HMS Pegasus 1776 by Trussben - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop based on TFFM

[gjdale]

Looking very good, Ben.  And as for the "messy workarea"... HAH.. that's not what most of us would call "messy".

 

Gotta agree with Mark on this one Ben. That looks like my work area AFTER I've cleaned it up.

[Trussben]

Hi Allan - My plan was to add the ports as I go along ( same way described in TFFM and how Danny did it ), on my Echo I did them afterwards and I had issues getting good joints by fileing the birdsmouths in. Cutting them off the model with a sharp chisel sure does make nicer and tighter joints but I hear what your saying about getting a better run of the ports by doing later, I feel that the aft port is in the right place compared to plans, measured lots of times.

I will have to think about these pros and cons. ( aka - about to send yet another e-mail to my Mentor! ).

 

Thanks everybody else for making me think that maybe I'm not as messy as the Admiral would lead me to believe.

 

The long dreaded bollard timbers are next - I can see a few do-overs in my future with these buggers.

 

ben

[Rustyj]

Hi Ben, very nice workmanship! Hey if you can get it to work cutting notches off the model then well done. Me I

had to do them afterwards to get them straight. Good luck on the bollard timbers! I'm sure you'll do just fine.

[Trussben]

Thanks Rusty, This was the first time I have ever tried to do these notches off the model, seems to have gone ok this time, we will see what happens when it comes to the bridal port which will be the next one I make.

 

ben

[druxey]

From personal experience, I find it far easier to cut the sill scores before erecting the frames. The drawback is that one needs to be exceedingly accurate in the positioning of the frames vertically. If 'off', it will throw the line of the ports out of whack.

 

The reasonable compromise is to temporarily erect the frames, mark the sill line out, take the frames off and then cut the scores to the mark-out. After permanent re-assembly everything should line up perfectly.

 

Small silly point: bridle is the word for the foremost port, as in horse's bridle. Not bridal, as for something belonging to a principal player in the cast of a wedding!

[Trussben]

Hi Druxey,

 

The compromise you mention is exactly the path I intend to follow, seems to have worked ok on the port I have done.

 

As for the miss spelling of "bridle" , I apologise from one English born man to another, unfortunately the spell check on my iPhone is American and auto corrects my queens English lol.

 

Ben

[druxey]

No apology required. Curve - I mean curse - spell-check!

[tlevine]

I cut the sills for the gun ports on Atalanta after all of the frames were erected for fear of having the ports out of alignment.  And overall I am happy with the results.  I was also lucky enough to attend David's and Greg's Echo symposium after the framing was completed.  David showed my how to make the perfect birds-mouth and it looks a lot more refined than my approach.  The next model will be made as Druxey suggested.  The frames that require gun and/or oar ports will me mounted temporarily and the notches cut off the model once all the frames have been erected.

[Trussben]

Thanks for the input Toni.

 

Started on the parts I have feared most up to now, bollard and hawse timbers, pics show what is my first attempt. On advice from my Mentor I will make and temp install the first cant as that is a good reference to use for the angles.

I may well make V2.0 to see if I can get a better fit.

 

Ben

[alangr4]

Looking good Ben.

 

Wonderful workbench and matching vise!

 

I see the chisel but what sort of plane are you using?

 

Alan

[Trussben]

Hi Allan,

 

The workbench and vise are from harbor freight, $140 !!

 

No plane was used, the bollard was cut out of 12" stock and then just a very sharp chisel was used to shape it.

 

Ben

[patrickmil]

Looking great there Ben!

[MEDDO]

Very nice progress.

 

I will have to checkout this Harbor Freight.  I think there might be one near here.

[Trussben]

Thanks Patrick and Michael and all the likes.

 

Michael, there is a harbor freight by Dayton mall on Lyons road, they normally have the benches in stock, look out for coupons on their website, I got the bench for $140 on sale.

There are some good write ups on this site under the tools section stating all of its pros/cons, but for $140 you can't beat it IMO.

 

Ben

[MEDDO]

Thanks Ben I will check it out.

[Trussben]

Temporary installation of forward can't frame commences, I'm finding it difficult to get all angles to match and breadth heights to match, this is the third attempt.

 

Ben

[AON]

You'll need one extra hand, three more temporary supports and a couple extra tall shots of Canadian Club Classic to get this done!

 

All joking aside, it must feel great when something so difficult finally comes together!

[druxey]

I don't think anyone gets this right the first - or even second - time around. Eventually you will nail it, Ben. 

I find that a heavy card square set up on the board aligned with the layout helps a lot.

[dvm27]

As the ever-knowledgeable Druxey suggests, something like this setup works. I use thin ply set up at 90 degrees to the building board (wood triangles glued on back) and a steel square. Place the bottom edge of the wooden angle jig (or card) on the face of the line delineating the fore face of the cant and use the steel square to set the height of breadth. This gives you two points of contact to hold the cant while spot gluing in place. Once it's set you might even drill for the treenails. This way you can easily re-position it later on.

[alangr4]

 

Thanks Ben, Greg and Druxey

 

This is a really handy tip.

 

My side of the brain would not have thought of that in a million years!

 

Alan

[SawdustDave]

Very nice work Ben. I've never attempted a POF....looks pretty intimidating. Looking forward to seeing this project develop.

[AON]

Once again a picture is worth one thousand words!

[augie]

Hang in there buddy!

[gjdale]

That's a very handy tip and your photo Ben, makes it that much clearer for those of us who are "spatially challenged"!

[allanyed]

Atta Boy Ben!

 

Druxey convinced me to try stiff card stock and illustration board a long time ago.  It is cheap and easy to cut into pieces and make into a variety of jig fixtures.  Ply works as well of course, but more costly and needs more than scissors to cut.  Then again, plywood is likely to last longer for future use. 

 

Allan

[druxey]

Card, ply; it doesn't matter which material the square is made from. The important thing is that it's not made of metal, so that if it falls over on the model it won't damage it.

[Trussben]

Hi and thanks for all the likes and tips, got home this afternoon after being away all week and went down to the workshop And made up two plywood squares as per all the advice, they are currently drying and it will be using them tomorrow to try and set up the cants for the 4th time, hopefully they will help a lot.

 

Ben

[Trussben]

So here are my framing squares completed, I decided to add pins to the back so I can secure it in position to the build board without fear of losing it's place, now they can be repositioned back in the exact same place.

I then held them up to the plan and marked the horizontal lines of the breadth lines, then they were fitted back to board and the vertical line of the breadth line was marked up to intersect with the horizontal lines, this gives me a perfect crosshair target of where the frame should be.

 

Ben

Edited May 31, 2014 by Trussben

[pete48]

Looks Good Ben

 

Best Regards,

Pete

[Trussben]

Thanks Pete and all the likes.

Also started rough fairing of the aft internal framing. Pics are before and after.

 

Ben

Edited May 31, 2014 by Trussben