gjdale

Congratulations on a truly fine model Len. Whether you subsequently come back and rig her or not, she remains a real beauty. What's next for you then?

Very nicely done, as always, Danny.

Thank you Patrick and Marc. I seem to have finally made a bit of progress attaching string this weekend! First up, here's the Mizzen Pinrail with lines attached. The mast cleats that I removed from here have been relocated to the Belfry, because reading ahead, I realised that I was going to need these and as usual the kit hadn't provided for them. This weekend I have managed to fit: Topsail Sheet and Clue Lines to both Fore and Main lower yards. Leech Lines and Bunt Lines (Fore Lower Yard) Spritsail Yard Brace Spritsail Topsail Yard Brace Topsail Yard Reef Tackle (Fore) Topsail Yard Buntlines (Fore) Topgallant Sheet and Clue Lines (Fore) Topgallant Bunt Lines (Fore) The kit plans aren't too bad, once you figure out which line you are looking at. The only real issue is the belaying points - because the kit omits both shroud and mast cleats, it takes a while to figure out where the lines really need to go. Longridge has been indispensable for this. I also have to acknowledge Gil Middleton's excellent log. On one occasion, he was able to save me when even Longridge let me down! Thanks Gil. Pics - starting with Topsail Sheets and Clue Lines Edit: I put a number of labels on these pics, but when I resized the pics, I lost most of the annotations. Topsail Buntlines: Topgallant Sheet and Clue Lines: Topgallant Buntlines: A close up showing the underside of the Fore Top - it's getting quite busy under there! And finally, a couple of overview shots:

Beautiful! It wouldn't surprise me at all if that pump actually worked!

Really, REALLLY, nice work there Bob! Your pictures show just how cramped it would be working around that stove.

Very nice Vivian. I love the extra details and the "worm's eye" views. Great job!

Sounds like a great idea Patrick, but have you read the MSDS for this stuff? It looks particularly nasty - I hope you're taking suitable precautions including ventilation and eye/skin protection.

Sweet! Glad to hearing you're warming up over there, just as were starting to cool down over here.

Looking very nice John.

You're doing a fine job there Patrick. What I can't get over is how immaculately clean you manage to keep your ship. The First Lieutenant must be working the men extra hard!

Thanks B.E. - it's all your fault really Thank you too Lawrence.

Thank you all for the kind words and also the "likes". It's not so much the faces, Bindy, as the language - enough to make a true sailor blush!

Nice touch with the hammock battens Toni.

Just be extra careful not to bump or snag those masts or you'll end up as I did (twice) with a break right across that drilled hole! Such events are fixable though

Oooh! That can't be good Daniel - but I'm certain you will have a fix in mind!

Those stern bends sure look tricky Sjors. Looks like you've got it covered though. Progressing nicely.

Beautifully done Timmo. She is looking superb.

I'm with Wacko too - just speechless!

Just wonderful, as always, Remco.

That's a mighty fine looking rear end there Augie!

Looks like you're making some fine progress there Sean. The first planking does seem like it takes forever, but once it's done and sanded you'll feel a real sense of accomplishment at achieving a major milestone.

No, it looks like Kevin's, and that looks mighty fine to me! Re-work is just part of this process called model building Kevin (just take a look at mine for starters!). Don't let it get you down, you're doing a great job and will be well pleased you took the extra effort in the long run.

Hi all, Back home after a week away with work, and just enough time in the shipyard to address the Mizzen Mast pinrail question. I mentioned I'd come up with a cunning plan, and Danny picked it - that's exactly what I did.... First up, here is the starting point, showing the Mizzen mast with NO pinrail and with my scratch built mast cleats doing an admirable (if incorrect) job of securing the Truss Pendant tackle falls. First job then was to create a pattern for the pinrail. A relatively easy job using TurboCad, although I did do a little bit of fiddling to get the size/proportions to my liking. As I needed to construct this in four pieces (a la Danny's previous picture), I printed two patterns, cut them in half and glued them to a scrap piece of 1/32" boxwood: Then it was simply a case of cutting out and gluing together..........or was it? On my first attempt, I cut out the basic pattern with a scroll saw, glued it all up and then tried to drill the large centre hole (about 6mm diam) ................. and watched the entire piece disintegrate. On the second (and final) version, I used a cylindrical stone in my Dremel to first cut the half-circle in each of the four pieces (stone was just the right diameter), then cut the four pieces off on the Byrnes saw, then got them close to final shape with the Byrnes disc sander, before temporarily gluing up and finishing the final shape by hand with a sanding board. This proved much easier (and quicker) than using the scroll saw. After that I drilled the holes for the belaying pins and did a test fit: Then I soaked the entire assembly in isopropyl alcohol to separate the four pieces before carefully installing them around the mast. Here's the final product: Just waiting for the glue to set before re-attaching lines various. In the meantime, I managed to fit the Mizzen Topgallant Yard with Tye, Parral and Lifts. Once the lower yard lines are re-attached, I will have finished this stage of the rigging and will return to the Foremast to begin the process of attaching Clue Lines, Sheets and Braces etc. And of course the Driver Boom and Gaff will need to be fitted soon as well...............

Mike, You've pretty much covered all the options! If you stick with the kit supplied plywood, then soaking and clamping between two flat surfaces is the way to go (with the possible addition of some heavy weight on top). Replacing with new plywood is also a viable option. Replacing it with pear should be no problem either, strength wise (just check out some of the scratch builds where pear has been used for all of the framing/keel). Kits use plywood because it's cheaper.

Congratulations on the new toy Karl. I can't wait to see what masterpieces you produce with this!!!