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Everything posted by augie
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I'm really just speculating but the alcohols we commonly use for modeling (methanol, ethanol, isopropyl) have a tremendous affinity for water. By soaking the wood in alcohol, that alcohol probably combines with the natural moisture in the wood (giving the softening effect). But when it dries, the alcohol will take some of that natural water with it making the wood brittle. If the wood sits around for a (long) time at ambient conditions, it will eventually re-equilibrate at it's 'normal' moisture content and come back to normal. But the whole process is subject to so many variables (type of wood, original moisture content, type of alcohol, soaking time, ambient conditions during drying) that I doubt it could be used reliably for any specific purpose.
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The cannons are 30 gauge wire I got from a hobby store. It was already painted black. That statement helps to put things in perspective !!!
- 36 replies
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- bermuda sloop
- sloop
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HMS Victory by JPett - Corel - 1:98
augie replied to JPett's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Wishing you good luck here, JP. I think the rabbet into the keel post would have been the way to go but I'm sure you can hammer this out. -
She is REALLY coming together. Have you considered adding just the breech lines to the cannon?
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Never mind the calendar --- that's some amazing and beautiful progress. Have fun with the coppering.
- 69 replies
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- fair rosamund
- occre
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Wayne - just to be clear.....you need to reduce the width of the stanchion at the cap to 2mm and at deck level to 4mm? This is quite common and I ran into it on both my Syren and Confederacy (different dimensions, of course). The way it was done was to mark the finished thickness with a pencil line on both sides of the bulkhead then leave them alone and mount them as is ---- they can be quite fragile even at the unfinished thickness. Once the hull outer planking is complete the stanchions have quite a bit of support. It is at that time you sand them down to the final required thickness. Actually, you don't even need to mark them as you can measure a finished thickness off the plans including the thickness of the outer hull planking and use a pair of calipers to check as you sand them down. I won't kid you ---- sanding that curve is a bit of a bear but it can be done if you work slowly. As you are really 'fairing' the inside of the hull, you can use a plank to check your progress just as you do on the outside fairing. Don't just take my word for it though. See if you get some alternate suggestions.
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Kevin, that head on shot can be scary as it truly reveals the symmetry you've built in. You nailed it!
- 1,319 replies
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- caldercraft
- Victory
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You sir, deserve to be proud at this moment. Almost 20 years of trials, effort and learning that have culminated in something of true beauty. I humbly salute your craftsmanship. Thank you for sharing her with us over the last 3 years and I will look forward to your collaboration with Mobbsie on Granado. Now where's that link to Rocket
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Just found this log and you are certainly zipping right along. Love the thicker bulkheads ...... and the windlass as well.
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- cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
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From the look of your machine, I would (almost) wager that this is the belt you're looking for: http://www.micromark.com/1-inch-x-30-inch-sanding-belts-240-grit-pkg-of-2,6806.html
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- agamemnon
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US Brig Syren by knightyo
augie replied to knightyo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
I'm pretty sure that was Dubz (Dirk). -
I think I have 240 grit on my belt. Nice part is your machine, which looks exactly like mine, should run pretty smoothly so vibration is not a major issue.
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- agamemnon
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Nice new toys, Mobbsie. I think you'll like that sander. She's looking first rate, mate!!!!
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- agamemnon
- caldercraft
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Welcome home Gil! Looking forward to updates on your fantastic build.
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- finished
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Holy smokes ...... did you make the sails yourself or has Anja played a role here? Come on ----- tell us.......we're all friends here!!!! Great start !
- 1,873 replies
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- occre
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