Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build

[scrubbyj427]

Wow that does look much better. Unfortunately I used the eyebolt method on my Winnie, still looks ok but this is definitely better.

[druxey]

Eyebolts were always partially embedded as Chuck has them. Nice work!

[glbarlow]

Nice, I’ll use this technique for the quarterdeck guns. This should work great with a lighter look on those rails. 

[KennyH78]

What an awesome technique for making the eyebolts look more to scale.  I will be incorporating this way of making them for sure.  Those lower platforms look absolutely amazing. 

[ChrisLBren]

Love it Chuck - so simple but effective !!!!

[Chuck]

I finished up the aft platforms...

 

They were both planked with the scuttle lids being finished as described earlier.   But then two upright timbers were cut to length (3/16 x 3/16) and placed on both sides of the open hatchway.  This gives it more support so you can Carefully cut away the beam between them.  It will look like the pic below when done.

Then you can make the short ladder that goes in that opening between platforms.   This is typical and laser cut for you.  The only difference is that this ladder is tilted or skewed sideways.   Its an interesting detail.   The reason for this will become clear when we start building out all of the cabins.  There is a small square with the angle you will need for this ladder on the plans.  See below.

This is what it looks like in position. Brutal close-ups...

 

Then I figured it would be fun to build and install the shot lockers.

 

All pieces are laser cut. The sides were glued on top of the back piece first.  They were placed at right angles neatly.  

 

Then the front is added...which is shorter and has laser etched plank details.

 

Next comes the top piece.  This was laser cut a bit wider than needed for wiggle room.   It was glued on top and then the back side was sanded flush where the top hung over the edge.  The lids were also prepared.  It is one piece with some laser etched details.  Basically you have to bevel the top and bottom edges.  Quite a bit as you can see.

 

Here the lid piece was added. It has etched reference marks for the hinges.  The hinges are laser board and added the same way we did them for the fire hearth. The top and bottom halves of the hinge are separate pieces.   They are glued on first.  Then to finish them up a small length of 24 gauge black wire was used to simulate the hinge pins between them.

 

 

And finally added to the model...you may have to adjust the height of the shot locker AS you are building it.  It all depends on whether or not you placed the height of the aft platform differently.   Maybe you placed the platform lower and thus your shot locker may have to be shorter.   Measure twice and cut once sort of thing...its so important to get the platform heights correct.  But if you didnt, thats OK...just do some problem solving and with some adjustments you will be just fine.  I would even go as far to suggest that you test the back piece in position before you assemble the shot locker.  Then you will know if its too tall or short and you can adjust accordingly.

 

 

 

 

[Trussben]

Very nice touches Chuck.

[Nirvana]

Chuck, I am loss of words! Pure Beauty!

 

[KennyH78]

1 hour ago, Nirvana said:

Chuck, I am loss of words! Pure Beauty!

 

My thoughts exactly!

[Rustyj]

Wonderfully done!

[Chuck]

Thanks Rusty...

 

Just a small update...

 

Now that the aft platforms are completed it made sense to plank the great cabin next.   First thing to do was add the laser cut deck clamps.   These have notches cut for the qdeck beams.   You can see the deck clamp added below.   The aft side needs to be beveled to fit flush against the transom.   The forward side is left a bit long so you can trim it to fit neatly in place.  That forward-most beam notch is a bit longer to give us some wiggle room later for the placement of that beam.  In addition before gluing it in...you must shape where the qbadge window is.  Sand the shape into the bottom edge of the deck clamp as shown.  Because it could be in a slightly different position model-to-model, this detail is not laser cut into the deck clamp.

 

NOTE the red arrow.   The bottom of the notch in the clamp should be even with the top of the window or even slightly higher.  But it should not be below the top edge of the windows.   If it is, you should make adjustments before gluing it onto the model.  In addition, the bottom of these beam notches should NOT be altered.  However, when you test fit the beams and find you need to make adjustments, you can absolutely enlarge the notches on the sides and top for a better fit.   Just carefully chisel out some of the deck clamp or the planking above it to accommodate your beams.  

 

Next we will plank the inboard side of the great cabin.   I am sure most of you could do this without any issues, but to help make it easier, there is a template on the plans.  See below.

This should make it easier to cut each strake with the appropriate tapers.  There are six strakes.  I highly recommend that these planks be cut from a 3/64" sheet as they are somewhat wide at the stern.   Plus they are pretty much all drawn out for you.  I will also add that you may have to make small adjustments because depending on where you aft platform ended up , you may have a slightly different area of space.  Adjust the template accordingly and cut your planks to fit.  Again they are 3/64" thick.

 

Below shows the cabin planked inboard.  I carefully cut around that window and did simulate caulking for the plank seams.  I just used full length planks rather than show any possible butt joints.  They wont be seen anyway.  Note the forward edge of the planking runs down the FORWARD edge of the hull frame.  Keep the forward esge nice and neat right down the edge of that hull frame.

 

You might see some laser cut qdeck beams in that picture as well.  They are just laying on the lower platform.  Although we wont be adding them just yet, it will be to our benefit to have them handy while we do the next steps of fitting out the cabin benches and rudder trunk details.  The laser char was removed from the deck beams and they were cut to length.  It takes some practice on the first few to get the length correct so they sit nicely in those notches.  But dont throw it away if you cut it too short.  Just use it for the next shorter beam and work from the forward side aft when doing this.

 

 

Test fitting the qdeck beams....none are glued in as I mentioned.  Note the extra space on the first beam at the deck clamp notch.   This will let us move it around where needed when we start work on the bulkheads there.  If any of you are having a problem slipping the beams into those notches, you could easily add  another strip of say 1/8 x 1/32 cedar following the bottom of the notches and it would be fine.  I did not find the need to do that however.  But you might find it easier if there was a second layer that stood proud of the planking a bit to rest your beams on.  Builder's choice...

 

[scrubbyj427]

Beautiful work Chuck! How are you getting the beams in with that Plank above the clamp? Carefully bending them into the notches?

JJ

[Chuck]

Its not difficult.  The hull flexes a bit initially.  You dont need much.  As long as the beams arent cut too long it a piece of cake.  They slip right in and dont move…a good fit actually.  Having said that...for those who might have some trouble, you can absolutely add another layer.  Adding another strip of say 1/8 x 1/32 cedar following the bottom of the notches would be fine.  I did not find the need to do that however.

[scrubbyj427]

Looks really good.

[bdgiantman2]

Your progress on this model is incredible, great detailing throughout this ship! Speedwell is definitely being done justice.  I only hope I can make a model half as good as I progress along.

 

Brian D

[KennyH78]

Looking great Chuck!  She is going to be conversation starter for sure when on display.  

[Stuntflyer]

Beautiful work as always! It's seems to be coming together so quickly.

[Chuck]

Thanks Mike.   I am working on it a lot lately.   Mostly because I lack the wood to make many parts that are now out of stock.  So as I get more I will be busy with inventory.  So while I wait...

 

I managed to get the transom beam in position.  Much like the Winchelsea, it was made in layers to simplify it.  These are all laser cut.  But slightly longer than needed just in case.  They were pre-bent in a jig set up.  This is crucial.  I used some scrap 3/16 x 3/16 wood under the center to bend it.  I just clamped the end and then blasted it with the hair dryer on super hot.  Note the wood scraps on the ends too.  This protects the ends from denting and other damage.  All of the layers are done like this.  Using the 3/16" x 3/16 strip makes the perfect bend we need..

 

 

Testing it in place. Layer one.  Not glued in yet.  but pretty tight.

 

Then repeat with layer two on top.  No need to bevel the back edge.  Just slide it against the stern frames.  Then glue the top layer onto the bottom one while on the model.  I found that helpful.  You will be able to remove the whole thing because the bottom layer isnt glued in.   This way you can sand it a bit if needed and clean it up.

 

Testing the transom beam with the other six.   They should be the same height and a test with a strip of wood confirms this.  The deck planking will lay nicely on top.

 

To finish off the transom beam, you can glue the final 3/64" thick layer on the top.  This one will show so take your time cleaning it up.   The back side was beveled to sit flash against the stern frames.  The same was done on each end against the bulwarks so I got a tight fit.  One of the red arrows shows this top layer.  Note that it is narrower and leaves a nice rabbet on the forward side to accept the qdeck planking.

 

The other red arrow shows a laser cut filler on the 3/64" thick.  This is glued to the bulwarks and will be important in the next step.

 

And finally...the iron straps are added.  These are laser cut on black laser board.  Each iron strap is in two pieces.  One on the beam and the other curved section on the deck clamp.  These will hardly be seen.  In fact I think they are mostly covered later...what a pity.

 

Next up was the planked inboard side of the transom.  This is laser cut in one piece with etched lines to show the planking.  Just bevel the sides for a tight fit.  Also bevel the bottom edge as well.  This was actually pre-bent in that same jig set up to establish the curve.  It worked great.   Use the 3/16" x 3/16" strip in the center like before.  Once I got a tight fit I removed it and painted it red before gluing it in permanently. This helps me keep a crisp edge on the bottom with no sloppy paintwork.  Then glue it in...

 

The top of this area was prepared next.  It is laser cut in a way that the grain makes it super easy to bend.  So no jigs are needed.  In fact be careful as it is delicate.  The top is done in two halves.  I have given folks and extra set just in case.  There are notched for the stern frames.  They are laser cut smaller than needed so you will need to enlarge them to fit tightly around the stern frames.   The back edge was also beveled so it fit nice and tight.

 

Then repeat with the other side.  Note how the top is flush or nearly flush with the cap rail.

Then a front mold piece finished it all up.  Sanded to fit tightly and all prepared for painting.  It is also 3/64" thick.

 

 

Then its all painted and cleaned up...once the paint work is tidied up, this really finishes off the inboard side of the transom well.

 

 

Next up I remove those six qdeck beams once again and start work on the locker benches and rudder trunk.

[scrubbyj427]

Very nice Chuck. Are you using a different red than what was used on Winnie? Looks a bit more burnt.

[BANYAN]

Those laser cut 'ironwork' pieces look very authentic Chuck, that is so nicely done.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Chuck]

Yes…i dont want to

go too bright this time.  Its the same red but then toned down with a thin wash on top.  Of Burnt umber actually.  It gives it a bit of character.  I want to try something new…a bright shiny perfect model is starting to look a bit sterile to my eyes lately.  So I am working the surface a bit.  We shall see if it succeeds or fails miserably.   Once the hull is almost complete I will

do the same all over to establish the look I am shooting for.  I am somewhat inspired by the crustiness and grime on the contemporary model.

 

[Chuck]

I have completed the bench lockers and rudder trunk.  This finishes up the inboard side of the transom nicely I think.   I have taken many step by step photos but rather than go through the whole process here are some pictures.

 

Its pretty self explanatory actually.

 

The panels are made in two layers of .025 Yellow Cedar for the benches and rudder trunk.  Then its just a matter of shaping them to fit snug and neat in position.  You want a tight fir against the planked sides of the cabin.  

Small lengths of 24 gauge black wire was use for the benchtop lids.   Some laser etching showed where they go.  To finish it all up I added that aft-most beam permanently and also the framed for the rudder.  Everything s laser cut for you...even the planking for the inside portion of the counter.  The sides of the rudder trunk panels were beveled so they could be fit together with a tight mitered seam between them.  I have not added wipe on poly yet.  I want to do a bit of clean up and repainting where thing got scuffed up a bit.  But I expect it will clean up OK.  And I have already cleaned the inside of the windows as well.   It will get harder to do that now that this detail was completed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Rustyj]

Wonderful work. So sharp and clean looking!

[Chuck]

Oh and I almost forgot...I am sooo close to completing the first dozen chapter sets of parts.   I am guessing a couple of weeks at best.   The printed plans for those chapters have arrived and I only have a few more sets of parts to laser cut.

 

Chuck

[No Idea]

That is perfection Chuck such amazing work 

[scrubbyj427]

Exquisite work Chuck.  

[Stuntflyer]

Looking so nice, Chuck. A whole new look for Speedwell.

[Freebird]

Fabulous work Chuck!

 

Best Regards .... Rick

 

Edited February 29 by Freebird

[yvesvidal]

I am wondering what was stored exactly in these bench lockers? They probably were only accessible by officers.

 

Yves

[Trussben]

I love your design process for those Lockers and rudder trunk, I have to remember that when I do those for Pegasus.