Jump to content

mtaylor

Moderators
  • Posts

    25,988
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Hmm... I think you'd need to leave quite a few spalls on to constantly make sure nothing has shifted. Might I suggest that you put them on top the frame? A lot of the builders do it that way so they can get the spalls off.
  2. Ken, I just want to say thanks for your posting on how you did your rudder. It answered a few questions (ok... many) in my mind about how to go about this.
  3. John, This one: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1465-18th-century-longboat-by-bobf-ms-148-tri-club/
  4. Ah... this is where you went. And it looks like there's still some chairs open....
  5. David, That bit of gun rigging is the inhaul for the guns. If, for some reason, the gun didn't recoil enough to reloaded, it was used to pull the gun back. It would have only been in place when "action" was expected and even then not always. It was sometimes unhooked and kept out of the way so as not to be tripped over but kept close at hand if needed. I'm playing "catchup".... Your build is looking great.
  6. Mike, PM Glenn. He's the one building that paddlewheeler. He can probably tell you if they do tours, etc.
  7. I'm loving it, Sjors. You are obviously taking very good care of the rigging spiders.
  8. Daniel, I do believe you are correct. In France, the India Company ships were also warships so plans were sent to the appropriate place. They also planned on only one voyage per ship. Some shortcuts were taken, but since the King was involved, much of those ships were built like warships. England was a different beast as I understand. When the Navy bought a ship, they took of the lines and some of the details. The did do some upgrades as time and money permitted, like the stove, gunports, but I'm not sure wales were on the list. It was a quick and cheap way to get a ship for a purpose, usually, short-termed. As I recall, there were ships bought solely for use as fireships, victualers, powder and transports and very little was done. Others, got a massive overhaul. Do we know how much was re-worked when the government bought her? The shipyards were very good at detailing these things but not always on the drawings.
  9. I believe that kit is the same or a slightly modified version of the AL kit. As to how good it is, I can't answer but I remember seeing some logs here on MSW.
  10. Mike, Off topic but if you're interested, go here; http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11538-western-river-steamboat-heroine-by-ggrieco-scale-124-1838-as-she-appeared-before-hitting-a-snag-in-the-red-river/ This being built at A&M and Dr. Crisman has been leading the research on her.
  11. Sweet work on the details.. the battens and the grates. Let's hope this is your last move, Danny. Being a nomad is rough on building ships.
  12. Where does one find those extra-extra large quarters? That is some seriously beautiful work and those pieces are tiny.
  13. Ok.. I see that you set up the thumper and the worm came to you. That is a great looking bucket.
  14. A great save on that deck, Denis. We've all pulled dumb things like that. And rails... a wow! on the painting even if I did like them as bare brass.
  15. Moxis, Maybe something like this? http://www.proxxontoolsdiscount.com/store/p23/37088_Scroll_Saw_DS_115%2FE.html I've seen some videos and the blade goes vertical as the arm doesn't move.
  16. Thinking outside the box? I don't think there was a box to begin with. Looks like a great idea carried through to working, Michael. If I'm seeing and reading this right, then the whole u-shaped blade holder doesn't pivot but goes up and down and the is always dead on vertical?
  17. Hard to tell, Daniel. They're not cleats or fairleads are they? The painting inset appears to have rope around it to my eye.
  18. The same way, Dave. Only you will line it off on the first layer of planking. Just space the tic marks at where you think the bulkheads are and if they're straight from the sheer to the keel you'll be in fine shape.
  19. There's a couple problems with the kit supplied nails in my opinion. 1) Even cut flush, sanding of the planking becomes an issue as the nails will tend to rip the sandpaper. Also, they're harder than the wood so the wood gets sanded, the nails don't and you're left with little lumps. 2) Most kit nails are steel and in wood they will start rusting. You'll end up with discolored wood at a minimum over time. The nails are basically used to clamp the plank to the bulkheads or frames until the glue dries and then removed. (Hint: Leave them a bit proud.) On second layer of planking, they shouldn't be put through the plank as this leaves holes in the plank. Put them next to the plank and at a bit of angle to hold the plank down. Others will have their opinion which is one of the great things about this hobby. There's so many ways of getting to the small point. On kits, if you'll look at the build logs, many builders glue in basswood or balsa wood fillers between the bulkheads and at the bow and stern to help with the planking run and to give a smooth surface. Do sand things fair before planking. The glue coating will stiffen things up quite a bit.
  20. The grates just sat there... Ladders... what Henry said. If you consider that they were up close and personal in an artillery duel.. you're right about brutal. But casualties, percentage wise were relatively minor compared to land battles. When you get into the American Civil War, it was even worse.
  21. Ken, One can't have too many tutorials or detailed procedures with a screw up or two... The tutorials teach and we builders learn from our screwups which all tell others not to do it that way. Seeing Kurt's shameless plug ( ) reminds me.. I really need to order your book. My metal skills stink.
×
×
  • Create New...