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HMS Pegasus 1776 by Trussben - 1:48 - Swan class sloop based on TFFM


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Hi Kenny,

 

I’m not much of a one for giving other people advice, just take your time and try not to accept something that you know is not right.

Getting the spacing and symmetry correct can be tough if you want a really good result - I can’t count how many times I remade things on the lower platforms and lower deck - but I’m now happy with my results.

 

One thing I’m doing differently from now on is using Black fishing line instead of copper wire and LOS to simulate bolts, much easier and looks better and more consistent to me.

 

ben

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LOS = Liver of Sulphur.

 

What I have comes in small "rocks".

You mix a very small amount in hot water.

The water turns a shade of yellow.

You drop your copper part into it and mix it around for a few seconds, take it out, rinse it off to stop the reaction and your done.

 

The part must be cleaned in soapy water, and rinsed off, and then washed off in (rubbing) alcohol to remove all dirt, grim, oil (finger marks) first.

After the cleaning you handle the part with cleaned tweezers so as not to recontaminate it.

 

There are safer, easier, liquid products that will oxidize the copper.  But the item must still be cleaned.

LOS - 1.jpg

LOS - 2.jpg

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Regarding safer, easier methods of blackening metals...

 

This is a link to the blog page of our local club website.

scroll down to our 13th of January  meeting and Ray describes what and how.

 

https://modelshipwrightsofniagara.weebly.com/blog

 

Regarding fishing line for faux bolts.

I do this also, using black monofilament.  It comes in different diameters so you find one closest to your scale.  It comes in a spool that will likely do your whole build.  I did not invent this but learnt about it here on the forums.

 

I cut off a length (about a foot), rough it up with sand paper so my yellow wood glue will hold (something to grip to), wipe the end and sides in the glue and insert the filament in the predrilled hole.  Then I cut it off with scissors and let it dry.  I go back and cut it flush with a scalpel.   I've tried to remove a couple and it was impossible!

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I decided to do a little work on the exterior, so the new Knee of the Head was made and installed, then final fairing and sanding to 220/400 was completed below the Wales and 1st coat of finish applied ( 50% danish oil / 50% mineral spirits ), the wales took some damage during sanding and will have to be re-dyed later on.

Im quite happy with the color that the Swiss pear has taken on with this type of finish.

Next up - remove the knight heads and fair the top timber line, then proberbly start the stern framing.

 

ben

 

 

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Edited by Trussben
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Hi Pat,

 

yeh - it’s kinda nice to see some coloring on her, I machined some boxwood today that I will use for upper planking, that creamy yellow really looks nice IMO next to that deep red/pink of the Swiss pear and the deep black of the dyed wales.

 

as always - we shall see what next week brings - probably two steps forward and one back as usual.

 

ben

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks for all the likes and comments.

 

I decided to start work on the exterior planking above the wales, the wales themselves were masked off as you can see to try and protect them somewhat.

Im going to try and follow my planking plan as close as the hull allows.

First 3 strakes completed and beginning on the fourth, and it’s quite close to plan so far.

 

ben

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F96A384A-B314-498B-8DDE-0CB3593D2CA1.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...

Work on Pegasus has begun again, the first 4 strakes  above the wales have been installed and now I’m treenailing while I can see the framing positions.

I’m using boxwood for treenail material drawn down to #18 hole on Byrnes plate, and I’m glad that it’s pretty subtle so far.

 

ben

7C2403B9-5929-4CA3-8C3B-2DAD1C815C20.jpeg

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