HMS Victory by gjdale - FINISHED - Mamoli - Scale 1:90

[Sjors]

Wow....

Now I really know what UFO's are........

 

[Jim Lad]

Just catching up, Grant.  great job on the boats.

 

John

[Moo]

Just catching up. Great re-do Grant! At the end of the day you've got to be happy with your own work and we get to enjoy the process (and output).

Cheers

Leanne

[HIPEXEC]

Nice work!

[gjdale]

Thanks Augie, Remco, Mobbsie, Mark, Sjors, John, Leanne and Rich for your kind words of encouragement, and also to all of the “likes”.

 

I’ve been quiet on this log for a couple of weeks, partly because I’ve been both back at work and back into hospital for some minor surgery (nothing serious), and partly because some more “learning” has taken place.  It has taken me a while to figure things out and have some real progress to report, but here I am at last with some learnings to share and some progress to show.  I will post this across three separate posts due to the number of photos (should keep “See Yours” happy )

 

25' Cutters Ver 2.0 (continued)

 

To start, picking up where we left off with Cutters Ver 2.0.  Things got off to a promising start, however the further I went, the less satisified I was with the result – mainly with the way the run of the planks was working out. I think I just plain got the garboard wrong, and it just sort of gradually snowballed from there.  A couple of things I learned along the way……

 

Lesson No.1 - because of the issues I was having with clamping, I decided to try using thick CA glue instead – never my preference as I tend to suffer an allergic reaction to it if I’m exposed to it for too long.  Anyway, it seemed to work pretty well, and of course enabled work to progress a little more quickly than waiting for PVA to dry.

 

Lesson No.2 - using at least two planks per strake makes it MUCH easier.

 

Here is the result of one of the Ver 2.0 Cutters. In this photo, it doesn’t look too bad, but viewed from the side, the planks at the bow look pretty ordinary.

 

 

I would probably have used this, had it not been for Lesson No.3…..

 

Lesson No.3 – No matter how good your preparation, never trust that glue will not stick to your plug.  Here is how the second Ver 2.0 Cutter came off the plug………

 

 

 

Lots of rude words out loud later………..

 

Thought about this for a couple of days and decided that a third attempt was called for.  Much of my method for Ver 2.0 was okay, but needed refinement, so I decided to call the next version, Ver 2.5.

 

25’ Cutters Ver 2.5

 

The first thing I did was to modify the keel assembly.  I decided to cut the keel in two pieces so that the stem was cut with the grain running diagonally for greater strength.  I even managed to cut a scarph joint!  I also decided to go back to my original idea of an extended apron that would become a hogging piece, with notches cut out for the frames.  I also notched the stern deadwood for the frames.  Here’s one of the new keel skeletons:

 

 

I then decided to modify the plug by carving a groove for the keel/apron assembly:

 

 

This made the keel assembly almost a “press” fit and certainly provided much greater lateral stability.  Here is a picture of the new keel in the modified plug.  In this picture the plug has been marked out for the run of the planks.  This worked out to be reasonable guide.

 

 

Continued next post…….

[gjdale]

25’ Cutters Ver 2.5 (continued)

 

An idea that I picked up from looking at the 18’ Cutter build log by MauryS, was to simply use some blue painters tape to help hold the keel in place on the plug.  This must have been serendipity, as I'd only just acquired some of this tape after watching some YouTube tutorials on using a scroll saw, where it was used underneath patterns due to it's low tack and lack of residue being left behind.  Because we’re using more than one plank per strake, it is easy enough to re-locate the tape for the next plank.  This is particularly important because of Lesson No.3 in the previous post!  As soon as a plank was glued in place, I would remove the tape, pop the keel out of the plug and check for any glue seepage before it became a problem.  This routine saved my bacon on more than one occasion later on.  Here you can see the blue painters tape with the fore part of the Garboard being fitted.

 

 

Another thing I noticed by studying Maury’s log was just how far forward the Garboard strake went.  Here you can see a close up showing that I have taken it almost to where the keel rises vertically.

 

 

And here is a shot showing the entire Garboard strake in place.

 

 

One problem I had with this version was that I no longer had enough sheet stock left to cut planks individually, so was limited to using some strip stock.  All of this planking was done with 3/32” wide Boxwood strip (1/64” thick), with the exception of the Sheer strake, for which I used 1/8" wide strip stock.  I found that once the planks were shaped, a quick dip in a glass of water (remember not to drink from THAT glass ) and the plank could be bent in the fingers roughly to final shape before fitting.  The heat from the fingers and the thinness of the planks meant that they dried out during this process.

 

Here’s a couple of pics of the second strake in place:

 

 

 

And here is one showing the hull starting to take shape off the plug (remember to remove from the plug after EVERY plank to check for glue seepage).

 

 

One important aspect with this style of planking is the bevel on the edge of the planks.  Both mating faces need to be beveled and this is best achieved with a small sanding stick (I use a flexible one similar to a nail file) prior to final fitting.  The other, somewhat more tricky part is to add the “rolling bevel”.  This occurs at both ends of the strake, where the bevel is reversed to allow for the “gain”, which is where at both bow and stern, the planks cease to overlap and lie adjacent to each other.  In this picture you can just make out the bevel on the upper edge of the second strake, with the rolling bevel occurring just as it rounds at the bow.

 

 

Continued next post…..

[gjdale]

25’ Cutters Ver 2.5 (continued)

 

All progressed reasonably well with the planking from here on, although I did need to make a couple of stealer planks that I would not have needed to do if I were cutting the planks individually from sheet stock.  Never mind – I think I managed to sneak them in in a not too obvious way.  The secret here was to really feather the ends of the stealers so that they blended with the adjacent plank.

 

Here’s a few photos of the completed planking.  The stem needs trimming and shaping, as does the transom, but the hard work is done.  While it could be better, I'm satisfied with the results here - they say the third time is the charm!

 

 

 

 

And just to prove that I was working on two at once:

 

 

 

I thought I’d throw these two photos in to show the real difference in hull shape between the Cutters and the Pinnace (the Pinnace is 3’ (actual) longer than the Cutters).

 

 

 

And finally, just for scale, here’s the obligatory picture of a Cutter in that giant fake hand…..

 

 

Next up, fitting out and painting.  Stay tuned……

[Captain Slog]

Incredible work!

 

Slog

[alangr4]

 

Persistence has paid off Grant.

 

V2.5 looks great.

 

The shot of you holding it in your hand really rams home how fiddly this work has been.

 

Well done.

 

Alan

[trippwj]

Truly amazing, Grant. Have you gone cross-eyed from working at that small size?

[rafine]

Grant, I am blown away by both your commitment to excellence and the quality of your work. The cutters are tiny gems.

 

Bob

[mobbsie]

Hi Grant,

 

I would like to start by asking if your surgery went well and that the 3rd  (Cyclops) eye is working perfectly, could be a bit difficult getting glasses or magnifiers to fit though. It amazes me the lengths modellers will go to.       

 

What you have achieved here mate is a testament to your skill and persistence, you are to be saluted Sir.

 

Really looking forward to the fitting out of these little beauts.

 

Thanks for the tutorial, really very informative.

 

Be Good

 

mobbsie

[gjdale]

Thanks Slog, Alan, Wayne, Bob and Mobbsie.

 

My wife tells me I'm stubborn. I prefer to think of it as persistence!

 

Wayne - not cross-eyed just yet, though did manage to finish each day with a thumping headache and the beginnings of a CA-induced allergic reaction.

 

Mobbsie - the surgery went very well, thanks for asking. It was another visit to the nasal surgery I had last year, though relatively minor by comparison. In fact, I needed no pain meds post-op, although it did take several days to fully get over the anaesthetic. Thanks for your comments on my narrative - I figured that if I learned a few things along the way, it might save someone else a bit of grief along the way, so why not share all the mistakes as well as the successes?

 

I'm looking forward to the fitting out now. Having done this twice already for the Launch and Pinnace, it should be a walk in the park. (Famous last words).

[augie]

Thank you for providing an excellent narrative with both failures and successes.  The final outcome was worth the effort.  The tips on the impact of garboard plank length and using shorter lengths of planks should be heeded for all hull sizes.

 

Well done, mate!  Now stay healthy.

[foxy]

Fantastic work on the pinnace, not had time yet(just arrived) to read your whole thread, but after seeing the last few pictures, I will be back to take this onboard for further viewing.

 

Maybe a coin would show folks how big/ small the work is in your pictures.

 

Cheers foxy

Edited August 17, 2014 by foxy

[mtaylor]

What the others have said.  I'm truly at a loss for words to describe my admiration for your work.

[gjdale]

Thanks Augie, Foxy, Mark and Lawrence.

 

Foxy - welcome aboard. Thanks for your suggestion re using a coin for scale. That is done by a few folks here, but the trouble is the multiple currencies in use. I'm not sure how many of our international viewers would be familiar with Australian coin size. The hand however (my last pic), while variable in size, is pretty universally understood.

[Remcohe]

Next to persistance, practice also pays off. Chapeau!

 

Remco

[Blue Ensign]

Great  job Grant, excellent stuff, a fine pair of Cutters. You've clearly demonstrated that important ship modelling basic of sticking with it until it comes right.

 

B.E.

[gjdale]

Thanks Remco and B.E.

 

Yep, persistence (or better still, sheer bloody mindedness) comes in real handy in this hobby!

 

Have to admit though, that the support and encouragement of all the fine folk here at MSW goes a long way too!

[gjdale]

Thanks again for all the words of encouragement and support, and for all of the "likes".

 

A brief update today.

 

25' Cutters Ver 2.5 continued

 

This weekend I completed fitting all of the previously bent frames.  This was a relatively straight forward job, although more time consuming than I had anticipated.  I was pleased with the way the frames fitted into the hull shells, with only a modicum of persuasion required. The frames are all 1/32" sq Pear stock, with the exception of the last three frames in each boat. These are made of a double laminate of 1/32" x 1/64" Holly stock.

 

I decided to fit a couple of extra hogging pieces so that these now run the complete length of the keel from apron to stern deadwood.  This should make fitting the keelson/footwaling a little easier later on.  I also trimmed the stems to shape and sanded back the transoms.  In hindsight, I should have left the transoms a little higher and trimmed after fitting the cap rail. Oh well..........

 

A couple of pics of progress.  You will notice some discoloured powdery substance in some of the shots.  This is where I applied a small amount of filler where some of the glue joints were a bit bare.  Once this is cleaned up, the hulls will be painted, so it won't be visible.

 

 

 

 

I also fitted the gunwales:

 

 

I will fit the risers for the thwarts next, and then paint the hulls before continuing with fitting out.

[mtaylor]

Paint???? <gasp><choke>   They look super in natural wood.   Excellent work, Grant.

[augie]

Ahem.  The question, Mr. Taylor, is what color(s) shall he choose.

[mtaylor]

Ahem.  The question, Mr. Taylor, is what color(s) shall he choose.

 

I think natural finish.. but if we're going to be creative then fuchsia and power pink maybe?

[mobbsie]

Nicely done mate, those frames have fitted in really well.

 

Doesn't look as though you have much prep to do before you paint but as Mark has already said, it would be a shame to cover that work with paint.

 

If you are going to paint them then I agree again with Mark, a nice powder or surece pink would look lovely

[Dan Vadas]

Paint???? <gasp><choke>   They look super in natural wood.   Excellent work, Grant.

 

I'm with Mark - too nice to paint .

 

  Danny

[gjdale]

Thanks guys. As for painting, while it appreciate your sentiments, and in some ways would like to leave them natural, to be in keeping with the rest of the build they really need to be painted. I will do the same as for the Launch and Pinnace, painting the hulls and leaving some of the fittings in a natural finish.

[foxy]

In that scale painting will be a shame as the wood looks fantastic.

 

Not sure on the pink though

 

foxy

[gjdale]

Cutters Ver 2.5 continued

 

Not much time in the shipyard of late, though did spend the entire day in there today.  Don't seem to have much to show for it though.......

 

I have fitted the Risers for the Thwarts in both boats, made the Caprails, and given the interiors an undercoat of white Gesso in preparation for painting.

 

The Risers were relatively simple to install, using a piece of 1/32" x 3/32" scrap Pear stock as a spacer to achieve a consistent distance below the gunwales on both sides.  The Caprails were made in the same way as for the Pinnace, cutting them roughly to shape and then spot gluing them and sanding to final shape in situ.  The only drawback here was that I've run out of 1/64" Boxwood sheet, so used Cherry instead.  Quite a noticeable difference in how the two woods sand!  By comparison, the Cherry tends to be stringy and fuzzy along the edge, and is prone to splintering.  I forgot to take pictures of the Caprails before I unglued them with Isopropyl Alcohol. Painting with the Gesso gives a good base for the paint to grip.  In this case, I thinned the Gesso slightly - I really only wanted to just cover/seal the wood with it.

 

Here's a couple of progress shots - not very pretty in their "underwear" at the moment!  I took these more to test some different camera settings than for any other reason, but thought I may as well post them anyway.

 

 

 

Next task is painting the interior of the hulls in yellow ochre.  Still debating whether I'll break out the airbrush for this task - will wait to see how the mood takes me next weekend.

 

 

[gjdale]

Hi Brian,

 

Warrior is still in the queue but I've got something else planned first. I'm keeping that under wraps for now though