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Everything posted by cog
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No dinner with friends it seems ... though your build progresses quickly. You should keep your head with it when drilling upside down. I use a file to ream holes in styrene, I presume you would need a rather large one to establish that on those big portholes ... never the less you managed well
- 446 replies
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- zebulon b vance
- deans marine
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Piet, you and Gwen have a happy and healthy 2019 too. I'll have to find me one of those shops to visit, through the internet I can't get the look and feel of it(!) thanks for the tip mate
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Feliz año nuevo
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Happy New Year to you, you got me another smile now you show your progress
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- cutty sark
- tehnodidakta
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interesting build. Hope you won't mind me following
- 197 replies
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- santa maria
- carrack
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San Francisco II by mtbediz - FINISHED
cog replied to mtbediz's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1501 - 1750
quite an improvement on the anchors- 59 replies
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- artesania latina
- san francisco ii
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nope nope it's mostly brass: Photo Etch yes those are the short answers PE is not paint, as stated above it is brass, or thin sheet metal which can be photo etched, It gives sharper details because it can be made much finer than plastic, although with modern techniques, details on plastic have improved. PE has the colour of the metal it's made of, but can be painted. Remove grease with e.g. vinigar, and spray with a good adhering primer. It is advocated to use Tamiya rattlecan primer by most model builders which work with the stuff. I do not degrease, but use Tamiya. So far I have good results. Furthermore, there are brass parts like barrels for turrets and AA guns which give a far better look than the plastic from the kit.
- 140 replies
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- the sullivans
- trumpeter
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I was wondering too why you didn't use paper, but you have clearified that. The bond between the wood and the plastic will be much stronger than the one when using paper. The only thing is, I would rather use a dark grey than black on a scale model
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You like to keep us on our toes, don't you ... Steven, you could 'ave spotted it by the hughe tower from Yamato.It doesn't fit the bill either
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Glad you're back and feeling better. Plunged right into the build I can say. Like the way the rivets turned out
- 599 replies
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- sidewheeler
- arabia
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Steven, although it is a wooden built you could use part of a sewing pin to pin or strengthen such pieces. if the wood is soft enough, you wouldn't even need to predrill
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Since Siggi wants to get to the bottom of this, I have a question concerning the watertightness of the gunports when not using Druxey's supported method. Wouldn't it be so that the oak used in constructing the timbers would result in a far less watertight closure (due to the rigidity of the wood) than when using a softer wooden lining as advocated by Druxey?
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Interesting questions, Mark - not all, and not only "famous" ships, the destroyer I build presently, and the ones before, are not really famous, although the type may be - it does e.g 1:200 , 1:350, 1:72, 1:24 (the latter two mainly airplanes) - he could, but he might miss some parts he used on his previous build. I used some of previous buids to enhance my builds even with the detailup set for that ship as I found it lacking
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- the sullivans
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Thanks Pat, much appreciated Added some ammo boxes, broke the top of the for'ard mast, so I've got some renovating to do. Whats left ... well ... working on the rear tripod, some touch up paintwork, the railings, a quad pompom which will arrive January next, rudder, anchors, need to give the hull a mat varnish, and after that the screws ... ah yes ... OC's favorite: rigging ... Still looking for some anchor chains at scale ... very hard to come by
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It seems you can't have both, and sharp edges and a turntable ... looks very good though. Just needs a bit of a distant view
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You should take a look a pre-dreadnaught and dreadnaught type warships ... maybe they just were afraid of loosing an anchor ...
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