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dgbot

Gone, but not forgotten
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Everything posted by dgbot

  1. I think it depends on what you are working on and doing. I have done both on my model. Where structural integrity or fine detail is needed I silver solder. For everything else I use an iron. There are several videos on Youtube on the subject and I think one of them was showcased somewhere on this forum. David B
  2. I remember at Manitowoc one year a guy brought in a French frigate with a great looking hull that confounded me a bit. I struck up a conversation with him and he said that he followed French practice and rules for both planking and framing and showed the manuscripts that he used for reference. I was used to American and English practice. It was really different. And the judges later told me that was a good point for his knowledge and skill. I admire your tenacity and skill in your planking you are doing a fantastic job. David B
  3. Please keep up informed how the 3d parts stack up to photo etch. This may be a new and useful tool for our hobby. David B
  4. I am from the great state of Iowa and lived in Des Moines. So I will be looking in every now and then. And hopefully learn something at the same time. Good luck. Who is going to be your go to for the hardware or are you going to make it yourself? David B
  5. Nice job Jim. The Prit really looks spiffy. I would love to see it at Manitowoc when finished your finish really enhances the planking. David B
  6. Since there are no color photos or paintings go with the color of the era. I am sure everything will work out. You are doing a great job. David B
  7. I have always tried to visualize making a good file now that I have seen it am grateful. That is a craft that probably has to be learned and while a machine can punch and groove it cannot read the steel and know how to correct any problems that come up. David B
  8. Brian you are doing a great looking ship proud. I have seen a few Niagaras at Manitowoc and I think yours would be an eyestopper and I would be all over it with my camera. David B
  9. Outstanding job Marc. Too bad I cannot be up close to eyeball it. This might sound like a crazy question but why are you using spackle after using the wood filler? Wouldn't that give you a smooth hull? David B
  10. Fantastic job Boyd. I personally do not like ratlines. Too much patience and a steady hand to do a decent job. David B
  11. Looking good mate. What is the shade you painted the mast. I think that is a perfect color for it. David B
  12. Nice job Ed. I thought my windlass was decent but after seeing yours I do not want to look at it to closely. David B
  13. Looking good Matt, If you decide on sails I think that if you furled them the effect would be perfect. David B
  14. Mehmet, several years ago I was able to attend a seminar and talk by Shep Paine R.I.P. And he offered some good advice on weathering. It this "What is the effect or scene you are trying to achieve. Is it a tug or a trawler that just got back or something that has been abandoned. I was able to go to the Mariner's Contest years ago and saw a diorama that blew me away. It was of a coast guard ice breaker in the North Atlantic in Dec. The weathering was subtle but the longer you looked the more you could see. The vessel was seaworthy but ice and frost made you shiver in sympathy. David B
  15. Unless you are doing a yacht or pleasure boat you would use a matt or semigloss finish. David B
  16. I have never seen a completed kit of the Emden this should very interesting, Mind if I pull up a chair? David B
  17. Buy what will be easiest and comfortable for you. Metric is European and Empirical is here in the states, If the plans and scales you are working with are standard go standard. If metric go metric. Where I used to work we always converted to decimals for measuring and set ups. But errors could always creep in. I think you will be happy going the metric route. Less converting and easier to scale. David B
  18. If you feel comfortable painting them go ahead. I think they would look good. David B
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