HMS Kingfisher 1770 by Remcohe - 1/48 - English 14-Gun Sloop - POF

[Jim Lad]

That's a nice overall view of the model, Remco.  How do you keep your work area so neat and tidy?

 

John

[EdT]

Remco, you must have some kind of magical powers to keep the frames aligned during construction without a building board. How do you do it?

 

Also, we must be polar opposites. I work mostly standing up and my workspace is usually a mess.

 

Ed

[WackoWolf]

For some reason Remco is the only one who never seems to have a mess. Dam I have a mess with just the computer section of the new work bench/shop. I also work sitting down, but I also don't have a choice with they way my back and knee is. Remco muct clean up before he takes the pictures, we all make a mess LOL. Keep the pictures coming, I have been watching this build since you started on MSW 1.

[Remcohe]

Ed no magical powers, I did use a building board to erect the frames and to make measurements inside the hull. But whenever possible I take the model from the board and work seated.

 

Ok, maybe the space are I do most of my work is tidy the rest of my shop isn't. Especially for you Joe I immediately took a picture as the shop is right now. A bit distorted as I made a panorama picture to capture the whole shop.

 

 

One might wonder why no storage on the walls, I had that in my previous shop and it takes away an enormous amount of light. One cannot have enough light :-) It looks small in the picture but the room is spacious enough measuring 4.40 x 2.70 m.

 

Remco

[Martin W]

That is an appealing workspace.  But don't the holes (for the dogs) in the butcher-block table lead to lost parts?

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[the learner]

Thank you Karl. 

 

Thanks Mark, it's just a line for positioning. I have to make a special cleat and rope to attach the blocks to the tops. You'll see.

 

Mark II, here's the how to. I used this link to understand how it works: http://www.animatedknots.com/spliceshort/index.php?Categ=splicing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

 

IMG_9290.jpeg

First the length I need is laid out and tied off at both ends. The tips of the ropes are dipped in CA to prevent from unraveling

 

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The ends are brought together and tied again

 

IMG_9294.jpeg

Then the lines are spliced using a needle, it took some time to understand how this works as its quite confusing 

 

IMG_9295.jpeg

I opened the eye of the needle so I can insert the rope easily

 

IMG_9296.jpeg

The finished splice

 

IMG_9299.jpeg

The loop is glued to the block

 

IMG_9300.jpeg

And then seized at both ends

 

IMG_9301.jpeg

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The result

 

 

Remco

 

I know it was early in the post but I like the process you used to make the splice. I my self spent 4 years splicng line when I was much younger sic, never thought I would use it again  OH well!! a good job and the link was a good teaching aid

 

Ps nice work space!

Edited October 29, 2013 by the learner

[bigtree1993]

bigtree1993,

 

     Have you read the log from the beginning like when he first started it on MSW1. You might think different about trying to buy one if you can, not too sure you can buy one of the same kits anymore unless someone wants to sell there's. There is another company that has them just can't remember who it is. Someone here will know. But Remco has put a heck of a lot of work into this, had to make things that didn't work or fit. He will tell you.

thank u ! i checked the info of this kit carefully.it is sold out  and  too difficult for me

[Remcohe]

Martin, on the left is a workbench I only use for building full size parts like jigs and furniture.

 

I had some alignment issues with the carlings so I decided to cut all the mortices for the remaining beams and marked them all using a batten. Important lesson to remember for the upper deck.... Pillars are installed temporarily and still need to be chamfered. 

 

 

Remco

[mtaylor]

Remco,

 

Excellent progress and by all standards, your work area is still neat and tidy. 

[Remcohe]

Thanks Mark

 

I have a question, without really thinking about it I cut the mortices for the tabs of the beam arm half blind, but when is was shaping the tabs of the beam arm I started thinking if this is correct. The tabs could also be the full with of the receiving beam. TFFM discribes the beam arm is bolted to the opposing beam so the half blind mortices would give extra strength but the whole fitting is different than the carling and ledges so maybe unnecessary complicated. Its just to know how it was on a real ship because once fitted the different is not noticeable unless one could crawl under the lower deck :-) 

 

 

I haven't cut the thickness of the tabs yet so I can go either way.

 

Remco

[WackoWolf]

MHO would be do it your way, either way is good and like you said you would have to craw under it to find out how it was done. Your the boos. Always glad to see a update from you. Keep the pictures coming.

[Richard Griffith]

Thank you Remco for posting pix of your progress~!  Your model seems to glow, and your workmanship is first rate.

 

Duffer

[Remcohe]

Thanks Duffer.

Your right Joe.....

 

So I continued and didn't change the mortices. Getting the round up of the deck into this special beam took some patience...

 

 

Remco

[Piet]

Yeah, sometimes we get wrapped around the axle about details that may not really be known at this day and age.  Glad you went ahead with your gut-feeling.

That's a mighty fine knee beam you got there, looks nice and crisp.  It helps using good lumber.

 

Cheers,

[amateur]

Hi Remco,

Since when is 'you can't see it in the final result' a valid argument for you?

(oops, did I say that ??  )

 

Jan

[Remcohe]

Thanks Piet.

Jan what can I say, the MSW Oracle didn't answer and I went forward taking a 50% bet I got it right 

 

Meanwhile, more knee's opposing knee's gratings and so on. Everything is loosely fitted  before marking the mortices for the ledges. Doing tasks in batches certainly speeds things up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remco

[dvm27]

Very nice job on those crossed loding knees, Remco! I love your little pin holders.

[druxey]

Exemplary work, Remco!

[Trussben]

Agree, that looks like a serious PITA to shape that knee but you make it look easy, were there any sent to the scrap bin in the manufacturing?

 

Ben

[Remcohe]

Thanks guys.

Greg the pins are easy to make, I think they rank amongst the top 10 most used tools in my build.

Ben, with my scroll saw they were relative easy to make and there were no remakes :-) 

 

I couldn't find an appropriated sized piece of brass for the iron knee so I made it from boxwood and tinted it black with Fiebing's leather paint

I'm also doing lot's of mortice cutting for the remaining carlings and ledges.

 

 

A little off topic, but it was time to make a better storage for my chisels. They used to wander over my bench  with the tip protected by a little piece of isolation foam. This was a nice little project, keeps them safe and organized  

 

 

 

 

Remco

 

Edited November 17, 2013 by Remco

[Mirabell61]

I like your build Remco

beautifull neat and tidy handcraft work

 

Nils

[SJSoane]

 

Hi Remco,

 

I have just been able to catch up with your build. You are a consummate craftsman, and an inspiration. I found it challenging and tedious to fay the arm of a lodging knee to the curved face of the beam. You did a perfect job!

 

Best wishes,

 

mark 

[Piet]

That's one sweet looking ship Remco! and a lovely chisel box too   

[WackoWolf]

Nice chisel box. Keep your tools safe from falling and so forth is a smart thing. Keep the pictures coming.

[Maury S]

Remco, Do you have any pics of how you made the pins?  I have lots of very thin pins, but the knobs are too big for some work (like you're showing)  Thanks

Maury

[Remcohe]

Thanks guys for your very kind compliments.

 

Sure Maury, the pictures speak for them selfs. I use spring steel wire 0,5 mm cut to different lengths and the tip slightly grinded in to a point like a needle. After the copper wire is coiled it's silver soldered to the pin. I use a potato to act as a heat sink, you definitely don't want to anneal the steel, this happened to my first batch of pins  and the steel becomes soft. 

 

 

 

 

 

Remco

[Rustyj]

Okay now I can make some pins! Thanks

[michael mott]

Thanks for the explanation Remco I wondered about them as well. The copper gives a nice grip it look like.

 

Michael

[Remcohe]

Go for it guy's make lots and lots of pins  They are key to position parts temporarily, I don't exaggerate but I think any particular beam in this build is taken in and out at least 100 times to position parts, mark mortices etc etc. 

 

So today I did a little detailing of the gratings. I simulated the pins that were used by making small holes with a needle and then taking the same needle tip loaded with graphite to enhance the holes. This really takes your mind off-line  after a busy day 

 

 

 

 

For comparison, the 'big' bolts on the corners are 0,4 mm

 

Remco

 

[dvm27]

A fantastic little detail, Remco! I had forgotten I had done this on my main deck gratings and sure enough, they were there. I believe I'm the only person who ever noticed this detail on my model...and promptly forgot about it. I also notice how perfect your gratings and battens fit the coamings and head ledges. Coincidence, or did you build them around the finished gratings?