HMS Pegasus 1776 by Trussben - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop based on TFFM

[tlevine]

I kept wondering why I did not have your problem with Atalanta.  In Chicago we have wide variations in humidity, even with A/C in the summer.  Then I realized what I did differently.  Because I was planking one side of the hull, I deliberately left off some of the spacers out do allow a little light to enter the lower reaches of the hull.  This picture is from page one of the resurrected build log.

 

  

[Mike Y]

When I had similar issues in my build (humidity drop during the winter), some spacers cracked and some frames twisted - the fix was to unglue the spacers on every 4th frame. So every 8th might not be enough?

[Trussben]

Mike,

 

I'm going to follow Druxeys advice and only glue one side of the floor filler, that way if movement does occur it may make a gap but shouldn't cause the twisting that destroyed my original build.

 

Ben

[dvm27]

I have a section of crown molding in my bedroom that always develops a gap in the winter and disappears in the summer. Is your workshop humidity controlled? Is the humidity the same as where the model will be displayed? If the eventual display area has a higher humidity do you leave a small gap now to allow for cumulative swelling of the hull later on? When I examine the Rogers ship model collection it seems like most of the gaps (besides glue failure) appear along joints influenced by humidity changes over the years.

[druxey]

Something for you contemplate when suffering from insomnia, Greg?

 

There was a discussion earlier in this thread (around #420) on humidity control and seasonal issues.

[dvm27]

Hey, just because it's 80 degrees, the tequilas are non-stop and there's fine dining every evening doesn't absolve me of my mentoring duties while on vacation! Ben's shrinkage is of great concern to me.

[Trussben]

"Ben's shrinkage is of great concern to me"

 

 

Let's not get personal guys, LMAO

[druxey]

You guys are too much! Actually, that is very funny. Greg - please don't post again until you are off the tequilas.

[Trussben]

Yeh Dave,

 

A little Benny Hill descended on us there!

[Trussben]

Another set of eight frames has been completed up to 2-fore, you can see how light the new pear framing is in color compared to the recovered old framing, the floor fillers for this section of framing has only been glued to the fore side of each frame so as to be able to "float" as per druxeys advice.

I am currently sanding and fairing it to match the after side framing.

 

Ben

[Chuck]

That is looking great Ben.....Everything seems back on track.   

[Trussben]

Thanks Chuck,

 

Yeh - 2 years later it's back to where it was.

[BANYAN]

Looks good Ben, will the new timbers gain some colour with age and even out a bit?

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Trussben]

Pat - absolutely they will, all the Swiss pear being used is out of the same master billet of wood I got from Jeff at Hobbymill when he was operating, no finish has touched anything so it is the natural darkening of the wood that is occurring.

 

Ben

[druxey]

Wood will tone down in time, Ben. She is coming back nicely now!

[tlevine]

Looking great, Ben.  It is amazing how these woods change color over time, even with a finish applied.

[dvm27]

Looking great Ben. You'll have her closed in in no time.

[albert]

Great beautiful work Ben.

[Mike Y]

If you do not use any finish - how do you avoid fingerprints that sometimes tend to leave darker (oliy/greasy) spots on the wood?

That natural look is awesome, but is it possible to maintain for a long time?

[druxey]

Mike: frequent hand-washing and cleanliness in the shop are the keys to avoiding fingerprints.

[Trussben]

Mike - I have not used any finish YET, I will be using either sanding sealer for a rough hewn effect, or my normal WOP which I have used on other models. Another part of me wants to try using a oil based finish.

 

Anyway, until the hull is complete, all sanding and fairing complete there will be no finish applied.

 

Ben

[MEDDO]

Ben just caught up and am impressed. Esp with the setback and recovery.

[Trussben]

Hi, it's been a long time since an update due to a very heavy load working away so little modeling time to be had.

Another set of eight frames and a spacer frame have been installed up to B Aft, if you look closely you will see the rough cut out in the A-Frames for the fixed double block, and below the hull you can see the block bodies that have been made out of boxwood to match the hull planking when it's done.

 

The frames are just roughly faired and sanded to 100 grit just like the rest of the hull until hull is closed in.

 

So 16 frames are left to go to fill the gap, hopefully it won't be as long until the next update.

 

ben

[Rustyj]

Very nice work Ben. Glad to see you back at it.

 

Work sucks but does give us the funds to do what we love!

[druxey]

Good to see the hull growing, Ben, even if it is slowly. Don't forget to add the 'ears' on the fixed block later.

[Trussben]

Thanks Rusty and Druxey,

 

what do you mean by ears druxey?

 

ben

[druxey]

See my illustration of a fixed block. I only found this out from the extract of the draught shown a couple of years ago. It makes sense for repair when necessary.

Fixed block rev.psd

[BANYAN]

Slow but great work Ben.  It took me 14 years to complete a model when I was working and not to the quality you are showing.

 

Thanks for that info Druxey (and Chuck) very nice to know this type of detail.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[dvm27]

Looking great Ben. Your ports are lining up very fair. Are you still cutting the sill mortises prior to installing the frames?

[mtaylor]

Super nice work, Ben.  

 

 

Interesting find from Druxey...  learn something new here everyday.