ancre La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette

[archjofo]

Hi Dan,

thank you for your explanations.
They are very interesting. Maybe I'll try it.

Edited January 17, 2019 by archjofo

[aviaamator]

Johann! Cable without filling the gaps looks wavy, with variable diameter. I believe that this is not true. The gaps need to be filled with thread, and then put the crate. It's easy! I do this.

[archjofo]

@aviaamator

Thank you for your interesting presentation.

 

Meanwhile I tried to fill the gaps of the rope.
On my photo above is the wormed rope to see.
To the left is the served rope. Looks a little less wavy, that's true.

Below, I show the served rope without worming.

[aviaamator]

The difference is noticeable, isn't it?!⚖️

[archjofo]

Hello,
thin leather about 0.15 - 0.2 mm is not available. So you have to make thin leather even thinner. For this I have built a primitive device, as can be seen in the following picture.

For example, the bobstays are served with leather. The thin leather, about 0.2 mm thick, can easily be glued around a rope after splitting, as shown in the next picture.

The jaw of the gaff was lined on the inside with leather.

 

[michael mott]

Johann,

The leather thinning tool is very nice I shall have to try that.

 

Michael

[paulsutcliffe]

Johann you never cease to amaze, superb work

Regards

Paul 

[deadbrotherbear]

Johann, you are my hero!

 

[aviaamator]

I also like this device will do, and the boom will also sheathe the skin! Good work, Johann!

[archjofo]

Hello Michael, Paul,
@deadbrotherbear,
and @aviaamator,
thank you for your interest and the nice comment. Also thanks to all for the LIKES.

Here is a little update:
I had completely forgotten the coppering of the mizzen mast in the upper area as protection for the jaw of the gaff. I remembered how I made the leather for the gaff.

 

Another detail for the mizzen mast is a fitting for the topping lifts of the davits.

Edited January 28, 2019 by archjofo

[archjofo]

Today I finally succeeded in uploading the pictures in my previous report.

Edited January 28, 2019 by archjofo

[archjofo]

Today I show you my second attempt for the shrouds. This time I used Gütermann silk yarn (left side). The lanyard are also made of silk yarn, but by Mettler.
I will do more experiments.

[wefalck]

Well, I would go for the left version, with the lanyard a tad darker.

[Dowmer]

1 hour ago, wefalck said:

Well, I would go for the left version, with the lanyard a tad darker.

 

I agree 👍, but it looks very nice Johann. Great work. 

[michael mott]

I also prefer the left side example.

 

Michael

[rwiederrich]

Reviewing your log...I'm amazed...STILL.  So much iron work and such.

I prefer the dark lanyards myself.

 

Rob

[aviaamator]

Of course, the left option! Rope lanyard should be half the vant-rope.

[Bob Legge]

A hint on serving:

 

"Worm and parcel with the lay,

Turn and serve the other way."

 

From Longridge page 209 - SERVING AND WORMING.

 

Bob.

[archjofo]

Hello,
thank you for the active cooperation and the suggestion.
I also think a darker lynard fits in more harmoniously.

Edited February 2, 2019 by archjofo

[cog]

darker is dull, lighter more contrasting. It depends on how you want to show her - the ship in total - and how much you want to have singular parts stand out. When I look at the metal work against the wood, the ropes from your hammock nettings ...  you need to look at the bigger picture and look at it from a distance, not from close up.

 

Very impressive though

[rwiederrich]

7 hours ago, cog said:

darker is dull, lighter more contrasting.

It's not about dull contrast...its about accuracy.  Light lanyards are not accurate....ever.

Then again if you are show-boating.

 

Rob

[wefalck]

Don't know what Johann's plans are in this respect, but I usually go over the all the standing rigging in situ with washes of paint - as would have been done with tar on the prototype.

[cog]

hms victory example and another 

 

30 minutes ago, rwiederrich said:

It's not about dull contrast...its about accuracy.  Light lanyards are not accurate....ever.

Then again if you are show-boating.

 

Rob

There you are wrong Rob, for then the model should be painted accurately as well. It's up to the builder in my opinion, which has nothing to do with "show-boating" as you call it

[wefalck]

I gather there are two 'extreme' ways of presenting a model, in an 'artisanal' style, to demonstate one's artisanal skills and with aesthetics in mind, or in a 'realistic' style, that shows, how a ship may have looked at her time. The latter style is common among plastic modellers, while those, who build wooden ship models seem to go for something in between the two extremes, but leaning often towards the more 'artisanal' one. In the latter case you can have any artistic, or rather artisanal license you want, but we also seem to have certain conventions ...

[cog]

thank you wefalk, well phrased

[rwiederrich]

8 minutes ago, cog said:

hms victory example and another 

 

There you are wrong Rob, for then the model should be painted accurately as well. It's up to the builder in my opinion, which has nothing to do with "show-boating" as you call it

Then I suppose I'll remain wrong.  From the details the builder is employing in the iron work and skillful application of every detail of his build...applying the appropriate tar mixture of preservation to the lanyards would not be considered inaccurate as Wefalk has concured.

 

White lanyards are not accurate...no mater how contrasting they are to make a build look balanced.  I used the phrase *show-boating* to delineate between what one thinks looks good to what was actually a practice...regardless of appearances.

 

I meant no disrespect to anyone for stating the facts as I know them.

I wonder where the marine historians and architects went wrong when rebuilding the constitution? 

 

Respectfully Rob

[rwiederrich]

23 minutes ago, wefalck said:

I gather there are two 'extreme' ways of presenting a model, in an 'artisanal' style, to demonstate one's artisanal skills and with aesthetics in mind, or in a 'realistic' style, that shows, how a ship may have looked at her time. The latter style is common among plastic modellers, while those, who build wooden ship models seem to go for something in between the two extremes, but leaning often towards the more 'artisanal' one. In the latter case you can have any artistic, or rather artisanal license you want, but we also seem to have certain conventions ...

Well phrased shipmate.

I concluded what I did and boldly spoke to the extreme accuracy of detail Johann has employed in this particular model.  He has spared no detail...and it wasn't a stretch to imply he should continue that stretch and include the detail of properly treating the lanyards.  Why go *Artisanal* at this junction, when in fact his entire build is a magnificent representation of his artistic skill.

 

 

If, as an artist, you want to paint red lips on a pig.... be artistic, but if you want to aesthetically and accurately represent a pig, then you forgo the lipstick.

Nuff said.

 

Clear sailing.

 

Rob

[archjofo]

Hello,
thank you for your interesting discussion on the design of models.
it is perfectly legitimate to express different views.

In the meantime, I have worked a bit further and made the standing parts for the lower main tackles.

 

[michael mott]

Johann would it be possible to include a picture of the other side of the spool traveler. I am interested in how it is supported on the steel rod.

Beautiful work on the worming and serving.

Michael 

[druxey]

Hah! I had long discussions with a very knowledgeable gentleman some years ago. I had argued that laniards were running rigging as they were adjustable, but he persuaded me (eventually!) that they were tarred to protect them against seawater. So - dark laniards are more 'correct'.