mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Thanks for looking in, everyone. Port side, first three strakes. Not too bad to my eye and I'm happy. The pics, though tell me that I'll have to do some sanding and shaping still around the joints and also to fair and smooth things out a bit. The big challenge here is the where the plank thickness changed and also where the hull shape changed due to the tumblehome. I'll fix things with some sanding and then finally scraping to get the ebony dust out of the Swiss pear grain. Onto the starboard side....
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Sweet work on the bitts and pumps. And the rope coils are a nice touch. Super nifty, my friend.
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- confederacy
- Model Shipways
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Congratulations on the milestone. The planking looks extremely good.
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I'm with Pat on this... very interesting concept. The only question in mind would be is that there should be a better way of securing the "windlass". These vessels were designed for ramming and I'd think that the hit would bow the keel slightly, maybe more then enough to shake that brace loose. I wouldn't want to be anywhere near that thing when the winding torque on the cable was suddenly released.
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I checked... all of us building French ships are way behind you. Though I think Gaetan has a 1:24th 74 finished but not masted.
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- essex
- model shipways
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Well that's good that it's only a bar upstairs and not a bowling alley. Great looking LED's. With the stuff they're coming out with now, I'll have do some serious thinking on my next build. When I did my Constellation, the smallest LED's were 5mm.
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Gramophone needles? I think I've seen it all now. Very ingenious I must admit.
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That is one impressive lifeboat, even without the paint.
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Instead of a model, having fun on a full scale house, are we? Been there.. I know the turmoil of doing it. I'm glad you're not giving but doing what you need to do to make things good. When you can.. keep us posted.
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Jaw dropping work, Remco.
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Row, Definitely check the runout. What was suggested to me was to put a coin at the "bottom" of the jaws and tighten the jaws. The coin should be small enough to allow the jaw "teeth" to be inside the circular opening. Then using the inside cutter, set the lathe spinning and just let the cutter kiss the jaw teeth. Move the cutter a very very small amount and cut a tiny bit off. The runout should be gone. You have to do the "kiss" with the cutter, slowly and carefully because if you try to move it too much at a time, you'll destroy the cutter and possible receive and injury from flying shrapnel.
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Henry, Here's two links: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5781-thimble-help-needed/?hl=thimbles#entry166944 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/539-tiny-thimbles/?hl=thimbles You might also check out this post: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4679-the-kit-bashers-guide-to-the-galaxy/?p=281279 And also I've seen at least one in the Scratch Build area... Danny's Vulture Log.
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Looking good, Mike. Tomorrow probably won't be a good day to sit outside if what I'm seeing on the weather for the east coast is correct.... It's hard to sand while wearing mittens. Don't ask how I know.
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I almost missed this one.. Sweet work on the bezels. You're off to a great start, Grant.
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- dumas
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Hi Brian, Welcome to MSW. That lantern looks great. If you hadn't said anyting, we wouldn't have known about it being "too tall". If you'll go to the database: here's a shortcut: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-modeling-articles-and-downloads.php There's a couple of articles on making flickering lights. If the light is too bright then consider putting a resistor in series to drop the voltage a bit. The LED will run cooler and last longer.
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Nice work, Mobbsie. The nice thing about stepping outside the comfort zone is that if we do enough, it becomes part of the comfort zone. Well done!!!
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- granado
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Hi Jon, Welcome to MSW. I think I'll pull up a chair and watch if you don't mind.
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Thanks for the feedback and the "likes". JPett, spiling is an option but at this point, I just use a file sometimes in place, other times, remove the plank, shape and re-fit. After I get these first two wales done, I'll mark off the hull and then have to do tapering, spiling, etc. As Michael says, we all do the dance... Between translating the Belle-Poule monograph and planking, I'm keeping fairly busy and somedays, its seems like I don't get much done. Interesting material in the Belle-Poule monograph. The rigging plan is radically different then Le Venus that Hahn used. I see I'll need some feed-through sheaves amongst other things.
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<picks self up off floor><brushes off sawdust><low whistle> Wow... that is tiny and lovely at the same time.
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- artesania latina
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Those chocks look perfect, Mark. They should jump right out with the finish. Keep up the nice work.
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- druid
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Pen Duick 1898 by Mfelinger - 1:20
mtaylor replied to Mfelinger's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Thank you for showing how you did that beautiful work on the planking. -
Your rigging is just as beautiful as the works in wood, Karl.
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- bonhomme richard
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Thanks Tim for the comment and to everyone for the "likes". I do start with a longer plank and then bend it to shape. The ends that don't get bent get removed and the planked is checked for length, Carl. I think if they don't line up, one of two things will happen... I'll either shape the other side to match, or rip it off and have another go. I think you're right Denis. I'm beyond V1. Well into the Twilight Zone. Thanks Patrick. They're being ironed out as I go. I do find that I tend to post the "not good" stuff as well as the "good" stuff. I think it's part of the learning curve and finding pitfalls. The really nice thing... perhaps the biggest thing about MSW is that we all learn from each other. Back to planking...
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Peaksol, I don't have a Proxxen but a Micromark which is similar. Here's my method: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9312-need-advice-with-byrnes-saw/?p=274646 It's repeatable and consistent. Just make sure that the blade doesn't get hot since it will distort.
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