prototype build HMS Sphinx 1775 by James H - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[BCN-Modeller]

On 3/20/2021 at 10:04 PM, James H said:

You'll be surprised just how this build could be built by someone only just intermediate. 

 

Chris has created a kit that is designed to be as foolproof as possible and it's my task to create a manual which takes the sequence and makes it simple and clear to the average modeller. I hope I can do that.

 

That are really good news for begginers like me.
I though i can only dream about building something like this until a few years of hard learning.

I will follow your progress with even more interest than before.

Best regards from Barcelona, Pascual

 

Edited March 26, 2021 by BCN-Modeller

[BCN-Modeller]

On 3/20/2021 at 10:04 PM, James H said:

I love Barcelona. Visiting again by ship next summer (2022), but only for the day. 

 

I understand you would have only a day and there are a lot of things to do in Barcelona, also i don't know if i would be in Barcelona in the time of your visit but, if possible, it woud be a pleassure to meet with you.

 

If you send me a private with a little advance we can try to meet and share a coffe ( but perhaps in summer it would be better to share a beer).

 

Best regards from Barcelona, Pascual

 

 

Edited March 26, 2021 by BCN-Modeller

[James H]

A week has passed, so I have something I can share that's worthwhile.

 

With the basic skeleton now assembled, the bulkhead ears strengthened with the longitudinal strips, and the ply deck fitted...I can now finish the framed cannon ports. These are done in the same way that Chris used on Amati's forthcoming Victory that you may have seen in my build log.

 

These are added in pairs, numbered from the bow, back towards the stern. I push these into position so they are at right angles to the long pot strips I fitted. This is important as they'll need to line up with the inside bulwarks which have the port holes laser-cut.

 

Stern and now filler blocks are now marked, shaped and fitted. I used a Dremel for these for speed.

 

Before the inner bulwarks are fitted, I nee to sand the inner bulwark frames smooth. The best way to gauge this is that the work is pretty much done when all the char is removed. There is leeway in subsequent part fitting even if you sand these a little more than just the char, but the char is a good indication. 

 

Another nice feature of this model is that you can fit the inner bulwarks with just clamps, and then paint in the glue from within the frames, once everything is aligned. There's little to no fettling to do here either. The gun ports in the inner bulwarks are also slightly smaller than the framed ports, so you can trim them to size later.

 

 

Before the rear inner bulwarks are fitted, two pearwood beams are added to the rear hull. These also tie the stern timbers to the side frames.

 

Now the rear inner bulwarks are fitted. Any small gaps between the bulwarks and ply deck will be hidden with the deck and the spirketting.

 

Unlike Chris' test hull, this model will be painted, and the inner bulwarks will be painted red. However, they won't be painted in the cabin areas, but left in varnish. To mark the extent of the paint, I test fit one of the cabin bulkheads.

 

 

The inner bulwarks can now be painted. Before paint, the surfaces are sanded with 320 grit paper, and wipe on poly is applied only in the area of the bulwarks that will be painted (spirketting will be fitted to upper and lower bulkheads). I don't like to glue parts onto surfaces where poly has been applied, so take this into consideration. For paint, I airbrush Tamiya Flat Red over the timber, then give a very light brush coat of Vallejo Flat Red, which gives a very pleasing finish.

 

 

Once the masking is removed, the laser-engraved maple deck is then fitted. Some adjustment is made to the edges so it fits properly. I use Titebond Extra for this to allow me more time to manoeuvre things. Clamps hold down the deck adding the edges. Small clamps in the middle areas.

 

 

The spirketting is also painted in the same colours, but only in the area that will require it (not the cabin!) This is then fitted.

 

 

Cabin seat patterns are now adjusted to width and fitted. A little sanding of the MDF frame area needs to be done first, but not too much.

 

 

Some MDF parts are now added to the bow area to help with fitting the outer patterns. Anything above deck level will eventually be broken away when the deck is fitted.

 

 

Finally, those safety gates which gave strength to the unsupported bulkheads, can be removed as the whole structure is now very strong. After this, the hull can be faired for fitting the outside patterns and planking.

 

 

Whilst I was waiting for stuff on the hull to dry, I worked on the stove. Here you see the pear carcass being assembled.

 

 

And of course, this is mostly sheathed in photo-etch.

 

 

I'll not be sanding this hull until later this week when I finish work for Easter. That means I can do that task outside, but I will work on some deck stuff this week....maybe cannon.

 

Until next time 😁

 

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

52 minutes ago, James H said:

A week has passed, so I have something I can share that's worthwhile.

 

With the basic skeleton now assembled, the bulkhead ears strengthened with the longitudinal strips, and the ply deck fitted...I can now finish the framed cannon ports. These are done in the same way that Chris used on Amati's forthcoming Victory that you may have seen in my build log.

 

These are added in pairs, numbered from the bow, back towards the stern. I push these into position so they are at right angles to the long pot strips I fitted. This is important as they'll need to line up with the inside bulwarks which have the port holes laser-cut.

 

Stern and now filler blocks are now marked, shaped and fitted. I used a Dremel for these for speed.

 

Before the inner bulwarks are fitted, I nee to sand the inner bulwark frames smooth. The best way to gauge this is that the work is pretty much done when all the char is removed. There is leeway in subsequent part fitting even if you sand these a little more than just the char, but the char is a good indication. 

 

Another nice feature of this model is that you can fit the inner bulwarks with just clamps, and then paint in the glue from within the frames, once everything is aligned. There's little to no fettling to do here either. The gun ports in the inner bulwarks are also slightly smaller than the framed ports, so you can trim them to size later.

 

 

Before the rear inner bulwarks are fitted, two pearwood beams are added to the rear hull. These also tie the stern timbers to the side frames.

 

Now the rear inner bulwarks are fitted. Any small gaps between the bulwarks and ply deck will be hidden with the deck and the spirketting.

 

Unlike Chris' test hull, this model will be painted, and the inner bulwarks will be painted red. However, they won't be painted in the cabin areas, but left in varnish. To mark the extent of the paint, I test fit one of the cabin bulkheads.

 

 

The inner bulwarks can now be painted. Before paint, the surfaces are sanded with 320 grit paper, and wipe on poly is applied only in the area of the bulwarks that will be painted (spirketting will be fitted to upper and lower bulkheads). I don't like to glue parts onto surfaces where poly has been applied, so take this into consideration. For paint, I airbrush Tamiya Flat Red over the timber, then give a very light brush coat of Vallejo Flat Red, which gives a very pleasing finish.

 

 

Once the masking is removed, the laser-engraved maple deck is then fitted. Some adjustment is made to the edges so it fits properly. I use Titebond Extra for this to allow me more time to manoeuvre things. Clamps hold down the deck adding the edges. Small clamps in the middle areas.

 

 

The spirketting is also painted in the same colours, but only in the area that will require it (not the cabin!) This is then fitted.

 

 

Cabin seat patterns are now adjusted to width and fitted. A little sanding of the MDF frame area needs to be done first, but not too much.

 

 

Some MDF parts are now added to the bow area to help with fitting the outer patterns. Anything above deck level will eventually be broken away when the deck is fitted.

 

 

Finally, those safety gates which gave strength to the unsupported bulkheads, can be removed as the whole structure is now very strong. After this, the hull can be faired for fitting the outside patterns and planking.

 

 

Whilst I was waiting for stuff on the hull to dry, I worked on the stove. Here you see the pear carcass being assembled.

 

 

And of course, this is mostly sheathed in photo-etch.

 

 

I'll not be sanding this hull until later this week when I finish work for Easter. That means I can do that task outside, but I will work on some deck stuff this week....maybe cannon.

 

Until next time 😁

 

 

 

Great to see the progress, you are doing a great job. This looks to be a brilliant kit.

[James H]

58 minutes ago, glennard2523 said:

Great to see the progress, you are doing a great job. This looks to be a brilliant kit.

 

I think I'll definitely do the cannon this week. That's the most numerous of the deck furniture to build. 

[paul carruthers]

Waiting for the release!

[glbarlow]

Always fun to watch your build of a Chris design.  Excellent!

[JeffT]

I like the way the ports are done. So much easier that way!

[scrubbyj427]

Kits sure have come a long way from when I started building. This is amazing design work.

[BCN-Modeller]

10 hours ago, James H said:

With the basic skeleton now assembled, the bulkhead ears strengthened with the longitudinal strips, and the ply deck fitted...I can now finish the framed cannon ports. These are done in the same way

that Chris used on Amati's forthcoming Victory that you may have seen in my build log.

 

One question:

The position of the cannon ports is determined by a messure from other part, by example the bow ? close bulkheads ?

as in the following quote you stated that you push them into position.

It's just that i don't know how to determine this position even probably it would be stated somehow in the instructions.

Just curious about that.

 

10 hours ago, James H said:

These are added in pairs, numbered from the bow, back towards the stern. I push these into position so they are at right angles to the long pot strips I fitted.

 

Really a nice ship. 

Waiting to see it completelly rigged.

 

 

 

[KentM]

A nice hybrid kit.  Sort of a cross between a POB and POF.  I'm ready to buy.

Kent

[James H]

11 minutes ago, BCN-Modeller said:

 

One question:

The position of the cannon ports is determined by a messure from other part, by example the bow ? close bulkheads ?

as in the following quote you stated that you push them into position.

It's just that i don't know how to determine this position even probably it would be stated somehow in the instructions.

Just curious about that.

 

 

 

The long strips I first fitted to the bulkheads, are the top and bottom sides of the gun ports. These can only fit in one way.

 

 

The gun ports are numbered 1 - 11 from bow to stern, and the side frames are fitted in pairs, slotting into the positions on the strips I just mentioned.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[BCN-Modeller]

4 hours ago, James H said:

 

The long strips I first fitted to the bulkheads, are the top and bottom sides of the gun ports. These can only fit in one way.

 

 

4 hours ago, James H said:

The gun ports are numbered 1 - 11 from bow to stern, and the side frames are fitted in pairs, slotting into the positions on the strips I just mentioned.

 

Thank you for the explanation @James H.
Very clever and Fail Safe. 
Much more easy that what i was thinking.

The more you show as this model in the forum, the more i like it.

 

waiting for the next update.

 

 

Edited March 29, 2021 by BCN-Modeller

[AlanDavison]

I must say that I agree with James H, MDF is far superior to ply. In my experience it does no swell warp or split under normal working conditions. I agree that MDF is softer than ply but if you treat it with care it is fine. As with any timber you have to treat it with respect, don’t force it, work with the grain (if there is one), etc. With my Speedy, I left the fragile stern counter framing off until I had almost completed the first planking, thus reducing the possibility of damage. Looking forward to future build instalments and the release of the kit, I guess, in late spring, early summer.

[James H]

25 minutes ago, AlanDavison said:

Looking forward to future build instalments and the release of the kit, I guess, in late spring, early summer.

 

I think so. My personal aim is 12 weeks or thereabouts. Then the manual needs to be done, including plans printed, box art labels done etc.

[chris watton]

45 minutes ago, SpyGlass said:

Ah well my practice always used to be to soak strips and clamp onto the skeleton at least overnight to get the shape - fine with ply but not MDF  I  found.  Mind I have now gone to steam bending rather than soaking.

 

 

Now, I hate to disagree with anyone on these forums, but I have built literally dozens of models using MDF for the past 13 years, and have never once experienced what you describe. I too have laid soaking wet limewood first planking to the MDF frames without the slightest issue.

 

I had the first prototype Sphinx MDF skeleton outside by the bins for a couple of weeks, where is suffered rain, sleet and snow. No signs of swelling at all, although the 2mm ply deck did warp. All of my MDF is bought from he same place, and is the highest grade I can buy. You must have been very determined to get your MDF to react like that.

Edited March 30, 2021 by chris watton

[glbarlow]

55 minutes ago, James H said:

No, can my build log please not be used as a battleground for the merits/demerits of MDF. I did say 'back to Sphinx' and that was roundly ignored for yet another post about MDF.

Well said James. As you noted there is a separate forum topic for MDF discussion (which I will never visit). It doesn't need to come up every time you post a build log. This and many models are built with MDF, let's focus on how it's built not what it's built with.

[James H]

8 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

Well said James. As you noted there is a separate forum topic for MDF discussion (which I will never visit). It doesn't need to come up every time you post a build log. This and many models are built with MDF, let's focus on how it's built not what it's built with.

 

Before I head to the cave and work on some deck stuff, I'm spending some time on photos and captions for the manual. This will save me the gargantuan task later on 😬

[Gregory]

James, what is the software you use for creating the manual?  It looks very robust?

[James H]

4 minutes ago, Gregory said:

James, what is the software you use for creating the manual?  It looks very robust?

Putting the manual together is what Chris does. I create the text and photos (editing in Lightroom and Photoshop). I might also annotate these with Illustrator too, to make things even clearer. I think @chris watton uses InDesign, but I'm sure he'll correct me if I'm wrong.

[chris watton]

Yep, InDesign for putting the manual together, along with box art. I also used it to put the plan sheet together, but now use CorelDraw instead, as it's much easier to import my CAD drawings with text into this software.

[PhillH]

On 3/30/2021 at 10:32 AM, chris watton said:

I had the first prototype Sphinx MDF skeleton outside by the bins for a couple of weeks, where is suffered rain, sleet and snow.

😭

[James H]

Just a small update.

 

Sphinx comes with a series of jigs to ensure that the bulwarks are always properly spaced throughout your build as the upper decks will depend on it. There is always a little leeway, but at least you can check things as they are planked etc. These are the jigs which are not glued into position.

 

 

I'm halfway through fairing the hull, but been doing some other stuff between tasks. This time I turned my attention to the 20 cannon and the binnacle. The binnacle is a nice, easy item to construct and there's little to do wrong. In fact, I can't see how anyone could stuff this up. 

 

 

 

The cannon are also very easy, just time consuming as mass producing any one individual item always is. Note that with these, there are no fiddly PE capsquares to fit. This time, they are a part of the pearwood carriage sides. So no awkward bending and fitting to do. What this does mean is that you will need to paint the carts before complete assembly. It's easy enough, and a little paint is just scraped away before gluing the side into position on the rest of the assembly. The guns are also black resin, so no painting needed. 

 

 

 

Back to fairing the hull in the morning, then I can get onto fitting the first layer outside bulwark and the first layer of planking.

 

Until then...

 

[Glenn-UK]

Great build information, and very nice looking cannons.

[ccoyle]

16 minutes ago, James H said:

In fact, I can't see how anyone could stuff this up. 

 

Hold my (root)beer...

[Jim Rogers]

I am NOT a fan of the PE eyelets.

 

[James H]

6 minutes ago, Jim Rogers said:

I am NOT a fan of the PE eyelets.

 

 

You can always replace them eyelets of your choice, of course.

[dvm27]

Love those PE binnacle components!

[Jim Rogers]

8 hours ago, James H said:

 

You can always replace them eyelets of your choice, of course.

I do😁

[James H]

Today, I finished fairing the hull. 

 

At least it's one time I wear a mask where I don't actually mind doing it! Again, a good indicator or when this is done is when the char is gone. Fairing the bow and stern assemblies first saves a whole lot of time too.

 

 

 

Next up are the external pearwood bulwarks (first layer). Before these can be fitted, they need to be pre-bent. Each one is soaked in hot water for about 45 mins, by time the water has then gone cold! The bulwarks are then taken straight from the water and laid onto the MDF frame, and clamped. It's also pinned through the pear and into the MDF in some places that are awkward to clamp. When dry, these will be taken off and then properly aligned and glued. You can see from these pics just how the bulwark clings pretty much to the whole area of faired bulkheads, so there's no ripple/gaps you need to negotiate.

 

 

 

And just to prove I'm also an untidy worker and these photos are a facade, here's the desktop.

Until next time...