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gjdale

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Everything posted by gjdale

  1. gjdale
    Lovely work on the rudder Jack.
  2. gjdale
    Great news Kevin (or should that be Buzz? ) I look forward to the next update.
  3. gjdale
    Thank you Mark for taking the time and trouble to share these details with us. I'm shamelessly copying your drawings and filing them for later use!
  4. gjdale
    Beautifully done Mark. Love that scarph jig - do you have any more details (pictures or drawings) of how it is constructed?
  5. gjdale
    Joe, If you search for "HMV card models" you should get plenty of hits. Here's one: http://www.kartonmodellbau.de/en_GB
  6. gjdale
    Hi Boyd, Just paying you a return visit, and glad I did. Looks like you've made a really nice job on the hull planking there. It's always more challenging when you choose a natural timber finish - no chance to hide mistakes under a coat of paint! Keep up the great work.
  7. gjdale
    Some good progress there Leanne - almost there! How do the chooks like their new palace?
  8. gjdale
    Thanks very much for the kind comments Sherry, JesseLee, Ben, Bindy, Mark, John, Keith and Mike. And thanks again to all of the "likes". Ship's Boats continued.... This weekend I tackled the task of making Oarlocks and Splashboards for the Pinnace. The oarlocks were quite tricky. I started with a strip of 3/64" sq Boxwood stock, into which I cut a 1/64" rebate, about 1/64" deep using the Brynes saw : Then I made up a simple jig to use on the Byrnes saw that would enable me to cut a tenon-like leg for each of the oarlocks before separating it by hand from the main stock. Here's what they look like before cleaning up: These were then installed into the Caprail and 1/64" x 1/16" Boxwood strips added for the washboards. I decided to make the bow washboards one continuous strip that was bent around the bow after soaking, and once dry the underside was sanded and shaped to fit the shape of the sheer line. On the real thing, all of the washboards apart from the bow and aft-most ones were removable. I decided to glue mine all in so that they didn't accidentally remove themselves later on. Here they are in place: I should perhaps have painted all of these parts before installing them, but I was worried that the paint would clog up the channels in the oarlocks and make the washboards too hard to fit. So, I had to paint them in situ. I also decided that I wasn't completely happy with the seat back I had made for the Sternsheets (the proportions looked wrong to me), so I decided to make another one. Here are a few pictures of the completed Pinnace (I don't intend to make oars or rudder). To continue my experimentation with photography, this time I've use a mid-blue background so that the black-painted parts don't get lost. Next up, back to the Cutters........
  9. gjdale
    Can't help with a manual, but I thoroughly recommend checking out this video on YouTube. If you search for Alex Snodgrass Bandsaw Clinic, you will find that this video provides all the information you need to set up your bandsaw correctly, regardless of brand. I've pasted a link below, but if it doesn't work, just search in Google and it will come up.
  10. gjdale
    Looks like this will be an interesting build Mike. Think I'll pull up a chair in the front row for this one.
  11. gjdale
    Nice job on those curved rails Danny. And I think a wise choice on leaving the brass au naturale - it seems to suit this model.
  12. gjdale
    Happy Birthday Mark - hope you received lots of modelling goodies for presents.
  13. gjdale
    Impressive table Alan. Looking forward to seeing the playroom extension!
  14. gjdale
    Hi John, A belated Happy Birthday from Downunda. Glad to hear you're enjoying the trip and I look forward to the resumption of your build log in due course. Re your missing pics, yes simply edit the page, delete the old links and re-post the pics.
  15. gjdale
    Now that's impressive Michael! Fancy that - using your entire living room as the display case!
  16. gjdale
    Handy neighbour to have David! I can foresee you spending a bit of time with your new "best friend"!
  17. gjdale
    Nice job on the stove Vince.
  18. gjdale
    Kevin, Don't sell yourself short - your build is of an excellent standard. Wanting always to do better is good - that what keeps us all going for the next model. But wanting to achieve our idea of "perfection" is not so healthy and has the potential to rob us of the joy we find in modelling. Be inspired by others achievements, but don't be intimidated by them. I look forward to resumption of play with your excellent Victory.
  19. gjdale
    Nicely done Bob. Your choice of how much and where for the deck planking is an interesting one. A little bit "unusual" (if there is such a thing), but this will add to the models uniqueness and I'm sure will look terrific. The important thing is that YOU are happy with the decision and you clearly are.
  20. gjdale
    Very nice indeed John.
  21. gjdale
    Sweet! You SHOULD be very pleased with that deck Augie - it looks terrific.
  22. gjdale
    Hi JesseLee, Just been catching up on your log. Some very impressive modifications you've done there - a huge improvement over the kit supplied parts. As for rigging thread, I switched over to using Chuck's thread for most of my Running Rigging (it wasn't available when I did my Standing Rigging) and all I can say is Wow - what a huge difference it is to work with and in final presentation. Well worth the extra investment, so keep sucking up to the Admiral until she caves and agrees to release funds! It's also worthwhile doing a bit of extra research to work out the various diameters needed for your scale. Using an appropriate variety really adds to the overall appearance. Hope the hands are continuing to heal - don't overdo it in the shipyard!
  23. gjdale
    Andy, I'm no expert with the scroll saw, being a relative newcomer to this piece of machinery, but to overcome the issue with the large-ish hole in the centre of the table, I just made a new table top from 3mm MDF. It is exactly the same size as the original but with only a very small hole in the centre - just large enough to pass a blade through. The new top is simply placed on top of the original and held in place with clamps. It works a treat. One "upgrade" to this idea might be to coat the MDF with wax of some sort to make it easier to glide the workpiece over, but I haven't found this to be an issue........yet. From trial and error, I have found that the thinner the workpiece stock, the greater number of teeth you should have in the blade (which I think reduces the tendency for the blade to "grab" the work piece). Also, the thinner the workpiece stock, the slower the blade speed - for the same reason. As I said though, these are only my observations from trial and error with some very thin stock (1/32"). I believe Greg Herbert posted something about recommended blades at one point - might have been on MSW 1.0 though. My only other observation is that scroll saw blades are just as capable of inflicting serious bodily harm as any other power tool. Don't ask me how I know, but I was lucky!
  24. gjdale
    While I don't envy you the re-do Remco, it is re-assuring to we lesser mortals to know that even someone of your skills and talent sometimes needs to do so. I look forward to seeing your solution to this pesky problem.
  25. gjdale
    Very nice planking job Mike. Thanks also for posting those other pics - very interesting, and some lovely examples of modelling at 1:1 scale!

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