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glbarlow

NRG Member
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Everything posted by glbarlow

  1. One of the things I like about Speedy and Flirt is the close distance between bulkheads, especially at the bow, there seems to be more the traditional kit spacing on these. Or maybe it’s just my imagination.
  2. Ahh the secret is out. I get the first one, well the second one after James puts us all to shame. 😁
  3. As well made as Syren blocks or any blocks might be I always push an appropriate size drill bit through the block in advance of the rope to clear our any debris and/or to ensure a smooth opening for the rope - plus doing what you are by rubbing a bit of CA on the end of the rope to effectively create a needle, of course that CA has to dry and it takes very little to make it stiff enough to push through. Yes, CA does go bad after a while. I use the applicators I think I've shared before - at some point I realize the CA is getting a bit gel like and just toss the applicator and fill up a new one. I use watered down white glue on all the knots, though I do use a tiny bit of CA on rope as well in some situations. All this to say, welcome to the club we all experience the same sort of things.
  4. All the cannon on my models are up against the bulwarks. I’d think they stowed them this way to prevent them sliding around on the deck. Everything looks great, an excellent model that shows the time you’re putting into it.
  5. It's your hobby, it's great to apply whatever quality you're happy and comfortable with doing. I'm sure I spend way too much time trying to make everything as well as I can - to each his own be true.
  6. Looks like James has competition for fastest builder. Nice work.
  7. Fascinating to watch a design get developed. I agree about the risk point of the stern Frames. They do seem a bit fragile, maybe include a few spares in the kit.
  8. That's a really good point. I'm not sure I could pull that off, let's see how James does it 🙂
  9. So this one might take you a week to build rather than your usual 4 days 😂😁
  10. Looking forward to following your build of this interesting kit.
  11. Excellent review James. I’ve never seen anything like this, really looking forward to seeing the first build logs. It seems one potential challenge is if any of those pre-formed planks break, were any extras provided for the more clumsy among us? I’m also confused by all the interior detail and trying to imagine myself making all those barrels. I assume you’d only do that if you’re a masochist or are planning to expose the interior as part of the build. Quite the new approach to kits. I’m also surprised at the reasonable price for so much material. So who’s building the first one so we can all watch?
  12. The bulkheads on this model aren’t close. You’ll face the possibility of a wavy deck without the false deck. I doubt 1/32 or even. 1/16th would make a difference. I think we established you have a different POB than mine. I’m quite sure mine has a false deck. Your choice though, it’s your model. I can only offer my experience as suggestions
  13. These particular models deserve some bright colors. I like your red, I think it’s a great choice and is a perfect look for this model. Gotta go big with RED!
  14. Yes, it provides a solid surface for gluing planking and to prevent warping or twisting, I've never seen a model without one (other than elaborate plank on frame models of course)- even 1/32 would work.
  15. There needs to be a false deck on top of the bulkheads and then the deck planks applied to that, not the plank applied directly to the bulkhead. If one is missing from the kit I'd highly advise you to get some 1/16 basswood and cut one yourself. Very cool about helping with the restoration.
  16. Thanks for the tip John, I’ll see if I can locate one for trying fancier fancy moulding. 😀
  17. I’ve never not done inner bulwarks before decking to ensure a clean tight fit. I use a laser level to true up the masts. Your problem is either a warped dowel than or the slot is off, not entirely uncommon in some kits. A leveling process between the table, the ship, and the mast is a common step to take. I don’t follow your measurement process other than it seems it’s over complicating things. I doubt an exact knife would do much, you might be able to fake it with a mini chisel If that’s the look you want why not just cut the planks and lay them for real. Basic kits like this one call for full length planks only because it’s easier for beginners. It’s not hard to cut them, the only challenge is determining your planking shift pattern, which you musT do in advance of the first plank. You can lay full length ones in the center that will be covered by deck furniture.
  18. Both of those places sound cold, but then I’m a Texan. We recently set a historic high for The Dallas area, 106 F, 41 C for those across the pond. That’s hot. Fortunately it was a one day thing. Your a never ending source of skills Derek. I think there is silver soldering in my future with Cheerful, the paste is something I’ll definitely try, I’ve only attempted it with the old spool of solder in the past with mixed result.
  19. Thanks Derek, it does look like a ship now. Thanks also everyone for the likes and for stopping by.
  20. Such great detail in this model and so finely brought out with your skills Rusty. Did you choose to go with the pear for your decking? The wood looks great in the hold
  21. Nicely done. Brings back memories. The stern was a favorite part of the build for me.
  22. I've been looking forward to it too, being done with it. The Amati scrapers won't work - as someone noted the smaller one isn't small enough for these 1/16 x 1/32 strips. I've managed to make one from a brass plate, I'll report in the next post how I'm doing with it. 😄 I like the color contrast as well, the black, red, and AYC do all look good together. The upper part of the hull is a bit beat up at the moment, it'll look even better once I solve, I mean install the moulding.
  23. Well its all fun Chuck. 😄 I agree, I've looked forward to getting to this stage - the one after the moulding...
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