a bit of extra light below. Not as traditional but very functional.

Sailor

[Bob Cleek]

12 hours ago, Sailor1234567890 said:

Bob,

In order to assuage your fears of hiding such boat bling you can use lexan as the top of the box which would also allow a bit of extra light below. Not as traditional but very functional.

Sailor

Yes, I've seen the Lexan tops. In practice, they really don't provide much light at all, though, unless the sun is directly above the standpipe. If getting light below is desired, a deck prism is a far better solution. They were widely used in times past, but are generally too small a detail to be seen on contemporary models. Modern designs make wide use of plastics and safety glass to let light in, particularly in hatch tops, so now the dark cabins that resulted for the need to keep glass portlights small for reasons of materials strength are pretty much a thing of the past. Traditional portlights on modern yachts are more a matter of design aesthetics than anything else.

 

"Modern" deck prism parts.

 

Nineteenth Century not-so-modern deck prism from below.

 

Nineteenth Century deck prism uninstalled. Mystic Seaport sells these replicas of those on the Charles W. Morgan for thirty bucks as souvenir paperweights.

 

Interesting trivia, perhaps, but let's not let it sidetrack us from Michael's fascinating build log. I'm waiting for his next magical trick making slotted head screws to unfold! I'm learning a whole lot here from him!

 

Edited January 11, 2019 by Bob Cleek

[wefalck]

Indeed, these deck prisms, though in common use since at least the middle of the 19th ccentury, are rarely seen on any models. One reason is probably that they are not marked on many plans of the time.

[michael mott]

Interesting conversation regarding the lights, thanks for that. Thanks for the views and likes. It has been a little quiet in the model shop as I have been nursing a persistent head cold. I have done a couple of small jigsaw puzzles at the kitchen table but that is about it till this evening.

 

I did not want to do anything too demanding so thought it was about time to start setting the glass into the cabin sides managed to rough in the port side light.

First I planed down a bit of mahogany to 1/8th with the little bench thickness jig and the block plane. The edges were then rounded to approx 1/16 radius. The rounded edges were then stripped off on the table saw. And while I was at it I stripped the edges off a section of wooden Venetian blind you can see those laying on top of the mahogany in the first picture. The glass is some clear plastic packaging material likely buterate because it was a vac formed piece that had a fairly large flat sheet area that is 1/32nd thick so representing some 1/4 inch glass

 

 

The fitted pieces still need a bit of shaping.

 

 

It is all snug enough that it stood up OK without falling out so I'm happy with that.

 

 

 

The next tasks are to do the starboard side and when they are done set up to drill the holes for the retaining flat head screws.

 

 

That's it for now.

 

Michael

[KeithAug]

Very smart.

[Jim Lad]

Flash as a rat with a gold tooth, Michael! 

 

John

[BANYAN]

If you can do that with a head cold, it is no wonder your other work is so good.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[SJSoane]

Nice!

 

Mark

[michael mott]

Thanks for the visits and kind remarks, they are greatly appreciated.

 

Today I did some final shaping of the cleats to hold in the glass by making the section tapered rather than square, this will allow me to drill into the cleat while in situ so that everything lines up. I also gave the top and the port side a coat of teak oil.

 

 

Before I can drill the holes I needed to finish drilling the holes in the starboard vents these were the first ones that I had made after the experiments. I did not get the flanges quite right so this morning I whipped up a couple more. Then was able to finish drilling the holes so that I can re-set the drill to drill the cleats for the glass.

 

 

 

Next I can make the cleats for the starboard glass.

 

Michael

[BANYAN]

This will be one-stunning model Michael.  I love the detail and quality of the work.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[druxey]

Just 'whipped up a couple more' vents? You make it sound as easy as sharpening a pencil, Michael!

[michael mott]

3 hours ago, druxey said:

Just 'whipped up a couple more' vents? You make it sound as easy as sharpening a pencil, Michael

I feel the same way when I watch someone play the piano. The thing is as you know its the practice that is the key, and each piece affords a little more knowledge of the puzzle on the best way to proceed.

 

Michael

[cog]

38 minutes ago, michael mott said:

I feel the same way when I watch someone play the piano. The thing is as you know its the practice that is the key, and each piece affords a little more knowledge of the puzzle on the best way to proceed.

 

Michael

That's how the modest masters always put it ...

[michael mott]

This morning i was able to get the retaining (screws) made for the port side window stops. They are made with the same pins as the round head wood screws, these ones are flat head and the heads are .037" diameter.

 

 

 

 

Michael

 

 

[KeithAug]

Hmmmmm!  Very impressive.

[G.L.]

Michael,

 

You really have an eye for detail. If I am right 0.037" must be a bit less than 1mm. Incredible!

[Bob Cleek]

Aha! Another "Rolls Royce" mechanic!

 

The fact that you lined up the slots on all those screws was not overlooked by my eagle eyes!

 

Lovely work. Beautiful.

[rwiederrich]

Michael...fantastic job....   What material did you use for the window seal....you did include the window seal...right?  You have included every other fine detail..rite down to the slotted screws and their perfect alignment.. not to mention just whipping out a couple more vents....

 

Your skill and execution of it is masterful........

 

Rob

[michael mott]

GL yes the fake screws are that small, I was later looking at the scale hardware site and was amazed by the small rivets, and I have been laboriously machining the heads of pins! I am going to pick up a selection of those tiny rivets to be able to make different screw simulations.

 

Bob, It did occur to me that by lining up the slots to port and starboard then the water would drain out instead of sit there, likewise with the vertical ones being up and down. Thanks for noticing.

 

2 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

What material did you use for the window seal....you did include the window seal...right? 

Busted!! Rob I didn't!!  I completely forgot... and I sail,  I know that water gets everywhere. I shall have to run a bead around the inside. The pins are that pins and were tapped in the last couple of millimeters removing them would be difficult to say the least. it is really one of the reasons in 1:1 I much prefer real screws because you can unwind them out.

Oh Well.

 

Michael

[rwiederrich]

2 hours ago, michael mott said:

GL yes the fake screws are that small, I was later looking at the scale hardware site and was amazed by the small rivets, and I have been laboriously machining the heads of pins! I am going to pick up a selection of those tiny rivets to be able to make different screw simulations.

 

Bob, It did occur to me that by lining up the slots to port and starboard then the water would drain out instead of sit there, likewise with the vertical ones being up and down. Thanks for noticing.

 

Busted!! Rob I didn't!!  I completely forgot... and I sail,  I know that water gets everywhere. I shall have to run a bead around the inside. The pins are that pins and were tapped in the last couple of millimeters removing them would be difficult to say the least. it is really one of the reasons in 1:1 I much prefer real screws because you can unwind them out.

Oh Well.

 

Michael

Best part of all is that nearly everything we do in *Modeling* is a simulation of the actual...therefore, not requiring seals, grease, tar, oil...etc...etc.

On the other hand, a 1:1 build might just push that envelope.

Love your work.....

 

Rob

[SJSoane]

On 1/28/2019 at 12:22 PM, michael mott said:

This morning i was able to get the retaining (screws) made for the port side window stops. They are made with the same pins as the round head wood screws, these ones are flat head and the heads are .037" diameter.

 

 

 

 

Michael

 

 

Incredible detail, Michael, even to the orientation of the screw slots. You continue to set the highest standard!

 

Mark

[michael mott]

Thanks for the kind comments Mark.

Last evening I was contemplating the way the cockpit looked and thinking about comfort etc. so did a bit of shifting things around raised up the top edge so that it is 11 inches above the deck and rough blocked in some seating which will have a couple of small tip out lockers under them. I want to keep the seats as a solid surface.

First i took the earlier floor grating and rotated it 90 degrees to give me the width and cut the angled sides off with the jewelers saw then cleaned it up on the shooting board.

 

 

 

 

Then roughed out a few scraps of Mahogany to sort out the shape of the seats, the final will be the same thickness obviously and a full 1inch thick (1/8th) The lower woodwork under the seats will also be mahogany and the lockers will open.

 

 

 

Hmm... I still need to finish the cover for the compass.

 

Michael

 

 

[wefalck]

Plus some deep-buttoned British racing-green leather cushions for fair-weather sailing ?

[michael mott]

41 minutes ago, wefalck said:

Plus some deep-buttoned British racing-green leather cushions for fair-weather sailing ?

Ah you mean like these only in green.

 

 

 

 

These are on a 7/8ths scale inspection loco the levers on the sides turn the loco on and off and forward and reverse it is about 8 inches long and runs on 45mm gauge track.

 

Michael

[wefalck]

Yep. So you know how to do them 👍

 

Shaped wooden seats can be quite comfortable, but I appreciated the cushions on the plastic yachts I have been sailing in - the fibre-glass can be quite tough on your bottoms after several hours ...

[paulsutcliffe]

"roughed out a few bits of mahogany" if only, lovely Michael

 

 

Edited January 31, 2019 by paulsutcliffe

[Jim Lad]

That's looking a very comfortable little cockpit, Michael.

 

John