Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF

[Mike Y]

You are likely experimenting with us and some of these "photos" are actually 3D renders. The colour scheme is very similar to the Swan 3D model  

[Innisfree]

Mike,

I think what Mike Y was saying is that your work is so clean, so neat, and so precise, that your work appears almost computer generated.  The coloration of your construction approaches near computer-perfect tones. I believe Mike Y is *jokingly* wondering if you might be trying to pass off computer-generated work as the real thing. 😁

All joking aside, your joinery and precision are a master class on the subject. Well done, sir. 

 

Jack

[Mike Y]

Hmm, yes, I thought the joke is obvious, sincere apologies  if it was not...

It is really incredibly clean and precise, a completely different level and something to strive for!

[hamilton]

Loving your work on this Mike! How do you keep your model so clean?

hamilton

[Stuntflyer]

Hamilton, thank you for the compliment!

I think the most important thing you can do in order to build a clean ship is to work slowly and methodically. Use the right tools and treat each part as a project in itself. Do-overs are part of the hobby and there is so much to learn when doing them. So, don't settle for mediocrity. Try to get neat and tight fits when adding parts to the ship. Keep the work surface and hands clean.

 

Think about how you want to approach each project before you start and you will get a much better result.

Mike

[scrubbyj427]

Beautiful work Mike! She’s coming along nicely!

 

JJ

[Stuntflyer]

Riding bitts

Making these turned out to be an interesting project. The basic shape for the pins and cross piece was taken from the plan drawings. The bevel on the ends of each piece was made by hand turning the disc sander set at 45°. Instead of using a file to shape the thin step beyond the bevel I simply added 1/64" caps made from strip wood.

To shape the round offs for these pieces I wrapped some 180 grit sticky backed sandpaper around a pencil which was then turned in the drill press for shaping. 

Mike

Edited September 18 by Stuntflyer

[Rustyj]

On 9/2/2024 at 4:21 PM, Stuntflyer said:

To shape the round offs for these pieces I wrapped some 180 grit sticky backed sandpaper around a pencil which was then turned in the drill press for shaping. 

Another creative idea that I'll store away. Thanks!

[Stuntflyer]

Lower platforms (aft)

I've been held up a bit in getting these completed due to some mohs surgery on my neck and face. Thankfully, the doctors got it all and it's healing quickly.

 

I did these platforms the same way as the fore platforms. The angles of the beams are a bit trickier, especially the ones further aft. As usual I used spacers between the carlings which were removed after the carlings were glued in. All of this will be covered by the platforms, but if they showed I would definitely mortise them.

Making the foremost aft platform proved to be an interesting project. This was done in sections moving from the center out. Tricky but lots of fun to make.

I ended up using Chuck's laser cut mast coat rather than doing it from scratch. Just wasn't in the mood for the inevitable re-dos.

Mike

[Erik W]

Mike, I appreciate your super clean planking.  It's always been an inspiration for me.

 

Good luck healing from the Mohs.  The worst is behind you.  I've had a few skin cancer surgeries, including Mohs.  It's never fun, but always a relief to have the problem removed.

 

Erik

[Stuntflyer]

Thanks Erik!

[Stuntflyer]

The great cabin

I started with the deck clamps. I made them identical by sandwiching two wide 3/64" strips together and then milling the notches. There is some tapering needed where the clamp meets the window which changes the length slightly. So, once the first one was installed I was able to measure off of that one in order to insure that the second one mirrored it. The bottom of the aft most notch is slightly higher than the top of the window.

Mike

[Stuntflyer]

Planking the inboard sides of the cabin took more time than expected. It's wasn't as simple as just cutting tapered planks and placing them onto the hull. The curvature of the hull and twisting of the planks changes the way these all fit together. This is especially true of the lower three strakes. Some additional shaping was necessary in order to get good butt joints. I think I will paint the inside of the window framing to even out the colors a bit. Otherwise, I think I'm good to go.

Mike

[AnobiumPunctatum]

You show a really clean execution of your build. I simply love it.

[Stuntflyer]

I finished the quarterdeck beams using the ones from Chuck. Other than having to enlarge a few bulwark cutouts, it went smoothly. I scratched the transom beam which is made in two layers. It was adjusted in thickness in order to get a smooth run of planks. To do that I made the top 1/32" thick rather than 1/16". None of the beams are glued in except for the transom beam. The deck has a curved sweep. When I push down on the plank it sits flush with all the beams.

Mike

[Chuck]

Looks great Mike.  

[Stuntflyer]

If you take a Look at the photos in my last post you should be able to see where the cedar transom template had split in a few places. There are actually four cracks overall and were probably caused by my rough handling here and there. They have all been glued back together but remain problematic when prepping for the red paint work ahead. I decided to cover it up with a .010" boxwood veneer made in three parts. I'm very happy with the result and the transom is much stronger than before.

 

I made the inboard transom planking in two parts from 1/32" boxwood. I went with thinner wood which leaves the whole piece flexible enough to conform to the curve of the transom without placing to much stress on the butt joint. I won't glue it in until after it is painted. I also added the margin strip for the quarter deck planking.

Mike