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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    The gods smiled on you, Gary? I'll say!! You were very fortunate. The base looks terrific and compliments the fabulous model perfectly. A great finish. Now, what's next? We are waiting....
  2. druxey
    Easy questions, Gary! The placement of the hanging knee to the beam was on the fore side forward and aft side aft. See: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/384163.html although this is an earlier 1709 example. As for cast knees, they were shaped from compass timber, so curved, twisted pieces would have been selected for best grain direction and strength, plus minimum wastage. (Think of the bottom of the trunk and main root area.)
  3. druxey
    The rudder coat, as it was called, was nailed around the rudderhead a little below the opening in the counter. Imagine an open umbrella, but the rudderhead in the center instead of the ferrule. The loose outer ends of the canvas were then turned up and nailed around the edges of the opening (the helm port) giving a loose bag-like appearance to it.
  4. druxey
    Or, if that's not practical, clamp the mast in a vise and pull a strip of sandpaper to and fro across the spar. Rotate it in the vise frequently to ensure that wood is being removed evenly all the way around. Do a section at a time.
  5. druxey
    You really should make your 17 year old self take a bow! That top was pretty sophisticated work for a teenager.
  6. druxey
    You may find it easier to lay each strake in two planks so that they fit at stem and stern. Shape the plank ends first, then trim the butt joint to land over the center of a frame.
  7. druxey
    A little too long is always better than a little too short! Nice progress, bolin.
  8. druxey
    Enjoy your new space, Tim! As for ceramics, the mess would be difficult to reconcile with model-making in the same space.
  9. druxey
    Love those now-hidden dome lights!
  10. druxey
    Surely you all know the maxim; "Measure twice, cut once, blame the tape measure."
  11. druxey
    Pearwood certainly bends nicely.
  12. druxey
    All supporting rigging is strongest in 'tripod' configuration, so I supposed fore stays and shrouds would probably do it. However, I suspect running backstays added would make for 'belt and braces' - literally! - in severe weather conditions.
  13. druxey
    Very atmospheric and convincing!
  14. druxey
    Or that the found object - in fact, a pulley or sheave - has been 'decorated' with line. The condition of the line (and in particular, the worming) does not look as old as the sheave!
  15. druxey
    Ah - a true ship modeler! Can't let it go until it's right. And, of course, it looks so much better now.
  16. druxey
    Buxbaum = boxwood. South American 'boxwood' or Castello is a pale orange-yellow to yellow-brown with extremely fine grain. Some pieces can be brittle, but most can be bent with care using steam or dry heat. This specie is excellent for carving. Beech (IMHO) is a lovely specie - for cabinetwork. The grain in most pieces is too prominent for model work.
  17. druxey
    Always finding neat reading matter! Thank you, Bruce, for sharing this.
  18. druxey
    Actually, for the Swans, the frames at the top of the side are 4½" molded once faired - even thinner! However, with temporary fillers between the toptimbers the structure should be quite rigid.
  19. druxey
    Do you have decimal reading calipers? That would be the most direct way.
  20. druxey
    Terrific setting, Hellmuht! A beautiful piece of work all round. Well done.
  21. druxey
    Excellent! Thank you for bringing this to our attention, Bruce.
  22. druxey
    For an ambitious 'first' project, this looks pretty good, Nicholas. Bien fait, monsieur!
  23. druxey
    Not an expert, Allan? By the time you have finished rigging this model, you will be!
  24. druxey
    Another impressive model, Javier. Well done!
  25. druxey
    Helps keep lil' critters and dust out!

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