U-552 by yvesvidal - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/48 - PLASTIC - Type VIIC U-boat

[lmagna]

Hi Yves

I would think that the condition of the hull would depend on when you were to depict. Right after dry docking, at the begining of a patrol, end of a patrol, etc.

 

I would assume that German U-Boats were much like American boats in that after they returned from patrol they were fairly well gone over before going out again even if that did not include dry docking. They tended to spend a fair amount of time at sea compared to other ships constantly underway with either the diesels or electric motors running full time. Also the batteries were under constant cycling and would have to be replaced quite often. Then there would be any updates that would need to be installed before going out again. Last but not least the crew would probably need a bit of rest before heading out. All of these things took time and I would think that at the beginning of each patrol the U-Boat would at least look in good condition.

 

The effects of being on patrol would show on the painted surfaces first with probably little if any rust showing up at first, if at all. Here is an example of what I am thinking a few weeks at sea would look like:

  

This is the U-505 when she was captured by the US Navy. She is a type IX, not a VII but I think the effects would be pretty much the same. Slight wear under the waterline, considerable paint flaking on the lighter gray part of the hull and superstructure with primer showing but no apparent rust. Some staining around the scuppers and freeing ports but still no apparent rust.

 

Another picture from the same incident but apparently under different lighting looks like this:

Pretty much the same except the staining around the bow. If it was not for picture #1 I would have said that the bow staining was rust. But if it is then why does it not show as pronounced staining in the higher resolution first picture?

 

Based on these pictures I would agree with Mark and say option #2 would be the most realistic while still interesting effect to try for. The capture took place after the U-505 had been at sea for 81 days.

Edited September 6, 2019 by lmagna

[popeye the sailor]

I would imagine they weren't dry docked,  unless there was a refit scheduled.  they likely took care of anything above the waterline until then.   during wartime,  these vessels had to be ready in an instant.......I'm sure a few nations learned that lesson in history.

 

#2 is the way to go.......you've done well with what you've done so far       you've put a nice spin on sub modeling....the detail is over the top!  absolutely love it!   

[Katuna]

It's my understanding that all of those beautifully weathered boats are dramatically over weathered. The boats were serviced between patrols and, while not dry docked or repainted every time, they received significant attention. Of course that changed as the war went on so they would tend to be more heavily weathered in '44-'45.

 

I'd say you're spot on with the #2 approach. with salt build up and some spotty, light rust. You're probably not far off on the anchor rust. It rarely, if ever, was used. Where your boat patrolled would be as big a factor as anything. A North Atlantic boat would not have seen the fading that a boat in the Med would have, for example.

 

As they say, less is more most of the time.

[cog]

Since you would like some realism, and you yourself are not comfy with the full version, I would advise to go for option 2. As previously said by others, it will probably be the one which fits you best to succeed with. Option 1 sounds like you do not like it at all and 3 makes you uncertain if you will manage. 

 

I had the same with my first ship's weathering and overdid the rust. Greg does some impressive weathering, but it has gotten better time and again. Now he doesn't need to add the slime, as almost all the visitors of his log drool over the build  . What might happen, is that you will have to redo the first stages of weathering, because your are getting better at it, and it is a large vessel

[CapnMac82]

Pertinent to the U-505 capture photos, that's late war paint, which would not have been to pre-war or early war standards.

It's peeling, but the primer is preventing really obvious rust (which is its job).

 

Now, for 2¢ it might be worth drybrushing some primer red, and some surface color over the rust.  Let the rust be an under-coat, but under state it a bit.

 

But, it's not my model.  Do what makes you feel best.  And, it's paint, not stone, you can undo amlost anything you do that feels "too much.".

 

[yvesvidal]

Thank you for the suggestions and comments. 

 

Yes, I agree with Katuna that most kits (especially Revell 1/72 which is an excellent base) are over weathered. I can understand the impulse and creative juice (no pun intended) that can flow when you are starting such endeavor. I have not seen pictures of real Type VII-c showing such a distress on their hull, even towards the end of the war, when maintenance was limited to the essential and panic was starting to be present in the axle forces. So we will for now, discard solution #3.

 

Solution 1 is what you will normally see in Museums: models are presented in perfect conditions and all details are immaculate.

 

Solution 2, offering a "matt" finish with saline streaks and a tiny amount of rust and flaking was for me the best approach.

 

The following picture shows the approach I took on the left, whereas the right part of the stern, shows the Museum approach with glossy paint (simply wet). The difference is striking. 

So, the entire hull has been finished, besides some details (rust and algae). I will be showing more pictures of it, in the future.

 

In the meantime, I wanted to start inserting a module into the hull. And the front torpedo compartment is an excellent candidate for that decisive phase of the assembly.

It is still missing the anchor winch and a couple of air tanks that I will be adding later on, once the module is in place in the hull. The torpedo hatch has been completed: a kingdom of rust sealed by a heavy door (missing in the kit).

"Alea Jacta Est" as the Romans used to say: The compartment is glued and there is no coming back.....

 

A few more pictures....

Now, to work on the anchor winch, air tank and the diving plane mechanism.

 

Yves

 

 

Edited September 8, 2019 by yvesvidal

[yvesvidal]

Some light shots: 

Yves

 

[yvesvidal]

Trumpeter's solution to the mechanism of the front diving planes. Actually not too bad and quite close to the prototype.

Again, the kit implementation of the anchor windlass. 95% of it will be invisible.

Can you pinpoint the original Vallejo primer peeling away from the PE parts? That primer is excellent on plastic parts but to be absolutely avoided on brass parts. Fortunately, all this decaying is not visible.

 

Yves

[cog]

2 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

Can you pinpoint the original Vallejo primer peeling away from the PE parts?

No, but the picture is rather grainy. High ISO? I presume it is on the underside of the deck grating, the middle photograph, edges of the holes in the PE

[popeye the sailor]

that edging along the top of the tube chute?  if it won't be seen........no foul     I trust you didn't use that primer anywhere else   the first module looks super in place!

[Katuna]

I like the weathering on the hull. It's just the right amount. I think that's especially true on this model (Trumpeter). On say the Revell 1/72, the only thing to look at is the exterior. With this kit, there is so much for the viewer to take in that any heavy weathering would just make the whole model too busy. I say bravo.

[lambsbk]

My gosh...that is exquisite!

[yvesvidal]

Moving along with the "extremely delicate" insertion of the rear torpedoes module. Delicate because we have the commands of the rudder to insert, the rear torpedo tube and the two propeller shafts. Before it, I had to install the rear deck light and wire it. Again, no coming back is possible, without damaging the bulkhead. I verified that both propellers are turning as they are supposed to (contra-rotations in the proper direction):

 

So, we basically have the two ends of the submarine pretty much completed.

I broke the plastic railing surrounding the rear deck light on one side. I am going to replace these plastic parts by brass wires shaped and soldered. This stuff is supposed to withstand the tension of the lines coming from the sail and the plastic part will not resist the rest of the construction. I also need to find a solution to hide the ugly couplers between the shaft and motors. In retrospect, I wish I had not cut so low...but I wanted to show the torpedo resting underneath. We'll see.

Propellers, rudders and diving planes. I wish brass props could be provided either by Trumpeter or by RCsubs. The Revell folks at 1/72 have all these goodies available on the grey market.

It feels almost real...

Lots of wires starting to pile up: Blue and white for the rear deck light and four wires coming out of the rear module for the motors and the lights.

Yves

 

 

Edited September 10, 2019 by yvesvidal

[mtaylor]

Yves,

If you can take the shafts apart, maybe sliding some shrink tube over them and couplers will work

 

She's looking very good and very real.

[cog]

But shrink tube needs to be heated ...

[amateur]

Just thinking without checking: evergreen sells styrene tubes in various sizes.

is it possible to open such a tube, slide it over the propellershaft and glue it to both motor and prop-shaft, thus replacing the rubber one? Evergreen can be painted, so it would attract less attention..?

but perhaps thosetubes are way oversized?

Jan

Edited September 11, 2019 by amateur

[yvesvidal]

Working on a few details for improving the stern.

 

1) I installed the "Clutch" to hide partially the neoprene tube. After painting, it looks a lot more palatable: 

2) I redid in brass wires (0.8 mm size) the two stern railings. These will be a lot stronger and I should be able to attach the two lines going back to the conning tower: 

Before filing..... and after, installed: 

Now, to paint them.

 

Yves

[yvesvidal]

Et voila....

There won't be any updates as I am travelling for the next three weeks. Have fun building models....

 

Yves

[amateur]

No updates! ?? That's a crime!! 

 

seriously: have a safe trip.

 

Jan

[yvesvidal]

After a few weeks off, it is time to resume our build.

 

First, I had to fix the lower part of the keel. Trumpeter designed a few slots to allow the passing of electrical wires. That does not apply to me, since all electrical connections will go through the brass tube supporting the model. So putty and paint: 

 

I will have to repaint the other side of the hull, and finalize with a soft weathering.

 

Next, I have been working on the stand for this large and very heavy model. I need to have room for a few switches and for the various resistors that will allow me to fine tune the intensity of the various LED circuits. I wish to have an harmonious amount of light throughout the vessel. Building a thick base was the best way to go. That base can later on be installed in a larger display case, although it is unlikely it will ever happen.

I will show how the tubes are secured in a future picture. It is a heavy duty assembly. No jokes.

The panel for all the switches: 

- Push button for the propulsion motors.

- One switch for the outside lights (rear, top of the sail, positions lights).

- One switch for the internal light, through the six compartments.

- One switch for the special lights (battery enclosure, equipment dials.....etc).

This will give you some ideas of the massive assembly: 

I thought about gluing some precious woods on that base. The base is 32 inches by 6 ..... After going to my local Woodwork shop and being horrified by the price of a piece of wood large enough to cover the top, I have decided to instead paint the base and give it a little bit of an industrial look. I will use a sander and multiple coats of primer to obtain as smooth as possible of a finish and probably paint the base. Not sure which color yet....

 

Yves

 

[Jim Rogers]

Check Veneersupplies.com. Very reasonable. I cover both the veneer and the base with Titebond Wood Glue, let it dry and then iron it on. Works like a champ.

[Katuna]

Welcome back. The recess for the switches reminds me of the sub pens (hintity, hint hint). 

 

[yvesvidal]

The base is close to completion. After three or four coats of primer, putty and sanding, I gave it an industrial look with a glossy dark gray. This will provide enough contrast with the matte aspect of the hull: 

I am also  working on the electric wiring board to control independently all the lights. Adjustable resistors are used to fine tune the amount of light through each compartment. 

Finally, the Officers quarter has been glued into the hull, and the wires inserted through the stand receptacle: 

I am going to use small connectors to allow the capability to remove the hull from the stand, in case of maintenance and during the building of the three remaining modules.

 

Yves

 

Edited October 13, 2019 by yvesvidal

[yvesvidal]

Going through the wiring (relatively complex) of the lights and features of the submarine. 

 

The stands are made of usual plumbing parts and provide a stable base for that heavy model. I have finished wiring the torpedo compartments and the officer's quarters. All the connections have small connectors to allow me to take the whole enchilada apart. I suspect that the building of the remaining compartments and the conning tower may require an easier access to the hull and therefore, it is swell to be able to disassociate it from the base.

The result is quite impressive and massive: 

Close up on the radio equipment and batteries compartment: 

The hull as it stands today: 

Close-up on the various compartments: 

All buttoned up: 

Hope you enjoy that night tour of the insides of a German U-boot.

 

Yves

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Old Collingwood]

Amazing.....

 

OC.

[mtaylor]

Looks fantastic.   I hope you put a copy of the wiring diagram either inside the connector box or under the stand.  I would shudder to think about repairs.

[BLACK VIKING]

2 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Amazing.....

 

OC.

Seconded. Truly amazing 

[cog]

Breath taking Yves ...

[RGL]

You sir, are a star 

[yvesvidal]

9 hours ago, mtaylor said:

Looks fantastic.   I hope you put a copy of the wiring diagram either inside the connector box or under the stand.  I would shudder to think about repairs.

Yes, I have been thinking about this. Right now, it is all fresh in my mind, but in a few months.... it won't. I will be drawing one, for sure.

 

Yves