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Beef Wellington

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Everything posted by Beef Wellington

  1. Really awesome work Joe, those close up shots really do her and your work justice...yet more to aspire to :-)
  2. Caldercraft now offer an 'Admiralty' stain in ebony...haven't used it yet, but would be an option. Looking great so far.
  3. That hatch coaming looks great Dave, especially with the lip. Something to maybe consider for the others is to use a simplified square dovetail joint between the end and side timber. On the plans I've seen manufacturers seem to draw these with 45 degree joints which wasn't the actual method of construction.
  4. Not sure if it helps you now Lucas, but I've found that if you seize the breech ropes to the eyelets off the model, you have more control over the end result. The eyelets can then simply be glued into pre-drilled holed once the guns are placed. You did a great job with your second effort, looks so much better.
  5. The rope loops look great Nils, especially all bunched together on the rail.
  6. Stergios, I think you want to have the futtock stave at approximately the same height as the yard (one purpose was to help keep the shrouds from interfering with the yards together with the catharpins). I followed the diagrams in 'rigging period ship models' rather than the plans to get it to 'look right. You want to avoid having them too low.
  7. Joe, she looks absolutely stunning, well done! I love the tone of the wood in the open air, shows your wonderful precise work off a treat. You should be very happy.
  8. Mort - I simply marked the top of a plank with a sharpy and ran it along the sheer of the deck so I would have a reference point when it came to marking the gun ports. Photo of the 'before' state is here which I think illustrates it best... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7219-hms-diana-built-as-hms-jason-1794-by-beef-wellington-caldercraft-164/page-7#entry270602
  9. Mort - yes, the aft edge of port 9 is against bulkhead #11, and the forward edge of port 8 sits next to bulkhead 10. I used these as the anchor points to determine the placement of all the ports forward and aft of these with a 30mm spacing.
  10. Glad you're back to it Jim, yards are looking good. See you took the same approach with the boom irons, the supplied cast metal loop around the yard seem way out of scale. The Amati PE fittings seem better than the CC solution. I've decided I need to build a display case before I can get back to my Snake to avoid dust issues. When will you get going onto Diana if that is next?
  11. Wes, sadly I'd missed your build up to this now, however, I'll be correcting that! Congrats on taking on such a challenging and I'm sure rewarding project, things look to be shaping up very nicely indeed. Will definitely be watching from here on in.
  12. Oh no, I think you may need to remake the rudder Eamonn, that one is all out of focus! Seriously, that rudder has a lovely shape to it, nice job.
  13. I used a simple overhand knot, but if I were to do it again I'd use a cow hitch.
  14. Wayne, very nice looking ratlines. Have to agree that the loops look just a little bulky. Did you consider using thinner line to do the serving to keep the same look? Using regular thread (would need to check exactly what) worked well for me following the dimensions on the plans - I was happy at least. Nothing like a nice stack of served shrouds/backstays, looks like mine ended about half way up but didn't think it looked too odd... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/509-hms-snake-by-beef-wellington-caldercraft-scale-1-64-first-wooden-ship-build/page-43#entry213341 Interesting that you picked HMS Pelorus as a candidate for next build, she was one of the few Cruizers that was ship rigged (at least for a period) so could be built directly from the kit and be authentic. Also some nice paintings to follow and refer to after the storm.
  15. Jonny, I'd double check the spacing on the ratlines, 1cm at 1:64 would be 64cm at full scale which seems a little much, think it should be closer to 4-5 mm. Easy solution would be to add a ratline between your existing ones.
  16. Forget exactly what I did, but I would advise fitting the futtock stave in the correct position before you do all of the ratlines - that would allow you to adjust slightly the separation of the ratlines so they finish correctly at the futtock stave. I just trusted my eye rather than working with scientific precision.
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