HMS Bellerophon by freewheelinguy - FINISHED - Victory Models - Semi-scratchbuilt

[mtaylor]

Happy Birthday, Len.  And may there be many, many more. 

[freewheelinguy]

Hope you guys are right.  Thanks for the thoughts, even belated.

 

Chuck, thanks for the supportive comment. 

[augie]

.....and one more belated HAPPY BIRTHDAY !!!

[glbarlow]

Len,

 

You're probably well past this point by now.  Just FYI, I found I had bleeding on the planks if I used a "Magic Marker" but didn't if I used a "Sharpie."  I use Holly for deck planking, so it may well be the soft maple you're using than what you use to mark it with.

[lambsbk]

Just caught up Len. I love those carronades. The ring bolts are amazing. When I get to that on my spar deck I'll be referring back to your build for reference.

[riverboat]

HI Len...... you're so right when you said it would take  24/7 to ck out all the wonderful logs here, but I'm glad I took a min . to ck your's

out. Just went thru your log , fantastic build !!.... beautiful work on the stern section . really like the way you did your decking too. Thanks for your input on my build.

Frank

[freewheelinguy]

Guys, thanks for the comments.

 

Build update:

 

Finished adding pieces to complete this phase of the build, except for items that will be added after rigging phase is complete.  I sure if I added the stern lanterns they would be knocked off many times.  Figurehead isn't added yet either.  The one that came with the casting package has a bowed left leg (won't seat flush with stem).  These items don't bend, so I made a mold of the leg out of clay.  Would like to get a replacement from Amati.

 

Things that were done since last update are:

Did all the hammock netting and stanchions.  

Added fire buckets, but didn't order enough of them.

Made and added the additional ladders required.

Made and added the channels, supports, eyelets, chainplates and deadeyes.

Rigged the four guns on the FC.

Completed the catheads, headrails and associated pieces.

Added ship boats and tied down.

 

Next step making the masts.  

 

[realworkingsailor]

Is your figurehead resin? If so you can fix any misshaping by a quick dunk in boiling water to temporarily restore its plyability.

 

Otherwise, she's looking really nice.

 

Andy

[Blue Ensign]

She surely does look impressive Len, love the broadside paint job, excellent work.

 

B.E.

[Rustyj]

Hi Len, You have done a wonderful job! I love it.

[Elia]

Len,

 

Beautiful work there, sir. Absolutely first rate.

 

Cheers,

 

Elia

[Landlubber Mike]

Gorgeous work Len - very nice!

[freewheelinguy]

Thanks for the encouraging comments.  They are greatly appreciated.

 

Arthur,

Caught me not reading the instructions again.  Might just leave it that way unless the height of the cutter causes problems with the rigging.

[gjdale]

Lovely work Len - she looks a treat!

[rafine]

A whole lot of very beautiful work since your last update, Len.

 

Bob

[texxn5]

Looks really nice, looking forward to your progress.

[glbarlow]

Great work Len.  I'll call mine done when I get to this stage.  

[Ray]

Super work as always look forwards to the masts.

[freewheelinguy]

Build Update.

 

No pix's, but wanted to mention things experienced in assembling the masts.

 

Many things can go wrong, if not attentive on order of assembly. I was originally going to just build the lower masts, add standing rigging then finish the building of the additional mast pieces.  Now I will build all the masts pieces to be assured they all play well together.  

 

Good heads up, by Arthur,  was given about the pike mounted rings.  These would have never fit on my masts.  Also holes for the pikes needed to be open to accept them.  I also needed to shape the etched pikes to have a point.  Off the sheet they are rectangle.  The plans show the pikes mounted through the top and bottom ring holes, but thinking and seeing a picture of the real world the bottoms seat in the bottom ring, not through.

 

I've completed building the lower three masts and their tops.  While making the caps for these I noticed the fore top part is the same as the main mast top.  Checked the plans and should be different size (believe Arthur pointed this out ).  Made a new one to match plans.  Also mizzen top holes on part don't match alignment on plans, so new part made there as well.

 

Just completed fore topmast and now know why some caps are in half, although this one wasn't.  If I followed the plans directions I would have been ok which have the bottom thin enough to slip the cap on before the additional buildup material is added.  I used a dowel that was big enough where this wasn't needed, so cutting the cap was necessary.  I also made square holes where the masts connect to these caps (plans and parts show round holes).

 

Will post pix's once all these pieces are built and assembled.  There is much to do, so it will be a while.

[freewheelinguy]

Brian,

 

Don't think I have any pictures of the hull planking.  I didn't worry about most of it because I knew it would be covered by copper tape.  

 

 

Thanks Arthur for the heads up on the bowsprit cap.  I still have to make one, so not a problem for me.  I won't be making this for awhile until I absolutely need to add the bowsprit after quite a lot of the rigging is in place.  This model is very large and I'm sure I would be snapping it off many times.  I don't have much space to work and will have to bring my work desk out into the middle of the floor once rigging starts.

 

I don't think anything is attached to these.  I looked as well and came up dry.  I then looked in several books I have and most just mention the four eyelets on each, but not for their use.  In Lee's Masting and Rigging does mention the use of these for top ropes then taken off once the masts were set.  Steels mentions similar for bringing up the top mast.  Seems there's also a sheave used for a block and tackle and run down to a deck eyelet.....  My explanation isn't very good.  I just don't fully understand how it was used.  Guess this falls in the category of like eyelets we add on deck, but don't add anything to them.  Hope this helps.

[freewheelinguy]

Build update:

 

Just finished up assembling and painting all three masts.  All mast sections won't be glued until the following and only the bottom sections will be glued until all the ratlines are finished. Still need to add the various blocks.  Before I can do this I must make a decision on what color for the standing rigging.  I typically use line stained with Jacobean minwax.  This time I may use Chucks dark gray rope, but I need to experiment with doing some servings first with appropriate color.  This will determine my decision to do servings and also may make up my mind on the color I want to use for standing rigging (dark brown or gray.

 

So it's off to experiment on serving.  Til later.

 

Happy modeling, 

Len

[freewheelinguy]

Thanks for the heads up, Arthur.

 

I experimented serving lines and making served strops today.  Results very satisfied.  

 

Typically, I use DMC Ecru thread for the running rigging and the same but stain with Minwax Jacobean (dark brown) for the standing rigging.  

I bought General Finishes Water based stain (wanted to try).  Satisfied results.  So the plan is:  Expresso: standing rigging (close match to Jacobean)   Antique Oak: running rigging (matches Chucks color closely from todays trials).  I have tried a couple of other Minwax colors in the past (results not satisfactory for running rigging - too yellow).

Since the bulk of the rigging is in smallest sizes and can't really see the rope detail unless under magnification,  I'll only be purchasing rope in the larger sizes.  It's just too expensive for me to justify the cost of purchasing all the rigging for this build.

I've purchased minimal various lengths of Chucks rigging rope as a sample to make my build choices.  This rigging line is super as well as his blocks.

[freewheelinguy]

Build Update:

 

Completed all masts, bowsprit, yards.  

 

Couple of things I deviated from plans:  Drawing shows boarding pikes going through both mast rings.  I brought the lower one down, so pike bases would rest on ring bottom.  

Some of the smaller yards said for center to be 16 parts instead of the usual 8 parts (with or without battens).  I just left these rounded.  This scale don't think would have shown.  I also left top gallant yards rounded for same reasons.

 

Next up all the blocks and such to be added to these pieces.

 

Everyone:  Wishing all the best upcoming year yet.  Happy New Year and hoping Santa brought everything you wanted.

 

Happy modeling,

Len

[gjdale]

That's a very nice looking set of spars there Len. Best wishes for 2014 - may it be full of rewarding modelling.

[Elia]

Len,

 

That is some beautiful work there. Very clean, crisp, and orderly. Super nice.

 

Have a happy, healthy New Year!

 

Cheers,

 

Elia

[glbarlow]

Sounds like you're making great progress.  I'm glad I pre-determined I wasn't doing masts this time around.  I look forward to seeing your photos. This one looks great, I know how hard it is to get them looking that good.

Edited December 30, 2013 by Glenn

[lambsbk]

I decided to click the picture and see the detail. Len that is truly beautiful work. Can't wait to see them installed.

[Rustyj]

Len; As usual your work is great. Love it!  

[mort stoll]

Happy New year my friend.

 

Mort

[freewheelinguy]

Build update:

 

Made turntable (bracket $4.50 from HomeDepot).  Solved my rigging problem for turning model as I rig.  Bracket is attached to plywood board, and top is attached to a 2x4 where ship base is attached.  The bracket corners have holes which after drilling some holes in the plywood allows me to use a wood pin for a stop.  

 

Purchased Chucks blocks and rigging for the larger lines.  Plans calls out 3mm blocks for buntlines and such.  I wasn't satisfied with the size (pix attached showing these on yard ), so I reordered larger 4mm blocks to replace these.  I'm using the "Masting and Rigging spreadsheet" found in the articles section on this site which I believe was setup using "Lee's" book.  This also confirmed these blocks should be larger by the size of rigging line to be used.  I also ordered triple blocks for the jeer falls where the plan shows to use double blocks.  I wish I would have waited before ordering blocks until I got to this phase of the build.  Building without the kit I had this luxury, but purchased all the blocks I thought I needed with all the other material before the start.  Wish Chucks were available then.

 

Started serving lines.  Purchased Alexey's. serving machine. Serving has been quite a learning process.  Each type of situation has been a new source of frustration, but I think I'm getting use to what works and what doesn't. Making the eyes and determining the length of the particular piece are the frustrating areas. Can't tell you how many attempts it took to come up with a satisfactory result for a eye.  Although I'm still new to this and I'm sure additional frustrations will occur.  I'm using Gutermann dark brown  2960 for the serving which matches up good with Chucks brown line.  For seizings I'm using coats 80wt line and staining with General Finishers Expresso Acrylic.  I used Minwax Jacobean on my other models, but switched for an easier cleanup product.  I would have liked to use Uni-thread fly line, but their dark brown I purchased didn't match well with Chuck's line.  Staining this line didn't work, that's why I went with Cotona Madeira which is cotton.  It is less strong, so care must be taken when tightening seizings.

 

Also in picture 5 shows yard sling which I think the thimble I choose is too small 3mm.  Didn't have larger, so when I was going to order a larger size from Model Expo saw a not saying "you can make a larger thimble from a deadeye by routing out the center".  I had 3.5 mm deadeye which I made thimbles from.  The new pieces aren't shown.

 

In the attached pictures all examples are served with the exception with the lifts which also use non-Chuck blocks (7mm Amati sister blocks). 

 

Picture 1 at top 

Picture 2 closeup of turntable and stop pin

Picture 3 closeup showing smaller 3mm blocks (look too small to me)

Picture 4 closeup of served jeer blocks

Picture 5 shows main/fore pendents, two served blocks need to redone, lift blocks for mast cap, sling yard.

Picture 6 redone block under top not completed (original made with beige line)

 

 

Thats all for now.

 

Happy modeling,

Len

Edited January 21, 2014 by freewheelinguy