28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale

[MEDDO]

It has been very inspiring seeing this project progress.  I definitely like small boats and don't think they are modeled enough.  Looking forward to following along watching a master do his thing

[KeithAug]

Nice work Druxey --- drawing the planks on the plug is so obvious i am wondering why I didn't think of it!!!

When I did my draughting training (50 years ago) at Rolls Royce we had a whole day given over sharpening our pencils to a 0.0125" thick chisel point. Bet that skill isn't taught any more.

[druxey]

Keith: You remind me of an anecdote about Oscar Wilde. He was holding forth at some gathering making his usual brilliant remarks, after one of which someone said, "Oh, I wish I'd thought of that!" To which Oscar replied, "You will, my dear boy, you will!"

[Bob Cleek]

In using this construction technique, at what point does tumblehome become a problem in removing the planked hull from the plug? I recall the loss of tumblehome when yacht hulls began to be made of fiberglass, which didn't permit removing a hull with tumblehome from a mold unless the mold was constructed of two parts split down the centerline which could be disassembled and removed from each side. Is there enough "flex" in the planked up structure to "spread" the sides and "pop" the hull off the plug?

[druxey]

Bob: I don't have an answer to that other than I've never wished to test many hours of work to destruction! I agree that a three-piece plug would solve the issue, but at this size the extra work involved is simply not worth it. The last strake will be added after removal from the plug. This, however, is some time off yet!

[druxey]

The garboard completed both sides and pins removed, the second strake was next. In the first photo you can see two of the various hold-down strategies used. 

 

To spile planking  at this scale is difficult to do the traditional way using a set of compasses. I now use Scotch brand matte removable tape. I lay a strip over the model and dot every ¼" or so. The tape is stripped off and laid on the stock (photo). The side to be joined to the existing strake is cut first and as accurately as possible. I use a sharp scalpel and ship's curve for this. The other side is cut a little wide of the marks. The plank is then fitted and fettled if necessary before refining the free edge. It is then shaped and glued into place. Once a strake is completed I sight along it to see if there is any waviness and file the edge smooth before continuing with the next strake.

 

Now on to the second strake, port side. The process outlined above will continue until planking is completed. 

 

[AON]

OMG... I am so much smarter this morning for having visited!  

 

I've looked back but cannot find the answer to my one question: are you using PVA or CA glue to nail this strake in place?

Edited April 21, 2021 by AON

[wefalck]

I feel almost like a heretic bringing up this subject, but have you thought of using a CAD-system such as DelftShip to develop the planking diagram ?

 

I have been thinking of this, because I will be facing the problem soon of having to clinker-plank a boat that is only a couple of centimetres long. Traditional ways of taking off plank widths will be rather difficult to use. The planking itself will not be so difficult - some years ago I made a little dinghi about 3 cm long from Eric McKee's planking diagram in his booklet on clinker boats.

[dvm27]

Perfection, Druxey. Is there a point during the planking process where you'd feel comfortable lifting the boat off the mold?

[Mark P]

Such a shame we can't teach mice to row!

[druxey]

Questions, questions!

 

Alan: I almost never, ever use CA. PVA is what I'm using on this model.

 

Eberhard: I've never really got into 3D modeling since a frustrating brush with AutoCad early in the '00's.

 

Greg: If it were a clinker hull, it could come off any any point for inspection. I'd rather not chance it with the small gluing areas involved on a carvel hull.

[FriedClams]

Wonderful work Druxey and a very helpful tutorial.  I must try your cellophane tape method as it seems perfectly suited to small models.  Thanks for sharing your techniques.

 

Gary

[druxey]

Thanks for looking in, everyone. Progress will be slow. Fitting planks that average about ⅛" wide is exacting work. You can see strake three going in in this picture.

 

[wefalck]

The end of this strake is going to be interesting ...

[Maury S]

Druxey, are the planks edged glued?

Maury

[druxey]

Exactly, Maury. There is very little gluing surface. Hence the occasional frame.

[Maury S]

careful wet wiping after each plank!  That's why I went to the Luthiers PVA with the ultraviolet dye so I know where I've got a smear that needs attention.

Maury

[druxey]

So, another day, another strake on each side. Today it's strake 4. The junction at stern post and transom needed care. (I think Eberhard was wondering about this.) The plank runs were arranged so that the seam between two strakes would run into this junction. Another 'have to think well ahead' strategy. I also cut away the plug for safety here. (Photo order reversed!)

 

Yes, Maury, I wash the planks well with a wet brush and mop up excess glue before it dries. In places such as the keel/garboard junction, I also use a dental tool (elevator) shaped like a mini chisel to clean out the angle.

 

Thanks for stopping by.

 

Edited April 23, 2021 by druxey

[wefalck]

OK, you put the plank seam into the corner of the transom. I was under the impression that the plank would have to bent cross-wise and concave to fit into the corner ...

[druxey]

Yes, there is a slight concavity in the newest strake, Eberhard, but nothing extreme.

[lraymo]

Wow! Now I see what actual planking looks like!  Amazing!  

[druxey]

Five strakes down; halfway there. If progress seems slow, it is. One strake can take an hour or two to complete. Each plank has to be spiled, marked out, cut, the joints refined, the free edge smoothed and then shaped and glued. After gluing the plank often needs finessing using the hot iron and water. Once the strake is complete, it is carefully sanded almost down to the finished surface.

 

 

[wefalck]

The effort pays off 👌

[BANYAN]

Ditto, that planking looks great Druxey.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[druxey]

And another strake completed. As these strakes now run out over the transom, they are easier to fit. On closer inspection of the plans the uppermost strake, interrupted by the tholes, is actually a wash strake. It will be fitted after the shell has been removed from the plug. This means only three more strakes to go.

 

[wefalck]

Looks shipshape !

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

Beautiful approach and execution Druxey. thx for sharing. 

[druxey]

Another two strakes completed. The next strake will be the sheer strake. A smooth sheer line will make or break the model. Speaking of breaking, the moment of truth nears; that of removing the shell from the plug. From past experience there will be loud cracking nosies - heart-stopping! - and usually a few planks 'spring' a little, but it is all repairable. We shall see....

 

 

Edited April 26, 2021 by druxey

[Keith Black]

David, I can't believe how tight the planks are. Once all the planks are on and you've done the final sanding, it's going to look like a carved hull. Amazing work. 

[druxey]

Thank you, Keith, and all who have dropped by.

 

The last strake is on now and ready for the heart-stopper; getting the shell off the plug! No matter how careful, there is always some battle damage One simply hopes that it will be minimal, but one never knows. Once I've screwed up my courage, the frame extensions will be cut, the stem freed from its constraints and then.... Stay tuned!