HMS Sphinx 1775 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[allanyed]

I love the use of the sketch in the third photo.  Is it from the kit or did you draw it yourself?  It is really nice to see you have a couple removable thwarts on the model itself as this is often missed.    

Allan

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Allan, It’s a Cut-out from the plan.

Well spotted about  the ‘missing’ brackets. 👍The kit has brackets indicated for all the thwarts, but at least two of us know that wasn’t  always the case.

 

Regards

 

B.E.

 

[allanyed]

BE,  Thanks

I am sure there are some that find this kind of thing trivial which is totally fine, but it is nice to know there are folks like yourself that can be sticklers for as much accuracy as possible.  Do you happen to have the W.E. May book The Boats of Men of War?  It is not expensive and has scantlings and other information that are very useful to anyone building a ship's boat that is interested in an accurate rendition.

Allan

 

Edited August 18, 2022 by allanyed

[Rustyj]

Hi B.E. I love the look of the pinnace. Excellent workmanship. I too like the challenge making them. 

[allanyed]

One of the nicest things about building ships' boats is that there are so many free contemporary drawings and accurate scantlings available that anyone can scratch build a better boat, even with hand tools, than those found in most kits.   Power tools obviously speed things up, but are not at all necessary.  

Allan

[Blue Ensign]

Hi Allan,

I do have W.E. May book and back in the day I scratch built both the Pinnace and Longboat for my Pegasus build. A scroll saw was of great benefit cutting out the tiny frames.

 

I am quite a lazy builder and if I can get a good aftermarket item rather than do it all myself  I will, and tweak it a little if necessary.

 

This option came about with the range of boats developed by Chris Watton, and at 1:64 scale I doubt I would ever scratch one again.

 

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and fifty-six

 

Completing the Pinnace

The  final stretch for fitting out the Pinnace, seven days work and ongoing.

7996(2)

The thole pins are brass etch of a devilish tiny size and are a loose fit within the mortices making it tricky to arrange correctly without getting glue on the woodwork.

7970(2)

I chose to use wood slivers to represent the thole pins which I think look more natural, and they don’t need painting.

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The splash guards at the sternsheets and bow were  pre-bent to remove stress  and form the necessary curves. They were attached using pva.

 

I had hoped to leave the Pinnace hull below the wale entirely bright, but my eye was less than satisfied with the hull planking finish around the lower hull at the bow.

With some reluctance and not a little annoyance at my own deficiencies, I opted to paint the hull up to the waterline on the basis that a spot of ‘white’ stuff covers a multitude of sins.

7997

I used Vallejo Ivory paint which to my eye gives a better scale effect than  white.

8022(2)

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As it happens I don’t think it has turned out too badly.

 

The Rudder

The kit design is a pearwood  core sandwiched by thin brass etched patterns with the iron work detail moulded in.

The rudder attaches with false gudgeons and straps.

 

This certainly simplifies the process of rudder fitting, but for me it is a step too far removed from authenticity.

7994(2)

Making a replacement rudder is fairly easy, but hanging working rudders on these small models presents  something of a challenge.

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On the model a micro eyelet with 0.35mm ø brass wire silver soldered into it made for the lower pintle, and eyelets for the gudgeons.

 

I laboured several hours  to get the micro eyelets and pins in the right position.

I used Syren fibreboard to represent the straps.

8051(2)

One down, two more to go, I’ll set the Pinnace aside now and move onto the Launch.

 

B.E.

19/08/2022

 

 

[glbarlow]

I’ve always decided the rudder was stowed, so I didn’t have to do all this…and because I’d just make a mess of it. Well done!

[Blue Ensign]

A reasonable assumption Glenn, stowed on deck all the vulnerable  equipment would have been removed. 

Ps I don’t buy for one minute that you would make a mess of it, remember, I follow your logs.😉

 

B.E.

[allanyed]

11 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

A scroll saw was of great benefit cutting out the tiny frames.

I agree in that I also look for ease many times.  I gave up on cutting out frames for scales of 1:48 or smaller, and changed to holly which is as pliable as paper when soaked for a few minutes so easy to form around a plug.

Pics and those thousand words,,,,,,,

 

Allan

 

 

 

[allanyed]

BE,

Again your work is exemplary and a lot has to do with your research.  Congrats!

I do have a question regarding the tholes on the model below, I hope you can help me.   Do you know if this design is based on any contemporary plan?  I thought that if the boat is double banked there should be more tholes, ie: a pair for each thwart as on one of your other boats.  Or, if single banked, they should alternate port/starboard so one for every thwart.    I cannot find any contemporary plans, models or information in Lavery or May that shows the setup that the kit depicts with a double bank set up on every other thwart.  I would be grateful if you can shed some light as I have been in the midst of researching constructions of ships' boats lately and gathering as much information as possible.

Many thanks

Allan

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

That’s a sweet looking boat you have there, Allan.

 

I would agree with your thoughts about the relative numbers and locations of the tholes.

I think the kit designs have been influenced by the drawings in the AotS book Pandora by John McKay and Ron Coleman.

The boat allocation is the same; 28’ Pinnace, 24’ Launch, and 22’ Yawl.

Only the Launch is fitted for double banking on all thwarts, the Yawl is also set up for rowing on alternative thwarts.

 

The boat drawings at 1:48 scale in the AotS book The Frigate Diana, by David White, seem to have the set-up correctly done.

Had I been moved to replace the gunwales on the Pinnace I would have off-set the thole positions to reflect the single banking common to this boat type.

 To correct this on the kit one of the Gunwales  would need a slight re-working.

I say slight without any  knowledge of the technical issues/costs involved in changing the kit parts, but the lack of off-setting was the first thing I noticed on the Pinnace.

However, I suspect the finer points of single or double banking are lost on many kit builders, and even if recognised, are of less importance than just getting a nicely made boat, tricky enough with these bijou kits.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and fifty-seven

 

A place on the skids?

 Well my curiosity  got the better of me and I just had to try the Pinnace onboard Sphinx.

 This coincidentally is the twelve month stage from starting the build.

 I’m warming to the look of the Pinnace on the skids and it doesn’t obscure the upper deck detail.

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Nothing set in stone at this point, but I have decided that having all three boats on the skids would detract rather than enhance the look.

 

For me, Georgian elegance is why so many contemporary 18thc models only show the Pinnace onboard, it is the most graceful  and aesthetically pleasing(along with barges) of the boat complement.

 

B.E.

20/08/2022

 

 

 

[allanyed]

 

2 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

However, I suspect the finer points of single or double banking are lost on many kit builders, and even if recognised, are of less importance than just getting a nicely made boat, tricky enough with these bijou kits.

Thanks B.E.  Hopefully they will correct the mistake, but as you indicate, why bother if most folks are unaware of the inaccuracies.  I really think that most builders care about accuracy so incorrectly assume that when they spend hundreds of dollars/Euros for a kit, it is accurate so never check against contemporary sources to be sure.  What I find especially frustrating is to see anyone pointing out an error getting chastised or called an elitist,

 

Allan

Edited August 20, 2022 by allanyed

[Blue Ensign]

It's certainly not elitist to advance knowledge of our subject.

 I accept the limitations of kits, they have to appeal to a large range of potential buyers, don’t frighten the novices, or unduly lack credibility with the experienced, whilst maintaining a reasonable cost/benefit ratio of producing the kits.

 

Chris does wonderfully well to authentically represent the majority of the subject detail, but it was the tweakability of Sphinx that  appealed to me.

 

I record the modifications  and changes I make in my builds partly on the basis that not everyone has access to the very large reference library I have built up over the years, and giving such detail gives options.

 

Of course many people just want to complete a nice looking kit, and that’s just fine.

 

Unlike myself not everyone has or wants a head stuffed full of 18^th c trivia such as:

Worm and parcel with the lay, turn and serve the other way.

 

Mrs W definitely thinks I’m weird, but she indulges me in what in the overall scheme of things is a minority interest passion.

 

Movin’ on

 

B.E.

 

[glbarlow]

Well said BE, well said. 
 

Also, aside from an excellent model, that’s some really nice photography. 

[allanyed]

6 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

It's certainly not elitist to advance knowledge of our subject.

I could not agree more BE.  Thanks for continuing to share your build!!

Allan

[Blue Ensign]

Post One hundred and fifty-eight.

 

 Building the Launch

 This is the heavy work boat of the set.

Lacking the elegance of the Pinnace it does have interest to commend it and I’m looking forward to having a go.

 

The kit includes a simplified davit and its supports, but for some reason is lacking the windlass which is the other important feature of Launches, as it was with the Longboat.

 

I compared the kit launch with the drawings in the Pandora book for a 24’ Launch.

The book drawing does indicate the windlass  and has  two less thwarts (including the stern sheet ) compared to the kit version.

8107

The stage after fitting the ribs provides the  first opportunity for revision.

 

The kit provides a brass etch version of the keelson and footwaling which I thought was perfect for replacement with a more authentic boarding.

The kit also provides brass etch gratings for the stern-sheet and bow areas.

Looking at Launch plans and those for Longboats, gratings did not seem to feature on these boats, and it makes sense that the stern-sheet footwaling was solid to form a stable base for the Davit step.

8110

Replacement footwaling, which at least saves me the trouble of trying to turn brass into wood.

8109

The Keelson is a slightly wider and thicker board that runs down the centre of the footwaling to support the mast steps and lifting rings.

 

The number of thwarts in the kit version is eight including the  the one adjoining the stern-sheets.

8119

I am using the design for a 24’ launch in the AotS book Pandora.

 

8120

I will be using six thwarts which allows for a slightly wider main thwart at midships, and provides room for the windlass.

8111

With the stringers in place temporary thwarts are used to get things ship-shape.

8114

Once again my dockyard figures ensure the thwarts sit level and at the correct height, don’t want their feet dangling in mid-air.

8118

I still get a satisfaction seeing tiny feet planted on the footwaling, all down to Chris’s excellent scaling of the boats.

 

Still a fair bit of fettlin’ to do and a Windlass to make.

 

 

B.E.

 

22/08/2022

 

[hollowneck]

On 8/20/2022 at 7:40 AM, Blue Ensign said:

It's certainly not elitist to advance knowledge of our subject.

 I accept the limitations of kits, they have to appeal to a large range of potential buyers, don’t frighten the novices, or unduly lack credibility with the experienced, whilst maintaining a reasonable cost/benefit ratio of producing the kits.

 

Chris does wonderfully well to authentically represent the majority of the subject detail, but it was the tweakability of Sphinx that  appealed to me.

 

I record the modifications  and changes I make in my builds partly on the basis that not everyone has access to the very large reference library I have built up over the years, and giving such detail gives options.

 

Of course many people just want to complete a nice looking kit, and that’s just fine.

 

Unlike myself not everyone has or wants a head stuffed full of 18^th c trivia such as:

Worm and parcel with the lay, turn and serve the other way.

 

Mrs W definitely thinks I’m weird, but she indulges me in what in the overall scheme of things is a minority interest passion.

 

Movin’ on

 

B.E.

 

Here!Here!…👍👏

[Blue Ensign]

Post One hundred and fifty-nine.

 

 The Launch – cont’d

 Fitting the stern sheets

 The kit provided  part includes the stern-sheets and adjacent thwart as one unit. There is no bench on the aft side against the transom.

Victory Launch - note the dis-mounted Davit

This may be a design feature to allow easier fitting, which it does, but I am aware that the current launch with HMS Victory  also has no transom bench.

 I chose to include a Transom bench between the two side benches, as per the drawings in the AotS books, Pandora and Diana.

8173(2)

The individual seating parts were split up and the cut-away shape  common in side benches, was formed.

 

The Davit

The kit provided Davit is of a simplified form lacking the sheave in the outer end. I also thought it looked a little under weight.

 

The Davit was used to support the handling of anchors I doubled up on the kit pattern to create a sheave in the outer end, this gave an overall width of 2mm.

8177(3)

The Davit supports were re-made using 1.5mm  square stuff,

I also re-made the thwart adjacent to the stern-sheets, onto which the Davit supports are bolted.

 

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The Breasthook is fitted at the bow along with the first thwart.  The remainder will be left until the Windlass is fitted.

I made the Fore mast clamp on the thwart  with  black card rather than use the provided etch.

 

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This is also an opportune time to add the wales which further strengthen the hull for handling.

 

More work is required cleaning up the inner hull, these macro shot fill me with horror.😬

I prefer scraping with a wetted sharp blade rather than sanding, the thinness of the planking always has to be borne in mind.

8177(2)

The mast steps have been fitted and the Main Thwart made. This is wider by an inch than the other thwarts at 10” (4mm)

 

Before moving on, there is a windlass to make, an interesting little exercise.

 

 

B.E.

 

24/08/2022

 

 

[Kevin]

lovely work, i just love these Vanguard Model kits

Edited August 24, 2022 by Kevin

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Kevin, not so lovely just yet, a fair bit of fettlin' to go, but I too love these bijou models, hours of fun at a modest cost, and a challenge  thrown in.

What more could you want.😀

 

B.E.

 

 

[Kevin]

46 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

Thank you Kevin, not so lovely just yet, a fair bit of fettlin' to go, but I too love these bijou models, hours of fun at a modest cost, and a challenge  thrown in.

What more could you want.😀

 

B.E.

 

 

lol i will let you know when the Indi comes out, hopefully the Phoenix (ex Amerigo Vespucci) will be complete by then

[Blue Ensign]

Post One hundred and fifty-nine.

 

The Windlass

 This is a tricky fitting to make, the actual length of the Windlass is a mere 28.4mm which has to contain both square and octagonal sections.

 

Steel records  the Windlass for a 24’ Launch as being of 8”ø which equates to 3.2mm at scale.

I will be using 3mm Boxwood Square stock for the makings.

 

How to begin.

 When in doubt refer to Chuck;

 Chapter four of his Medway Longboat Monograph explains the process and fortunately I have his wonderful Medway Longboat at ½” scale, and in the plans is a template for making a windlass.

8184(2)

Reduced to 1:64 scale it provides a guide that should prove very useful, provided my eyesight is up to the job.

I have made windlasses at 1:48 and 1:64 scales previously but that was some years ago.

 

The templates are glued to the faces of the square stock and it’s then down to how well the octagons can be formed.

8186(2)

The stock is supported  in a simple ‘V’ jig.

8187(2)

I use No11 scalpel blades and micro chisels to form the octagons.

8190(2)

I use the No11 scalpel blade to form the rebate.

8195(2)

The template certainly simplifies shaping the windlass particularly at this scale, as marking with pencil lines is not so easy on this small area.

 

With the template removed  a little more definition is given the the octagonal areas, and the ends formed.

8198

Trial fitting of the windlass into the support chocks.

8201

The Main Thwart is checked against the Windlass position.

 

The remaining thwarts can now be made and put into place.

 

 

A final thought, given that the windlass is an important feature of both Longboats and Launches, I think a resin version of the Windlass would be a good ‘optional’ fitting for the Vanguard  Launch kit.

 

 

B.E.

 

25/08/2022

 

 

 

[Mirabell61]

very nice work B.E.

 

Nils

[Blue Ensign]

Post One hundred and Sixty.

 The Launch – ongoing

Detailing continues; the thwarts are in place along with the Windlass. The lifting rings have been added to the keelson.

8220

Still to add the thwart brackets.

 

Fitting the brackets is an exercise in frustration; they are incredibly tiny items, seemingly smaller than those for either the Pinnace or Yawl.

The only saving grace is that brackets are required for only three of the thwarts, which allows a margin for the inevitable escapees.

 

Before I move onto the wash strakes I needed to decide whether to paint the bottom of the launch up to the waterline.

8221

I had intended to leave the whole hull bright across the range, but I quite liked the effect on the Pinnace, so ivory bottom it is.

On the kit the hull is painted white overall up to the wale, but I prefer a bright hull between waterline and wale which provides a nice contrast.

 Wash-strakes

These are formed using planking strips allowing for the oarlock spaces.

The blurb says  add more lengths of planking along the bulwark top for the oar positions.

Easy to say, not so easy perhaps to achieve.

There is nothing to support these thin strips and they should follow uniformly the curve of the hull.

 

The kit arrangement is a simplification, presumably due to scale. In reality there would be tholes to secure and take the pressure of the oars, and against which the temporary wash boards would be secured.

8224

To try and add a tad more realism to the set up I fitted strips  between the frames along the inner hull to support the tholes.

 

Admittedly I am doing this as an exercise to see if I can, and it does extend the build time which means I don’t have to think about another one.🙄

 

The thole positions are marked and the process can begin.

8234

The wash strakes at the Bow are attended to first, these are heat treated to follow the hull before fitting against the first thole.

8244

With that done the next thole can be fitted with a 1.25mm spacing, and so on.

 

8241

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I will continue to fit the wash boards and hope it all turns out ok. The danger will be when I come to clean it all up, whether these delicate pieces will hold in place.

 

B.E.

27/08/2022

 

 

 

 

 

[shipman]

This will be a charming set of boats.

Enjoying your journey (as I now take for granted the level of skill, knowledge and presentation of all your projects).

Thank you once again for your time and effort; most of all for sharing.

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you shipman, for your kind words and support of my logs.

I do enjoy doing this stuff as part of the modelling experience, and it's good if others find it of use.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One hundred and Sixty-one.

 The Launch – completion

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Busy, busy, in the workshop, a case of spot the the boat.

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With the wash-boards attached a fair bit of cleaning up is required, but overall  I am satisfied that the modification was worth it.

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The Rudder

The final addition; as with the other boats I put the kit arrangement aside in favour of  a working rudder using the typical long pintle at the lower end.

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The long pintle is silver soldered using a fine brass eyebolt and pin.

8255(2)

A brass micro tubing sleeve  is used to give support where it fits into the lower stern post.

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The long pintle is particularly important  in relation to the Launch as to work the Davit the rudder would need to be removed quickly and easily.

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If the rudder is shown in place, then the Davit is stored in the Stern-sheets.

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 If the Davit is shown in place, then the Rudder is not fitted, it would be taken onboard.

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For display purposes I will have the Davit in place as it is a launch specific fitting.

8276(2)

With ten days labour I think I’ve had my moneys worth out of the Launch kit, a lot of modifications in one small hull.

 

8279(2)

Two down, one to go.

 

 

B.E.

29/08/2022

 

[Blue Ensign]

For the past couple of weeks, I have been busily trying to complete the Yawl, which is now all but done.

 

Sphinx is now back in her case whilst we decamp to the Lake District for a spot of hill walking.

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Deciding how I will display the completed model is something occupying my thoughts.

 

 

B.E.

09/09/2022