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Posted

This is my second build as an elderly novice builder. My first build was the Billings Bluenose,which although was a bad choice for a novice because of 1:100 scale was very "finicky" and frustrating for a builder with less than perfect eyesight and arthritic fingers. However I learnt an immense amount and gained valuable experience. 

I bought this quite elderly Scottish Maid kit second hand off eBay very cheap as ,as often happens,the original owner received it as a gift from his wife for Christmas but was dismayed to open it to discover simply a box full of wood and some plans. He didnt wish to undertake what he saw as a highly complex endeavour so stuck it on top of his wardrobe.

Just finished checking the contents and all appears to be there.Looking forward to building a larger boat (1:50 scale).

So mon braves I will post my struggles,successes and errors. ( of which there are likely to be many) so anyone following the build will doubtless feel much happier about their own builds .:)

 

 

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Posted

Trying to reconcile the instructions/diagrams with the plans as the instructions show that A2 is the glueing of support blocks onto the formers and false deck. They then show much later in A4 how to fix the false deck. Once realised that the sequence of instructions and diagrams are not in the correct sequence my head is clearer.

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Posted

Fitted the false deck with pins. Wonder how I can support the keel when I come to hammer pins in when planking. Can't see how the extortionately priced Amati gripping device would grip the keel sufficiently to enable the pins to be hammered in to enable planking. I think I need to make some kind of support device myself. What do you folks use to offer support to the keel when planking?

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Posted (edited)

As I have had no interest in my build as for some reason my build is listed in black rather than blue.As I am unlikely to receive any advice or comments on my build I won't bother to post any more.  Disappointed in the site,

My involvement in the site has ended

I'll look for encouragement and support elsewhere 

Edited by mispeltyoof
Delete
Posted
23 hours ago, mispeltyoof said:

Trying to reconcile the instructions/diagrams with the plans as the instructions show that A2 is the glueing of support blocks onto the formers and false deck. They then show much later in A4 how to fix the false deck. Once realised that the sequence of instructions and diagrams are not in the correct sequence my head is clearer.

I don't know what A2 and A4 is. Yes, sometimes the instructions will be out of sequence. That is why it is best to read through the instructions to get an idea how it is to go together and decide the best way to go about it.

 

23 hours ago, mispeltyoof said:

Fitted the false deck with pins. Wonder how I can support the keel when I come to hammer pins in when planking. Can't see how the extortionately priced Amati gripping device would grip the keel sufficiently to enable the pins to be hammered in to enable planking. I think I need to make some kind of support device myself. What do you folks use to offer support to the keel when planking?

I never use nails because I found out the hard way that you run the risk of splitting a bulkhead. One could pre drill them but still the risk is there. Like not drilling them straight or missing the mark all together. But that is the builders choice.

 

1 hour ago, mispeltyoof said:

As I have had no interest in my build as for some reason my build is listed in black rather than blue.As I am unlikely to receive any advice or comments on my build I won't bother to post any more.  Disappointed in the site,

My involvement in the site has ended

I'll look for encouragement and support elsewhere

I am sorry you feel that way. I am a relatively  new myself and have found great support here at MW. But I don't expect it to come right away.

RussR

"Peace is not something you wish for; It's something you make, Something you do, Something you are, And something you give away" by Robert Fulghum

Posted

The timing of posts has a large effect on whether or not one receives comments.  It often just depends who sees the posting when it occurs.  Since there are often a large number of posts (especially in the Kits area), build logs can become overlooked very easily.   If I have a question on any given technique or I am really stuck on something, I'll go to the relevant "techniques" area and pose the question as opposed to bringing the question up in my own log.   If a log has been established for a while and already has a number of followers, there will be a higher likelihood of questions being answered within the log.

 

I believe the other thing which occurs is that we all go through "phases" of interest, and only view certain "types" of logs during these phases.   Just like life, any type of community like this can be fairly random.. :)

 

 

Alan

Posted
22 minutes ago, knightyo said:

The timing of posts has a large effect on whether or not one receives comments.  It often just depends who sees the posting when it occurs.  Since there are often a large number of posts (especially in the Kits area), build logs can become overlooked very easily.   If I have a question on any given technique or I am really stuck on something, I'll go to the relevant "techniques" area and pose the question as opposed to bringing the question up in my own log.   If a log has been established for a while and already has a number of followers, there will be a higher likelihood of questions being answered within the log.

 

I believe the other thing which occurs is that we all go through "phases" of interest, and only view certain "types" of logs during these phases.   Just like life, any type of community like this can be fairly random.. :)

 

 

Alan

....particularly with new posters.  I have had that happen before where nobody posts (because it gets lost in the shuffle), then people find it and comment...and it gets posted for others to see.  Never give up.  Never surrender.  Post often instead of single long posts.

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

Posted
2 hours ago, mispeltyoof said:

As I have had no interest in my build as for some reason my build is listed in black rather than blue.As I am unlikely to receive any advice or comments on my build I won't bother to post any more.  Disappointed in the site,

My involvement in the site has ended

I'll look for encouragement and support elsewhere 

Not sure what you mean by "black rather than blue". As others have noted, content is added rapidly to this site, and your posts, which were made in quick succession, may have gotten lost in the shuffle. I assure you that no one was deliberately ignoring you. However, deciding after less than 24 hours that the site is unsupportive and unencouraging seems like a bit of a rush to judgment.

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, DS Børøysund

Posted
2 hours ago, mispeltyoof said:

As I have had no interest in my build as for some reason my build is listed in black rather than blue.As I am unlikely to receive any advice or comments on my build I won't bother to post any more.  Disappointed in the site,

My involvement in the site has ended

I'll look for encouragement and support elsewhere 

Sorry what do you mean "Black rather than blue"?

Regards

Paul

 

The clerk of the cheque's yacht of sheerness

Current build HMS Sirius (1797) 1:48 scratch POF from NMM plans

HMS Winchelsea by chuck 1:48

Cutter cheerful by chuck 1:48

Previous builds-

Elidir - Thames steam barge

Cutty Sark-Billings boats

Wasa - billings boats

Among others 😁

 

Posted
10 minutes ago, paulsutcliffe said:

what do you mean "Black rather than blue"?

The text for the Link (Ship's Name) in all new build logs in the Quick-Find Indexes is a different colour to the others that have been there a while. It's something to do with the spreadsheet I use, and it changes to the "normal" colour eventually. I don't know why, and it's no big deal.

 

The link works normally.

 

Danny

Cheers, Danny

________________________________________________________________________________
Current Build :    Forced Retirement from Modelling due to Health Issues

Build Logs :   Norfolk Sloop  HMS Vulture - (TFFM)  HMS Vulture Cross-section  18 foot Cutter    Concord Stagecoach   18th Century Longboat in a BOTTLE 

CARD Model Build Logs :   Mosel   Sydney Opera House (Schreiber-Bogen)   WWII Mk. IX Spitfire (Halinski)  Rolls Royce Merlin Engine  Cape Byron Lighthouse (HMV)       Stug 40 (Halinski)    Yamaha MT-01   Yamaha YA-1  HMS Hood (Halinski)  Bismarck (GPM)  IJN Amatsukaze 1940 Destroyer (Halinski)   HMVS Cerberus   Mi24D Hind (Halinski)  Bulgar Steam Locomotive - (ModelikTanker and Beer Wagons (Modelik)  Flat Bed Wagon (Modelik)  Peterbuilt Semi Trailer  Fender Guitar  

Restorations for Others :  King of the Mississippi  HMS Victory
Gallery : Norfolk Sloop,   HMAT Supply,   HMS Bounty,   HMS Victory,   Charles W. Morgan,   18' Cutter for HMS Vulture,   HMS Vulture,  HMS Vulture Cross-section,             18th Century Longboat in a Bottle 

Other Previous Builds : Le Mirage, Norske Love, King of the Mississippi

Posted

Mispeltyoof - I am very sorry that you did not get a quick response to your question in your post. I have had a couple of questions overlooked in my posts but there are many builds going on at the same time. This site has many talented members and this site offers a wealth of knowledge in resources. As someone who is fairly new to modeling, I do not have a lot of responses or likes on my posts, but when I do receive one, I cherish the fact that someone took the time to respond and/or offer me advice and/or encouragement to help me move on with my progress. I hope you will reconsider your wanting to leave this site. If you choose otherwise, I wish you smooth sailing on your projects 

:cheers:🏁

Robert O

Posted

Hi, I can tell by your electrical sockets you are based in the UK. You will find most of the active members on here are in the States or Australia. This means we post at different times and replies can be slow.

 

I dropped into your log to look because I have brought an almost identical kit off ebay, The Rhoda Mary. I have noticed that if you complete kits that are not currently in vogue, or not normally available you naturally get less interest. Perhaps why the suggestion to drop questions in the technique area gets a better response.

 

Incidentally noticed my kit has exactly same instructions which means they may be generic and so do not match your model. I am going to be interested what you do with the bulwarks as there seems to be no support for them other than they overlap below the deck level slightly. The plywood is very flexible, better than that in my current HMS Cruiser.

Current Build(s):

  • H.M.S Diana 1794 - Caldercraft 1:64 Scale

 

Completed Builds:

 

 

 

 

Posted
On 11/8/2018 at 12:01 PM, mispeltyoof said:

Fitted the false deck with pins. Wonder how I can support the keel when I come to hammer pins in when planking. Can't see how the extortionately priced Amati gripping device would grip the keel sufficiently to enable the pins to be hammered in to enable planking. I think I need to make some kind of support device myself. What do you folks use to offer support to the keel when planking?

IMG_2766.JPG

The Amati Keel Clamper is a very versatile and useful tool. I do not use nails to hold planking in place. I use Bull dog clips and clamps. In a pinch I may use the occasional tee pin. 

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Regards,

Jim Rogers

 

Damn the Torpedoes , Full speed ahead.   Adm David Farragut.

Posted
On 11/8/2018 at 3:01 PM, mispeltyoof said:

Fitted the false deck with pins. Wonder how I can support the keel when I come to hammer pins in when planking. Can't see how the extortionately priced Amati gripping device would grip the keel sufficiently to enable the pins to be hammered in to enable planking. I think I need to make some kind of support device myself. What do you folks use to offer support to the keel when planking?

IMG_2766.JPG

I usually plank my hulls in my lap.  I feel that with the angle, and the force needed to insert pins into the plywood bulkheads, it's much easier to do so in my lap.

 

I also don't hammer pins to set the planking.  Instead, I use this tool to help set the planks on the bulkheads or filler blocks:

 

https://www.micromark.com/Spike-Insertion-Plier

 

You don't have to push the pins all the way in - just enough to have the plank firmly against the bulkhead while the glue is drying.  It's quick and easy, and then you can remove the pins when the glue has dried and use them again.

 

Of course, this is only the approach used for the first planking on a two planking hull.

 

 

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Posted (edited)

I usually lay the model on its side when planking.  

 

I just put it on the building board so that the board supports the model and use a tack hammer to drive in pins, or nails, if they are needed.

 

 I would read some of the planking tutorials on the site.  Chuck, one of the admins, and an expert model builder, pre-bends the planks and uses CA to attach to the model.  He doesn’t even use pins or nails.

Edited by GrandpaPhil

Building:

1:200 Russian Battleship Oryol (Orel card kit)

1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)

Posted

Good site good people keep posting looking good:cheers:

John Allen

 

Current builds HMS Victory-Mamoli

On deck

USS Tecumseh, CSS Hunley scratch build, Double hull Polynesian canoe (Holakea) scratch build

 

Finished

Waka Taua Maori War Canoe, Armed Launch-Panart, Diligence English Revenue Cutter-Marine  Model Co. 


 

Posted
9 hours ago, GrandpaPhil said:

I usually lay the model on its side when planking.  

 

I just put it on the building board so that the board supports the model and use a tack hammer to drive in pins, or nails, if they are needed.

 

 I would read some of the planking tutorials on the site.  Chuck, one of the admins, and an expert model builder, pre-bends the planks and uses CA to attach to the model.  He doesn’t even use pins or nails.

Gorilla glue now has CA with an applicator brush that is very handy. Yellow cap and about a 15 sec set time.

Regards,

Jim Rogers

 

Damn the Torpedoes , Full speed ahead.   Adm David Farragut.

Posted
19 hours ago, ccoyle said:

deciding after less than 24 hours that the site is unsupportive and unencouraging seems like a bit of a rush to judgment.

    I would have to agree with that assessment.  While I am sorry that he gave up so fast, perhaps the first things that he needs to hone up on are his patience and perseverance.  It seems to me that they are two essential traits we all have to have lots of to work on our projects.  When ever I start to loose my patience, :default_wallbash:I know that it's time to take a break before I do something that I'll quickly regret! (Don't ask me how I know this.)

Dave

“You’ve just got to know your limitations”  Dirty Harry

Current Builds:  Modified MS 1/8” scale Phantom, and modified plastic/wood hybrid of Aurora 1:87 scale whaling bark Wanderer.

Past Builds: (Done & sold) 1/8” scale A.J. Fisher 2 mast schooner Challenge, 1/6” scale scratch built whaler Wanderer w/ plans & fittings from A.J. Fisher, and numerous plastic kits including 1/8” scale Revell U.S.S. Constitution (twice), Cutty Sark, and Mayflower.

                  (Done & in dry dock) Modified 1/8” scale Revell U.S.S. Constitution w/ wooden deck and masting [too close encounter w/conc. floor in move]

Hope to get to builds: MS 3/16” scale Pride of Baltimore II,  MS 1/2” scale pinky schooner Glad Tidings,  a scratch build 3/16” scale  Phantom, and a scratch build 3/16" scale Denis Sullivan.

Posted

Vince P .In response to you ? Re workdesk,it is a computer desk though not that 'fancy" it's a solid pine desk that can be bought as self assembly on line for £100. The work station at the end is by Ochre I believe and was £50 for Cornwall ships. 

A massive purchase for me as it cost nearly more than my Scottish Maid kit.

Posted

 

Hello, you have bought a nice kit. It is of the best time of Artesania Latina, later it has been getting worse. I put some pictures of the support that I use, made with a plywood and some boards, for the cover of the cover goes very well. If you do not like this, think about how to make a support that is useful, and comfortable. Cheer up. A greeting.

 

(Hola, has comprado un bonito kit. Es de la mejor época de Artesania Latina, posteriormente ha ido empeorando.
Te pongo unas fotos del soporte que yo utilizo, realizado con un contrachapado y unas tablas, para el forrado de la cubierta va muy bien. Si este no te gusta, piensa en como hacer un soporte que te resulte util, y comodo. Animo.
Un saludo.)

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Posted

Hello, I am glad to see that you have checked back in again. I don't know if you have seen this finished build log for a Scottish Maid (clickable link) completed by another member, but I think you may find it very helpful as you work along. Other finished build logs can also be great learning tools, even if they are not of your particular kit.

 

Regarding support methods, I'm another one of those members who has done his wooden hulls in his lap. Probably not everyone's cup of tea, but it has worked for me so far.

 

Take care!

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, DS Børøysund

Posted

Old school keel holder. I don't know how everyone else does it but I hold my model on my lap as I secure planks and use the frame/holder just to set it in when not working to keep it from warping

20180625_131553.jpg

Completed scratch build: The armed brig "Badger" 1777

Current scratch build: The 36 gun frigate "Unite" 1796

Completed kits: Mamoli "Alert", Caldercraft "Sherbourne"

Posted

Glad to see you back and happy to be aboard your log.

 

As far as holding the keel there are some great ideas in build logs to borrow. I think simple is better. I know sometimes we try to over think things.

The heart is happiest when the head and the hands work together.

Al

 

Current Builds:

HMS Halifax 1/48 POF Lumberyard Kit

Model Shipways Glad Tidings

Acoustic Guitar Build FINISHED

Posted

Thanks to Landlubber Mike re not using pins on planking. After bevelling the formers I realised that trying to hammer pins into them would be very difficult. As a beginner I find that I am only just realising that all in the schematic is not set in stone and any variation not punished by whatever ship building demons lurk out there. I will ignore the pins also. Thanks also to the advice to try simply gripping the hull between knees. It works fine :)

Posted (edited)

Now shaped the bow and stern fillers from the large square wooden blocks provided. I presumed that this is what the un-numbered blocks are for. Had to be creative as to shape of stern as no really clear pictures in instructions. Figure I'll be able to adjust shape if necessary after planking.

The photos show the hull in my plastic crate that I use as a sanding booth. Room for the hull and my Dremel ,hands etc and directs 90% of the sawdust into the crate rather than onto my desk /computer etc. Now to begin the first layer of planking (after studying what others have done on here.). Like always hitting a sore thumb I keep knocking the forward mast off as I move the hull  thankfully easily reglued :)

 

 

 

 

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Edited by mispeltyoof

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