Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build

[Jim Lad]

A great idea to leave all the extraneous detail unobtrusive, Chuck.

 

John

[Jim Rogers]

3 hours ago, Chuck said:

 

One of the benefits of working at 1/32" scale is of course the size.  I think its easier to handle the parts and keep things neat and tidy.  But in addition to that you can really get a lot of details in there.  Stuff I would never attempt to add on smaller scales.  Further, 1/32 and better yet 1/35 scale is a very popular modeling scale.  There are so many aftermarket parts and details available for builders at this scale.  This includes figures and accessories.  Like the small cups and pitcher.   Its all readily available on Etsy or Ebay.   Its also fun to just look.   I am waiting on a few other things I made add.  

 

The barrels are Syren barrels.   I am also getting some new ones in stock I think you guys will like.   It might be a while though.

 

The checker is still very tiny but that is laser cut by me including small very teensy checkers.  The stools are also laser cut in cedar and very differnt from the cushy chairs in the great cabin for the officers.

 

The cups and tea cups and teapot are all 3d prints from EBAY.  They were cheap and there are so many to choose from....you can add crates and boxes full of food and pots and pans and utensils. Its really just up to you and how much fun you might want to have with it.

 

The officer in the great cabin is from Vanguard.  It had a tall hat so I removed that and just shaped some hair in the traditional pony tail of the day.   I didnt want to really paint these items as I want them to all fade into the background.  I want to keep it all very suggestive and simple.   So rather than paint everything with realistic coloring with all the uniform colors and fanfare,  I am just finishing all this stuff as if it was wood color...and carved.   Its a minimalist approach so the ship itself takes center stage.  But it will all be covered and just barely visible when the decks are planked.  But still you might just get a glimpse and a happy surprise if you look hard enough.   I think it will be fun.

 

I do actually have a few more 1/32 and 1/35 scale odds and ends coming in the mail.    We shall see if they make the cut and I add them to the model.  I dont want to over do it.  For all you guys who would do the same...try and stick with 1/35 scale details.  They are plentiful and just a tad smaller and look better on the model.

 

 

Chuck

 

 

Those quarters look tight. Where was his rack?  Hammock? Sleep on table top?

[Gregory]

With checkers up forward, surely you must have chess in the Captains cabin.  😁

[Pirate adam]

I really like the idea of having a few figures and leaving them brown or grey.  It reminds me of a lot of history displays in museums etc. 

 

Adam

[Chuck]

13 hours ago, Jim Rogers said:

Those quarters look tight. Where was his rack?  Hammock? Sleep on table top?

Not back in that cabin….take a look at the original draft.   The captains stateroom is on the lower platform….an even smaller space.  These were small vessels and working mainly coastal.  
 

Smaller crew and even smaller spaces.  Heres a look at the original draft and cabin spaces.

 

 

 

[sfotinos]

Chuck wasn’t lying, there is lots of wood!

 

Shawn

[bdgiantman2]

Interesting provision of early drawings there, Mr. Passaro as well as Greg. Looking those prints over, I am curious about that sail room. Not only does it look extremely small, but folding those sails to fit in that small room would have been heavy and cumbersome.  My suspicion is that there is more of the sail room under the forecastle deck allowing the sails to fold and store more easily. Am I on the right track?

 

Brian D

[Stuntflyer]

Shawn, You're good to go. I'm looking forward to seeing your build log.

 

Mike

[sfotinos]

Hopefully by this weekend.

[Rustyj]

1 hour ago, sfotinos said:

Hopefully by this weekend.

I'm looking forward to it!

[bwross11]

Chuck,

I've got to say, your wood skills are nothing short of amazing!  I have read through all your build logs a couple of times and still can't get over the precision and clean lines.  I doff my hat to you sir!

 

I do have a question, if I may.  I am particualry curious as to your process of removing the char from the edge of the laser cut components? 

 

thanks

Bruce

[Chuck]

Thank You.   

 

12 hours ago, bwross11 said:

I do have a question, if I may.  I am particualry curious as to your process of removing the char from the edge of the laser cut components? 

There is really no trick here.   Its just sanding mainly.  I use a coarser grit first to get the main stuff off.   Most often 220 0r even 100 grit.   I throw the paper away as soon as it gets loaded with char.  Otherwise it just makes the wood dirty.   Then I switch to a finer grit of about 320.   There are occasions where I also initially scrape the char off with a straight razor or #11 blade carefully without damaging the wood.   Then follow up with 320 grit.   A few passes and then blow the dirty char dust away so you dont push it around the wood making it dirty again.   

 

That it really.  The real trick is that I design every piece knowing that you and I have to remove the char and so it is very slightly larger than the sanded size.   Otherwise like most other kit mfgs the part becomes too small.  Hence the hesitancy of folks to sand so much.  But not with the parts for this model or any other I have designed.   If the part is too fragile however I may just go with a few passes of 320 or finer and then just paint the piece to look like wood.

[bwross11]

Thank you Sir, I appreciate the detailed explanation.  I will have to keep the size factor in mind as I get into the sanding process.

 

Best,

[JeffT]

I think the key to not removing too much material is to let the sandpaper or stick do the work. No need to apply a lot of pressure when sanding.

[JFMJr]

I'm on my first build,  HMS Beagle.  My background,  have built all cabinetry for the 8 houses I built  (yeah, I'm an old guy.) Sanding is also a skill needing the proper type and gr. Your info here should be helpful to many! 

[Chuck]

Work continues on the forecastle area.   With those first two beams in position I can now start working on the bulkhead that sits against them.

 

In this first picture,  I am just test fitting the three sections of laser cut bulkhead.   These (like all others)  are laser cut slightly wider and taller than needed.  

 

First...work on getting a nice fit on the center section between the riding bits.  Only worry about the width on both sides...dont worry about the height of these yet.  The two pieces on either side are next...sand the outboard side ONLY to reduce the width and get a tight fit against the riding bitts.  There will be a space between the frames and the bulkhead where the inboard planking would have been.  Try and make it a consistent width.  Again dont worry about the height.

 

Only after you get the widths taken care of should you then sand the top of each bulkhead section down so the height is flush with the top of the lower beam.  The photo shows the three sections with a proper fit all around...now its time to detail them.

Remove the three sections so you can add the uprights and simulated deck beam.  First up...sand the char from the laser cut beam pieces.   These are glued to the top edge of each bulkhead flush.  They are laser cut longer than needed so you can sand the sides flush as well.

 

Then the uprights go in position.  These are the uprights for the cabins on the lower platform.  We will be adding them a little later.  But it is easier to add these now.  They are just 1/8" x 1/8" strips cut to length and glued in place.  There are laser etched lines that show you exactly where they should go.   

 

Then glue the three sections in position permanently on the model.  Note the riding bitts will not be glued on permanently yet.  They will just get in the way when we are doing so many other things in this chapter.  So make sure you can remove it after the three sections are glued in place.

 

Riding bitts removed.

 

Now for the next layer above that.   this is handled in the exact same way.   I could have just included these on the first three section only a bit taller, but I wanted to be able to paint them cleanly and get a crisp edge.  But the same principle applies here.  Sand the widths of each first....then get the heights done.  These are flush with the top of the fcastle deck beam.   Then remove them.....

 

Paint them red.   Then add the laser cut and etched molding along the top edge.   The molding was rounded off on top and bottom.  You could also scrape your own if you want to.  

 

Then sit this on top of the lower sections of bulkhead as shown below.  The riding bitts are still removable but you must use them to get a good fit.  Glue these bulkhead sections in position now as well.

 

 

Top this off with the margin plank along the beam.  Cut a 1/4" x 3/64" strip for this.  Basically, just like you added for the quarter deck margin plank.  It hangs over the bulkhead a little bit.   The aft edge hanging over is rounded off a bit to your liking.   The forward side will leave a nice ledge or rabbet for the fcastle deck planking.

 

The only difference here is that you must notch out this plank for the riding bitts.

 

see below.   Also the riding bitts are not yet glued in position...I will let you know when its best to glue that in position.  BUT I did finally glue the fire hearth in place permanently.   Just remember to do so without its stack.  That will just break off later without a doubt.  And if you want to add anything else to the galley...do it now.   We are about to close her up for good with deck beams and knees, etc.

The three fcastle deck beams were cut to length and are just resting on the deck clamps.  I must locate their exact positions using the plans.

 

 

Thats it for now...BUT I did get a chance to cut the plan sheet up to see how my planking design will look.  Its always tricky deciding how much planking to add or leave off the model.  I think I am liking this particular cut-away with some planking removed.  You can still see quite a bit of stuff down there...

 

The hearth stack was just placed on top for giggles and a test.

 

 

I also did the same for the quarter deck...once again plenty of detail is still viewable down there.   I will live with these templates for a while and mull over some other possible planking schemes.  But so far I think these will do just nicely.  What do you think?

 

[Jim Lad]

All up to your usual standard, Chuck.

 

John

[CiscoH]

i like the shape of the tombstone cutaways.  very elegant

[knightyo]

I see a recipe for kittens with a cat in both bow and stern;  I see that one of them also knocked one of the checkers. down. 

 

I also like the tombstone cutaways.  Everything looks fantastic.

 

Alan

[JeffT]

I think the planking looks just right.

[Rustyj]

The planking looks great and still leaves a good visual of below.  

[druxey]

Nice classic model appearance with those cutaways. A hit, I think.

[Chuck]

Just a heads up for those building the kit.  Jim Rogers caught a error on the labeling of parts.  It is now corrected.  But you will find that there are two sets of frame parts AF.....The taller set is actually AF.  The shorter set is mislabeled.  Those are actually 10A.  Good catch Jim....thank you.  The parts are actually fine.   The one set is just mislabeled.  So grab your parts and correct the label on the shorter set before you get that far.   Label them as parts 10a.

 

You will find them on sheet "M" of laser cut parts.   Those need to be relabeled.

 

Chuck

[Chuck]

Just a heads up...I have decided to make the plan sheets for this project available electronically.  Many have asked for an additional set so they can cut them up or so they can have a clean extra set.  Although I am printing them and including them with each appropriate laser cut installment,  some folks may be worried about stretching and or shrinking of the folded paper plans provided as well.   So to ensure there are no issues they are available electronically and can be printed on your own for a spare set to cut up as well.  I routinely cut them up myself to use for templates and such.  Since no framing parts are included there really isnt a concern that this will lead to copying of my kit design.  Not all laser cut parts are shown on the plans...for good reason.

 

So here are the first three....plan sheets completed.  The remaining will be added to my website once I am sure they are OK, after I build those areas of my prototype.

 

They are also available on my website

 

speedwellsheetone.pdf

 

speedwellsheettwo.pdf

 

speedwellsheetthree.pdf

 

 

 

 

[Rustyj]

Thanks Chuck. Just what I was looking for! Great to have the smell of AYC in the shop again. 

[sfotinos]

I can confirm that the smell is amazing!

shawn

[Chuck]

Lots of drafting to do....Deck Layouts almost completed.

[Chuck]

The fcastle deck beams were glued into position .  The knees, carlings and ledges for the hatches were added as per the usual.  The knees are laser cut and just need some sanding to get a tight fit against the frames.  The ledges and hatch framing is completed with 1/8 x 1/8 strips.  Cut them to length and follow the framing plan.   

 

To finish off the fcastle for now...the ladder was made for the companionway on the starboard side.   You can just make that out in the photo.   This is as far as I will take the fcastle which matches where I left off on the poop deck.

 

So this completes chapter six believe it or not.   Chapter seven begins with the few cabins and sail room on the forward lower platform.   More to come on that soon I hope.  But I have to start laser cutting some more chapter sets and making more rope.    Having a real job stinks....what I wouldn give to hit the numbers tonight, LOL.

 

Chuck

 

 

[Chuck]

 

More details inboard...sneak peak...

[druxey]

Lovely work, Chuck, but what the heck is that officer doing forward in the galley? Warming his hands?