HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype

[Chuck]

I managed to finish the skeleton for Cheerful today.  So its now ready for planking.  The stern framing was pretty standard although the design concept was modified for the square tuck.  This is a feature that is rarely shown correctly on these cutters.  There are some pretty complex angles.  Its hard to tell in the images but the square tuck is not flat and completely perpendicular to the keel.  It has a slight convex curve as it works its way from the center outward.   

 

It isnt complete yet.  The actual framed square tuck will be added after the sides of the hull are planked.  Its probably the trickiest part on the model but I simplified it quite bit as far as the construction is concerned.  But when its done it should look exactly like the real thing.  Thats my hope anyway.  The first image shows the Rogers collection model with its square tuck.   The frame around the vertical planking will be added after the hull is completely planked.  Then I will fill it in with the vertical planks.

 

Chuck

 

 

 

 

 

[Bill Hime]

Chuck,

If you don't mind, a question about your laser cutter. Not the typical tool in most home shops. How does it perform compared to the laser cutter the modeling companies would be using for kit production? The one thing I've noticed quickly is that the light deflects as it passes through the wood making a beveled cut rather than a true 90 degree. How does the cut you are achieving with the home unit compare to the commercial kits? 

 

Sincere Regards,

 

Bill

[druxey]

Nice to see that you are attempting an authentic square stern with both side and transom plank ends protected.

[Chuck]

Thats the plan Druxey.  We shall see how it goes.  I think it will work out OK.  

 

Bill,

 

All laser cutters cut on an angle.  You can minimize it a lot but never get rid of it entirely.  Basically the laser is cone shaped as it travels through the lense that focus' it.  Much like how you would focus the sun through a magnifying glass.   So it gradually comes to a point.  If you focus that beam so the point ends in the center of the thickness of wood you can minimize the angle of cut but its hard to do.

 

So its just a matter of focusing well and the,

 

choosing the proper laser power for that thickness along with the most appropriate speed.  If you pick the slowest setting possible along with the least power possible to just cut through the wood,  then the Kerf will be as thin as possible......thus reducing the angle.

 

The angle is always more noticeable on thicker pieces which are few on a model.  So I enlarge them by 1% or 2% to compensate.  Once the laser char is removed with a sanding stick while you at the same time make a true 90 degree angle the part will be the appropriate size.  Its just a fact of life for laser cutters and all kit cut pieces.  But you can minimize it quite a bit with practice,  trial and error.

 

Chuck

[Chuck]

I started the planking today.  This always begins with placing battens on the hull.  The top of the batten represents the bottom edge of the wales.  I really spent a lot of time on these because it will establish the run of all of the planks on the hull.

 

 

It was added to both sides so I can check it from every conceivable angle.  Once I was satisfied I planked the wales with two strips.  This will be the first layer.  After I plank the hull from here up to the sheer,  I will come back and add the final layer.  Its a hold over from my time building kits.  I like the idea of being able to make small adjustments with the run of the wales on the final layer.  Since it will be painted black and this isnt the final layer it laid down in one long strip rather than in 25 foot long pieces.

 

Now on most ships you can just start planking from the wales up...the run of the wales determines the run of the planking above it to the sheer.  Mostly anyway.

 

In this case however it isnt true.  It is again one of the reasons I chose the Cheerful.  Its not difficult work at all but requires careful planning.  If you examine the plan for the cheerful you will see the run of two moldings just under and through the gunports.   I was fortunate to have the original draft for teh planking expansion and my model will follow it exactly.  The same number of strakes and their run are precisely copied from it.  The space between this molding and the wales is not consistent.   So I decided to add the 1/16" strip first which for the most part runs right under the ports, leaving a 1/64" rabbet along the bottom of each port.

 

 

Then I divided up that space between the molding strip and the wales equally so I can taper these two strakes that will fit between them.  You may be able to see my tick marks defining the space and strakes on each bulkhead.

 

 

The molding strip is just the first layer also....Once its all done I will come back and add the final layer after scraping the fancy profile into it.    Once again, having a little wiggle room to adjust teh run of the molding later is a huge plus.

 

Then its just a matter of finishing the planking and other molding strip as I work my way up to the sheer.

 

Chuck

[Mirabell61]

Chuck,

 

beautiful lines and lovely framework

 

Nils

[Maury S]

Chuck, Double planking?  Wales only?

Maury

[Chuck]

Only the wales.....its a single plank on bulkhead,   But rather than use a thicker plank for the wales and molding,  those are done in two layers.

[Rustyj]

Hi Chuck,

 

She's looking really nice. I like how the molding will define the run under the gun ports. That makes for

a real nice flow. You will be planking below the wales the same way you did the Winnie won't you?

 

I'm looking forward to taking a crack at her once you've finished!  

 

 

[Chuck]

Thanks guys

 

Rusty it will be basically the same.  Except in this case the original planking expansion did show one drop plank at the bow.  I am basically replicating that draft exactly.  So I will include that drop plank and then divide the bottom of the hull into belts.   But only two this time.   Then I will line off the hull before moving forward with the planking.

 

Heres what the hull looks like after those two planks were added between the molding and the wales.  I only darkened the seams where it will eventually be noticed.  This helps if I need to tweak the placement of the second layer for the wales and molding.   Without the seams darker its easier to move the second layer without folks noticing.

 

You will notice the darker wales.  This was just a sheet of boxwood I had that was noticeable darker.  I figured what the heck,  I might as well use it for the wales.  Its going to be painted anyway.  It also helps me visualize the run of the wales as I plank above them.

 

[GLakie]

Been quietly watching with interest Chuck. Very nice! My only question is how do you find the time? Seems like you have a lot on your plate.

 

Cheers

[Chuck]

Thanks...Yes indeed I do

 

But it all gets done eventually.   I really like coffee.

 

Chuck

[aliluke]

This is looking really good Chuck and your explanations are great. I love the lines of this ship. I see you did a wee check in the the forward most plank at the forward most gun port. I can't imagine, given your work, that this was a mistake...Actually I just looked back at the profile drawing and there it is - checked! And the moulding strip stops and starts again at that port. That is precision!

[GLakie]

I know what you mean about coffee. (Another addict here) Must have been my truck-driving years that did it.

 

Cheers

[Chuck]

The planking above the wales is basically completed.  Just a few more planks to add on the port side as you can see.  I didnt bother simulating the caulking between the seams where it wont show.  So it looks a bit weird now.  But once the molding and second layer of the wales is added it will look fine.

 

You can only see a few places with a crisp line for the seams.  This was done by running a number two pencil down one plank edge.  If I did this on both plank edges it would have been too pronounced for my tastes.

 

I will plank the transom and counter next at the stern.  Its an interesting detail that in case of a cutter like this you dont plank the stern counter first.   The transom and counter are planked after the sides of the hull.   The exposed end-grain of the counter planking and transom planking will be protected from the elements and rot by the fashion pieces.   You can see them in the profile drawing.  So you will not see any of the end grain from the planking.  The frame for the square tuck also does this for the end grain of the planks.  Its an interesting feature and I almost forgot NOT to plank the counter first.  It is something I am so accustomed to doing.

 

Before I plank the stern transom and counter I have some shaping of the outer stern frames to do.  I will post pictures of this as well because its an important feature to keeping the finished model looking accurate.  So far its coming together quite well without any real issues.  Its a fun build so far.  You can start to see the final shape of the cutter come to life as the planking progresses.  I know the bulwarks look thick at this point but they will actually be thinned down quite a bit soon.  The outboard and inboard planking at the sheer was actually just 1 1/2" thick....once its planked inboard and out the final width will be just 1/8 - 5/32" thick at the most.   Closer to 1/8" thick I hope.

 

 

 

[aliluke]

Looking sweet. Q: Why do you blacken the topside of the bulkheads at the deck and their extensions up the bulwarks?

[Chuck]

Thats the laser char....I didnt bother sanding it....it will all be removed when I take down the bulwarks later.   The ply burns a bit and teh char is more evident.

 

Chuck

[GLakie]

This looks like a really fun build Chuck. Well, here's another toy to add to the wish list when it becomes available. Already spent a small fortune on new tools and I think the Admiral's going to kick my ___ pretty soon if I don't bribe her with more trinkets and beads.

 

Not to change the subject, but I couldn't help but notice the sign in your shop. I've been a proponent of the ancient astronaut theory myself for many years now. 

 

Cheers 

[Chuck]

Funny....Yes,  I introduced my son to binge watching the X Files from start to finish on Netflix.  He bought me that poster as a thank you.   It was a blast watching it with him.   Big Sci-fi buff.

 

Chuck

[Jim Lad]

You've done a lot while I've been away, Chuck - looking good!

 

John

[Trussben]

She's looking really nice Chuck, great work as always.

 

Ben

[Chuck]

Got the counter and the transom planked.  You may notice that I thinned down the outside stern frames considerably before planking the stern.  The first photo shows how thick they were before it was planked.  After the sides of the hull were planked the outside stern frames were strong enough to handle the thinning down.  It makes the model more historically correct.  The inboard side of the stern and counter will not be planked so I wanted to make sure it looked as authentic as possible.  That of course means that I must really clean up the inboard side between the stern frames carefully to prepare it for painting.   I will fill any cracks and sand it smooth and do lots of surface prep.

 

Now I can have some fun.  Its time to put the fashion pieces on and the wales and fancy trim.  This is the step that will make it really come together.

 

Chuck

 

 

 

 

 

[Chuck]

Almost forgot.....looking for some second opinions.   I am thinking about painting the lower counter and leaving the transom natural.  Like the Surly contemporary model.  What do you think?   Maybe blue....but not this bright.   Is it too much?  Maybe leave it all natural back there?

 

You will also note how the Surly had the bulwarks cut down which is why the transom is a funky shape.  This was done during a refit long after the Cheerful was already gone.  Cheerful didnt last too long.   Maybe I will switch and call her the Surly....I am not feeling too cheerful today..

 

Chuck

 

 

[GLakie]

Lookin' fine Chuck:

 

Well, from an old woodworker's perspective, the natural wood finish, in my opinion, looks nice and shows off your craftsmanship. But if you're going for historically accurate, then paint her like that. 

  (Now I'm thinking of getting two, the admiral really IS going to kill me)

 

Cheers 

[JeffT]

I like the blue.

[Mahuna]

I vote for natural.

 

Frank

[augie]

Nice job on the inboard side of the transom.  

 

It's a tough call.  Blue might be nice.  But I'd go natural.

[rtropp]

I like natural but I would want the prototype painted for accuracy. 

The reason is that I am just toying with the idea of using different woods to reflect color (or at least shades) and having the prototype painted would let me know the degree of dark and light wood to use.

 

Richard.

[Chuck]

I am actually leaning towards the Surly paint scheme.   Black caprail and black sheer strip,  with red bulwarks and red counter.  But that can change,  This is always a struggle for me to decide.

 

Chuck

[druxey]

I'll be contrary: Black and red!