HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1/4" scale

[Stuntflyer]

The planks that go around the mast partners and coamings are difficult to make and took some careful planning. In a failed attempt, I tried to make all the cutouts at one time. Rather than waste more wood, I decided to make card stock templates that closely matched the area being worked on. The plan was to work one tab at a time. Once a tab was completed, I would then move onto the next tab.

 

 

 

This template was tricky because it required spanning two tabs in order to establish the proper shape. Notice how the tab tapers in width.

 

When it came time to glue, I adhered a short section of the plank to the false deck. This would make it easier to finish up the remaining unglued areas afterwards. Softer wood strips were used as clamps against the margin plank.

 

Once the glue was set, I moved onto gluing the remaining areas of the plank.

 

Pillar files and a sanding stick were used to shape the parts. Sticky back sandpaper was adhered to the stick and sanded flush with its edge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mike

 

 

Edited January 11, 2021 by Stuntflyer

[FrankWouts]

Wow, what a sharp build real beauty and though I haven't even started myself, there's so much to learn from you Mike!

[wyz]

Mike, I have a question for you.  Where did you get the external profile and body plan I saw on page 1 of your log?  Is it an enlarged copy of a plan in a  book/manuscript or is it a plan you sent away for.  If you did send away for it,  where is it from, and how much did you pay for it?  It doesn't look like it's from the NMM.  I would really like to get a copy myself.  Thank you.

Tom

[bruce d]

9 minutes ago, wyz said:

Where did you get the external profile and body plan I saw on page 1 of your log? 

 

Here it is:

http://ao.sa.dk/ao/data.ashx?bid=31918117

 

It's a real peach, ain't it?

[KenW]

Hey Mike:  You're really doing a great job.  I just have a question:

For the "The planks that go around the mast partners and coamings",  is the angle 45 degrees?

Thanks.

[Stuntflyer]

I used an angle of 27°, Ken. Just an arbitrary number I came up with after looking at the plan.

[KenW]

Thanks Mike.  Your model really looks great!

[Stuntflyer]

The deck planking and waterway are finished along with a coat of W-O-P. 

 

I found a height discrepancy, so I added a paper or card stock shim to compensate. The idea was to avoid having to sand the parquet floor in order to even things out.

 

Mike

 

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

astounding, Mike.

[scrubbyj427]

That looks awesome! What motivation!

[mati]

Mike,

 

Thanks for showing to us your build... it's just pure ship modeling porn 😂

 

I love this super clean build.
Really impressive.

 

Two questions... if I may... 😉

What are you using to imitate hull and deck caulking? Graphite... pencil?

Friezes are printed on regular paper?
They look so good.

 

Some time ago I was doing some tests with decals (like from plastic model kits) 

With some setting and softening solutions they lay very so well on prepared wood giving some nice texture from planking. 

 

Cheers,

Matt

Edited February 14, 2021 by mati

[wyz]

You did a beautiful job on that deck Mike.  It's really nice!  Your fellow model builders have come to expect this kind of precise workmanship from you.

Tom

[Thistle17]

Michael, just superb! You are such an artisan. You are an inspiration that i can only hope to follow.

Joe

[Stuntflyer]

Thank you all for the comments and "Likes".

 

Matt>I've been using a #2b pencil on one of the two plank edges being joined in order to simulate hull and deck caulking. If I wanted a darker simulation I would pencil both plank edges.

 

Chuck provides a color pdf of the friezes that can be printed on regular paper stock.

 

Mike

 

Edited February 15, 2021 by Stuntflyer

[mati]

Thanks Mike!

 

That's what I thought... pencil

I'm using the same method

 

Waiting for your next update!

Take care!

 

 

 

[Gahm]

This is pure joy to watch your build! Your model is fantastic!

 

Thomas

[Stuntflyer]

I've been working on a number of things such as the gun port lids, gun carriages, ladders and rudder. Today I finished the two ladders that go below the gun deck. The initial assembly was all about getting things square and locked up, using the two sides and top and bottom steps. Once done, I inserted the remaining steps. Each step needed to be beveled slightly on the bottom in order to fit into the side grooves. To keep things neat, I glued the steps to the sides from underneath the ladder with a tiny drop of slow drying 3 hour epoxy. The epoxy will eventually wick into the joint and not be seen when the ladder is installed. Once dry, I rounded off the top forward edge of each step and sanded the step overhangs flush with the sides of the ladder. After a coat of W-O-P the ladders were ready to install.

 

 

The ladders position was established in such a way that the back and bottom of the sides are sitting flush to the coaming and deck below, respectively. Four layers of the green tape was used to mark the position of the ladders top. The blue tape makes it easy to hold onto the ladder while inserting it. When installing, center the top of the ladder within the coaming and up against the bottom of the green tape. Then lower the bottom of the ladder onto the deck below. Notice where I marked the position of the ladder on the green tape.

 

 

 

Mike

Edited March 18, 2021 by Stuntflyer

[scrubbyj427]

That looks really good Mike! thanks for the tape tip, I will definitely be using that.

JJ

[knightyo]

That deck is absolutely gorgeous.

 

Alan

[Gahm]

This really is a high precision master piece!

 

Thomas

[PhillH]

That is fantastic looking deck.

 

Phill

[JpR62]

What a great example of perfection! This is absolutely top notch work.

[FrankWouts]

Beautiful build and following with great interest Mike!

[Rustyj]

Very very nice workmanship Mike. You're an inspiration to us all!

[Stuntflyer]

Thanks so much guys for the nice compliments! I wish I could move along a bit faster but, I often find that the hurrier I go, the behinder I get. I guess I'll leave that for the experts.

 

Mike

[Ron Burns]

21 minutes ago, Stuntflyer said:

I'll leave that for the experts

Please give yourself a pat on the back! Along with myself you probably have the entire site watching your model come together with envy

[Stuntflyer]

Much to my surprise, Chuck was able to laser cut the rudder from 1/4" boxwood. From what I understand it took some experimentation with the settings in order to achieve a good result. I think that you will agree that he did a great job.

The black painted straps were first thinned down to 1/32” and then tapered aft down to 1/64”. 

The strap bolts were made from 20lb mono and are press fitted deep into the drilled holes, but not bottomed out. No gluing necessary. I added only two hoops at the top of the rudder. These were made from a thick, pliable cardboard type material that I found in a package for a mini miter box. They were wrapped around the rudder in one piece and the ends joined at the leading edge so as not to be seen. The uppermost hoop was omitted as it will be hidden by the rudder trunk.

I used a .010 brass strip to help in getting the bolts to stand proud consistently. I drilled an oversize hole in the strip. The hole was placed over the mono and then the mono was flush cut. Before removing the brass strip, I pushed down on the mono with a small dowel to make sure it was flush with the strip.

 

Mike

Edited March 30, 2021 by Stuntflyer

[FrankWouts]

That's indeed a sharp, crisp cut and clean and beautifully built rudder!
Compliments to both Chuck and you Mike.

Edited March 29, 2021 by FrankWouts
typo again...

[Stuntflyer]

After adding the two ring bolts to the rudders spectacle plate, I moved onto the the gudgeons and straps. These were made in the same way as I did for the rudder.

 

The mill comes in handy for drilling the strap holes.

 

7 layers of masking tape give the right thickness to sand the gudgeon and strap down to 1/32" before tapering.

 

The only working hinges are at the top and bottom of the rudder. The other three are faked by gluing the pintles into the gudgeons.

 

Mike

[Chuck]

Beautifully done Mike...

 

Chuck