Group Prototype HMS Winchelsea - FINISHED - 1764 - by Chuck (1/4" scale)

[scrubbyj427]

What’s the required diameter of those rings? Or drill bit size?

[Hubac's Historian]

Okay, now I see - thanks for taking the time to post this, Chuck.  ‘Much appreciated!

[Chuck]

For these I used a #50 drill bit.   

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

Hello Chuck,

That capstan in the background of the last picture of the lids in the model looks awesome!

G  

[Chuck]

Thanks!!!

 

 

[scrubbyj427]

3 hours ago, Chuck said:

Thanks!!!

 

 

Whoa! When does all this fun start?

[Chuck]

Not for a little while yet. But soon enough.

[Chuck]

Port lids are all done.....they take longer than you think. 😊

 

So now the two ladders for the gundeck.  The thing about ladders on commercial kits is they are usually so out of scale.  You must consider that the ladders or steps were made much as they are today.  They are made from 2" thick stock.  So that translates to just 1/32" thick at this scale.  Most kits provide parts double the thickness so its like they used a 4 x 4 to make the stairs which looks pretty horrible.  I was also never happy with their shape which was usually very generic and not at all like they are shown on good contemporary examples and plans.

 

So I worked up a simple design but they can be finicky to build.   So this is how I managed these.

 

First I sanded both sides of the sheet to remove any char before the parts were removed from the sheet.  The photo shows the prototype build and now I will make another to show you how its done.  The edges were sanded free of char.....these are made from boxwood.   I have laser etched mortices to accept the stairs.  So first thing you should check is the fit of the sides of the steps in the mortices.  If they are too thick....simply knock off the corner or bevel the edge of the steps ever so slightly.  Not too much and dont touch the little "wings" protruding from the front of each step.   I also did not remove any char from the side edges of the steps as I want them all the same length exactly.   This is important.   I started by adding the top and bottom step to one side of the ladder.  I got a nice fit into the mortice after just lightly beveling the edge of the steps.

Then I added the other side of the ladder and made sure the glue was dry before handling it further.....otherwise it could fall apart easy.  Remember these are just 1/32" thick.

 

Finally I beveled the side edges of ever remaining step and slid them in position after applying a small drop of glue to each edge.   They slid right into place without much trouble.  Once you do one or two it gets easier......straight in and back.

The top step is a bit wide which you will soon discover so at this stage I used a sanding stick to sand it flush on the back side of the step.  Then to finish it off I sanded the sides of the ladder to make those little "wings" on each step flush with the sides of the ladder.   I hope that makes sense as I left them a bit longer so they would need to be finish-sanded.

 

Thats it.....

 

But the larger hatch mid-ship has a double ladder.  Its built  basically the same way.   The top and bottom step first.    But then I slipped the center riser in position as well.

Then its just a matter of slipping the remaining steps into position.   With each step added, the entire assembly gets stronger.   Finish sand the sides and that top step and its all done.  You can see how the front of each step has just a slight curve to it......not too much.  When finished these are light and elegant.   It is important to have them look this way.

Apply some WOP and then glue them into position in each companionway.   See  below.

Next up its time to add some cleats and bolts to the bulwarks.  Yippie.  Any questions???

 

[Stuntflyer]

Very nice, Chuck. You're doing all the hard work while making things super easy for the rest of us.

 

Mike

[rafine]

Mike is spot on. Looks great Chuck.

 

Bob

[Jorge Diaz O]

Bravo!!!

[Rustyj]

Very nice! They look so good in place. 

[Chuck]

On the bulwarks you will see several cleats and a staghorn....

 

The cleats are self explanatory.   Laser cut cleats were cleaned of laser char and painted.   Then glued onto the bulwarks.  You can peg them with some 24 gauge wire for extra security.

 

There is one other feature on the bulwarks.  I believe its called a staghorn or basically its a fancier cleat with some sheaves.   Someone can correct me on the terminology as I seem to have a mind block as I am writing this.

 

These are also laser cut for you from boxwood.  They are quite small but add a nice detail seldom seen on most kits.  But they are used in a bunch of places.  But one is needed on the bulwarks on each side.

Basically the first thing you do is add the backing piece which will enclose the sheaves.  Those are laser etched as you can see above.  The the two "horns" (for lack of a better word) need to be shaped.   These are the ends which need to be shaped like a typical timberhead.  I used a #11 blade to do this.  A quick stop cut was used across the end to match the profile laser cut.  Then I sliced towards the stop cut on an angle to give the end some dimension on the front side.  Otherwise it would be flat ...you can see the front of the finished piece above.   Then I lightly chamfered the edge...again like you would do with a timberhead.

 

These were painted and glued on the bulwarks.  Just check the plans for their locations.   Its hard to see but below you can see one side of the bulwarks with some cleats and this "staghorn".

 

 

Now I should start making all of those eyebolts for the gun tackles.  Ugh!  But I think I am going to skip ahead and start making the cheeks on the starboard side.

 

If you recall I finished these on the port side already.   I dont feel like making eyebolts and split rings today.

 

Here is a shot of the cheeks and hair brackets on the port side.   Let me detail how they are made next.  Its quite a long process even with most parts laser cut for you.

 

 

You start with the hair brackets....

 

These are the pieces on the stem, while those on the hull above and below the hawse holes are the cheeks.

 

The hair brackets are laser cut for you.  The first thing you do is lightly sand the laser char on the face of the sheet before you remove any of the parts.  You can see in the photo that I tried something new.  Cheeks and headrails always look pretty crappy on kits so here goes nothing.  Hopefully a better result and not too difficult to build.

 

They are laser etched with a channel down the center of them.  Its not very deep but then it doesnt have to be.  In this channel will be a precision laser cut insert.   The hair brackets are 1/16" thick while the inserts are 1/32" thick.  Once the inserts are shaped and positioned, they will stand proud of the hair brackets.   To pull this off properly,   you must first sand all the laser char from the edges or sides of each hair bracket.  Then round off the outside edge.  Just knock off the hard edge as it doesnt need to be over-sanded.  Dont worry about touching the laser etched channel.  

 

Then carefully with a light touch sand the char from the edges of the inserts.  These are thin and fragile.  Then round off the edges of these along their entire length if that makes sense.  In the photo below you can see an extra set of pieces not touched....note the flat inserts etc.  But below that you can see the pieces all finished and being dry fit into the etched channels.  

To finish these up after you glue in the inserts,  add the tiny laser cut button to the scrolls.   These are 1/32" thick which are too thick.  So once glued into position you must sand them thinner until the look right.   They should be pretty thin.  Lastly, I applied some WOP and then glued the friezes on.   These are printed on regular paper like the other friezes.   I used a glue stick.   You can slide them around before they set.   Then take the point of a toothpick and lightly burnish or "tuck" the edges of the frieze along the edges so its nice and neat. 

 

Thats it for the hair brackets.   Tomorrow I will work on the cheeks and finish off all the other parts.   This is also the method or design concept I will use to make all the headrails.  You n see one test headrail in the same photo.  I have made about 10 test examples so far and it looking good if I can just choose the one I like best.   Each headrail is made up of between 5 or even ten pieces depending on which one I choose.  I do like this one for its simplicity.   But we wont need these until a lot later.   So now its onto the cheeks.

 

All of the elements come together well to create a pretty convincing execution.  Keep in mind this is what we are trying to replicate without having to carve these from scratch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[scrubbyj427]

This looks to be an exciting chapter! Well done Chuck. Will be ordering as soon as it’s available.

JJ

[Rustyj]

Amazing!!!!

[Jim Rogers]

Chuck this is beautiful. In hot standby for Chapter 5.

[Matt D]

What amazing work, Chuck!  This is a phenomenal project you’re putting together and sharing with us! 

[Chuck]

Thanks guys.....Trying to find some time today to do those cheeks....

 

But today is the first day after opening the store.  Its been getting nutty.  But maybe  later tonight if I am not too tired.    I forgot how crazy these reopening's get.

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

way ahead of mine  but soo much to look forward to  

[Chuck]

You saw how the hair brackets were made.  Next the cheeks need to be made.  These are connected to the hair brackets.  Building the cheeks is very different than building the hair brackets.   There are three layers to each cheek.   There are two of them.  The lower cheek is actually slightly longer than the upper cheek.  So remember to select the right laser cut pieces when you put them together.  The middle layer is thicker.   The two outer layers are 1/32" thick.  The top layer has a laser etched reference line that is very important.  It indicates the bevel line.  You will be beveling the edge not just to get a snug fit against the hull but also to establish the correct angle for the little end of the cheek that wraps onto the stem.

 

Now all of this always looks easier than it actually is.   You will need to get in touch with your creative side here a bit.  Each of these pieces will need some shaping and testing.....and repeat many many times the shaping and testing.  Let me explain.  Th echeek on the top is completed.  But the frieze hasnt been glued onto it yet.  The other three below that are the individual layer for the second cheek.

 

You should start with the middle layer.   Make sure it fits in position.  Make sure it sits against the hull planking reasonably well and also against the stem.  Everyones model will be different because these are pretty complex.  You may have to adjust the angle to get them to sit snug,   Then round off the outside edges.  Remember this center layer will need to match the center layer of your hair brackets.  They will be joined and you want them to look as seemless as possible.

 

Then take each outer layer and round off the outer edges of those.  These outer edges will be the continuation of those on the hair brackets when joined.

 

In the photo below you can see both cheeks have been made and I took some care to make sure that they would look nice when joined with the hair brackets.  They need to look like one continuous piece.  Remember the center layer of the cheeks should stand proud a bit from the top and bottom layers....just like the profile you ended up with for the hair brackets.   This can be complex but remember...you dont want it to look like one of the horrible kit-like details you see even in the newest supposedly innovative designs.   They simplify these parts too much and they look almost toy - like.  But I know you guys can do this.   Lets make some head rail details that will stand up alongside any contemporary model or the best scratch built models out there.  You should constantly check the connection between the hair brackets and cheeks as you assemble the cheeks.  Check that they will be able to join together seamlessly.  I know you guys will have lots of questions about this.

Now once you have the cheeks built and the hair brackets we can start adding them to the model.

 

But how will you now where they go???  It gets tricky because you have to leave enough room between the cheeks for the hawse holes and you need enough room between the hair brackets to put the carvings.   And yes the figurehead needs to fit after you get done with all this.

 

So you will use the templates provided.  Cut them out and place them on the stem. Line up the top edge of the template along the top edge of the stem.  Not the gammon knee, but the top edge of the stem.   Also temporarily add the figurehead too.  Make sure everything is going to work before you start gluing these pieces into position.  Then carefully mark the bottom of the template on the stem with a sharp pencil.  This will be where you place the lower hair bracket.....but it will also tell you where the cheek needs to be so you wont place it too low or too high.  The lower cheek will be first.

Using your reference line.... place the lower cheek in position.   You should pick the longer one.  The lower cheek is slightly longer than the upper cheek.  If you beveled the back side correctly, it should fit snug in position against the planking and also along the stem.  The cheek should follow the run of the wales.....but also as it wraps onto the stem......match with the reference line you drew from the template.  Makes sense?  Hopefully you can see the pencil line I drew from the template and how the cheek sits on that line on the stem.

 

Then at last, it is time to connect the lower hair bracket.  I made the hair brackets quite a bit longer than you need,  So place the figurehead in position and determine how much you should trim the hair bracket.  Test it in position.  Note how the scroll touches the foot of the figurehead.  This will get messy and you will no doubt have to touch up the black paint later.  I also discovered that many of you may find it easier to add the friezes after you put the cheeks and hair brackets together on the model.  Because you have to work on the seam between the two pieces you may damage the friezes.  Live and learn.   But try and hide the joint as well as you can.  This is tricky work so take your time and try not to get frustrated,  Do the best you can.

 

 

To be continued in a few moments.....as its a lot to write.  I want to try and give as many details as possible because this isnt like any other kit you are gonna build.  It wont look like a kit when you are done.   Dont hesitate to ask any questions if you think I left anything out.

[Chuck]

The area between the cheeks have three laser cut layers.  They are very thin.  They vary in length.  Note below how the top edge of these three layers runs along the top of the black strake.  This might vary because I have no idea where your black strake is and if it deviated from the plans a bit you will need to get creative.  We can talk about that.  But its not the end of the world.  Hopefully you guys will read through the entire process and take more measurements before you get this far.   These pieces along with the headrails are probably some of the most complicated parts of a model project.

 

All three layers were pre bent with heat (hair dryer).  I sanded of the laser char and softened the aft edges of all the layers.  Each layer was added one at a time.  The final layer has the size and location for the hawse holes.   More on that later..

Next is the upper cheek...You should have beveled this like the lower cheek.  This one should go easier.  Note how it wraps onto the stem.  It doesnt extend above the top of the stem.  This upper cheek is also shorter on the hull as you can see.

 

You can sense the repetition....

 

Then the upper hair bracket.  Again it was designed a lot longer than you need.   Add the figure head and determine its length.   Cut it so you get a clean tight joint with the cheek.  

 

Double check your work.....do or die so to speak.   If your measurements worked out the carving should fit perfectly with a bit of room to spare between the hair brackets.  If not you could always tweak the carving so it fits as best it can.

 

Almost done now....

 

In the next photo you can see three more parts I added.   I will explain each to you but please refer back to this photo below for its position etc.

 

First is the short decorative molding along the front of the figures leg.  This is laser cut for you.  Round off the edges along its length.  Clean up the char as usual.  Its a little long and once again its best to put the figurehead in position.  Then test the fit of this molding.  Cut it to fit and glue it in position while the figurehead is temporarily in place as a guide.  It goes from the foot up to just under the skirt.

 

Next up is the bolster.  The bolster is pretty thick and laser cut for you.  Its an 1/8" thick.   This piece is too short and too thick to pre-bend.   Thats why it was layer cut 1/8" thick.   You will need to sand it to the curved shape so it fits against the hull.  You can see where it goes in that photo.  It sits between the cheeks on top of the lower cheek.   Start by sanding the back side to fit snug against the hull.   Get it nice and snug with no gaps.   The photo below shows one bolster shaped.  It will get pretty thin by the time its all shaped correctly.  Probably just a but thinner than 3/32".   It depends on how deep your cheeks ended up after your beveling and shaping of those.

 

Then shape the forward side keeping it a consistent thickness.   To finish it up round off the top edge as shown.  IMPORTANT NOTE:  Do not glue this in position.  Just make sure it fits and looks good sitting on the cheeks.  You dont want this glued on when you drill out the hawse holes.  We will be doing that next.   They would certainly get damaged. 

And then the wash cant.....The wash cant is rarely seen on any kit.  If you look at that photo you can see it temporarily tacked in position.  It sits on the underside of the lower cheek.  ....in the corner where the hull and stem meet.  It helps deflect the water and waves.   You need to sand this odd shaped piece.  Its hard to describe.  The front edge is like a knifes edge.  Sand the entire piece by rounding it off to a knifes edge along the front edge.   This will be painted black but I show it natural in the photo because you wouldnt have been able to see it.   I have since painted it black and glued it back into position.  

 

The photo below shows one of them shaped and ready for painting.

 

And here is that last picture again to show the placement of those last parts...

Now I know this looks complex.  That is because it is.   You will not see any other kit with this much detail.  Even those Chinese POF kits that everyone raves about do a rather crappy job with their headrails and cheeks.  But this is a pretty close representation to any contemporary model you might examine for an English frigate.  I know you guys can do it.  

 

I could have cut many corners and gone with something simplified and kit-like.  But I think its something you will be proud of once you finish.   Just take it slow and do lots of measuring......lots of testing.....repeat and repeat again.   Just wait till we get to the head rails....good times!!!

 

[scrubbyj427]

Looks fantastic Chuck! Truly a work of art!  When do you estimate you will have chapter 5 complete and available?

[Jim Rogers]

Simply beautiful Chuck. Hope I don’t muck it all up. Is the wash cant under the lower cheek and hair bracket?

[Chuck]

Yes its in the corner glued to the underside of both.  Once its painted black you wont even see it.
 

i still have to drill out the hawse holes and add a large knee inboard.  Then lastly drill out the scuppers.  
 

that should finish up chapter five.
 

then its all about the cannon and making a bazzilion eyebolts for them.  Fun stuff.  That will be a stand alone thing or chapter 5b.

[Ron Burns]

Those are some pretty sexy cheeks! I can't wait until it all gets released. Thanks for an immaculate job Chuck.

[Gregory]

This amounts to a tutorial on how to detail the bow and head of any number of ships..

I will be coming here often for reference.

 

2 hours ago, Chuck said:

Even those Chinese POF kits that everyone raves about do a rather crappy job with their headrails and cheeks. 

 

You may be giving away too many secrets..

 

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Really really wonderful. There are so many details and technics, which I also can later use for my Triton project.

 

I have one question. The historical model show that the upper part of the knee of the head was painted blue. Is it your personal choice to paint this black or is there another reason?

 

[Chuck]

Yes. I prefer black but the carvings arent glued on permanently yet in case I change my mind.

[James H]

No way am I jealous of that amazing work, no siree! 

[JpR62]

What more can I say? It's hard to find the right words to pay tribute to work of this quality.

This is truly an exceptional model! And we learn so much! Thank you