HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Frank Wouts 1/48

[FrankWouts]

I’ve been away for a while with work, family, holidays, but am still very much committed and finally have some spare time to pick up my Winchelsea project again. First learned to use my Byrnes thickness sander, switch sandpapers with different grid and how to sand sheets and strips  to the correct thickness without shooting sheets and strips through the room….I learned this by experience ofcourse…

Both starboard and portside whales finished and painted now.

Only portside blackstrake still has to be and will be done this week.

Frank.

Edited October 3, 2022 by FrankWouts

[Chuck]

Very nice.   Good to see you back at it.

[glbarlow]

Well done Frank. 

Edited October 5, 2022 by glbarlow

[HardeeHarHar]

Beautiful work!

[Rustyj]

Great work Frank!

[garyshipwright]

Nice job Frank, She is looking good and look forward to seeing the whole hull planked. 

[westwood]

Well done Frank 👍
I'm glad you're back.
Enjoy the planking and I look forward to seeing more photos from the build.

[scrubbyj427]

Great to see you back Frank! Your Winnie looks right on! 

[FrankWouts]

Thanks all for the compliments and likes, it makes me feel good and eager again to carry on!
I've set myself a hopefully realistic goal to have it planked sometime around Christmas, New Year's Eve.

[jfhealey]

This looks absolutely faultless Frank. Superb.

Fred

[FrankWouts]

15 hours ago, jfhealey said:

This looks absolutely faultless Frank. Superb.

Fred

Thanks Fred, I’m glad it looks that way to you, but I know it’s not ofcourse, every hair of an inch that’s not the same height, width or length portside compared to starboard I can point out…

I’m my own worst critic too…

Frank.

[Edwardkenway]

Lovely clean planking Frank,  beautiful work all round. 

[glbarlow]

4 hours ago, FrankWouts said:

every hair of an inch that’s not the same height, width or length portside compared to starboard I can point out…

I know that problem. Sometimes it’s best to stand back 3 feet and see if you can still see it.  Not that it changes anything, we still all know where our flaws are 😄

 

Edited October 5, 2022 by glbarlow

[FrankWouts]

2 hours ago, Edwardkenway said:

Lovely clean planking Frank,  beautiful work all round. 

Thanks Edward!

Frank

[jfhealey]

I wish I counted the difference between my port and starboard sides in hairs. Fingers is closer! 

Fred

[FrankWouts]

Hi all,

I’m almost at the point of planking the underside of my Winchelsea hull. But first I have a question about fairing the inside of the hull above deck level.

It says the inside should be faired till 1/8”. I have made a wooden rudimentairy 1/8” measuring device as seen in the photograph. But is this from top to deck level the same? Shouldn’t it be a hair more than 1/8” on deck level? The bulkheads all seem to be cut that way as well and with POF models one also sees the thickness taper gradually.

Thanks, Frank.

[Chuck]

Frank...you can gradually reduce the thickness to 1/8" thick.   Not the full length down to the deck.   I would say anything around 5/32" thick at deck level and even slightly more is fine.   But not much more.   Its along the sheer that is most important.  A wide caprail is so clunky and out of scale and is typically what you see on most kit models and scratch alike.  Its a huge common rookie mistake.   

 

Chuck

[FrankWouts]

1 hour ago, Chuck said:

Frank...you can gradually reduce the thickness to 1/8" thick.   Not the full length down to the deck.   I would say anything around 5/32" thick at deck level and even slightly more is fine.   But not much more.   Its along the sheer that is most important.  A wide caprail is so clunky and out of scale and is typically what you see on most kit models and scratch alike.  Its a huge common rookie mistake.   

 

Chuck

Again a very clear explanation Chuck.  I don’t want to seem a rookie ofcourse 😉, despite the fact that I actually am on wooden ship models…

Thanks!

Frank.

Edited November 7, 2022 by FrankWouts

[glbarlow]

Frank, the 1/8 balsa I glued between the bulkheads from top to deck were useful guides in keeping me on track with the internal fairing. The little time it took to install it was worth it for me. 
 

Edited November 7, 2022 by glbarlow

[FrankWouts]

Thanks Glenn!

[Stuntflyer]

4 hours ago, glbarlow said:

Frank, the 1/8 balsa I glued between the bulkheads from top to deck were useful guides in keeping me on track with the internal fairing.

Glenn,

 

As Chuck just pointed out, do not fair to 1/8" all the way down to the deck level. If you do that, there will be a few issues to deal with later on in the build. Trust me, I've been there!

 

Mike

Edited November 7, 2022 by Stuntflyer

[glbarlow]

1 hour ago, Stuntflyer said:

do not fair to 1/8" all the way down to the deck level. If you do that, there will be a few issues to deal with later on in the build. Trust me, I've been there!

Thanks for the comment Mike. Unfortunately I must have misunderstood pages 8-9 of Chapter 2.  I faired them to 3/16 a long time ago  following those pages. So, what issues will I have to sort out now that I’m at 3/16th😳 and about to start Chapter 4?

[Stuntflyer]

Most likely no issues at all since you went to 3/16” at the deck level. However, as Chuck suggested, 5/32” or so at the deck level and taper to 1/8” at the sheer. If it is not too late then that is something you could do now. keep in mind that 3/16" at the sheer will most likely produce a cap rail that is too wide.

Going wide at the gun dock could mean that certain laser cut parts might not fit properly. The checkerboard floor is one thing that comes to mind. Also, the bulkheads for the great cabin area might be too narrow to span the deck. Planking widths on the deck will most likely have to be modified. These are just a few examples of what could happen by simply reducing the width of the bulwarks to 1/8” or less at the deck.

 

Mike

 

 

Edited November 8, 2022 by Stuntflyer

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

Really Nice work Frank. 

[FrankWouts]

I finally finished chiseling and sanding the inner gunport framing…man, what a lot of chiseling and sanding that was…it took me weeks…I’ll check the thickness at every frame again though before planking it later on.

I’m now trying to line off the lower hull…

I hope I’m doing allright like this using Chuck’s tick strips.

Frank.

 

 

Edited December 24, 2022 by FrankWouts

[Stuntflyer]

Check the run of the strips with the ship upright. You don't want it to look like the strips are sloping downwards. A gentle slope upwards as they run into the stem is preferred.

 

Mike

[westwood]

Well done Frank,
fingers crossed for planking, another fun weeks ahead of you.

 

And I wish you and all  builders a Blessed and peaceful Christmas.

[glbarlow]

Well done Frank. The long road of planking lies before you.  The good news is it feels great when you finally get to that last plank.

[FrankWouts]

12 minutes ago, Stuntflyer said:

Check the run of the strips with the ship upright. You don't want it to look like the strips are sloping downwards. A gentle slope upwards as they run into the stem is preferred.

 

Mike

Good tip Mike, I’ll check that, thanks, Frank.

[FrankWouts]

Thanks all!

Merry Christmas to you all!

Hopefully our friends in the US are

all allright with the current snow storm and temperatures below -40 celsius!

Frank.