Group Prototype HMS Winchelsea - FINISHED - 1764 - by Chuck (1/4" scale)

[Chuck]

Greg

 

Thats probably the way i will go.  But at least now everyone can see both variations and choose for themselves.

 

looking forward to some GUMBO!!!!

[ChrisLBren]

Hey Chuck - don’t miss this place in New Orleans - Napoleon House. Great Gumbo and Muflettas. The place has history - originally they wanted to spring Napoleon from Elba and move him here but he died first. Favorite bar in New Orleans - have a Pims Cup ! 

[ChrisLBren]

https://www.napoleonhouse.com

Edited December 7, 2019 by ChrisLBren

[Chuck]

Yummy!!! Cant wait.  Have a 6am flight so i will probably be wiped when i arrive.  

[knightyo]

I think natural looks best.  Maybe with a wash applied?  That would be an interesting experiment.

 

Alan

 

 

[Jim Rogers]

7 hours ago, Chuck said:

Minerva is one of my favorite models.  It always serves to inspire me.  Here is my version (a little hesitant to place my wok against such a masterful contemporary model) of the shingled roof left natural.  I kind of prefer the natural look.  But I will sleep on it a bit.  What do you guys think.  I think the dark roof is too "in your face".  But I could be wrong.  Note how thin the shingles are sanded after each row is completed.  These are boxwood shingles.

 

This is just me but I think that Fruitwood Gel Stain would make it all pop. 

[Jim Rogers]

40 minutes ago, Chuck said:

Yummy!!! Cant wait.  Have a 6am flight so i will probably be wiped when i arrive.  

Make sure you post about the new Airport. 

[Matt D]

Chuck, thank you for putting in the effort to show this several ways.  My favorite is the natural wood shingles withe the top painted to match the frieze.

[amateur]

Out of three, my favorite is the grey one. It doesn't shout out, like the black one, and there is a nice balance in the upper and lower part of the galleries. 

But pics can be misleading, the real thing in broad daylight should be what counts

 

the top painted is definitely better tham unpainted.

 

Jan

 

[Jorge Diaz O]

Painted.

[Wacom]

I prefer the natural look.  Sometimes it can be difficult to find a good match with the paint and the printed frieze. Plus its such a small area and the fancy rail will affect how the roof finally looks.

[Jack H]

I think this discussion is very good, because I have been thinking that using CNC machining parts will make all models look the same, which will make the model making become a boring thing? That's going to take away the "soul" of model making. When I see so many opinions, I think it's very good. 

[ChrisLBren]

I am very curious here about a decal approach for the frieze - it would allow variance of color for the background  and would allow you to apply the same finish you wish on top of the decals for a match to the hulls finish 

[Beckmann]

Slate was propably used to cover a qgallery in those days. Here is an old shingle together with the Winnie.

The qgallery of HMS Surprise has a comparable construction. My daughter visited the ship in San Diego in 2017. Here is a picture.

HMS Victory and HMS Trincomalee have both Black roofs over the qgallery.

[druxey]

Some contemporary models have blue or blue-grey painted 'slates' with white outlined edges. At least one model that I've seen has tiles with a central raised line like the vein on a leaf.

[Chuck]

Ughh!!!! Long night

 

Bourbon Street at 5am.  It aint pretty.  But fun and now a bit fuzzy.

 

[svein erik]

1 hour ago, Chuck said:

Ughh!!!! Long night

 

Bourbon Street at 5am.  It aint pretty.  But fun and now a bit fuzzy.

 

nice photo... and there is a lot of garbage😲 you need to take a new one

befor and aft photo😆

[Kusawa2000]

Looks like a good time was had by all!!!!

[Tigersteve]

Like your first version of painted shingles best v natural 
Steve

[jgilchrist800]

Painted tends to cover up all the mistakes made by us truly amateur model ship builders!

 

John Gilchrist

Rosenberg, TX

[Trussben]

Au natural for me, the friezes are enough of a contrast with the hull.

[Chuck]

A small update.....the starboard side is almost complete (for chapter three anyway).  I just want to add that fancy rail on the top of the qgallery.  But today I finished the friezes and molding on this side.   

 

 

Remember, the middle molding goes on first.  It is a scraped 3/32" wide molding.  It establishes the proper sheer run.  Then you can add the friezes above and below that molding strip.   You should do this without the qgallery roof glued into position.  It is done this way so the roof can cover the friezes (be glued on top of it) and you will get a nice clean edge.   This way you want have to cut the frieze around the roof and shingles.

 

The lower molding is also scraped in the traditional way.  It is also 3/32" wide.  It has a different profile than the middle molding.  Check out the images of the contemporary model in the gallery before you make your scraper for the molding.  You can cut the short lengths that need to be added between each port.  In addition,  you will need to cut the frieze around each port.  I found this easier to do after the frieze was glued on.  Use a very very sharp xacto blade.  Go slow!!!  Then finally, locate the fixed blocks which are now covered by your frieze.  To do this, poke a drill bit through the sheave holes from the inboard side to puncture the frieze.  Then carefully cut the frieze away to reveal the sheave slots.  I ran a sharp pencil in the sheave slot to clean it up and make it neat.  It also darkens the sheave.

 

Then glue the top frieze into position.  Try and locate the seams between each segment over a busy part of the design.  This will help hide it.  You would be very hard pressed to find it on my model.  The frieze will not go all the way to the sheer.  It will be about 1/16 - 3/64" below the shear.  This is to accommodate the top run of fancy molding.  

 

This molding is not scraped.  It is laser etched and cut for you from boxwood.  I did this so I could also match it to the scrolls (volutes) along the waist.  I think it looks pretty good and mixing traditional scraped molding with a laser cut one is a good approach.   Much better than using a laser cut molding for every occurrence.

 

Be very careful with the scrolls when you sand them....they are fragile at only 1/32" thick.  The first thing you should do is lightly sand the top surface with some 320 grit sandpaper.   Then remove them from the sheet.   Use a light touch and then remove the laser char from the edges.  As you do so, remember to support the scroll between two fingers so it doesnt break along the grain.  Again use a light touch.  Dont try and clean the char in the inner edges of the swirled scroll.   It will break.  To finish them up, round off the top and bottom edges.  The same can be done with the lengths of laser cut molding so they match the scrolls and can be glued together so you cant see the seams between them.

 

 

Dont try and scrape the char from the laser etched grooves.  It just wont work and if you just leave it as is t will look great.  This is what I did with mine.

 

When its all done...this is how it should look at the bow.  Take note of where the molding ends.  Once I finish the other side, I will paint the bollard timbers black.  You could do this ahead of time as well.  Probably easier that way.  Everything above the bottom molding will be painted black.  You cant really tell the difference between the laser cut and etched molding and the scraped molding in that close up!!  Its just a little darker where the char sits in the grooves.

Lastly...at the stern, notice on the contemporary model that the top molding does not extend to the transom. The blue of the frieze extends right up to the shear.  The black cap which we will add later will sit on top of the shear.   The molding ends at the rail on the qgallery roof.  Which I will add next.

 

 

 

ANY questions or comments???  I dont think I forgot to mention anything.....remember....a light touch when sanding those scrolls....really.

 

And I still havent decided on the roof color for the quarter galleries....but I have to decide so I can add that rail.  By the way, I havent even started on the port side yet.  So lots to do before I start working on the stern.

[CaptMorgan]

Beautiful work Chuck.  You continue to raise the bar....    👍

[Chuck]

I also want to thank Simon Stephens at the National Maritime Museum for getting me these great photos of the contemporary model.  He is the curator of ship models there.  I wouldnt have been able to recreate the friezes like this without his help.   Thanks Simon!!!  😊

[Stuntflyer]

Nice work, Chuck! I know you're still undecided, but I'm leaning now towards the blue-gray slate roof rather than natural.

 

Mike

[Chuck]

You guys are supposed to help make that decision easier...lol.   It looks evenly split.

[Dowmer]

Chuck, time and again you have tried to replicate the original model.  Why not do that here? I like the slate colored roof of the original and is probably period correct.

[Chuck]

You are probably right.  I have til the weekend to decide as i wont have time till then to finish up the qgallery rail. 

[Hubac's Historian]

I’m for the slate.

[Rustyj]

Hi Chuck, I've just caught up with your progress and she is looking outstanding.

I throw my vote to the painted group. I'll be fun to see the various approaches everyone takes.