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druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Super work as always! Mortising rails for the timberheads accurately is painstaking work, but so much stronger than simply pegging the the timberheads to the rail. -
Just make sure that you have adequate ventilation if using a heater. There are too many cases in winter of death from CO poisoning due to faulty heaters or lack of air.
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It's a matter of taste. Somehow, to me, machine carvings lack a certain quality that the hand-carved pieces have. They are, perhaps, a little too perfect. Also, the surface finish of a machine tool gives a different surface finish to that of the burnishing produced by an edge tool.
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- le gros ventre
- cargo
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How difficult would it be for you to drill the hole now? You don't say what scale you are working at and how advanced your rigging is. If it's possible, I'd use a drill bit in a pin vise and drill by hand rather than with a power drill. Also, hold a piece of scrap wood inside the bulwark to prevent any chipping out as the bit exits.
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Again, just catching up to you. I'm relieved to read that you and your family have come through Covid OK. Not a nice experience, I'm sure. Lovely work and progress, JD. Might I suggest that for lining out planking that thread is more precise than tape? Just a little white glue does it. If you need to shift the line a bit, simply moisten a finger and roll the thread. up or down as needed.
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Although you know far more than most, Ab!
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Learning about both those tools when taking jewelry lessons revolutionized my miniature metal-working. They are now , along with my miniature needle-nosed pliers, indispensable!
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Personal preference is the guide here. I agree with Bob that paper in joints weakens them, unless one pegs or treenails the joints as well. Try different techniques on scrap and see what you prefer.
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Just caught up with you on your build, Dan. Another neat model done. The burgee is a particularly nice detail. The lively sea is a tough thing to model, but the prop wsh is very convincing. Congratulations!
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- James B Colgate
- whaleback
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Lovely presentation of an unusual subject! It's always good to see less well-known subjects modelled. Well done, Dart.
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At the bow it looks as if the third bulkhead needs more fairing; the garboard looks too high at that point. Are you using flexible sanding sticks to fair? If not, do try them.
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- muscongus bay lobster smack
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Nice marking gauge, Mark! And excellent work on the 'iron' hardware!
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Bob: So many folk buy an elaborate first kit and quickly run onto the rocks. You are smart in beginning small and working up. Even a 'simple' model isn't that simple, as you've found out!
- 38 replies
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- First Build
- Model Shipways
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Through bolts had a slot on the outer end that a forelock - a wedge-shaped piece of iron sheet - was pushed through and bent into an 'S 'to retain it. There was a washer under the forelock to prevent wood from being crushed. As many items as possible on a ship had to be easily replaced in the event. All it needed was a hammer.
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Nice result for a first wooden boat build, Bob. Every build is a learning process. You'll find the next model will benefit from your experience building this one. Well done!
- 38 replies
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That sounds like what we call 'sanding sealer', Amalio. Beautifully marked out mast wedges and and so accurately cut by hand!
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Not every ship model shows every detail! Another instance is that scuppers are seldom shown either. They would, of course be present in the actual ship. Remember that many models are stylized to a greater or lesser extent.
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All I can do is shake my head and keep reminding myself that this model is not at 1:48 or 1:64! Amazing.
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Channel bends is an alternate name for the channel wale planks.
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Rising wood questions
druxey replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Once you read Longridge, it will all become clear. To explain everything that you need to know would take a book - and it's already been written! But, briefly the analogous timber to the deadwood amidships is the rising wood. It is usually only a few inches high at the dead flat and about 3" wider than the keel. It seems to be omitted from your cross sectional illustration above. However, it was standard in those days. -
Very neatly done, Siggi! Another way is to glue the blank to a piece of wood using white glue. The advantage is that you can turn the piece in any direction while carving and also keeping your fingers safe. Also, if you slip, it won't harm your model. Soak the piece in rubbing alcohol to free it when you are finished.
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I think you'll find that after some time, differences in wood color tend to deepen and even out.
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Nice work on those tricky rails and hances!
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No buttocks
druxey replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Buttock lines are seldom seen on contemporary draughts. If you have the knowledge, by using waterlines and station sections you can construct these yourself.
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