Beef Wellington
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You can find a copy of Steele online along with some other interesting resources here in the public domain... http://www.hnsa.org/resources/manuals-documents/age-of-sail/ -
Dang Christian, you got there before me! But couldn't agree more. I wouldn't dream of doing something so potentially catastrophic as using the ink directly on the ship. Lovely progress by the way. I found that using overhand knots at either end of the ratlines and clove hitches in between works for me, and gave me the opportunity to put some 'sag' in the ratline which I was looking for. That seems to be another ratline question - 'sag' or 'no'sag'
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Mark, I think I may be in the same boat regarding my rudder needing some rework/movement of the recesses as well, I'm lucky that I can probably hide with copper plates. The new version does look better when put side by side.
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Mark, nice work. Love the shot of the bow, such really nice curves. Sure it was a challenge to plank.
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Doug - best of luck with your build, you look to be off to a really nice clean start. Definitely interested in seeing you move forward so I'll follow your progress.
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Finally finished the second planking! Starting to finish off the gunport openings and then will need a good final sand, taking this very slowly as there is no room for filler if I mess up. I took the planking a 1-2mm above the shaped bulkwarks to give me a little to play with in the future. The two sides are not quite completely equal, but close enough. Just goes to show that placement of the wale is key and despite my best efforts a little off... Model is getting now noticeably weighty, and I do tend to cradle on my lap rather than on the table. The inevitable happened and slipped resulting in a some damage after hitting the table. Nothing for it but to saturate with glue and leave to dry, but reasonably confident it should be fine.
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Mark - feel your pain but commend the redo, although the original really does look good. Licorne is really looking rather grand.
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Love the crowsfeet Sjors. Doesn't the euphroe also bring put a Dutch girl in amongst the animals? Believe the English word euphroe originally came from the Dutch/German jonge vrouw/junge Frau.
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Sjors, I'm not too sure those stays would have been served, only the end where it loops around the mast where the end loop goes over the mouse to prevent chafing. So think you can proceed with confidence Very nice rope by the way.
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Jesse- any pictures of the carronades? Curious how 'out' they are/look.. I'm far from the authority on the running rigging but a few books have been helpful to me (especially Lennarth Peterson - Rigging Period Ship Models which has nie simple pictures). My impression is that the rigging belaying points don't change if you're rigging with sails, its just whether they are bent to a sail or to the end of another line...I'm sure others can expand on my horrible description.
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Those are some very interesting photos of the artifacts Paul, thanks for sharing. Lovely ship you are building here, I'm also in the 'mostly manual tools' category so good to see the very nice results you have been able to achieve.
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Everything looks great from where I'm sitting Bob. Not sure I follow your comment about slightly larger loops.
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Can you start yet?
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Beautiful Nils, will be one stunning model.
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That's a really nice look ensign with very convincing 'folds', much better than the mass produced items. Well done Peter
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Good for you Sjors, sure you will be happier in the long run, at least you are not redoing the ratlines...
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Bow looks great Terry
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Nice progress Terry, the bulkheads look good, especially if the top of the bulkhead deck profile is flush with the keel former. I'd suggest taking another look at the filler blocks, its always hard to tell from the photos, but it looks like they may not be flush with the bow former ply pieces which would indicate the needed profile of the bow. If not, then I'd suggest either bulding these up more, or replacing the the balsa blocks.
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Hi Wayne - well, good question . I'm nowhere near being prepared to do a full scratch build, and it is more realistic for me to alter or adjust what is in the kit, knowing that I have the luxury of just using whats supplied if I want to to get a pretty decent result. I think its easy to be critical of kits, unfairly I think, which don't get it quite how we would like or expect. It reminds me of the phrase "standing on the shoulders of giants" I just seem to having a lot of fun trying to figure this out, however slow the progress.
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Phill, its hard to to provide you specific guidance with this kit, but from my experience this is one the trickier tasks that makes a big difference to getting the shape right. Typically on the kits, the front edge of the bulheads at the stern are the correct shape, and then you need to remove material behind it to get smooth line. I would use a sanding block (larger piece of wood wrapping sandpaper around it) to get a nice run. Start with coarser grain and gradually get finer. Sometime, the bulkheads do need some adjustment to get a smooth line building up or removing material), its something only you can judge. Bottom line, take your time until you get a result you are comfortable with the result. Laying a wood strip over the curves can help you see how the lines are developing and whether they flow well. I'd also suggest starting a build log if you haven't already. Best of luck.
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Very interesting Vitaly, will follow your progress.
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Dziadecek - in which reference did you see that coppering was done from waterline down, and for which time period? Many thanks
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Carl - what you see is my cardboard mock-up/template And no, I don't like the white windows...they're just cutouts from a photocopy of the kit PE to see exactly how they would look.
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