HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans

[Dan Vadas]

....... continued

 

The completed anchors. The straps are dyed card. I stained the Castello with Oak stain to give them a more weathered look :

 

 

The Ring is Puddened :

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Danny

[GLakie]

Beautifully done anchor Danny!  Some nice iron-work!  A skill I need to learn (beyond just sweating copper pipe) 

[BANYAN]

That's a very nicely constructed anchor Danny.  How did you achieve such a good finish with the puddening of the ring as that is difficult to do mate.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[texxn5]

Very nice work Danny, they look real.

John

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Danny,

 

your anchors are looking very beautyful.

 

I stained the Castello with Oak stain to give them a more weathered look :

 

In my opinion this was not a good choice, because you did not stain anything else on your beautyful model as I remember right. If box was to light, why didn't you use some of your pear for the fluke?

But you are the master of your shipyard. So it's your decision.

Edited July 5, 2015 by AnobiumPunctatum

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

G'day Danny

I agree with most of the post, brilliant work!

 

You have never disappointed me with your master craftsmanship.

Havagooday

Greg

[gjdale]

Great work Danny. Glad to know the Jax Pewter Black arrived safely and seems to have worked very well for you.

[paulsutcliffe]

fantastic work and build log, and beautiful model, new member and i've just read your whole log from the beginning-awesome

could someone please tell me what TFFM stands for?? maybe silly question but hey!!!

[GLakie]

TFFM --- "The Fully Framed Model"  I believe.  

[paulsutcliffe]

thankyou TFFM plans??

[mtaylor]

Yes... books (there's 4 in the series) are available from Seawatch Books.  The plans can be ordered from the Admiralty Models website.

[paulsutcliffe]

thankyou, will check it out

[Dan Vadas]

Thanks John, George, Pat, John, Christian, Greg, Grant, John and Paul. Your comments are appreciated .

 

A skill I need to learn 

 

 

It's a bit of a learning curve George, but doesn't take all that long to get results. Main things to watch are - make sure all parts are very clean, and are a tight fit together. Silver solder doesn't fill any gaps.

 

How did you achieve such a good finish with the puddening of the ring as that is difficult to do

 

 

Yep, pretty fiddly all right Pat . I used copious amounts of PVA to stop the rope from unravelling. I could only do about 3 or 4 turns, apply glue and wait for it to start setting, and then continue on. I used 0.2mm for the puddening and carpet thread for the lashings.

 

If box was to light, why didn't you use some of your pear for the fluke?

 

 

Christian, I wanted to simulate Oak for the anchor stocks. They look a lot better in "real life" than they do in the pics - you can't really tell they were stained.

 

i've just read your whole log from the beginning

 

 

That was a marathon effort Paul. Welcome aboard .

 

could someone please tell me what TFFM stands for

 

 

As George and Mark mentioned, TFFM stands for "The Fully Framed Model", a series of 4 books written by David Antscherl and Greg Herbert. They are both members of MSW as well. The books can be bought from Seawatch Books and the plans from Admiralty Models.

 

 Danny

[AnobiumPunctatum]

 

The books can be bought from Seawatch Books and the plans from Admiralty Models.

 

... and they are every Cent worth.

[Dan Vadas]

Fish Davit

 

The Fish Davit is used when pulling up the Anchor. The associated tackle literally is used to "fish" the anchor around the flukes and then haul the crown end up ready for stowing.

 

The davit is tapered by 3 scale inches on all four sides. A stop is cut into each end :

 

 

 

A handrope is fitted to enable the davit to be manhandled into position. Nine eyestrops hold the two ropes together by passing through the centre of the davit. These were a whole lot of fun to fit, as they have an eye in one end and the other end doubles back into the hole. A drop of PVA glue holds the doubled end in place :

 

 

 

 Danny

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

Another example of pure genius! Looking forward to more updates on the divat. Question: are there only one divat per ship, or are there one on each side? All the info I can find points me to the conclusion there is only one which is moved from port to starboard.

Havagooday

Greg

[Jim Lad]

Very nicely done, Danny.

 

John

[Dan Vadas]

Thank you Greg and John.

 

Question: are there only one divat per ship, or are there one on each side? All the info I can find points me to the conclusion there is only one which is moved from port to starboard.

 

 

Quite correct Greg - there is only the one Fish Davit (at least on smaller ships such as Vulture), which is used on the side of the ship that is raising the anchor. When not in use it is stowed away, probably with the spare spars in the waist.

 

 Danny

[Dan Vadas]

Swivel Guns

 

There are 16 1/2 pound Swivel Guns on the Quarterdeck and Forecastle. I am only going to fit the 8 on the port side.

 

I turned the barrels on the lathe using the tapering attachment. A 0.9mm hole was drilled for the Bore, and another 1.2mm hole for the handle. Then I drilled a 0.8mm hole for the trunions :

 

 

 

To make the handle I found it easier to file the taper and knob than to try and do it in the lathe - my wire was too soft and the attempt at cutting it on the lathe took 1/2 an hour and still didn't come out right. Filing them took 5 minutes each. I started by tapering the shaft first :

 

 

Then I cut the piece to length, reversed it in the pin vise and filed the knob to shape :

 

 

The handle and trunions were then silver soldered in :

 

 

 

Continued next post ......

[Dan Vadas]

.... continued

 

To make the swivel brackets I flattened some 1.2mm wire. This would have been easier with 1.6mm x 0.8mm brass strip, but I didn't have any. To get some meant a 2 hour drive, and I flattened the wire in a couple of minutes :

 

 

Next I drilled 0.85mm holes 9mm apart and cut the pieces to length. The ends were rounded :

 

 

I partially bent the strap using needlenose pliers :

 

 

A piece of 1.0mm wire was soldered to the strap and then the unit was fitted to the trunions. This was not as difficult as I'd feared. The guns can pivot up and down as the straps aren't soldered to the barrels :

 

 

 

 

Finally the guns were blackened :

 

 

 

 

 Danny

[GLakie]

That's some more very nice iron-work Danny!  It's gotta be nice to have all the "toys" for making parts from scratch like this.  ----  (re-vamping my old list)   

 

Cheers

[NenadM]

Just amazing

[BANYAN]

That's some very nice smithing mate -  a great result and they look the real deal!

 

What is that red stuff evident in some photos?

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Jim Lad]

Well, now I know where to come for guns in future!

 

John

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

G'day Danny

As I was going through the log I thought to myself "fantastic", then, I saw the ruler next to the gun and I said to myself, "jee wizz", that's bloody small.

It is amazing how well you can do small and detailed work!

Can't wait for the next chapter in this fantastic log!

[cog]

Dan,

 

Sharp and detailed jet again. Nice to know you do have limits working with the lathe ... although ... it's more something like metal fatigue ... Very nice job on the handle, must be ... 2 mm wide like?

[Mirabell61]

Hi Danny,

 

those swivels look wonderful...

I have a question:

did you choose hard silver soldering for the benefit of chemical blackening behavior versa blackening soft solder joints ?

 

Nils

[rtropp]

Danny,

A real pleasure to follow along... and very instructive.

 

Is it possible to see a shot of the cannon on the lathe perhaps part way through working it?

 

Thanks,

Richard 

[mhegazi]

Brilliant , as usual Danny

 

how did you change the color of the cannons from solid painted black into this grey like color in the last two pics ?

 

Mohamad

[Dan Vadas]

George, Nenad, Pat, John, Greg, Carl, Nils, Richard and Mohamad - thank you for the kind remarks, and also to those who "Liked" my swivel guns .

 

What is that red stuff evident in some photos?

 

 

Pat, that's a discoloration caused by either heat or flux, I'm not sure which. It disappears with a bit of wire-brushing, and also when I apply the Blackening.

 

It is amazing how well you can do small and detailed work!

 

 

Greg, it all comes with time and practice. Also using the right techniques, most of which I've learnt from others on MSW .

 

Very nice job on the handle, must be ... 2 mm wide like?

 

 

Actually Carl it's only 1.2mm at the widest point .

 

did you choose hard silver soldering for the benefit of chemical blackening behavior versa blackening soft solder joints ?

 

 

That's one reason Nils. The other is the far greater strength that silver has over soft. And there's virtually no cleanup of excess solder when using silver.

 

Is it possible to see a shot of the cannon on the lathe perhaps part way through working it?

 

 

Sorry Richard, I didn't bother taking any this time. Here are a couple of (very rough - sorry) pics I took when making the Carronades on my HMAT Supply :

 

 

 

how did you change the color of the cannons from solid painted black into this grey like color in the last two pics ?

 

 

That's merely a trick of the camera Mohamad - the white background in the 1st pic fooled the camera into making them look a lot blacker.

 

 Danny