Erycina by James H - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Plymouth Ketch-Rigged Trawler - protoype build

[James H]

Erycina was a Plymouth Ketch-Rigged Trawler, launched as a cutter in 1882 and converted to a Ketch in 1894. This is one of three next subjects from Vanguard Models, following on from their previous Fifie and Zulu fishers. I'll be starting build logs for the other fishers when I'm ready. One of those, Nisha, will be built concurrently with this one. Out of Erycina and Nisha, Erycina is the large one, as you'll see from a cut test prototype in a photo below. Again, construction is an MDF core, with lime/pear planking and an engraved maple deck. There will be sail sets available for these.

Here is Erycina!

Here's some photos of the initial test prototype which is refined to make the production parts. Erycina is of course the larger vessel:

 

My HMS Sphinx is now in the last days of work, so I'll be taking a day or so off afterwards to indulge in my PlayStation5 and mindless killing in Assassin's Creed, then work on this will begin. Until then, here are the parts (minus planks).

 

 

More when I have it  

[James H]

oh...and this has shrouds and ratline too 😝

[yvesvidal]

Another beautiful ship from a renowned designer. Cannot go wrong....

 

Yves

[ccoyle]

I like the subject choices!

[James H]

Oh, this little sheet of 0.6mm pear was missing from my original parts pictures.

 

[James H]

Work on this is progressing swiftly, especially when you consider that I've not got to the same stage with Nisha over the last couple of days.

 

All photos are from the manual, but here I've done no re-cropping, but simply resized the originals for MSW.

 

Both of these new fishers are designed to be very simple to build and there's actually less planking involved than the Zulu and Fifie. Construction is very much the same, with similar stern timbers as seen on Sphinx. In fact, these also have the little safety gates that strengthen the parts until you can safely remove them. 

 

Just a small selection of the SIXTEEN bulkheads on this little model. You can see that bevelling lines are also included. 

A Dremel is used to make short work of these. In fact, it took only 30 mins to bevel all parts on this model.

The keel. Note that all slots are numbered too, so you really shouldn't get the positions of individual bulkheads wrong! All bulkheads are dry-slotted into the keel.

The bearding parts are now bevelled and fitted into position. These are also pinned into the keel to ensure the correct positions.

The lower deck serves the purpose of simply holding the bulkheads in position and also for masts etc. that will plug down into it. This is now slotted into position, again without glue. Note that engravings show which is the front and TOP.

 

Four bulkheads into which the lower deck were slotted, are now filled in with these pieces that strengthen the overall skeleton. These are glued into place.

The longitudinal deck beams are now dry-slotted into place. Builders of the other VM kits will be familiar with this approach. 

Midship bulkhead doublers are now glued to either side of bulkhead #9.

 

The stern timbers are now slotted into position, 3 on either side of keel, and these are identified with INNER, MIDDLE and OUTER engravings. 

 

The hull is now turned over and a slightly diluted Titebond is brushed into the joints. As this model has so many interlocking joints, this is a good approach to take so you know glue won't be setting are you're working through the hull. It also gives you some time to make sure everything is to your liking before committing to glue. The hull is now left a couple of hours for the glue to penetrate and set.

The ply deck is now fitted, engraved face upwards. This just needs to bend slightly to lock into the bulkhead ears at one side before snapping down into the other side. No amendment is needed at all here and the deck lies perfectly flat over all bulkheads. Not even any sanding of the sheer is needed before fitting! Small clamps are used to hold the rear deck down onto the stern timbers. Next up is fairing and planking.

 

More soon....

 

[Kevin]

Another masterpiece from the james and chris duo

[Jasseji]

each next VM kit seems to have better and better solutions 

[BobG]

5 hours ago, James H said:

You can see that bevelling lines are also included. 

 

5 hours ago, James H said:

A Dremel is used to make short work of these. In fact, it took only 30 mins to bevel all parts on this model.

 

Having these beveling lined included is so helpful as it takes away a lot of the uncertainty of roughly beveling the bulkheads and the bearding line off the model before the final fairing. Is there any particular reason that these lines are not included in the larger Vanguard models like the Flirt and the Sphinx?

 

Also, what are the overall dimensions of these wonderful models?

[James H]

53 minutes ago, BobG said:

 

 

Having these beveling lined included is so helpful as it takes away a lot of the uncertainty of roughly beveling the bulkheads and the bearding line off the model before the final fairing. Is there any particular reason that these lines are not included in the larger Vanguard models like the Flirt and the Sphinx?

 

Also, what are the overall dimensions of these wonderful models?

 

I think with Sphinx taking a full day to produce, adding more to it wouldn't be beneficial (especially in cost to the customer), plus it's sort of reckoned that if you are building at Sphinx level, that you can work out any rough bevelling quite easily. The manual does show that bevelling, so the builder isn't really in the dark, so to speak. 

 

Ok, dimensions:

 

Erycina, with masts and bowsprit is 525mm long x 379mm high

 

Nisha, with masts etc. is 387mm long x 311mm high

[BobG]

8 hours ago, James H said:

Erycina, with masts and bowsprit is 525mm long x 379mm high

 

Nisha, with masts etc. is 387mm long x 311mm high

 

These smaller models are a welcome addition to the Vanguard line. I've always admired the realism that a very good diorama can add to the display of a model and I would like to try and make a diorama someday. One of these working fishing boats could be a really good choice for a heavily weathered model set in a rugged, North Sea diorama. 

Edited September 15, 2021 by BobG

[EKE]

I can’t tell you how excited I am for these kits!  I just love the look of these working craft, and I can’t wait to build them so they can take a place next to my Zulu.  

[EKE]

Question for Chris and James:  will sails be offered for Erycina and Nisha?

[robdurant]

James posted this in the sister thread (Nisha) "All I currently require for this one is the photo-etch and sails" on Sep 8th, so I'd think yes.

[chris watton]

I am expecting the sample sail sets for both Nisha and Erycina within the next two weeks. Once I have them, I will post over to Jim.

 

Plans will show drawings for both rigged with and without sails. (There are 15 A1 sized plan sheets for Erycina, and am now working on plan sets for Nisha..)

[EKE]

Great news!  Thanks Chris.

-E

[niwotwill]

I've been following this build with great anticipation as I'm tired of decks filled with guns. While following I became interested in the Vanguard kit of the zula Lady Isabella. Not knowing about drifters and especially Scottish drifters caused me to web search drifters. Being my wife is of Scottish heritage as her mother was born in Kilmarnock drifters consumed me so much I ordered the Lady Isabella kit. I just wanted to take the time to tell all and thank Chris for the OUTSTANDING service and looking at the kit it is evident why others rave about his kits. I ordered my kit on November 2 and it arrived on November 5. What is amazing is I live in Gilbert Arizona and that's 3 day from the UK.

[James H]

Work has been ploughing on with Erycina, alongside Nisha. The masts for both are actually built, but I'll post those on the next and final update for both logs.

 

Again, fairing the hull is one of the single most important prep stages. Take time to get this right! Erycina has 16 bulkheads, so there's plenty of real estate for your planks to plonk onto.

 

The three part inner 2mm keel is now fitted.

 

 

Erycina's bulwarks are in halves, and this makes them nice and easy to fit. Align the bulwark so the lower engraved line is at deck height. Add all 4 sections and let dry.

 

 

Like Nisha, a lower counter is used to attain the shape needed for this nippy little boat.

 

All planking that butts up to the counter, is added as halves. It's just easier that way so you don't get any gaps.

 

 

The stern board is added. Note the engraved lines which perfectly line up with the stern timbers.

 

 

Preparation is ALL!

 

 

The outer counter is now fitted, and the outer keel facings fitted. The latter creates the rabbet for the second layer of planks. 

 

 

The second layer starts with the outer pear bulwarks. With these in place, the lower hull can be planked.

 

 

A small bevel to the lower underside of the stern frame, and it fits great!

 

 

Time for those MDF bits to go. These are twisted off and sanded flush.

 

 

The only thing I needed to do to get the laser engraved deck to fit was to remove the edge char. It was then glued into position.

[James H]

As with Nisha, the inner bulwarks are engraved with timberhead positions, with the first being 'A'. The pre-cut timberheads just need cleaning up and the bottom bevelled accordingly.

 

 

More fitting out as the stern 'bench' is fitted. 

 

 

Where timberheads are fitted with a rail, they are adjoined with a temporary beam which makes sure the spacings are correct for these. Once in place and dry, the beam can be snipped away.

 

 

A sanding stick makes short work of neatening up the tops of the bulwarks, levelling them in relation to each other.

 

 

Before the gunwales are fitted, the model is masked and the upper bulwarks airbrushed in green.

 

 

Gunwales now fitted.

 

 

Before we splash some real colour onto the hull, a waterline is first added which runs along the top line of the white boot.

 

 

Prep is king here as the hull is filled and sanded. Any imperfections are fixed. A coat of primer is added and it that shows anything further, that is also fixed until I'm happy with the result. This could take all day to do but it's worth the effort.

 

After a final coat of white, 3mm flexible tape is added along the edge of the masking and the hull then sprayed in red oxide. When even and dry, all tape is removed.

 

 

🐟 enter here ➡️

 

 

Stairway to heaven.

 

 

And a nice companionway to gimme shelter.

 

 

Main sheet housing assembly.

[Matt D]

Beautiful work, James.  I'm impressed by how well your masking went.  You must have had the 3mm tape absolutely perfect to avoid bleeding of the red paint at the top of the white.  Good job!.  How is the lettering done?  Did it come with the kit or was it something you added?

[chris watton]

15 minutes ago, Matt D said:

Beautiful work, James.  I'm impressed by how well your masking went.  You must have had the 3mm tape absolutely perfect to avoid bleeding of the red paint at the top of the white.  Good job!.  How is the lettering done?  Did it come with the kit or was it something you added?

Lettering and stern nameplates are waterslide decals, I had Eduard produce them for me, so they are included in the kits (Erycina and Nisha)

[Rik Thistle]

Where timberheads are fitted with a rail, they are adjoined with a temporary beam which makes sure the spacings are correct

 

That's clever 😉

 

Richard

[James H]

The main sail housing is now fitted. All of these items have either engraved lines or slots for fitting.

 

 

After priming, all the 3D parts were painted in green, to match Erycina's outer bulwark. You can use whatever colour you like, but this sort of green was quite common for the period.

 

And of course, the steam winch. This is exactly the same sort fitted to Nisha.

 

 

 

Deck fittings ongoing.

 

 

Three chimneys on this one, as opposed to two on Nisha. This one is quite a bit larger than Nisha, and looks more purposeful, in my opinion. Both are quite beautiful though. 

 

 

The next log entry here will be the last for Erycina, in around a week.

[Blue Ensign]

The dream team, Jim and Chris and two  fine additions to the Vanguard collection.

Great stuff.

 

B.E.

[niwotwill]

Great work James. The finish you did with the planking is amazing. Airbrush painting without planking lines and imperfections is an art you've mastered.

Couple of questions:

Before we splash some real colour onto the hull, a waterline is first added which runs along the top line of the white boot. I'm not familiar with the term "white boot" help please

When masking for the red oxide did you first use 3mm flex tape to follow the waterline and then sections of wider tape to cover the balance? After that did you add 3mm flex tape adjacent to the earlier 3mm tape to create the white waterline stripe?

 

Your technique is very impressive and the results are amazing.

 

 

[James H]

5 minutes ago, niwotwill said:

Great work James. The finish you did with the planking is amazing. Airbrush painting without planking lines and imperfections is an art you've mastered.

Couple of questions:

Before we splash some real colour onto the hull, a waterline is first added which runs along the top line of the white boot. I'm not familiar with the term "white boot" help please

When masking for the red oxide did you first use 3mm flex tape to follow the waterline and then sections of wider tape to cover the balance? After that did you add 3mm flex tape adjacent to the earlier 3mm tape to create the white waterline stripe?

 

Your technique is very impressive and the results are amazing.

 

 

Yes, the hull was primed and painted white, then the flex tape was run along the waterline, just under the masking tape. That kept the strip white while I sprayed red oxide onto hull.

[BobG]

These are wonderful additions to the Vanguard line of models! It's so nice to see some new models of these types of hard working vessels. They are too often overlooked in favor of the more elaborate and popular warships. Keep'em coming!

[chris watton]

There is certainly more to these than the Fifie and Zulu, even the diminutive Nisha has already surpassed those in page count for the main manual, and have not even finished that yet!

 

Just because they're smaller doesn't mean they have less fidelity of detail, and because they may attract more beginners also doesn't mean corners being cut to keep prices down (the market is already awash with such products). They will not be the cheapest 'first or second kit' on the market, but I bet most will enjoy building them and, more importantly, finish them, before giving up in frustration. This is why everything is so important, from the materials and fit of parts, to the very important manual.

 

Love what Jim has done with the livery of these!

[Kevin]

she looks fantastic

[chris watton]

Forgot to mention, all laser cut sheets for this and Nisha have the part numbers etched next to each part. Not on the PE sheets though, as space was way too tight. (numbers would have had to be so small in order to fit, they would have been next to invisible)

 

Also, the bulkhead tabs now taper inwards, going up, to make the fitting of the ply sub deck easier (less bending) - and for the bottom edge of each keel, there is a slot (hidden once the pear outer keel rabbet patterns are fitted) to locate to a tab on the rear cradle. This ensures the model sits at the correct angle, and also ensures the hull doesn't slide down the stand, as both are angled relative to waterline.