Greenwich Hospital barge of 1832 by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Druxey,

 

found your build log this morning. I'll follow your work with great interest and I am sure that I can learn a lot from your log. Thanks for sharing

Edited January 28, 2016 by AnobiumPunctatum

[druxey]

Now things start to get interesting. The plug was repeatedly gessoed and rubbed down to a smooth surface. The next step is to line out the planking. There are two stages to this process. The first is mechanical: dividing the surface into equal parts at various points along the hull. In this case the draught showed eight strakes. The distance around half the hull at the dead flat was exactly 4' 0", so each stroke is 6" wide at that point. 

 

Once the hull has been divided into 8 bands or strakes, these need to be finessed so that, no matter from which direction you look at it, the planking runs smoothly to the eye. The bow-most third of the hull gave the most difficulty, as there is a pronounced hollow to the form. In some cases the variation of the thickness of the pencil line (very thin) was enough to make the difference. In others the line had to be moved by as much as 1/32". I may still play with the layout a little more before I'm completely satisfied.

 

The layout at present makes no allowance for overlaps of the clinker planks - that will come later, as will the shift of plank butts.

[UpstateNY]

Hi Druxey,

 

Really enjoying watching your build, but a question if you don't mind...what is the advantage of gesso over other other choices to help smooth the hull?

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel.

[trippwj]

Wonderful subject, and a wonderfully informative log - mind if I lurk here and admire your work?

[dgbot]

I am wondering the same as Nigel.  I have always seen wax being used on th plug I have never seen gesso.  What is the advantage or is personal preference?

David B

[druxey]

Gesso dries fairly quickly, fills grain and sands well, Nigel. It also takes pencil easily. Certainly it does not prevent adhesion without some form of varnish or wax over the plug, but that's later in the process.

[UpstateNY]

Thank you for the explanation Druxey. Another very useful tip to file away!

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel.

[Maury S]

And such a clean workspace.

Maury

[druxey]

Hah! Maury, have you not noticed how carefully the photos are framed and cropped?

[dvm27]

Don't believe it, Maury. I've visited Druxey's workshop and you could do surgery there!

[Landlubber Mike]

Very cool subject Druxey, I'm subscribed!

[Siggi52]

Looks great Druxey, are you interested in some picture of Prince Frederic's barge? 

 

Regards,

Siggi

[druxey]

Thanks, Siggi. I do have some photos of that barge, but if you have some you'd like to share....

 

Update: I had to rework the forward hull, as I'd omitted to remember that the sheer strake narrows almost to a point at the bow. Both sides of the plug are now lined out to my satisfaction and have been checked by viewing from all angles. It always surprises me that lines that look sweet from one angle look awful when viewed from another! Several re-works were required before arriving at what you see in the photos. I may spot more minor adjustments to make before committing myself to the plan.

[Siggi52]

So here they are. I'm very interested how that goes on, it's new to me to build a ship this way.

 

Regards,
Siggi

 

 

[druxey]

Thanks, Siggi. The barge is displayed much better than it used to be years ago. Fortunately the Greenwich Hospital barge has nowhere nearly as much carved work!

[jbshan]

You certainly wouldn't want to put any weight forward in those.  It might get very wet quite quickly.

[druxey]

After some re-working of the planking runs, I've devised a scheme for the shift of the butts and marked these on the plug.

 

Now that the 'non-boat' work is almost complete, it's time to get back to the actual model. I needed to devise a method of keeping the keel straight on the plug. If not stabilized, it will deflect as I fit the garboard strake. My solution is to drill small holes at intervals along the plug, then set sharp-ended pieces of hard brass wire, points uppermost. The keel will be pressed down onto these points. The resulting holes will be hidden under the keelson later on.

[rafine]

Druxey, your quest for perfection is a pleasure to watch.

 

Bob

[druxey]

Well, there's been a little progress made between other projects. I decided to revise the scheme of planking butts and I'm happier with the new layout. The plug has been cut back along the central spine (arrowed) to ensure that it will not become accidentally glued to the plug while planking. The tiny transom has also been added and bevelled to conform to the plug's contours. The overall photo shows six small brass pins in place to secure the keel while installing the garboard strakes.

 

Next up will be to wax the plug, then cut some very thin planking stock to ¾" thickness.

Edited January 31, 2016 by druxey

[druxey]

A small update: Before waxing the plug, I drew in the overlaps of the clinker planking. I made them 1" wide and are seen as dashed lines on the plug. Two coats of Clapham's beeswax polish were used over the mark-out.

 

Leaves of ¾" thick Castello have now been prepared for the planking. They were cut a little over-thick and then taken down almost to spec on a thickness sander. Finer grades of sandpaper on sanding blocks produced a smooth surface. Hopefully there will be time to commence planking soon.

Edited February 2, 2016 by druxey

[jbshan]

Soooo... you plank right on the plug, remove keel and plank in one unit, then add frames, etc.?

Slightly different than the set of boats I watched you build a few years ago.

Hopefully there will be no heart-stopping 'CRACK' when the disassembly comes.

[druxey]

That's correct, Joel - I hope! The last clinker boat I built was done this way. It's amazing how clinker planking holds the boat's shape. I even took the boat off the plug when half-planked to demonstrate. The frames will be bent in later on in the process.

[shipmodel]

Hi Druxey - 

 

Always a pleasure to watch you work.  I have long wanted to do a similar ceremonial barge, but my questionable skills at the final decorative fiddly bits always held me back.  I have a handy supply of popcorn and Makers Mark and have settled in to enjoy.

 

I am wondering how you will make the butt joints between planks in each strake.  In full size practice they are beveled scarfs pinned with the same rivets as the lap between the planks.  Are your joints going to lie on the ribs that you will install later? 

 

Dan

[Burroak]

Druxey your doing some fine work. I will be following along with everyone else.

 

Greg H.

[druxey]

Thanks for all the 'likes' and comments, everyone. 

 

Dan: the planking butts are arranged to fall on the frames in the model. I'm not going as far as bevelled and clenched joints on 1/64" thick material! This is a 1:48 scale exercise. I may be mad, but not entirely crazy.

[captainbob]

What a lovely barge.  Sorry I'm late but it looks like I got here just in time for the exciting part, the planking.

 

Bob

[Mirabell61]

Hi Druxey,

 

what a wonderful project ! It looks like a very ambitious build. Love those fine sharp lines, and that you will be clinker planking the plug you are momentary at.....

Am already curious how you will do the carving job for all those sweet decorations

 

Nils

[Erebus and Terror]

How could I possibly have missed this?

 

I'm very excited to follow your log, Druxey. A fascinating subject, too. 

 

My notebook and pencil are ready!

[druxey]

Thank you, gentlemen all. 

 

Finally had some quality time on the model. The first garboard plank is now spiled, cut, shaped and fitted. The stock is thin enough to cut with a sharp scalpel blade. The twist was achieved by cold wet bending and holding in place using rubber bands until dry. Castello takes more persuasion to bend than holly. Once the plank was dry, it was glued in place. I needed to cut back the plug more at the bow to allow the plank to land nicely in the bow rabbet.

 

One plank down, many more to go!

[jbshan]

druxey, is the lap feathered, that is, does the hull appear smooth midships and show the full depth of plank at bow and stern?  That method has always bewildered me.  Perhaps I should take notes as well.