Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build

[Chuck]

Yes that is a good point.  I will either go with this last color or that earlier one which is just a hair darker.  
 

 

 

Chuck

[dvm27]

I'm wondering if the top over bottom feature of the upper center pane has actually fallen off the original model? I'm thinking the upper lip feature should look identical to the outer panes as in the central light of the larger ship. To me the center pane appears to be missing the outer portion. Perhaps it was sandwiched and fell off? What do you think David?

 

My holly is toning down after all these years and I prefer it now over the starker white. But the use of ivory in some of these models is well documented so you can't go wrong either way. Just a matter of taste.

 

Fabulous work Chuck!

Edited April 12, 2023 by dvm27

[scrubbyj427]

I like the white as it’s more convincing but I’m open to a boxwood color and like Ben said, they can be painted. Very cool discovery though. What is the material?

[Chuck]

12 hours ago, dvm27 said:

I'm wondering if the top over bottom feature of the upper center pane has actually fallen off the original model?

I have been looking at that very hard and its impossible to tell.  That would be easy to do though.  I will give it a try.  I am a long way from needing to add these permanently.  So I can keep adjusting. 

[Chuck]

Ok here is the final iteration for now.  Center light made the same as the outer lights.   I reworked the shape and configuration as Greg suggested.   These are not glued in yet.   But using yet another color I think these are probably a winner.   I have not installed any acetate for the glass either.   But these are as close to a contemporary model version as I have gotten thus far on a project.  They do look very crisp and clean as well.  What do you guys think?

 

[dvm27]

Perfect!

[Tigersteve]

What is this magic material? 😎 I like how you added the element of suspense in your prototype. 
Steve

[Chuck]

I am keeping that close to the vest for now!!!   We all need a leg up on the competition.   And yes there is a lot of it out there.

 

I havent finished experimenting with it yet.   It also comes in quite a few thicknesses.   So before I let the competition know how wonderful it is, and exactly what it is capable of doing,  I want to at least take it to the limit on one of my own projects first with exclusivity.

 

 

 

 

[glbarlow]

What, no char!  What’s the world coming to.  Those are some nice looking windows. 

[Tigersteve]

Chuck is making char obsolete. 
Steve

[Chuck]

If you guys are familiar with the scrollwork and molding on my winnie project,  I think that was a game changer.  I still dont think any kit maker has come close to laser cutting scrollwork like that.  If you would allow me to be modest.   But there was one huge drawback.   They were incredibly fragile being made from Boxwood.

 

And it was tedious and tough to remove the laser char without breaking them.   

 

 

I tested my cut file for those on the new material...

 

No laser char at all.   They are strong as well.   Keep in mind these have not been shaped yet.  This material can be sanded.  I would like to see what these look like if I rounded off the edges with fine sandpaper.

 

But this was just a test...I didnt alter the file at all from when I cut them in boxwood.   The top one is hard to see but it is gilded.  They have a gold material as well.  

 

Think about it....the possibilities are endless.   This would certainly be a game changer for headrails,  bulkhead pannels with a raised center....fancy hull molding...fancy stanchions and rails.   Acanthus leaf carvings.   

 

So yes I am gonna keep this one exclusive for now.  These are extreme brutal close up photos as well.   But I imagine I could go even smaller with these now and do more interesting things.  These are right out of the laser cutter....nothing has been done to them at all.

 

 

 

 

 

[knightyo]

1 hour ago, Chuck said:

Ok here is the final iteration for now.  Center light made the same as the outer lights.   I reworked the shape and configuration as Greg suggested.   These are not glued in yet.   But using yet another color I think these are probably a winner.   I have not installed any acetate for the glass either.   But these are as close to a contemporary model version as I have gotten thus far on a project.  They do look very crisp and clean as well.  What do you guys think?

 

Those are absolutely gorgeous.  I also think they look the best when matching the color of the surrounding wood, and agree that the center looks best as constructed the same as the outers. 

 

Are you going to have individual panes for each "square", or one sheet of acetate for each pane?  The posting recently in which someone used a heat gun to "melt" plastic sheet around panes giving the illusion of individual windows was pretty nice. 

 

Alan

 

[Beef Wellington]

Thats amazing!  These are the details that really enhance the final model.

[Chuck]

I will probably do just a sheet because its easier for manufacturing.   But I guess you could do that as a bash with these.

 

 

[glbarlow]

The raised bulkheads sound exciting, though too late for me, and having been one that has broken a scroll work or two I can see the advantage. The challenge might how it matches up to the surrounding molding and not having seen it how it looks matched up to wood in general.  I’d like to see it as the head rails someday, is that a place where this material vs. wood wouldn’t be an issue? (I can be your beta tester😊).

 

Yes, the scroll work and stern decorations are certainly a game changer as are many other Winchelsea innovations. I get to see that every day. Can you make black port hinges with it, or pedestals- those things there are multiple of and challenging to made consistent copies.😊

Edited April 13, 2023 by glbarlow

[Chuck]

Its a little too brittle for port hinges.   But the experimentation will continue.

 

You cant bend it like metal....but it is very flexible.   

 

I will continue to post updates on what I find useful with it.

 

Chuck

[TBlack]

1 hour ago, Chuck said:

I will probably do just a sheet because its easier for manufacturing.   But I guess you could do that as a bash with these.

 

 

I believe Greg has used mica on his model. Thoughts?

Tom

[JeffT]

Good to see. Laser char is a pain on fragile parts.

[amateur]

Any thoughts on long-term colour-changes? Matching the colour of the surrounding wood might be tempting, but if that material doesn’t change colour, and the wood does (or they both change in opposite directions) going for contrast might be a better option from the start.

I like the crispness of the windows and the scrollwork.

 

Jan

 

 

[Chuck]

Its hard to say.  This is all brand new and its a brand new product.  I am just gonna go for it and use the color that matches the wood perfectly.  It will be years before it changes color.  I doubt it will.

 

Mica for windows...LOL...of course you can.  But not as a mfg part.   The kit will get acetate.

 

Somebody mentioned gun port hinges earlier.   Photo etched hinges are a pain as well.  This material is not good for them but I did find another material and its interesting that you mentioned it.  I had been experimenting a while ago with gun port hinges.   Just havent had time to make a bunch for sale yet.

 

If I wasnt making rope and blocks every day like I was working in a Chinese sweat shop,  I could have so many more interesting products and ship model kits.  It just eats up so much of my time.  But my brain is full of neat things I would like to try if ever I could find the time.

 

This was a quick mock up I was using to test each attempt.   Its a bit crude but look at the hinge and not the hull.  Also excuse the cellphone pics which are a little blurry.

 

These are also laser cut and unlike anything on the market yet.   You will probably see them soon as they are easy to make and I am sure somebody will steal this design concept at this point.   These are .040 wide hinge straps.   This mock up was made using the Winnie ports as a guide.   I know folks hate making them from scratch using brass strip.  This was to be my alternative and they should be available soon.   I just have to write instructions for them and make them when the time permits.

 

Speedwell doesnt use port lids so these wont be used on her.

 

But I will sell these soon with 32hinges per package. AND I will be discontinuing my old laserboard hinges.

 

 

Two part hinges....

 

you insert a tiny length of 28 gauge blk wire in the small piece that gets secured to the hull.   Cut it short to make a hinge pin.   

 

The hinge itself slides onto it.  Its a working hinge and quite strong actually.   The bottom end is rounded off and a hole drilled through it for the rings.  

 

They are super easy to prepare and place on the model by comparison to any others I have seen.   They are all the same length although they can be cut to any length so they can be used on other models that arent Winchelsea.

 

 

 

 

[KentM]

Nice

[rlwhitt]

Oh wow! So is that hinge material natively black?  If so, man that could be used for so much stuff - painting metal is such a huge PITA.   Thinking chain plates, etc.

Edited April 14, 2023 by rlwhitt

[druxey]

I guess that scratch building is sooo yesterday....

[mtaylor]

If I were you, Chuck, I'd never tell what you're using unless someone else starts using it.  Trade Secret and all that.

[Stuntflyer]

2 hours ago, druxey said:

I guess that scratch building is sooo yesterday....

Oh, I believe in yesterday. . . 🎵🎵🎵🎵🎵╡🎵╡

[glbarlow]

5 hours ago, druxey said:

guess that scratch building is sooo yesterday

I’m building a high level model that takes a decent level of skill to complete from a design and parts I could never achieve otherwise. These port hinges for example, I could make 20 from a strip of brass, I made one today just to prove to myself I could. But I’d be disappointed taking a week (in my case) because I’d do them over and over to get 20 that looked nearly alike, cause that’s what I do.  I’d much rather spend my time on more fun things, like head rails, capstans, chain pumps, pedestals, and ship’s stoves than fabricating 1/16th metal strips. (I did ‘scratch’ all the metal on Cheerful, not that I enjoyed that part).
 

I of course admire those that can scratch build, such amazing work here on MSW. However Chuck has brought modeling to a level us mortals can achieve amazing high results, if we put the work in and don’t just slap it together.  It still takes major effort, so scratch building or not I’m pretty happy about consistent believable port hinges from magic metal looking material. Now I’m going to go fabricate a bunch of split rings and eyebolts from some wire. 

[AnobiumPunctatum]

6 hours ago, druxey said:

I guess that scratch building is sooo yesterday....

Definitly not. But to learn from Chuck and some other producers can help to make it possible or much easier to build the ship you like to have.

[DaKea90]

Hi Chuck, 

I guess, you might have answered the following already, but I couldn't find it. (And if I already have asked it, please forgive me, my memory is sometimes a bit like Swiss cheese)

 

At what scale is you Speedwell being built and how difficult is it to implement a new scale? 

 

I really like the look of it, but I want to build in 1/60th scale exclusively. In my mind, it's just needed to rescale the files and go ahead, bit I am neither an expert nor even a beginner in the art of laser-cutting and 3D-modelling. 

But what I want to say, if there was the possibility to buy your Speedwell kit in 1/60th scale, I'd be all in.

[giampieroricci]

Chuck, what you are doing for this model of yours is something amazing, with unmatched precision and detail!
This proves that when there is synergy between man and machine you can get the best out of both! I follow you with great interest!

[Chuck]

Thanks guys.  Speedwell is 3/8” scale.  I wont be making it in other scales other than a miniature at 3/32”.  
 

But the plans are in fact available in Davids book by Seawatch.  So they can be resized to Whatever size you prefer. It is extremely difficult to resize and change scales.  Nearly every part would require redrawing not just changing the size.
 

I have no plans to release every part on my plans set because David already shows them on his set in the books.  This includes patterns for every frame etc.  This project I am making will only be available as laser cut parts.  
 

It is not easy at all…and super expensive to make kits in other scales.  I will stick with just one. And the mini too which needs a lot of plan redrawing if I am going to make it for public consumption.