Beef Wellington
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Everything posted by Beef Wellington
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Beautiful Wayne, I love the detail work and paint lines on the head work, really very very nice. -
Hi Chuck, on a separate subject. Have you ever considered offering a stove kit? The mass produced items provided in kits are really not great at all, and think it would be possible to develop a 'kit' from laser cut items. Would have thought this could also be easily scaled between 1:64 and 1:48 and have quite a market as well. Just a thought...hoping the answer is yes
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- Queen Anne Barge
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Pat, you're really doing her proud, keep it up. Not too far away now!
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Thanks everyone for continued interest and support... "It" has started. I've been proceeding all along assuming that I would install a false keel visible beneath the copper plates as wonderfully shown on the Minerva model in the Annapolis museum. I installed the various false keel planks using swiss pear as I felt the more orange hue would blend better with the copper plates. I had intended to then copper to this false keel as per pictures below, which required the copper plates to be trimmed which I did with an exacto blade. But this would have resulted in a rather odd plate layout at the bow using the supplied plates which I didn't like. In the end, I decided to copper to the bottom of the false keel which was rather luckily pretty much exactly the width of a copper plate. This is how David Anscherl describes it in the FFM series so its good enough for me to justify this approach! Definitely still trying to get into a groove with attaching these with thick CA glue but pretty sure it will get easier...
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I like that jig Mark. One question that come to mind that I've been trying to think through. I would assume that the corner angles on the beams are not 90deg as the frames are effectively vertical but the deck has a curve. Are you shaping that on the jig or are you planning to introduce the right line once installed so the deck runs smoothly?
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What a fascinating project Chuck, you also seem to be cruising through this. Its amazing what can be accomplished with a laser cutter and some lateral thinking. Any estimates on a potential release date?
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You don't think the green wood plates would have looked better?? Seriously, those homemade plates look fantastic.
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Dockyard is still the victim of an ongoing labour dispute. Little bit of detail added onto the main deck, tried to simulate the deck clamps and the sheave blocks. The clamps were cut from a sheet of pear using a sharp blade and a ruler which seemed to work OK. The standards have also been added. Glad now I added in the sweep ports as it adds a nice touch of background detail with the deck on. Think I need to get on with the coppering, but do have some questions... Range cleats: The kit provides a huge 'block' for these which seem way over scale and don't look like a cleat (see bottom picture). The photo at the bottom shows these side by side with one of Chucks cleats (12mm). The FFM indicates the range cleats are 2' 9" which translates to about 13mm in real money at scale, very similar to Chucks. Would the size of these vary considerably between ships of different sizes. Thoughts? I'm leaning toward Chucks. Copper plates: Amati are very clear in providing left and right sided copper plates. I thought that British ships were coppered from the stern, forward and up which would suggest the visible edge nails would be on the aft and lower edges on the starboard side. Is that correct?
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Really nice pictures Mark, its amazing how a little colour and detail enhances the natural wood. Nicely done!
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- royal william
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Lever indicates the following order.... First the horses are put in the yards Yard tackle pendants are put on next Brace Pendants Lift block & sheet block
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Jesse - don't get discouraged. It's a marvel what you have done to build these scratch. If it's any consolation, carronades are just a pain to build, even using the CC aftermarket kits was a very time consuming, expletive laden experience so hang in there. On the flush decked ships they are so key to the overall look that you'll be glad you took your time.
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Wayne, that deck looks fantastic,a s does the rest of the hull now with a little colour to it. It must be great working at this larger scale and very satisfying, its almost like you're building the real thing with those planks.
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Bug - just caught up after you assumed this honourable task. You seem to have everything under control, so I'll pull up a seat. Best of luck, know you're up to it.
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Dave - what are you not happy with on the 20cw anchor? There should be two flat white metal flukes inside the packet which need to be glued on, I suspect because it gives more clean definition than molding the whole in one piece. I lost one of the flukes (my fault) and very simply made another from card, painted you can't tell the difference.
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I would LOVE the idea of any 'kit' POF kit with precute frame pieces - a definite buy as a stepping stone to fully scratch build.
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There should have been an announcement when you started Andy, I nearly missed it! Looks like you are pretty much caught up to me :-) Very nice start.
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I would have to make one request. Of course like everyone I'm biased by nationality and interest, but I think there are a couple of ships from the age of sail that are not represented in any kit form which seems a real hole in the market, I'm talking about HMS Trincomalee and the frigate Unicorn, both Leda class frigates and a very successful design - HMS Shannon of Chesapeake fame was also a Leda. Given the ships are still in existance I suspect that these would have a lot of interest similar to the other ships (or even replicas) that seem to generate so much interest. The class also crossed over the changes from the flat to rounded stern so could make for some very interesting modeling. Another interesting ship is the RRS Discovery (famous for Scott's ill-fated voyage to the South Pole) berthed in Dundee (within sight of Unicorn in fact) which again I think generates interest for its historic value and the fact that she is also still in existence. Preferred Scale - 1:64. I'm not retired so have a bit more flexibility with finances but believe in getting value for money and not just the cost side - current Caldercraft/Amati price point seem reasonable, however I prefer to pay extra for option of better wood, I'm tired of dealing with the ubiquitous walnut....
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Ah-hah, here you are! Thankfully you have just started, looking good so far.
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Mike - think you are dealing with the same issue that had my head spinning. My solution was to slap myself around the head a few times and ensure that I had left a little bit extra height that I could then come back and shave away once the the decorative pieces were in place to make it 'look' correct. Nice progress!
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Welcome aboard Tom, hope I can live up to your expectations! Kevin, nice to hear from you and the kind words. Not much has been happening in the shipyard recently, but I'll be back....
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My son built the smaller Hood - I can now appreciate just how huge that bad boy is!
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Cheers guys (Yes Mort, I can only imagine it getting heavier, especially with all the cannons in place as well!). Good news, the fix to the boo-boo turned out just fine. Lesson learned, so will be putting some protection on these delicate areas going forward. Not much to show for time but feel I need to get up to date. Lots of sanding sessions to get a nice shape, and the weather hasn't really been cooperating. Batten at the waterline has been installed. Tried thinning down some 1x1mm strip to approx. .5mm thickness but found that this was just too delicate a procedure, so thinned as much as possible and it was pretty easy to take more off once installed. Used PVA to attach which worked just fine as it develops a sufficient tack needed for this thin stuff, even in the curved areas which just required a few minutes of finger pressure. To help with this, I temporarily attached some scrap walnut strip to act as guides. Once in place, put on a single coat of wipe on poly to protect the surface and then used some walnut stain to colour below the batten. Although this will be coppered, think its better to have a darker surface in case there are gaps between the plates. Also started to put in place the oar and vent ports. Each needs to be individually shaped as I think it would follow the profile of the other planking. Getting a uniform (or as best I can) fit takes a bit of fiddling. Captain Sterling is keeping on top of things in his new nice new uniform.... And where things stand...
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Looks huge Jim! I can imagine the planking at the stern to be a little bit of a challenge.
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Feel your pain Hennie, think that the paint will be able to completely hide the fix.
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