mtaylor

Dan, That is the "watchkeeper's bench" and lives on the q-deck, usually in front of the helm and mizzen mast. Fairly common as near as I can tell from various French sites and ships. The seat part on some lifted and on others, there was a pull out drawer either on the side or front. Inside the bench were pistols, swords, and maybe a short blunderbus for small grapeshot. It was for the officer's use in case of boarding parties or mutiny.

Great pictures, Colin. I do have a suggestion.. pull them out of the gallery (it's for completed models) and put them here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/43-model-ship-clubs-and-exhibitions-and-events-museums-and-museum-ships/ since that's where museums, etc. should be placed. It'll make them easier to find if someone wants to add to It or find them.

Well, I hate to say it, but this log is now terminated. I knew about a year ago that it might come this but not in the way I thought. There's been a lot of lessons learned and I'll give some of them as they are also reasons for terminating this log. However... I will be starting a new log on Licorne once a fresh supply of framing material arrives. Lessons learned: 1) Use only one set of drawings. I started by using two and assumed that they were dimensionally the same. Wrong! 2) Be darn sure that the reference points are adhered to throughout the build. A couple of points on this one. Hahn's drawings use a 1/4 inch build board, I used 3/16 inch thick board. My confusion came on as I thought his measurements went from the bottom of the build board up.. they didn't. Only the frame drawings had the full build board thickness and I made a faulty assumption but apparently not consistently as I'm off as much as 1/16th of inch in places. 3) Add reference lines in the cutting process of frames. I took measurements after the frames were cut and was led astray by 2). 4) What I found acceptable even two months ago in my build, I find unacceptable now. 5) I've discovered better ways of using my power tools with time and usage. 6) Use only quality wood and reject out of hand anything less than quality. There's places where I "made do" and I'm less than happy about it. 7) Keep the fingers away from spinning tools -- like milling bits and saw blades. 8) Even the master messes up. I noticed in photos that there's errors where things just didn't go together right on Hahn's model and he tweaked it. 9) It's a hobby dammit!!!!!!!! Slow down and enjoy the trip not the destination. Anyway, thanks for following along on this journey of discovery and I hope the next will be better. It has to be since I learned from this one. Lastly, expect more idiotic questions as I go... It's still a learning process. See you on Licorne... Version II.

Great looking ratlines and great idea for jig to keep the shrouds spaced properly.

There's a lot of good looking fiddly bits there, Hank. Keep up the good work.

Your diorama makes me shiver.... it looks that cold. Beautiful work. Wefalck.

Great carving work and at 1:100 too....

Lovely painting on the sails. Looks wonderful..

Since they're both 74's and from the same time period, they both will probably seem to look alike. The differences will most likely be in the lines and the details....

There are three planking tutorials (all very good) at the beginning of this sub-forum. Have a look....

Ronald, I'm not 100% sure where to get them. Might try Cornwall Models. As I said, I've never used them, I've just read the logs of those who have.

Having said what I said earlier, the only wood that is really a bear to work with is ebony. The rest are all doable.

Ronald, I'd say paint it with any method you want. Brushstrokes might be fine at 1:1 but at anything smaller, it's problematical. But that's my opinion so let the flames begin. I've heard that Admiralty paints from Caldercraft/Jotika are the most accurate but have no experience, just second-hand knowledge of what's been reported.

Nenad, Look in a shop that sells sewing supplies. The wheel is used to trace patterns for making clothing, etc.

Beautiful work on the masts.

No worries, David. It's the nature of the hobby: a comfy chair, extra large bowl of popcorn, a selection of fine adult beverages and, of course, BUILD LOGS!!!!! Ah... smell of sawdust in the morning... it smells like... shipbuilding! (with apologies to Robert Duvall).

Looks great, Popeye. The ski rack is the perfect finish.

Phil, She's coming along nicely. I'm happy to see this build log. On the prow... go for the long version and spritsail mast and top. It'll be more in the period of the hull. Look at the other Wasa logs and completed galleries to get some ideas that you can make your own.

I would imagine that firing that gun would add a new meaning to "shiver me timbers" and hope like hell that the fuse on the shell isn't a short one.

For some reason, I just can't wrap my mind around an 8-foot long model but your table and stand are absolutely stunning.

Thanks for the "likes" and comments... finish sanding with the "good" paper will wait until the whole hull is planked. Yeah, I know, the longer I wait, the more there will be. Popeye, I think you might be right but if it's what I think it is, it's wood that will be cut off. The trim line is supposedly just in front of the first frame which I just re-checked and I'm good.. Anyway, need to resolve some issues at the stern. More later.

Apply enough soaking and heat and any wood will bend, even ebony. Here's some pics of a pretty radical curve plank of cherry I used on my Licorne. It not only curved forward approaching the bow but had twist and then a lateral curve in the main curve. I soaked the strip a lot longer than I needed to as life got in the way and then bent it using ship as the jig. Normally, I use an old curling iron but do to all the curves and twists, in situ seemed to be the best solution.

I don't know what's available where you are, but a soldering pad is indispensable for protecting the work area. Something like this: http://www.micromark.com/soldering-pad-12-inches-x-12-inches,7358.html

Thanks Augie. Masterful way of doing it.

Wow... so much to absorb and very refreshing insight into the details of coils.