ancre La Renommee 1744 by ChrisLBren - 1/48 Scale

[ChrisLBren]

I'm not taking any time off - this build has been a goal of mine and it will probably take 12 years at my 10 hour per week pace ! 

 

As I assemble these pieces I am pondering caulking - most of the classic models in museums do not represent it.  However there is some charm to it.  In the past I have used an HB lead effectively on deck planks but never on hulls.  1/48 is also a new scale to me.  Any thoughts here - black paper, felt marker, etc ?

[Landlocked123]

Hi Chris,

 

I haven’t tried this, but I intend to check it out shortly.  I think I saw the idea a while back on Ed’s Young America but I’m not sure.  The idea is to get some dark brown powdered tempra paint, the kind we used to use in kindergarten.  Mix the powder with your PVA until you get the shade you like and use the glue as you would normally.  Again, I can’t fully endorse the idea until I try it, but it sounds interesting.

 

Best,

John

[MEDDO]

ChadB in the Triton Cross section just put up his log and it included using colored putty mushed into the gaps and it seems to have come out well.

 

 

[Trussben]

Chris

 

For Caulking, make sure you do some tests before committing to the model, some things will bleed ( sharpie, India ink ) especially on end grain, or when you put your final finish on.

I tried black paper in keel scarphs originally but it makes the joints weaker.

I’ve used pencil with great results as I don’t like my caulking to look too obvious and you can increase decrease the affect by putting pencil only on one edge or both.

One thing I haven’t tried is the aforementioned colored glue.

 

Looking good.

 

ben

 

 

 

 

 

[Mike Y]

Black tissue paper, perforated with a sharp blade for better glue penetration and reinforced with boxwood treenails worked fine for me, no joints ever came apart (and I did some tests, could not break them by hand). But without perforation and/or treenails it would be really weak indeed.

 

Nice to see you finally making sawdust!

Edited December 2, 2017 by Mike Y

[mtaylor]

I tried the died glue using artist pigment (lamp black).  A little goes a long way and any excess needs to be wiped off PDQ or it soaks into wood where you don't want it.  As the others have said.. test first... and I'll add, then test again.

[Rustyj]

Hi Chris,

 

Two pieces down and a whole lot more to go! Seriously its great to see you cutting wood again.

 

For my Confederacy, Winchelsea and Cheerful hulls I also used pencil. I applied it to

one side of the plank. If you want a bit of a thicker look you can apply pencil to both planks.

As Ben said give the different styles a try and chose the one you like best.The only time I used

black paper was on a 1/24 cross section. It seemed too thick for the others. 

 

 

[Ponto]

I`m sure it will end up being a magnificent piece when all is said and done.......enjoy every minute of the process.

[ChrisLBren]

Happy Hollidays Gang !  Not much modeling time going on right now - this stinker showed up on Christmas Eve - very sweet 9 week old Boxer pup....

[ChrisLBren]

Hey Group,

 

I am back - this build is proving to be a challenge.  I thought about a cross section ("slice" for my French friends) out of frustration - but after researching other build logs and being inspired - I am committed to building this ship fully rigged if its takes me 20 years.  I am in love with her...

 

My current status - I have wasted a pear board 2 inches by 24 learning to use my tools (spindle sander, all of the Jim Byrnes tools, Dewalt scroll saw and my Lie Neilsen chisels  - sharpened this weekend) and here are my results.  I am not completely satisfied and am probably on my way to wasting another board to get this right - (not to mention I will be working with ebony on the black parts above the waterline - so this assembly will be severed.  Yes I am well aware of the challenges of working with Ebony - shes a tough mistress but nothing replicates her appearance).  I do fantasize about building a kit at times - but the satisfaction of executing Boudriots plans flawlessly overwhelms those thoughts.

 

Back to the workshop tomorrow morning....

[druxey]

I applaud your resolution, Chris!

[Hubac's Historian]

Well, you’re a quick study on the tools!  Great beginning!

[mtaylor]

Looks good, Chris.  Keep slogging away as the trip is worth the result.  These French ships are "different" compared to the US and English but beauties in their own right.

[Trussben]

Chris, “it’s the journey” I keep telling myself when things go wrong on my Pegasus build, which seems to happen far too often.

 

When I talk to some of the greatest modelers and builders on this site I find the answer is always the same, you are trying to recreate the most complex machine that man had ever built at that time, in miniature scale!

 

Learning the tools takes time and repetition but it will come, I couldn’t cut within an inch of a line on my 788 when I started, now I’m running a 64th away as long as I remember to put a new blade in and tighten it right, LOL.

 

Keep your head up brother and keep going.

 

ben

 

[dvm27]

Chris, no matter how good your work looks now you'll want to replace it six months down the road. There's a definite learning curve here but you've made a good start. I find that what helps me a lot is to wear 5x loops when doing any joints. I use them not only because I have extra crappy vision but I find that if I am happy with a joint made under magnification it looks really good without them. 

 

That's an adorable puppy. By the time you've finished your model she'll have tumors, osteoarthritis, glaucoma and bad breath.

[druxey]

Seems like Greg the vet is trolling for your business....  

[JOUFF]

Hi Chris!

Glad to see this "post" alive again! It's a big challenge, it's true, but I'm sure you'll do it, I have no doubt !
These few pieces are a good start, you can perhaps work on cheap wood to train at first ... it will not be a waste of time because you will do your hand for less.
I can not wait to see the rest my friend !
 

Patrick

[ChrisLBren]

Thanks guys - I am re energized - the biggest challenge is trying to find time in the shop.  With every attempt the parts are getting closer to spec - considering I bought a flitch of pear wood - a couple of wasted boards isnt a big deal in the overall picture !  

 

Greg - hoping this Boxer lives a healthier life than my last one - I really did my homework vetting a good breeder this time.  My other one was a cancer factory - but somehow made it to 8 years with a lot of vet bills !

Edited March 6, 2018 by ChrisLBren

[Landlubber Mike]

I'd say take your time Chris.  I'd rather have one ship that represented my best work, than 4-5 ships that I put together in the same period of time that weren't my personal best.  

 

Plus, if your wife is like mine, she'll appreciate your house not looking like a museum.  My wife's friend was over this weekend and saw my Renommee on the kitchen island.  First thing she said was that she was really impressed I was tackling such a difficult project.  Second thing after I left the room was to ask my wife if she was going to be ok with my putting these models all over the house.  My wife assured her that I was so slow in building that she wasn't too worried.

[ChrisLBren]

Hey Group,

Getting closer - but the joints are still not tight enough.  The current method Im using is my DeWalt scroll saw and then finishing with the Byrnes disk sander and metal files.   Sanding off the edge of a disc sander for a scarf joint is probably not the best way to use this tool - its extremely effective however in getting parts to close tolerances - which hasnt been an issue .  I am thinking a sharp chisel - probably 1 inch wide would be more effective for a precision fit.  I am cutting 1/4 inch thick pear - which does splinter.  Any suggestions are appreciated !  

[ChrisLBren]

Ok so just purchased a 1 inch chisel from Irwin - they were sold out of the Stanley's - so I'll probably need to spend more time sharpening it. I also bought a nice dead blow mallet.

 

My plan is to follow Davids method from his book - cut the piece out with my Scroll saw at about 1/32nd tolerance on the joint. I'll clamp the piece to my cutting board and make sure the chisel is perpendicular - and we'll see....

[Trussben]

Chris,

 

I know a few guys who have used the mill to do some joints, however all mine on Pegasus have been done with the disk sander, chisels and files, just took a while to get experience doing it to a good level, and taking my time as well.

[Hubac's Historian]

Hi Chris,

 

1/4” can be difficult to gauge for perpendicular.  It may seem and look right until you try and mate it to the adjoining piece, that was also squared by eye - only to find that one face of the joint is tight and the other face seems wide open.

 

When it’s critical that I have two perfectly mating surfaces, I will sometimes do the following:

 

Surface a piece of stock (1” thick) on two sides, so that the piece is perfectly flat (no bow, or cup), and be sure to make the piece large/long enough to clamp to your work surface, while still leaving enough hand room to work comfortably.  Square at least one straight edge to both faces.  If you don’t own a good try-square, it is always a sound investment; IMO, Starrett still makes the best rules and squares. 

 

Place a loose piece of 1/4” stock that exactly matches your part thickness, and is large enough to support your paring guide-board above, onto a flat surface with enough overhang that you can align your joint layout with the square, straight edge. Clamp down tight.  If there is a thousandth, or so, difference in thickness between your part and the spacer board - and the part is still loose after clamping the guide board - then a strip of blue painters tape on the backside of your part will close that gap.

 

If your rough cut is already within 1/32” of your line, it isn’t even necessary or desireable to make chopping cuts with a mallet; there is too much force involved with chopping, so that the likelihood of shifting your guide block or un-intentionally undercutting the joint is significantly greater.  As long as your chisel is razor sharp, you can make shallow, paring cuts until the flat back of your chisel is right up against your guide block.

 

Repeat for the mating surface, and you should end up with a perfectly mating joint and an assembly that stays closed on a flat surface.

[ChrisLBren]

Thanks for the advice - I do love this mallet - I've already ran some tests - with light force it's very effective with its balance. So I'll clamp a metal square to the piece to insure my chisel is 90 degrees - stay tuned 

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CER0PC/ref=pd_aw_sbs_469_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8NKPXP58T76AK6DFEVHH&dpPl=1&dpID=61i0dlhSQzL

[druxey]

Practice with a well-sharpened edge. Miniature joints should not need a mallet! If your chisel is sharp enough, it should make a crisp apple-cutting sound. I use my thumbnail to incrementally cut back to the joint line. Line the chisel up against the wood edge, place your nail against the back of the blade. Move your thumbnail back a thou or two, lift the chisel until the back touches your nail again and cut. This gives a high level of control. After some practice you can sense when the chisel is truly vertical.

Edited March 11, 2018 by druxey

[ChrisLBren]

I appreciate the advice Druxey ! 

 

I still swear by my new 12 oz mallet. I used it successfully tonight - it gives you a sense of balance combined with controlled force. I tap it lightly and go slow and I turned out a perfect joint - no light when I held it up to a bright light - that's a first ! 

 

So 50 hours and a pile of scraps later hoping to show my first useable parts - just need to decide on my preferred caulking simulation. 

Edited March 12, 2018 by ChrisLBren

[ChrisLBren]

OK the first joint is out -  pics show both sides - caulking simulated by a Chinese Marker - aka Grease Pencil.  

[Trussben]

That appears to be an acceptable joint there Chris.

Whatever way way works best for you is the main thing.

 

ben

[ChrisLBren]

Thanks Ben - it could be tighter - but if I keep working this joint - I'll never get anywhere ! I do love this Pear wood - it's far better than the wood I used on Confederacy 

[paulsutcliffe]

Hi Chris

You can also try putting the flat face of the joint in a vice and use the jaws to ensure you get a perfect flat face to join together, Daves did a how to in one of his logs a couple of years ago using tape, a vice and chisel, done correctly they always come out perfectly, search scarph and daves from the lumberyard

Regards

Paul

Edited March 12, 2018 by paulsutcliffe