HM Cutter Alert by Thukydides - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - first build

[AJohnson]

Looking very good.  Although I'm building a slightly different cutter, yours and B.E.'s Alert logs are my go to references on MSW! 

[Thukydides]

Log #60: Shrouds Complete

With the first two shrouds in place I followed my usual process of moving to mass production. First I made 8 laniards using 20cm of 0.5mm rope. This does waste a bit of rope, but I am unsure of how much exactly will be necessary for the proper tying off and it is much better to have too much than too little. For each of these lengths I tied a knot on one end and soaked it in diluted matt varnish to fix it. The other end I dipped in super glue to make sure it was nice and hard for threading purposes.

Then I threaded the laniards onto the deadeyes. One problem I encountered was the tendency for the deadeyes to twist. One trick I found helped with this was to first determine which way they wanted to twist and then to twist them 3 full rotations in that direction before attaching the laniards. This created an opposing force which wanted to twist back and counteracted the natural twist of the rope.

 

I used masking tape to hold the excess rope in place. I will adjust the tension on everything once all the standing rigging is in place.

With that the shrouds and standing backstays are done. I also have the pendants for the running backstays and the gaff halliard done. Next up I need to do the pendants for the spar halliards.

Edited November 12, 2023 by Thukydides

[Thukydides]

Log #61: Shroud Batons & Running Backstays

With the shrouds secured I decided to add the shroud batons before too many other ropes end up making everything difficult to manipulate. To make them I cut off two 40mm lengths of the leftover pearwood thin strips used for the molding and sanded them until they were smooth. Then I gave them a quick coat of WOP.

 

I attached them to the shrouds using clove hitch knots and gave them a coat of varnish to hold them. You may notice that I have not trimmed the ends of the thread yet. This is because it is possible that when I am doing the final tension on the standing rigging there is always the chance the tension may cause the baton to shift slightly. If this happens I don’t want to have to reattach each knot and so with the longer ends I can just pull it tight again if it releases. Once everything is finalized I can cut them short and bend them behind to secure them.

I have also been slowly adding to the ropes at the top of the mast. I mentioned in my last log that I had the pendant for the gaff done. For this I used 0.6mm line sized with 10/0 fly tying thread. For the block I followed the kit arrangement and used a 4mm double block.

 

I also got the first of the pendants for the halliards finished. This also used 0.6mm line sized with 10/0 fly tying thread. For the block I used a 3.5mm block (3mm ones recommended in the kit seemed too small). I had wanted to use 4mm single blocks for this, but I was unable to find any (due to these blocks being made in Russia, they are hard to come by these days).

I also have completed work on the running backstays. For this I decided to go with a single tackle option for the folowing reasons:

1. It is consistent with the arrangement on the Hawk model. This model is dated to around the time of Alert. Now there was likely a significant variation on cutter rigging, but I figured this was at least a reasonable choice.
2. I liked the look of it better than the double tackle option such as on the Kingfisher model detailed in Peterson. If choosing between two equally valid options, I tend to go with what I aesthetically like.
3. It is less work than the the double tackle option.

I used 0.5mm rope to run from the fiddle block through the pendant and secured it to the hull using one of the Syren large hooks. For the tackle I used 0.45mm rope and a 3.5mm single block. Again here I would have liked to use a 4mm block, but I had to make do with what I had.

 

Up next, I need to add 2 more pendants and then I will be able to start assembling the mast and move on to the mainstay and preventer stay.

Edited November 15, 2023 by Thukydides

[jpalmer1970]

Coming along very nicely !

[Thukydides]

Log #62: Rigging the Mainstay

Having finished the last halliard pendant it was time to move on to assembling the next stage of the mast. However, at this point I noticed an inconsistency in Goodwin which I want to briefly discuss. The following is a diagram I have been using to organize how I went about ordering the mast head, but there is an issue with block number 26.

This is referred to as the foresail halliard, but in all other places in the book, the foresail halliard block is sized to the mainstay, not to the masthead. Additionally it appears to me that the Hawk model follows the sizing to the mainstay convention. I have assumed that this was just an error on Goodwin’s part and plan to size the foresail halliard to the mainstay (this is also how the kit instructions say to do it).

 

Next up was attaching the cheeks (I think that is what they are called). These were glued and clamped in place and left to dry overnight.

Then on to the mainstay. There seem to be two possible ways to turn the stay in the deadeye. First there is the method used by the Kingfisher model and that is the one recommended by the kit. This was also chosen by Chuck for his Cheerful model and most models of Alert I have seen appear to go with this method.

 

The second is to wrap the stay back down around the deadeye and size it there. This is the method used in Goodwin and on the Hawk model. 

 

I decided to go with the later method as

1. I went with the Hawk arrangement for the running backstays so I might as well go with the theme.
2. Most other models I have seen use the kit arrangement so this allows me to do something a little different.

I sized it using the 0.2mm line Ben custom made for me. So with that the mainstay is attached. Next up is the preventer stay and then I will have to go through all the standing rigging to adjust the tension and secure it in place.

Edited November 16, 2023 by Thukydides

[bigcreekdad]

Magnificent!!

[Thukydides]

Log #63: Rigging the Preventer Stay

Thank you to everyone who has stopped by and commented and given encouragement.

 

With the Mainstay done, I moved on to looking at the Preventer Stay. Here there is even more variety than with the Mainstay.

 

Goodwin depicts Alert with two closed hearts. The odd thing about his depiction of this arrangement is that the line connecting the heart to the stem is thinner than the preventer stay. This does not make a lot of sense to me as it is a single line and so why have a heavier line at other parts when the thinner one will be the weak point.

The Hawk model simply depicts the preventer stay attaching to the stem using a single thimble.

The science museum model shows the preventer stay below the mainstay or possibly this is another line and there is no preventer stay.

The kit goes with two thimble sized together and Chuck’s Cheerful has no preventer stay.

 

When it comes to other builds on MSW, most have gone with the kit arrangement, but Blue Ensign decided to go with the Goodwin arrangement using the closed hearts. This latter arrangement consistent with Goodwin is what I decided to go with in the end. In this case I don’t really have a good reason for picking this over the others apart from I liked the look of it the best.

The one change from Goodwin I made as to use the same 0.8mm cable for the section attached to the stem as I felt this made more logical sense than using a lighter line. If I was being strictly correct I should probably have had a metal bit inside the served loop that attaches to the stem. However, I felt it wouldn’t really be visible and so I just stuck with serving the area.

 

I also made a small adjustment to the masthead as I was having problems with the stays slipping down. I added an eyebolt just above the last of the pendants to keep the stay from slipping down the mast. Even if not strictly correct it is barely noticable.

And with that the main standing rigging is done. In my previous log I mentioned that I was planning on next adjusting the tension on all the lines, but looking at a few other logs and thinking some more I think that I first need to get the bowsprit on the model. This may just be me trying to procrastinate on the ratlines :), but as much as I have enjoyed the rigging, it is very fiddly work and I like the idea of doing a slightly different type of task for a bit.

 

Thanks for stopping by and here is a shot of the current status of things.

[Diver]

40 minutes ago, Thukydides said:

 

Log #63: Rigging the Preventer Stay

Thank you to everyone who has stopped by and commented and given encouragement.

 

With the Mainstay done, I moved on to looking at the Preventer Stay. Here there is even more variety than with the Mainstay.

 

Goodwin depicts Alert with two closed hearts. The odd thing about his depiction of this arrangement is that the line connecting the heart to the stem is thinner than the preventer stay. This does not make a lot of sense to me as it is a single line and so why have a heavier line at other parts when the thinner one will be the weak point.

The Hawk model simply depicts the preventer stay attaching to the stem using a single thimble.

The science museum model shows the preventer stay below the mainstay or possibly this is another line and there is no preventer stay.

The kit goes with two thimble sized together and Chuck’s Cheerful has no preventer stay.

 

When it comes to other builds on MSW, most have gone with the kit arrangement, but Blue Ensign decided to go with the Goodwin arrangement using the closed hearts. This latter arrangement consistent with Goodwin is what I decided to go with in the end. In this case I don’t really have a good reason for picking this over the others apart from I liked the look of it the best.

The one change from Goodwin I made as to use the same 0.8mm cable for the section attached to the stem as I felt this made more logical sense than using a lighter line. If I was being strictly correct I should probably have had a metal bit inside the served loop that attaches to the stem. However, I felt it wouldn’t really be visible and so I just stuck with serving the area.

 

I also made a small adjustment to the masthead as I was having problems with the stays slipping down. I added an eyebolt just above the last of the pendants to keep the stay from slipping down the mast. Even if not strictly correct it is barely noticable.

And with that the main standing rigging is done. In my previous log I mentioned that I was planning on next adjusting the tension on all the lines, but looking at a few other logs and thinking some more I think that I first need to get the bowsprit on the model. This may just be me trying to procrastinate on the ratlines :), but as much as I have enjoyed the rigging, it is very fiddly work and I like the idea of doing a slightly different type of task for a bit.

 

Thanks for stopping by and here is a shot of the current status of things.

beautiful build.  I love your tidy work station, although I do not consider it work.  

[Thukydides]

11 minutes ago, Diver said:

beautiful build.  I love your tidy work station, although I do not consider it work.

Thank you, though it is only tidy when I take pictures 😄. When I am in the middle of rigging the desk very quickly becomes a mess of reference books, tools and supplies.

[Mike_H]

There is some beautiful rigging to be seen here.  Will certainly study it in due course.

[Thukydides]

Log #64: The Bowsprit

As I discussed in my last post, I decided that I needed to do the bowsprit next before I proceeded with any more rigging. As you will see this is another lesson in “it would have been much easier if I had planned ahead”.

 

First step was to make the bowsprit itself. This was done in the same manner as the other spars with my drill.

I decided to paint the end red as I liked the look of that better than the black suggested by the kit. This was done in a similar manner to previous painting. I highlighted the sides towards the bottom, the top I left largely one bright colour with some less pronounced highlights towards the inboard end and the edges. You can see a progress picture below after I had blocked in the main highlights before I started glazing to smooth the transitions.

I also decided to rework a lot of the ironwork as in many cases the kit version didn’t really match Goodwin and also at times looked a bit flimsy. These were made using scrap from the kit PE. The eyebolts you see below that were attached to the rings were the ringbolts from the kit PE with the attaching point not cut off so I could insert them into a hole.

For securing the bowsprit I scratch built using the edges of the thicker PE sheet from the kit. You can see it below compared to the kit version.

After blackening you can see the result. I also drilled a simulated sheeve into the end of the bowsprit as per the Goodwin arrangement.

For securing the bowsprit I first attached the plate.

And then I attached the rest. Notice all the damaged belaying pins. The whole process of drilling the holes for the iron bars to secure the bowsprit was fraught with problems. At one point I completely broke the whole assembly and had to reattach everything and in many cases add some paint touches to hide the damage. It would have been much easier if I had planned for all this from the beginning. In the picture you can see me gluing the ring to the plate. I have a clamp holding the laniards away as I don’t want to get glue on them accidentally.

 

[Glenn-UK]

Looking good, great work

[AJohnson]

Great detailing you are adding, those last few pictures show your painting off really well, the highlights and shading you do is so good. 

[Thukydides]

Thanks @Glenn-UK and @AJohnson.

 

The glue set and so I took a quick shot of the whole thing now that the dimensions of alert are mostly set.

Edited November 25, 2023 by Thukydides

[jpalmer1970]

Well done. That is great work with the PE. The model gets much bigger now the bowsprit is attached so be careful turning it around in a small workspace !🙂

[Thukydides]

2 hours ago, jpalmer1970 said:

Well done. That is great work with the PE. The model gets much bigger now the bowsprit is attached so be careful turning it around in a small workspace !🙂

Yes it is surprisingly big now. Part of the reason I originally was trying to delay attaching the bowsprit was for that very reason. But given all the trouble I had with the bowsprit it is probably the way to go. I am to the point in the build where no matter what I do I am going to have restricted access.

 

I try to keep it towards the back of the desk but yes I am a bit worried I will catch it at some point.

Edited November 25, 2023 by Thukydides

[CiscoH]

your “heart to stem” connection is very realistic

something to strive for

great job

[glbarlow]

Well done, quite the paint collection you have there. 

[Thukydides]

47 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

Well done, quite the paint collection you have there. 

I have accumulated a few over the years. Some get used more than others. I just buy them as I have a use for them and over the years you accumulate a lot as apart from a few colours I rarely run out as I use them in such small amounts.

Also the top shelf is made up of every additive under the sun which tend to come in large bottles and I use them by the drop:).

[allanyed]

Thukydides

I realize this is being really picky for some and no reflection on your work, which is awesome, but why do the plans show cable laid rope for the stays on the  drawing in post #365, but then shroud laid in the drawing in post #367?   Cable laid was the more common for the stays while shroud laid rope was the more common,  but not always the case, for the shrouds.  Again, nothing to do with the quality of your build which is exceptional.   

Allan

[Thukydides]

33 minutes ago, allanyed said:

Thukydides

I realize this is being really picky for some and no reflection on your work, which is awesome, but why do the plans show cable laid rope for the stays on the  drawing in post #365, but then shroud laid in the drawing in post #367?   Cable laid was the more common for the stays while shroud laid rope was the more common,  but not always the case, for the shrouds.  Again, nothing to do with the quality of your build which is exceptional.   

Allan

That is a question you would have to ask Goodwin :).

 

In general I would say that there are a number of errors / inconsistencies I have found in the drawings for the Alert book (for an example of this see post 365 where I discuss the problem of the foresail halliard). As I note in post 367 there is also the problem that the preventer stay in that diagram is attached with an obviously thinner rope which makes no sense as there is a single failure point. 

 

My practice has been as much as possible to ignore the drawings for the purposes of determining the rope type and size and just go with the steele table for the ropes (Goodwin includes it in the book). In cases where the table is not clear (e.g. naming conventions are deafferent or a line is missing), I have tried to use common sense and refer to the drawings.

 

So in my case I used cable for the stays and the shrouds as that is what the Steele table called for. The running backstays I used shroud laid as my best guess as to which was the correct rope in the table was shroud laid.

Edited November 27, 2023 by Thukydides

[allanyed]

1 hour ago, Thukydides said:

steele table for the rope

Steel is a good source and another of course is James Lees Masting and Rigging which is more detailed and covers from 1625-1860 as there were many changes over the years.  Many consider it the most complete single book on masting and rigging for English ships.

Allan

[Thukydides]

9 minutes ago, allanyed said:

Steel is a good source and another of course is James Lees Masting and Rigging which is more detailed and covers from 1625-1860 as there were many changes over the years.  Many consider it the most complete single book on masting and rigging for English ships.

Allan

I have him too and I refer to him regularly. The problem is he doesn't often explicitly address cutters and so I have to take the principles and apply them rather than wholesale copying.

 

Basically my order of preference is:

1. Steele
2. Lees (If he addresses it)
3. Goodwin (if not in conflict with common sense or the above)
4. My gut / what I think looks the nicest

Edited November 27, 2023 by Thukydides

[allanyed]

2 minutes ago, Thukydides said:

he doesn't often explicitly address cutters

Very true, and frustrating 😀  Your priority list is well founded.  Contemporary based rigging information is sorely lacking compared to timber which makes the rigging that much more difficult to research and execute, but harder for anyone to say what we have done is wrong unless grossly misrepresented.

 

Allan

Edited November 27, 2023 by allanyed

[Thukydides]

Log #65: Tying off the Stays and Shrouds

I have been very slowly tying off the stays for the last week or so. The Mainstay was fairly straight forward, there was a clear diagram in Goodwin so I decided to go with it as it made reasonable sense. I tied the sizings with 10/0 white fly tying thread. Ideally I would have preferred to use an off white, but there was limited colours available and at least it does make the detail stand out.

The preventer stay was sized in a similar manner.

The shrouds were a little more confusing as the diagram in Lees seems to show them just wrapped around the shroud and then sized to it. However, when I did this I found that it would loosen and slide up the shroud to the point at which it was sized. To remedy this after wrapping them around the shroud as pictured in Lees, I slipped the end of the laniard through the gap between the sizings of the shroud. This held everything in place and then I just ran it straight up and sized it to the shroud.

I first tried using the 0.25mm rope to size it (see the standing backstay on the right), but I thought that looked a little too big and so switched to the fly tying thread for the rest. I didn’t feel like going back and changing the standing backstay and since it is not really that noticeable unless you zoom right in I decided to leave it as it was.

And with that the shrouds and stays are in place. Next I am on the the ratlines as I think I want to do them before too many more lines are all over the place waiting to be caught on somthing.

 

[mugje]

Fantastic close-ups!

[Thukydides]

Log #66: Year End Review

With the end of the year approaching I thought I would give a quick update on the status of Alert to round out the year and look back on the progress that has been made.

 

In January of 2023 Alert looked like this:

And today she looks like this:

I am pretty pleased with the progress to date and am hoping to finish her sometime in 2024. The ratlines have been particularly tedious and I would say at this point I have done most of them between two and three times. That being said the end is in sight for the larboard shrouds and I am hopeful that the starboard ones will go a bit quicker given all the practice I have had.

[Thukydides]

Log #67: Ratlines, Ratlines & More Ratlines

I have spent almost the entirety of last month working on and off on the ratlines. Granted Christmas and all the business that comes with it happened in the middle, but it has been a slow laborious process. I think I can safely say that ratlines are my least favourite part of the build so far.

 

To begin with I marked the lines on a piece of card which I used small clips to hold it to the shrouds. I made sure Alert was in the correct position in her cradle and then used a book to line up the bottom line.

For the ratlines Steel calls for 1.5 in circumference rope, which equates to 0.19mm diameter at our scale. I used 0.2mm rope that @BenD custom made for me. The upside of using polyester rope is that there is no fuzz and it has really nice definition, looking like it is at the right scale. The downside is that it is a pain to work with for this sort of detail. It is stiff and wants to hold its shape and so slips out of knots, holds itself at weird angles etc…

 

I would say that on average I did each ratline 2-3 times to get it right. To try and make sure I had the spacing correct and to avoid over tightening and thus pulling the shrouds out of alignment, I did a few widely spaced out.

Then I filled in the gaps.

I then pulled both ends of each ratline once more to make sure it was secure and gave them all an extended shot with a hairdryer to try and relax them in position.

 

I was a bit concerned the knots would give out and so I ran some test on a piece of knotted rope to see how various glue options appeared / held up.

In the end the winner was diluted fabric glue and I coated all the knots with it. Once it had dried and I cut off the ends, I gave the entire set of shrouds a coat of diluted matt varnish.

And that is the larboard shrouds done. I did realize in the end that I allowed the middle ratlines to get a little too tight. As this was a very gradual transition I didn’t notice till the end when I held up a ruler to the side. The foremost shroud has a slight bend to it (about 1-2mm at the midpoint). However, it is barely noticeable and I couldn’t face the idea of ripping off all my work on the ratlines and starting again.

 

Next on to the starboard side, hopefully the experience I now have means it doesn’t take another month.

[jpalmer1970]

Great work Thukydides. It is a laborious process but the end result is certainly impressive! 👍

[Glen McGuire]

Agree with jpalmer - impressive work with a very tedious process.