HMS Victory by gil middleton - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:72

[popeye the sailor]

good to see you back at the table.........very nice work indeed! 

[augie]

Beautiful work Gil.

 

Have you ever considered using 'shrink' electrical wire insulation for iron bands?  It comes in a wide variety of sizes and accepts paint well. 

[gil middleton]

Thanks John and Popeye,  You do keep us on our toes.

Mark and Daniel,  The so called "tutorial"  is really pretty simple stuff, but it may help avoid a lot of frustration for a few of our newer members. And look what it brought out.  Kevin's preformed styrene tube and Augie's electric wire shrink wrap. Two great ideas. I work with shrink wrap all the time on our real boat, but never thought to make the connection.

I don't think we ever get off the learning curve.  Cheers, Gil

[capnharv2]

Gil,

 

Good pun on "making the connection with electrical shrink wrap"

Harvey

[gil middleton]

Harvey, Your sense of humor is as warped as mine.  But on with the ForeTopgallant Yard.

Rigging the foot rope.  Shaping the foot rope with fast c/a appleid  to spaces between the clips. Clips then moved to areas with c/a and fast c/a again applied between clips.

 

 

Topping lift block,brace block and foot rope

 

 

 

[gil middleton]

Continuing with the Fore Topgallant Yard.  Pin to fix yard to mast (with 5-15 second c/a) to fascilitate tensioning rigging.

 

 

Topgallant Tye and parrell.

 

 

Parrell.  Coated with flat acrylic clear.

 

 

Yard in place.

 

 

Parrell

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jim Lad]

She's really coming along there, Gil!  Good work, mate!

 

John

[popeye the sailor]

nice to see the yards up Gil..........super ........simply supper! 

[petervisser]

Thanks for all the detailed posts and pictures Gil. Plenty of great tips and tricks for all of us!

 

Peter

[Mecheleir]

Damn,thats the real work....just keep it up sir...it's really nice

[ZyXuz]

very nice work on the spars, Gil

[Dan Vadas]

I plan to organize the new build log according to the following index.  I may need some help in indexing the posts.

 

 

Take a look at Post #1 again Gil   .

 

  Danny

[gjdale]

Very nice Gil.

 

And thanks Danny for the index - very useful for those of who use Gil's log as a reference!

[Kevin]

Very nice Gil.

 

And thanks Danny for the index - very useful for those of who use Gil's log as a reference!

you mean everyone then 

[gil middleton]

Danny,  What can I say?  I would never have presumed to ask you to do my job. You must have sensed a Computer Challenged old guy across the pond who is perhaps better at tying knots than wrestling with a computer. For those of you who hadn't seen Danny's modest post:

 

HE ADDED PAGE LINKS TO EACH CATEGORY OF CONTENT ON THE FIRST PAGE OF THE LOG.  An extraordinary kindness.

 

I had planned to do that (as soon as I learned how).  My sincere thanks Danny.'

 

I'll reply to our other friends shortly but Danny's post warranted a singular reply.  Gil

  

[gil middleton]

Thank you all.  I'm even more amazed at this website after Danny's kind gesture.  John and Popeye,  You touch on so many build sites, how do you get any work done on your own builds?  Peter,  We still plan to stop at Shearwater on our boat next summer.  Can you organize a national model builders convention at the Coast Guard Station by that time?  At least two of us will show up.  Mechelier and ZyXuz, nice to have you on the site.  Grant, the content links will help me too when looking back to see what I did.  Kevin and Lawrence, two more old friends to kibitz with.  Cheers, Gil

[gil middleton]

This post is made thanks to Mark Taylor. I ran into trouble, unable to post photos when my IE 9 was upraged to IE 11.  Mark's note on posting caught my attention.  Then Joe (Wacko Wolf) noted that photos uploaded if one used Firefox.  I now post  using Firefox with no problem.  As most of you know, one can enlarge the photo by double clicking. Thanks Mark and Joe.

 

Still on the topgallant yard, the topgallant tye runs up and through the mast to a double block at the level of the topmast cap.  The tackle beginning at the fore top terminates with the falls extending to the Main top bowline bitts.

 

 

Next up, Clue lines.  The braces will be put off to later.  It's amazing how easily elbows, fingers, instruments, watches etc. get tangled in the rigging.  Oops! I generaly work with bare arms and slowly.

 

Cheers, Gil

 

 

 

 

[Dan Vadas]

Hi Gil,

 

I saw the little bit about "I may need some help with the links .... " in your first post, and thought I may as well do it myself - took about 20 minutes (the slowest part was finding the actual posts - my Internet connection is having it's "time of the month" due to excessive downloading and is running as slow as a wet week for another day or so ).

 

No worries - I was waiting for glue to dry anyway .

 

BTW - I've just added a new Topic in "Questions/Instructions on how to use this Forum" - How to Add a Link into a Post . It will come in useful for you as your Build Log progresses.

 

  Danny

[edmay]

Hello Sir,Your build is inspiringly awesome,one of the neatest that I have seen,the tutorial value of your picture relationship will be invaluable to many modelers whatever they are building,the methods used,vibrance of colors,even your work area is enlightening.I also did some sailing between Kiel(GER) and Denmark,Also from west to east through the Locks of Scotland,up the east coast,down the west to Glasgow,there"s nothing nicer than sailing at 6/7 knots in silence,enjoy your future trips. ,It"s ironic,I sailed on a 36 ft Nicholson whose name was Tyrovic,an anagram of Victory,many thanks Edwin.

[gil middleton]

Danny, Thanks for the instructions on adding links to a post.  I've printed them and no longer have excuses.  You are gradually dragging me from the dark ages. 

Lawrence, you're already underway with great looking deadeyes.

Edwin,  Many thanks. I'm envious. We never made it to Europe on the boat, but did transit the Panama Canal and travelled the east coast, Erie Canal, Great Lakes and rivers, Caribbean and South America.  AND we've been to Port Alberni by car and by boat. Next time we'll track you down.

Cheers, Gil

[gil middleton]

Finally finishing the Fore topgallant yard

 

 

Clueline and clueline block

 

 

Clueline and clue block with strop spliced to fore topgallant sheet, which leads to cheek block at outer aft end of the yard.

 

 

Topping lift to outer block on yard.  Topgallant sheet to cheek block on aft side of the yard.  Cheek block made by contour sanding the block to fit the aft side of the yard and further sanding to thin the block.

 

 

Sheet  to central yard block and then down to shroud cleat.

 

 

At the origin of the topping lift on the topgallant mast, I passed a small wire through the mast to act as a stopper.  The lift after passing through blocks at the end of the yard and the mast, passes down to a shroud strop at the fore top. I used the topmast shroud strop

 

 

Clueline to aft block at the topmast top and then down to a shroud cleat.

 

 

Next stop, the Main topgallant yard which is rigged much the same as the Fore topgallant yard.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[DBorgens]

Gil,

Your Victory continues to amaze me. Shows how much I have to learn. Your log is another practicum for us mortals, thank you for the photos and posts.

 

Dave B

[fnkershner]

I suggest we have our next PSSM meeting at Gil's condo so that we can see the wonderful work in person! All in favor?

Edited November 21, 2013 by Floyd Kershner

[popeye the sailor]

such beautiful work Gil.......I enjoy seeing your work.......so clean and well done 

[gil middleton]

Thanks Dave, but you still haven't taught me how to make those beautiful miniature metal fittings you made for the "Bluenose."

Popeye, you always seem to find time from you fleet of boats to visit and comment. My compliments.  I haven't learned to multitask.

Floyd, Perhaps a Rigging workshop would fly.  I've sent an e-mail so we can talk about it.

Cheers, Gil

[Ericsfs]

Hi, I am truly grateful for the help derived from Mr. Miiddleton's extremely detailed photo log. Having reached the point of lining the gun ports of my Jotika HMS. VICTORY kit the novel jig for placing the lining is an answer to a prayer - I had managed one row of gun ports by hand, tweezers and exacto knife at the same time managing to drop several pieces of walnut planking into the hull. I cannot aspire to the evident quality of Gil Middleton's handiwork but as a guide to what is possible his log is invaluable. With grateful thanks Ericsfs

[gil middleton]

SERVING LINES

The question has been asked about how to serve shrouds or for that matter, strops for blocks, lifts, or where ever serving is indicated.  One is reminded that the large lines such as shrouds at the top were first wormed (passing smaller line in the crevices between the strands of the larger rope), then parcelled (wrapping with strips of canvas saturared with Stockholm tar) and finally served with a smaller line to protect from chaffing.  The practical limit in modeling is serving, simulating all of the above.

 

Looking back in my log, I notice the tools are shown, but a method for serving is not. Among the different methods, some seem rather complicated.  The following is perhaps one of the simplest.

 

The set up is shown with a serving tool available from "Ship Ahoy Models and Miniatures" held in place by temporary clamps.  A spool of serving thread is on the left.  One might guess that I'm left handed.  For purposes of photography, I used a heavy line, 1.0 mm in diameter, as one might use for shrouds, with a serving line of less than 0.1 mm (Coats and Clark all purpose polyester coated polyester). For smaller lines such as strops for blocks,  0.5 to 0.25 mm, the serving line might be Coats and Clark "fine" polyester or Orvis round fly tying thread #12.. Magnification helps where passing a needle through small lines.

 

 

Measure the length to be served and place that part of the line tightly in the serving tool. If one is serving an entire shroud, the line can be moved until the entire line is served.

 

 

Pass a needle at the starting point

 

 

Thread the needle with the serving line and pass through the larger line.

 

 

Take 15 or 20 turns so that a droplet of fast (1 to 3 sec.) c/a can be applied only to the point where the serving line passes through the larger line.

 

 

Continue to take turns with gentle traction on the serving line to the length of serving desired and repeat passing a needle with the serving line through the larger line. Touch that point with fast c/a.  After about a minute, trim off the extra serving line.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[gil middleton]

Before the c/a has fully cured, use a hemostat or needle driver to mold the end of the serving to hide the end of a thread.

 

 

Sieze the strop or eye, placing the knots carefully since siezing is difficult to slide over served line.  Clue line block, sheet block and tack block. (strops and eyes served).  Clue line block  sheet block and tack block lashed to gether.

 

Edited November 30, 2013 by gil middleton

[Jim Lad]

Some great lessons in rigging there, Gil!

 

John

[mort stoll]

You are the best.

 

Thank you and happy holiday,

Mort