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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Very nice work on the rigging Dave. You achieved a great result on your mouse despite the weave sighting issue mate. I placed a pieceof white paper behind the jig, as close to the weave as i could. the I use a large needle to do the weave - it helped but still kept losing sight of which strand I was over or under . Away on hols at the moment and can only look in occasionally. cheers Pat
  2. Some great progress Denis; you'll be finished before you know it I am away on hols at the moment o only get to check in occasionally. cheers Pat
  3. Very nicely presented Russ, that board suits the model well. cheers Pat
  4. Nice mice Dave; that jig looks like it works well. Good idea dropping it over the serving machine like that. I learnt about the odd number of strands the hard way too cheers Pat
  5. That looks fabulous Greg; I wonder if they could have got any more guns on her!! cheers Pat
  6. Nice progress Phil; she is looking great. Well, your next build will have to be Mary Rose then you would replicate the Portsmouth museum ships cheers Pat
  7. Perhaps two large shrubs Gaetan? they look well shaped which means less sanding down the line. cheers pat
  8. Hi Ron, that is a great story and I am sure your wife will appreciate the model as much as you. That was a real neat surprise for her. As to the futtock shrouds, I must admit I had some real fun there I made the futtock shrouds up individually off the model with a longer length than needed. By this I mean that I seized the hooks into place on a length of shroud line. I then hooked the futtock shroud onto the upper deadeye strap, wrapped (half hitched) the tail end of the shroud around the futtock spreader bar, pulled it taut (being careful not to pull the lower shrouds out of line in the vertical aspect) and seized the tail up to the closest shroud as close to the spreader as I could. I then dabbed a bit of diluted white glue and trimmed off the rag end after it was dry. BTW, my spreader bar was a length of stiff thin wire with a thread serving along its length - I simulated the leather caps on the end with a dab of leather colour paint. The real jobs had a stiff rope core I think. I found working (fitting the futtock shrouds) from aft to fwd best/easiest for me. I also did this before I did any of the ratlines. As too fat fingers - welcome to the club With the deadeye lanyards I found using much much longer lengths and doing a very loose weave initially, allowed me to get gingers in there without disturbing the other bits and bobs. I was then able to pull the lanyard taut and align the deadeyes using tweezers and a very fine pair of needle point plier. I hope that makes sense for you? cheers Pat
  9. Hi again, The wooden mouse form is about 4mm long and 3mm at max across - it had a slightly conical off axis shape if that makes sense? More like a ball/bead with one side drawn out a bit. I was able to turn these on my mini-lathe, but you could take a bead and add some putty, or even two-part epoxy to one side then shape it when dry, redrilling the hole if necessary on one side. cheers Pat
  10. Thanks Steven, I'll give you a PM when I have returned. cheers Pat
  11. Those pics look familiar mate - nice bending work by the way. You are slowly getting there cheers Pat
  12. Thanks for looking in and comments Eddie and ST7S Sorry don't know what name to use? The wooden mouse form was about 4mm long and to 3mm at max across - it had a slightly conical off axis shape if that makes sense? More like a ball/bead with one side drawn out a bit. I was able to turn these on my mini-lathe, but you could take a bead and add some putty, or even two-part epoxy to one side then shape it when dry, redrilling the hole if necessary on one side. cheers Pat
  13. Hi Steven, just found your log and found myself very impressed and immersed in your development for this build. You have made a great start and will follow with considerable interest. I have some celery top pine that may answer to your needs for pine planks - let me know if interested. I can also mill, or assist you milling, as I have a bandsaw and JB 4" for final cuts. I see Dick has already offered and I do not wish to step on any toes I am heading off on a one month holiday next week but happy to catch up on my return. cheers Pat
  14. Those newer plates look good Dave, as Greg said - persistence pays off. I admire your drive for scratch made. cheers Pat
  15. Worth every back ache and cramp you experienced Greg; the individual railings are a much better look. I have purchased the PE versions but you have convinced me to change to these for my Vampire. cheers Pat
  16. Stunning - that sunlight effect is very effective. A walk through will be really something (oil lights flickering for lighting?) cheers Pat
  17. Haven't left yet mate; next Wednesday - then we'll see about wifi cheers Pat
  18. Nice progress COG, that PE must have been testing Like the third hand - looks vaguely familiar cheers Pat
  19. Looks great Greg. Being a Command ship she will have had a plethora of wire aerials for the long-haul comms. You seem to have deciphered the jig-saw pretty well. cheers Pat
  20. Thanks Michael, that is awfully good work at that scale. Great trick to remember for the paper too - thanks cheers Pat
  21. Christos, have a look at Chuck's Cheerful build; he shows a great technique. cheers Pat
  22. That is simply stunning work; what is the size (diameter) of the compass card Michael? cheers Pat
  23. Nice work Ben, hopefully the new gluing arrangement of the frames will prevent further issues. I like the vast expanses of the workshop too Lucky you! cheers Pat
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