Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper

[amateur]

I was a bit surprised to see that the stay is attached to the top, and not to the mast itself. I always thought taht the more modern shipsfollowed the old-time practice to use a collar around the masttop for the stays.

Learned something new today

Jan

[michael mott]

Wefalck Thank you for the explanation, what you say makes sense, now I understand.

 

Michael

[BANYAN]

Great to see another update Ed; have been missing this wonderful example of model engineering   

 

Is your rule of thumb about seizings based on a real life rule you found?  It does make a lot of sense.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[stm]

Michael and Wefalck that was an excellent question and answer concerning the reason for ropes being sized by circumference. I never new what the reason was and found this to be an interesting take and observation on an important detail in ship construction. Bill Crothers would always included the rope circumference on his plans which was always most useful. Thanks again for your inputs.

 

Scott

 

[EdT]

Thanks for the comments and thank you for your explanation wefalck.  Measuring rope by circumference is as old a ships, I believe.  Certainly all the rigging tables from earliest times adopt the method, so that one becomes used to it.  I believe it would have been most convenient for early riggers and others to measure a rope with a length of string - perhaps knotted at intervals.  The use of even crude calipers would be unusual and certainly not as convenient as a length of string in one's pocket.  I measure rope diameter using digital calipers over a length of 10 tightly wrapped turns of rope on a dowel, then divide by 10 and multiply by 3.14 and then 72 to get rope size - or reverse the process to get the desired model size..  A calculator is a frequently used tool in the shop for this and many other tasks.

 

Pat, I have not found - or looked very hard - for actual real life specs for the number of seizings.  Based on various diagrams and drawings, my made-up rule seems reasonable.  I wanted some guideline to follow for this - and to provide for future readers - and this seemed reasonable - and hopefully not controversial.  So, the big 11" stays have four, the 8" stays in the post three, and for small lines a minimum of two - or perhaps an overhand slip knot with one.

 

Ed

[dvm27]

You mean you guys don't have the famous Rig Wright? It converts circumference to diameter and scale diameter in four different scales by rotating the dial.

 

[EdT]

Too complicated for me, Greg.  Reminds me of the circular slide rule I always carried in my shirt pocket 50 years ago - before going digital.

 

Ed

[rtwpsom2]

I usually make a scale spreadsheet.  You can see the one I am starting here for 48th scale. I can do multiple sizes in scale very quickly, including rope dia to scale rope size.  It's the third set of columns with the first being inches to scale inches and mm's and the second being feet to scale inches and mm's.  It's also good for storing miscellaneous info about your project.

[BANYAN]

Ah, another form of a 'prayer wheel' (bent over using them as in saying prayers) - Interesting concept but all overtaken with calculators and the like these days

[EdT]

I use a simple method for quickly selecting the correct rope size, which in my case is specified on the rigging list in the actual (inches circumference) for each line, lanyard, pendant, etc.  Once the right size model rope is assigned - either made rope or right off the thread spool for small lines - the model rope is dyed (black or hemp) and put on spools marked with the actual rope size.  All the calcs, spreadsheets and tables were done once.   I'll put a picture in the next post.

 

Ed

[Kevin]

Lovely to see another update

 

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 293 – Fore Topgallant Mast

 

Work continues to go slowly this summer.  Much of it is repetitive, so there is not always something new to report.  After the last post there were some interesting comments on rope sizing, so I included a couple pictures of things I use to simplify the selection and sizing process.  The fist photo shows a table – an Excel spreadsheet actually – that tabulates 1:72 scale rope sizes and makeup.

 

 

I generally use linen for standing rigging because it stretches less and is stronger than the cotton I use for most of the running rigging - and occasionally for some standing lines.  The left table is for standing and the right for running.  Green indicates linen and yellow for cotton.  The left column on each table is rope size

(actual circumference in inches).  Next to the right is its 1:72 diameter, then the thread makeup for each size showing number of threads and thread designation, then the diameter of the model rope.  The last column is a rough count of lines for each size, but this is not used much.  Line is made on an as-needed basis.  Creating this table involved making rope from different thread combinations, measuring the rope and then assigning sizes and creating the tables.

 

The next picture shows line on spools marked with rope size and makeup.  Rope is put on these spools after dyeing and de-fuzzing.

 

 

There are two sets of spools, - one for standing and one for running.  Sizing is not always precise, so some judgement is applied when selecting rope.  This all involved a lot of work up front, but once done selection is quick and easy.

 

So, back to the work.  The first picture shows the overall state of the model at the time of this post.

 

 

In the picture the three lowest yards have been installed and mostly rigged on the main and fore masts.  The fore topgallant mast has been permanently set and the upper main and mizzen masts are temporarily placed.

 

The next picture shows the fore topgallant mast just before lowering to its final position.

 

 

Iron plates under the fid were slipped in and glued with some CA just before lowering the mast on to the trestletrees.  In the next picture the mast is set and the starboard shrouds have been fitted.

 

 

The lanyards are left loose for final tensioning.  At this stage, with the fid installed, the standing lifts for the upper topsail yard could be rigged.  The picture shows eye splices on these shackled to the fid eyes on either side.  Fid shackles were discussed in an earlier post.  The next picture shows the fastening of the lift at the starboard yardarm.

 

 

I am securing these to the upper eyes on the yardarm band with hooks on eye splices – a common method that probably preceded shackles.  I am using both methods, reflecting a likely evolution in practice at the time.  These could also be shackled.

 

Standing lifts were used on all yards above the lower topsails.  Lower yards had topping lifts and the lower topsail yards had no lifts.  When under sail, with the yards raised, the standing lifts draped loosely behind the yard.  On the model, all yards will be lowered with the lifts taut, as would be normal in port, with no sails set.

 

The last picture shows some corrective work involving threading the topgallant stay under the already installed shrouds – the result of a small oversight in fitting the shrouds first.

 

 

For some reason, the forward stays on the topgallant masts were the first lines to go over the masthead, unlike on the masts below, where they go over last.   I had the correct order in my rigging list, but overlooked it.  So, in the above picture, the stay was threaded under the already installed shrouds.  I will cover the installation of this line and the topgallant backstays in the next part.

 

Ed

[druxey]

Nice progress and a  good save, Ed! I wonder why the TG stays were rigged first?

[BANYAN]

Slow but high quality progress Ed; I very much enjoy seeing your masterful work - it continues to keep me enthused with my build (which at the moment is more like a chore than fun but i will work through it :))

 

cheers

 

Pat

[EdT]

Thank you, Druxey and Pat and to those who "reacted" with a like.

 

So, Druxey, the short answer to your question is - I don't know.  But, as usual, there is more.  My usual 19th century sources , Luce, 1868 and Murphy and Jeffers, 1849, are clear that the forward tg stay goes over first, but without explanation.  The latter of these as well as Underhill, who agrees, describe the stay with an eye splice to fit over a masthead strop on a pole mast.  Since I am modeling the masts per Webb's original plan, that is, stepped up to the royals, the eye splice is probably not appropriate.  Crothers shows a seized collar like the lower stays on his plan, which follows Webb's stepped upper masts.  I have adopted this method with the stay going on first.  One could debate the order on this arrangement, but that is the choice I made.  I wrote up the rigging notes based on that, then overlooked them in my haste to get on - typical, but an easy fix.

 

Pat, I agree that some rigging tasks are chore-like, for example ratlines, or making rope coils, but others can be quite interesting, especially if you think of each line from an operational view.

 

Cheers, everyone.

 

Ed

[Forlani daniel]

Hi Ed, I saw all your work, compliments of excellent workmanship, the winch is wonderful and not only that.

A greeting

 

[EdT]

Thank you, Daniel.  It is a pleasure to hear from beautiful Bergamo that I have visited a number of times when on business in Mozzanica.  I am reminded of it whenever I open a bottle of San Pellegrino.

 

Cheers,

 

Ed

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 294 – Flying Jib Stay

 

In the last post, I mentioned that I had gotten out of sequence by installing the fore topgallant shrouds before the forward stay – also known as the flying jib stay – so this had to be slipped under the two pairs of shrouds.  In the first picture the seizing on the stay collar have been put on but not yet trimmed. 

 

 

 

 

Both the upper and lower ends of this 5" stay are served.  When the diluted glue on the seizings and short served end has dried, the excess rope will be clipped off.  At the lower end the stay passes through a sheave in the flying jibboom as shown in the next picture.

 

 

 The serving extends from above the boom over the entire remainder of the stay.  The stay then passes through the lower cleat on the port side of the martingale as shown in the next picture.

 

Finally the end is secured with seizings to a shackled eyebolt in the hull – just below the flag in the next picture. 

 

 

Again, the loose ends will be clipped off later.

 

As its name implies, the stay supports the flying jib.  The next picture shows running rigging for this sail tied off to the lower end of the stay.

 

 

The jib halyard passes through the block shackled and tied to the stay in this picture.  The downhauler is attached to the shackle, passes through a block hooked to an eyebolt on the spar and then runs back to belay on the forecastle pin rail.

 

The shackle shown in the picture is tied off temporarily to the stay.  When the flying jib is bent, this shackle, with both lines, would be connected to the head cringle on the jib.  The tack cringle at the lower end would be made fast to the lower stay.  Hanks would be placed along the luff of the sail, connecting it to the stay.  The jib could then be hauled up with the halyard and back down by the downhauler.  At the upper end of the stay the halyard passes through a block lashed to the stay as shown in the next picture.

 

 

The standing part of the halyard may be seen tied off to the stay below the serving in this picture.  From the block shown, the line runs down along the mast to the foremast fife rail, most likely making this 2½" rope the longest in the ship.

 

The last picture shows the model with the stay and flying jib rigging installed.

 

 

The topgallant backstays may also be seen in the picture.  I will describe those in the next post.

 

Ed

[Mahuna]

Amazing work on the rigging, Ed.  I'd love to see your planning details on this work.  I just finished putting together the rigging plan for the simple fore and aft rig for Kathryn and it got a little complicated.  Can't imagine how long it took to develop your plans.

[paulsutcliffe]

Beautiful work ed

[BANYAN]

Stunning detail on the rigging Ed; I have to keep reminding myself this is 1:72.

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited August 20, 2018 by BANYAN

[stm]

Ed I am in the process of revising the way I stain running rigging and wanted your input.  I am having difficulty finding where this was discussed in the past. Would you please identify the Part number where this is posted or the page number where this information can be found in the books that you published.  Thank you so very much.

 

Scott

[EdT]

Thanks for all these comments and likes - very much appreciated.  Let me address some comments.

 

Frank, there seems to be as much planning and preparation as there is actual work.  All should be revealed if I can manage to complete the model and get Volume III written.  The short version is that a very detailed "rigging list"is the heart of the process.  There are far too many lines to show on a large drawing or even more than one.  The 21 page list contains all details of each line including routing.  Line numbers on the list are also placed on detailed drawings of all spars, structures and on a belaying plan.  There are around 350 line numbers, many representing multiple lines - like shrouds (6 pr/line no.) or bunt lines (2 pr/line no.).  Some lines like halyards are part chain, part rope and part wire.  Many lines have multiple parts - eg. pendant+tackle+fall.  The list will of course be part of the book.  I prepared the list and related information based on contemporary data from several 19th century sources, Underhill's book, Crothers YA plan.  The list should be applicable to most ships of this class.

 

Pat, I suppose that small scale rigging - like most modeling - involves compromise in level of detail.  Shortcuts acceptable at 1:72 would not look good at 1:48 or 1:32.  Those scales require much more meticulous modeling of each component - not my forte.

 

Scott, in these posts I  did not say much beyond a brief comment about making or staining rope.  I stain running rigging (hemp color) with a walnut extract stain, diluted to the desired color.  This non-fading, water soluble stain was made using "Van Dyke" crystals made from natural walnut extract.  After making and stretching the cotton or linen rope - or just using cotton thread on small lines - I drag the line through a container of stain and hang it up straight to dry.  When dry, I de-fuzz it through the flame of an alcohol burner - two passes, then wind it onto a spool.  Same for standing except substitute diluted India Ink.

 

Ed

[Maury S]

Quote

Shortcuts acceptable at 1:72 would not look good at 1:48 or 1:32.  Those scales require much more meticulous modeling of each component - not my forte.

 

Meticulous modeling, ...not my forte...RIGHT!😉

[Tigersteve]

Ed, you are doing an extraordinary job! Volume 3 is much anticipated for all of us following this amazing project. 

Steve

[BANYAN]

Thanks Ed, I look forward to Vol III - actually I can't wait) no pressure    Appreciate all the sharing of information here.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 295 – Topgallant Backstays

 

Progress continues to be sporadic as the summer wanes and other unfinished items on the season's household do-list demand attention.  I am down to an average of an hour or so a day on the model this month, so there have been fewer posts.  This one is short, showing only the fore topgallant backstays mentioned in the last post.  The first picture shows the two lines installed with white arrows pointing them out in an increasingly dense array of rigging.

 

 

The two 7" stays go over the masthead after the shrouds - as is normal.  They are guided through cleats on the iron spreaders that extend aft from the topmast crosstrees.  The next picture shows the spreaders with the backstays threaded through.

 

 

The stays were leathered in the way of the spreader cleats to reduce wear.  The next picture shows this simulated with brown acrylic paint.

 

 

I expect to finally straighten the metal spreaders as the three sets of backstays are rigged.  The stays should help prevent bending, which up to now has been a problem.  Note that the topgallant shroud lanyards remain loose pending final tensioning of all the topgallant standing rigging.  This is also apparent in the last photo showing the deadeye/lanyard arrangement on the starboard channel.

 

 

The two remaining smaller deadeyes on this channel will support the royal and skysail backstays. 

 

Other current work includes some upper yard fabrication as well as fitting out and rigging of the mizzen lower yard – the crojack.  That will be described in the next post.

 

Ed

[BANYAN]

An hour or two per day has served you well Ed (no pun intended); the rigging looks great

 

cheers

 

Pat

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 296 – Crojack Yard 1

 

The lower mizzen sail was a late development, but common on the fast clippers.  Its unique name, crossjack, more commonly "crojack", pronounced "crojick", was devised to distinguish it from the lateen yard of earlier days, previously called the mizzen yard.  The term crossjack may have derived from the run of its braces.  These ran forward toward the center in a V to pendants on the mainmast – rather than aft to belay at the sides.  Other than that, the yard is much like the other two lower yards.  The first picture shows the yard with its bare copper banding and part of the truss assembly installed.

 

 

Since the mizzen carried no studding sails, this yard had no boom irons – a welcome omission to the modeler weary of making these complex metal fittings.  The next picture shows the yard temporarily mounted by its truss.

 

 

Once returned to the bench, the jackstay stanchions, 28 gauge copper wire eyebolts, were pushed into the holes atop the yard.  Before blackening all this copper, holes for the various eye bolts were center-marked and drilled.

 

 

Drilling the small yardarm bands requires care, since each has three holes.  In the next picture the ironwork has been blacked, the jackstays slipped in and the yard again mounted temporarily.

 

 

Blackening of the ironwork, using liver of sulfur solution while rinsing the yard under running water was discussed earlier.  The next picture gives a better view of the truss.

 

 

With the mounting shown above, the length of the length of the chain sling assembly may be measured and the hole for the mast eyebolt drilled.  The sling assembly consists of a yard eyebolt, a shackle, chain and a mast eyebolt.  In the next picture, this assembly plus other rigging has been added to the yard.

 

 

The standing rigging on these lower yards consists of the chain sling and the 4½" footropes with their 4" stirrups.  The topping lift pendants and one of the reef tackle blocks suspended from the yardarms may be seen in this picture.  Less visible, but also present, are the chain sheets for the lower topsail yard and the central iron sheet block.  Before setting this yard, blocks for all the running rigging will be added – next post.

 

Ed

[druxey]

Thank you for this continuing master class, Ed!