Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build

[Rustyj]

Hi Chuck,

 

I finally got caught up looking at all the new information on a PC instead of my phone. The framing is stunning and your description makes it seem so deceptively easy. Much easier than scratch but still a lot of care and patience is required to produce results like yours. I really like the last set of windows too.

[Stuntflyer]

1 hour ago, Rustyj said:

Much easier than scratch but still a lot of care and patience is required to produce results like yours.

Yes, Rusty. I totally agree. This is something I've been saying all along. Laser cutting is just the first step. Afterwards, much care is needed in order to get results like the ones seen in Chuck's builds. Care and Patience will always yield a better result.

Edited April 14, 2023 by Stuntflyer

[Chuck]

Laser cut parts...CNC parts...3D printed parts

 

They can only get you so far.  This is certainly not like a lego set of the Millennium Falcon....LOL

 

But having said this, the goal is to have it NOT look like a kit when you are done.  I strive to make my projects look as close to a scratch built model and contemporary model as possible.  Otherwise I wouldnt make them.  But I admit they are more advanced and more deceptively finicky than other MFGs.

 

But yes...it looks real easy in the pictures.   Wait till you see the miniature model take shape.

 

Chuck

[Strelok]

As Dr. Google couldn't help me in this regard: can somebody point me to a chart or list (or tell it plainly), for how to change this imperial scale (3/32") into a metric scale (1/x th)?

[mnewsholme]

I think 3/32 scale equates to 1/128 scale in metric. 

[whitejamest]

Rumors confirmed: Syren Ship Models to produce Millenium Falcon kit in Alaskan yellow cedar. 

 

Future plans for boxwood Death Star in 3/32 scale uncertain. 

[knightyo]

Chuck, I'll bet you've been cringing wondering how long it would take someone to ask you if you were also going to create a mini-Winnie as well, yes?  It even rhymes.  

 

Alan

 

[TBlack]

3 hours ago, Chuck said:

 

But having said this, the goal is to have it NOT look like a kit when you are done.  I strive to make my projects look as close to a scratch built model and contemporary model as possible. 

From stern lanterns to ships’ boats to huge frigates, you certainly succeed at your goal. When you have a vision, you are unstoppable!

[Strelok]

Mini-Winnie used to be a brand of small sauages - Wieners - in Germany. 😅 

 

So you basically provide a kit in 1:36th scale and the smaller one in 1:128. Too bad 😥 

But I will follow your progress nevertheless 

[Matt D]

5 hours ago, Strelok said:

As Dr. Google couldn't help me in this regard: can somebody point me to a chart or list (or tell it plainly), for how to change this imperial scale (3/32") into a metric scale (1/x th)?

The relationship is 3/32 inch per foot.  To covert to unit-less scale, divide by 12.  3/32” per ft.  divided by 12”/ ft simplifies to 1/128 and the units cancel.

Edited April 14, 2023 by Matt D
Words are hard

[aliluke]

Hi Chuck

Loving looking at this but the timber, probable cost and skills needed terrify me. It isn't hard to see why England ran out of trees! The amount of wood needed for thousands of ships. Speedwell is a beauty and I might just buy the Seawatch books to admire the skill in small scale replication. A beautiful model!

 

A separate issue for Strelok and hopefully not to divert this log;

The imperial to metric scale conversion also drove me nuts. My equation is now simple:

1/4" to a foot = 1 divided by 4 = 12 divided by 0.25 = 1/48

3/32" to a foot = 3 divided by 32 = 12 divided by 0.09375 = 1/128

1/16" to a foot = 1 divided by 16 = 12 divided by 0.0625 = 1/192

Etc; etc...

 

Cheers

A

[Chuck]

Well I am starting to feel much better although I am not making any rope or blocks yet.   Still very exhausted.  So my inventory will have to wait.  But I did spend a relaxing day yesterday working on Speedwell.  Mostly out of boredom.  I dont know how some folks can sit around all day doing nothing.

 

Anyway...this starts chapter 3.

 

The square tuck and counter planking.  

 

Everyone knows a square tuck can be very very tricky to make so it looks good.  Rather than fart around with individual elements I decided to take a shot at doing it the exact same way the model builder of the contemporary model did his square tuck.  Unfortunately for him...he didnt have a laser cutter.

 

It took a really long time to get the shape absolutely correct so I liked how it fit.  But once that was done, it took about 15 minutes to bevel the outside edge.  There is a laser etched line for that so it was easy.   

 

I also added the planking within that tricky framework as laser etched lines.  This included treenails.  But the treenails are for placement only.   They are same size as we will treenail the hull planking.  So you can drill them and use 15 pound black or dark brown fishing line for your treenails.   OR...just use the laser etched ones as the final because it still looks pretty darn good.

 

Then glue them on the model making sure they are lined up port and starboard.

 

 

Keep in mind how a square tuck was used and its purpose.   The plank ends would butt against this frame on the forward side.  So it needs to stand proud of the frame already on the model when positioned.   This should be by about 3/64" all the way down.

 

Then its time to plank the counter.  The counter planks are laser cut just like on the Winchelsea model.   They are pretty straight forward.   Sand the sides flush when dont with the hull so planking the sides of the hull will be nice and neat.

 

 

With that done I wanted to take a stab at seeing what the colors of the model will eventually look like.  The contemporary model is painted with solid areas.  The counter being almost a dark blue gray...almost black.   A dark blue stripe down the sides of the hull with a read stripe above that.   

 

I wanted to see what a frieze might look like keeping the same color scheme rather than just paint solid areas like the Contemporary model.

 

So in my sick boredom state...I colorized the template and made a first go at a stern frieze and hull frieze.   Just to see how they would look.   They are just taped on.  Now I realize this might look weird with not seeing the black wales present, but it actually does give you a good sense of what this color scheme might look like.   Once the moldings and wales and stern carvings are added it might look very good.   Imagine the insides of the ports red and the bulwarks as well....In fact I think I like this far better than just painting the hull with solid colors.  What are your thoughts...Any comments?

 

 

 

 

 

 

[scrubbyj427]

That looks very good Chuck! The laser square tuck transom is very nice and impossible to tell it’s just one piece. 

[Rustyj]

I agree that it all looks very nice. The adding of color like that really stands out nicely. Glad to hear you're starting to feel better!

[davyboy]

Hi Chuck,

 

Your square tuck looks very good,I made mine the hard way,only had to do one of the not so easy outer parts twice. I didn't realise that the model had two coloured areas on the outer hull.thought the upper was just shadow,need to get new specs methinks. I'll have a go at doing the red area,hopefully I don't make a mess of it.

 

Dave 

   

[Twokidsnosleep]

Oh wow

This is how masterpieces are made

Will spend some time and read and follow along, hopefully learn something

[Mic_Nao]

Wonderful !

[Chuck]

Thank You guys.   I couldnt resist.   While I am hanging around I thought I would create a template for the wales as well.  It would not be a waste of time because now we have the spiled shapes for the wales as well.  I colorized them in Corel Draw and taped them below the other template.  This is as good a look at what the finished color scheme will look like.   Along with the details on the external hull.  Although with a very 2d look and feel...LOL.

 

 

 

[westwood]

Wow that looks great Chuck.
Another reason why I would like to go into this project.

[Beckmann]

Hi Chuck,

the decorated frieze is a good choice in my opinion. Many 18th century models show them.

That will look very good.

Matthias 

[Chuck]

The original model of speedwell is so filthy and faded its really hard to see the colors.  Thats why I wanted to do a test of sorts.  I want to see if these colors are good or if I should change the red to something else etc.  But since the bulwarks and deck fittings are also

red I figured why not just match that for simplicity.  Look how muddy and faded the colors are below.

 

 

 

[JeffT]

Looks very nice. The colors add life to the model.

[KenW]

It's a beautiful masterpiece!

Amazing!

[Chuck]

Thanks guys…its just a paper template so dont get too excited.  Hopefully i can now make her look like that using wood.  I will start planking in May after I get back from the Connecticut show.  This is how she will remain until then.  I am bringing the model if anyone happens to be going as well.  
 

I will also bring the completed Winnie.

 

 

[Ryland Craze]

I am looking forward to seeing it.

[tlevine]

I like the side friezes but the counter looks (to my eye) too fussy.  Even though the model needs cleaning, there appears to be a lighter color extending all the way across the counter.

 

[Chuck]

Thanks Toni....its pretty crisp.  I think it was just my printout.  Two versions.   One with tassels.  Still playing with it though.

 

 

[KenW]

If you want to choose one, I like the tassels.

That's my vote.

Also there seems to be moulding below the counter.

Edited April 21, 2023 by KenW

[glbarlow]

Of course it has to have RED. I love that color on my models, accurate or not. 
 

I was wary of the printed paper friezes, now having used them on Winchelsea I think them amazing. So much better than painted brass PE. 
 

My vote is without the tassels, allowing the blue, also a great ship color, to stand out.

Edited April 21, 2023 by glbarlow

[Chuck]

I will probably provide both.  I like more of the blue field without them.  

 

Here is a pdf if folks want to print one out and see what I am working on.

 

They are far from finished.  I am still working on the colors and details...

 

 

sternfrieze.pdf