GrandpaPhil

Thank you very much, OC! I’m going to make them exactly like I did on the Prince de Neufchatel.

Welcome!

Welcome!

Congratulations! Well done!

The remainder of Victory’s artillery are roughed out. Now, the barrels need final sanding, trunnions and the eyebolts on the breech. Next up, they need carriages to sit on.

Welcome!

Welcome!

One carronade. These are a lot trickier to carve than a normal cannon barrel. I got to use a normal sized drill bit to bore it out.

18 cannon barrels: Only 2 carronades left.

Quick lesson learned to share with anyone cutting dowel rods: while cutting the dowel rod, rotate it to prevent splitting out.

Welcome!

I am glad that you like the carving. I learned from this forum, with the learn to carve group project. I finished the second medium 12 and carved the first two short 12’s. The third is nearly done, but I broke it and now it needs to dry before I can put the last band on and bore it out.

All ten of the long 12’s are made and one of the medium 12’s. The other medium 12 is over half done. The first of the short 12’s (1 of 6) has a cascabel and a breech.

My respect to Captain Freeman.

I’m glad to see it’s out.

Nice recovery!

Thank you all very much for the comments and the likes! It took me until cannon 8 (7 long and 1 medium) to recall my methodology that I used for the cannons on the Prince de Neufchatel. It works much better if I put the main contour on the barrel and THEN put the rings on instead on adding the contour of the barrel, ring by ring. Number six has major issues. I know this. It will also not be particularly visible as it belongs on the upper gundeck and will be covered with the ship’s boats.

Congratulations! Well done!

Congratulations! Well done!

It would be unfortunate if you gave up on resin models entirely. I have built a few (never a ship). My first couple of experiences with resin did not go well. I actually hated resin models after those first couple of models. However, I ended up with a bunch, in a lot of models, that I won in an auction, and learned how to work with them, and ended up really liking resin models. There is usually a lot more flash and the gate usually has to be removed (and for a larger piece, can be the size of the piece, because that is where the resin is poured in and not injected, unlike plastic models). That just has to be cut away (I use a scalpel for this). I have also seen a lot of warping in the pieces. To remove the warping, one must heat the model, preferably in hot water. I use the microwave method for tanks and figures. For something the size of a hull, I would put it in a bathtub with the hottest water that you can and let it heat for a bit. After the resin warms up it becomes very flexible and you can shape it how you need it. My personal last example involved the track piece of a resin R35 tankette (French, 1940). I microwaved it in a cup of water for about 30 seconds to heat it up. Then I straightened the track so it would fit on the hull and look right. It worked beautifully. I have not seen the Model Shipwrights Edmund Fitzgerald. However, I hope this helps. There is usually more work involved in resin vs plastic, but resin models, in my opinion, hold more detail and usually look good once built.

I’m sorry to hear about your cousin. You have my condolences.

Unfortunately, I didn’t keep them after I finished the model (over a decade ago). I wish I could help more.

I purchased plans of the Edmund Fitzgerald, in 1/192 scale, a few weeks ago. I am planning on using them to build the Edmund Fitzgerald, out of card, in 1/192 scale. I need to finish Victory first (to ensure that the Victory does not get shelved and left in half finished limbo).

Welcome!

I personally like acrylics. I just brush paint them on. They mix easily and they’re easy to work. I don’t typically have issues with brush marks, but I also don’t typically use gloss paint. Plus, techniques such as dry brushing, washing, and highlighting work very well with acrylics, to add realism and depth to a model. I like to use faux metallic painting techniques in lieu of metallic paint (unless I’m using actual metal such as copper tape). Weathering techniques also work great with acrylics. However, I like to make my models look well used and a little battered because I learned and developed most of my painting and modeling techniques from 28mm wargaming. I essentially treat my models like gigantic wargaming miniatures. I primarily use Delta Ceramcoat and the other craft paints. I like the Army Painter brushes, paints and their washes (although, I make my own washes just as frequently). My Victory and Prince de Neufchatel are painted with acrylics. I thoroughly drybrushed and weathered the Prince de Neufchatel and plan to do the same to Victory.