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IJN Battleship Ise 1944 by RGL - 1/350 - FINISHED


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My next build is the Hybrid battleship Ise. Converted in 1943/44 to a carrier ship, and half sunk in 1945 in Kure Harbour, Japan.

 

The class after the Fuso so there are a lot of similarities which will allow me to use the AOTS Fuso for reference.

 

During the build of Isuzu, I decided to do something much more complicated, lots more features. I would like to do an Aircraft Carrier and I like all the underlying lattice of beams, but you pay a lot of money for a flat top.

 

The Fujimi Ise offers the best of both worlds. Flight deck and cannons plus pagoda tower.

 

The prices and additions vary widely on this kit. You can get it for nearly $900 on Ebay!! I ended up getting it from Japan for $200 and arrived in OZ in a couple of days. Included were two separate photo etch sheets from Fujimi which seem to sell for around $100 each so I'm ahead. The Fujimi wooden deck is a bargain at $600 just for the deck. I went for the thrifty Artwox version.

 

I got the flyhawk upgrade, which mainly focuses on support struts, barrels and 12.7mm guns and 2D 25mm's.

 

The rear deck needs rails and turntables (not in any of the PE), the decks need lots of vents and other dandyfunk, and around 30 triple 25mms.

 

Opening the box it's fairly strait forward, but It's going to suck up a LOT of aftermarket to bring it up to a decent standard. There are some video's of her on Utube.

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HA, I knew it, you are getting predictable!!! Love the choice of ship, Greg. I'll be enjoying this one: A carier battleship or a battlecruiser, magnificent

 

"I would like to do an Aircraft Carrier and I like all the underlying lattice of beams, but you pay a lot of money for a flat top."

You should buy a model kit, not the real thing ... Are you getting mean, ... start to look like a Dutchman, am I rubbing off on you ...

How about a 1/700? Same finance for the aftermarket?

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Still getting my head around very poor instructions and forward planning as much as possible. But, one must make a start somewhere, so I added the 14 strengthening struts which all needed to be filed down (they don't fit without a hammer). 

 

I drilled out and filed out the hawser holes so I can use proper anchors and replace the anchor chain covers. 

 

Lots of gaps to fill and the supports for stand pedestals. 

 

You can see it's a big kit, and will be a lot more complex than Yamato. 

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Western equivalent, HMS Furious Battlecruiser partially converted to carrier, then later to a full carrier.

 

She was a weird duck too. Started out with two 18" guns one each in two turrets, one fore and one aft. Later fore turret removed, and flat top added forward. The Pilots had to manouver around the super structure to land. Later aft turret removed and aft flight deck added, but too much turbulance from super structure. Then cut down and made full carrier.

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Danny, yes, but given the tiny scale, it does not work on the small bits as a 0.01mm point of PE does not stick. 

 

The thing about PE at this scale and CA, is that CA makes a better putty than putty. When it comes to big bits like the entire side of a ship you can take the time to drill the multitude of holes to have individual stanchions. 

 

If it was resin it would drill well, plastic bends and melts. 

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6 hours ago, RGL said:

Danny, yes, but given the tiny scale, it does not work on the small bits as a 0.01mm point of PE does not stick. 

 

If it was resin it would drill well, plastic bends and melts. 

I think you meant 0.1mm. I rather doubt anyone we know would make a one HUNDREDTH of a millimetre drill bit ;).

 

Ah yes, I forgot about the PLASTIC bit. Even using a Pinvise the drill bit would clog. PE won't stick a 0.1mm point to paper either, which is why I drill mine (using a 0.2mm drill bit).

 

:cheers:  Danny

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Greg, I just bought a set of these from BNA. The smallest as you can see is 0.2mm. Cheap enough ($11.95), and they drill really well (in Paper :D). Haven't tried them on anything else yet.

 

Carbide drills are notoriously fragile :(.

 

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I don't know how THESE 3D Printer Nozzle Cleaning Drills would go, but at under $3.00 per drill aren't bad value for that size.

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Damn sight cheaper than THESE ONES though :D.

 

EDIT - Hold the fort - just found THESE on Ebay. Carbide, but a whole lot cheaper than the ones you've been buying (and FREE shipping). I'm going to get a couple of sets of the smaller sizes, I'll let you know if they're any good when I get them.

 

:cheers:  Danny

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I use both those type bits pictured, and both break rather easily. It's mostly due (I think) to awkward motion created by hand drilling. That said, I don't know of any better alternatives than these bits. Generally, I use the wire bits for a pilot hole first, then slightly enlarge the hole using the CNC bits depending on the end diameter needed. 

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So, 2 days of working on the funnel. No photos to show yet, multiple platforms. Got most of it finished then pulled it apart again as it was misaligned. I'll have another go on day 3. 

 

Its soo dry here the CA will not go off which is really becoming problematic as the thing with PE is getting a rapid set as it's all so small it's hard to hold for any extended period. 

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I go away for a couple of days and see what you do Greg!  You don't muck around between builds do you?   Seems you have a real affinity for the WWII Japanese ships (or are you just trying to use up the remaining PE from previous builds ;):) )

 

Are you planning on this one being a real work horse also?  Look forward to this build, it looks an interesting ship.

 

cheers

 

Pat

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