Group Prototype HMS Winchelsea - FINISHED - 1764 - by Chuck (1/4" scale)

[Stuntflyer]

Looks great, Chuck! Nice to see those stern frames covered up.

 

Mike

[pigwar]

She looks so beautiful. I hope I can see her as soon as possible

[English Rebel]

Chuck

I'm just starting to read this build. I assume that you have your own laser cutting two axis machine and that you design the parts in a CAD program then use that to program the machine. I'm wondering how you program the machine to make the markings. I apologize for the technical questions, but I'm a retired engineer and you know how engineers are - they just have to know the details.

Alan

Alan

[Chuck]

You mean the etched lines and letters.  That is done by running the laser at very low power and a higher speed.  The laser doesnt cut all the way through.  It just lightly scores the surface and it shows up because it burns a Light line in the wood

[Jasseji]

Some laser cutter software will do it automatically, the black lines will basically be lasered at full power and any other color at lower power depending on the percentage that color has on the scale

 

[English Rebel]

I just finished reading all of this incredible build. Kudos to you Chuck for a wonderfully detailed build notes.

Alan

[Trussben]

Beautiful Chuck.

[Rustyj]

Boy that looks fantastic!

[JpR62]

Always a real pleasure to follow this wonderful build. Thank you Chuck !

[Chuck]

Thank You fellas

 

Today I added the waterway on top of the margin planks.  Originally I was going to use a 1/16" x 1/16" strip.  But after some thought I switched and used a 3/64" x 3/64" strip of cedar.  I carefully sanded away one corner so the strip was like a quarter round molding.  Then I glued it along the bulwarks.

 

Then it was time for the checker pattern floor in the great cabin.  This is 3/64" thick.  It is laser etched with the pattern as you can see.  It is cut over-sized so with a little tweaking it should fit everyone's model.  So it is crucial that you make a paper pattern first that fits in the space tight.  Then trace it on the sheet and cut it to fit your model.  Try for a nice tight fit!!!  I prefer a subtle pattern that isnt too dark.  So many models end up with a black and white pattern which I find so distracting.  

 

Remember where the forward bulkhead will be so you position the forward edge correctly.  My floor ends right under where the deck beam will be so I know the bulkhead will sit on top of the edge of the checker pattern.

 

From this point, I will slowly make my way forward building the various coamings and partners.  This needs to be done so we can plank the deck properly around these items.  You can see that the one coaming and grating was completed.  I wont add the ladder until later.  But I did manage to build the capstan partners.

The capstan partner sits against the coaming.  It is also laser cut in three pieces and glues together quickly.  I simulated the seams between each section.  I also softened the top edge because it shouldnt be a hard edge.

 

One interesting feature about the partners is that it should NOT be glued directly to the false deck.  The deck is sloped which is to be expected.  But the partners need to be level otherwise the capstan will not work properly.  This means the forward edge of the partners need to be lifted a bit to raise it up and level it off.  I did this with a little cheat.  I added a small length of a 1/32" strip under the forward edge which will be covered up after we plank the deck.  You will notice how it looks lifted up on the forward side and level.  If you need to sand the bottom of the aft edge a bit to make it level then that is OK also.

 

I simulated the bolts using 20 pound black monfilament.  You guys should pick some up in various sizes as we will be using it a lot throught the model.  

 

Chuck

[Thistle17]

It is hard to imagine what you can create to top this for your next model offering.

Joe

[Chuck]

Thanks...I have actually been throwing two ideas around in my head.   I am seriously considering the Hornet of 1812.  Or a Colonial Schooner.   But leaning really hard in the direction of Hornet.

 

 

[Jasseji]

7 hours ago, Chuck said:

Thanks...I have actually been throwing two ideas around in my head.   I am seriously considering the Hornet of 1812.  Or a Colonial Schooner.   But leaning really hard in the direction of Hornet.

 

 

Leopard in 1:24

[Chuck]

Leopard!!!!  No thats not gonna be a choice.   Its going to be a long while before I tackle a project as large and complex as the Winnie again.   I am going to do a few smaller subjects after this one guys.   The number of laser cut parts and designed elements is about four times more than you will find in most or all kits of this size.  Thats a lot of parts!!!   I want to simplify after this one is done.

 

And I still have to produce a POF cross section for Winnie!!!!  I just want to see if I can tackle the design challenge to give you something new with the cross section.  I think it could be a nice extension of the group project as well.

 

 

Chuck

[VTHokiEE]

8 hours ago, Chuck said:

produce a POF cross section for Winnie

I'm very glad to see this still on the table; do you have any idea how far out it might be? Am I correct in assuming that you will wait until after you complete the Winnie to return to it?

[Jim Rogers]

That will be the perfect companion piece for the Winnie.

[Chuck]

Its way way out!!!!  Not until I finish this one.   

[MEDDO]

love the cross section  will wait as long as it takes

[stevenmh]

I'm anxiously awaiting the cross-section as well - the scale should hopefully be easier on my aging eyes than the HO-scale Constitution cross-section I did.

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

Hello Chuck:

The “S” shaped frames look really cool in you cross section project.  Designing the piece to be cut by laser must have been challenging.

best,

G

[Chuck]

Thats the only reason why I personally want to do this POF cross section.   Its fun for me to solve those design issues.   In fact....since those pics were taken I have simplified and changes the frame design slightly.  The improved versions are even easier to build and assemble.   

 

Chuck

[Jorge Diaz O]

 Hello Mr. Chuck, I wanted to ask what ship you are referring to with your future Hornet project, which is it? Thank you.

[Chuck]

ship rigged Hornet...built to the lines of Wasp as she appeared in 1812.   I believe 10 ports per side.

 

[Jorge Diaz O]

Bellisimo... mr Passaro.

[Chuck]

Im just really bored with seeing so many Syren kits getting built.  Since there is a huge lack of American ships on the market that are any good I figured I would rectify that situation.  All you ever see are Syren and Constitution kits being built for the most part.....and the occasional Hahn colonial schooner.  Time to diversify as there are so many to choose from.  
 

 

 

 

[Dowmer]

Have you ever considered one of the US Revenue cutters ( Baltimore Clippers)?

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

Hello Chuck;

I found this in another forum post for Hornet plans for 1811

the link for the post is https://forum.game-labs.net/topic/7707-american-ship-collection-with-plans/page/6/

Hope they are helpful.

G

[Chuck]

Thanks.....I have all that plus much much more.   The research is well under way.

[Chuck]

Back to the Winnie....

 

To make the gratings for the gun deck you will need 3 packages of my cambered grating mini kits.  I will not be including these in the package for chapter 4 because I sell them in either cedar (less expensive) or boxwood.   Both would work and you guys can choose.  You will also need the grating jig.  One jig should last you the entire project.

 

To start, figure out how many cambered laser cut grating strips you will need to fit the space in your coaming.  Only build what you need.  For example this grating below on left side needed just seven grating strips in the jig.  My coaming were designed so each grating will fit perfectly when finished.  So dont use more than the space needs.

 

Then use the supplied strips and press them into the notches carefully.  You will notice they will probably be too tight at first.  This is by design.  You need to run some sandpaper down the strip until it becomes a nice press-fit into the notches.  Once again only use the number of strips you need.  In this case 13 strips pressed firmly in position...

 

At this stage you should look it over to make sure no grating strips went crooked while you were fitting the batten strips.  If they did your holes wont be equal in shape and size.  Fix those now using a toothpick if they lean over.  Its easy to do.

 

Then paint on some watered down tite-bond.  Get it in all the nooks and crannies.   Not too thick.   If the holes start clogging....add more water.

Wait about 2 minutes but not so long that the glue will dry.  You want to carefully pry the grating free of the jig before it dries and is glued to the jig!!!

 

Then clean up the jig for the next grating.   But you are not done yet.  Brush more glue on the bottom underside of the grating.  Set it aside to dry fully.

 

Now you are probably saying.... how in world will these ugly dirty gratings look good.  Right now they look awful.

 

Snip off the excess from the perimeter and file the sides smooth.  Check the fit in the coaming.   Then start sanding the top surface.  In the center photo below you can see I have sanding that grating only on one side.  The finished grating can be seen coming to light.

 

The one on the right is completed.   These are cedar gratings by the way.   Now should you sand the bottom too?   You dont have to.....BUT, I am sure you have seen those contemporary models and have seen how thin they are.  I wouldnt recommend going too thin.   But it does change the way the grating looks in the coaming.   

 

 

And here are the finished coamings with the gratings in position.   

 

ANY QUESTIONS????

[Chuck]

I have completed all of the partners and coamings......I can almost start planking the deck now.  I forgot one last detail which I will show you guys soon.   But here are some pics. 

 

The foremast partners are made from laser cut parts and then I added the bolts.  I used 15 pound filament for those.  Use a #75 drill bit for the holes.

 

You can also see the base plate for the stove.   You have a few options with this.  I have laser cut a nice base for you.  At this time the base was most likely just a large iron plate....but in some cases they used flagstone or slate.  If you want to depict the iron plate....just flip it over and paint it matte black.   But if you want to show some slate or flagstones, I have laser etched the other side with a stone tile pattern.

 

Simply paint it matte black first but keep the coaming natural.  Then use some weathering powders on the tiles to make them only slightly lighter.  Leave the etched grout lines (which are deeper) dark black.   But use some grays and rust colors to make a subtle stone base.  Dont over do it!!!

 

The main mast partners were done the same as the fore mast partners.   None of these are glued in position yet but I will be doing so soon!!!

Any comments or questions!!!!!!!