Medway Longboat 1742 -1/2" scale by Rustyj - FINISHED

[Rustyj]

This the start of my Medway Longboat 1742 - 1/2" scale build log.

 

I'm ready to go once the Medway Longboat is released and I manage to purchase one.

 

This group build will be a lot of fun!

[Rustyj]

Medway kit purchased Thursday AM, Shipped that same Thursday, Arrived Saturday, Priceless!!!!!

 

As expected the contents of the box were packed very well and nothing was damaged in transport.

All of the sheets of wood were very nicely laser cut with reference numbering etched on the wood to assist in identification.

The yellow Alaskan cedar has a very nice look to it and the cedar aroma is an unexpected added treat.

 

As Greg said "This sets the bar for what ship model kits should look like!" and I couldn't agree more!

 

Ships Plans,

 

Packing List

 

Friezes

 

Packaging

 

Various laser cut sheets

 

Comparing Queen Anne Barge Frame Size

 

The rest of the kit parts and strip wood

 

 

I marveled at how Chuck used the laser to cut joints and a channel to the correct depth for us!

 

 

I have a couple of minor projects to finish first but the temptation to start is like an itch that you can't reach to scratch!!!!!!

[JeffT]

The kit looks awesome. Us guys out west have to wait a little longer for ours.

[JpR62]

As usual with kit from Syren Ship Model Company, everything is perfect. Looking forward to receiving mine...

[Tim Murphy]

I'am not surprised with the quality of the Kit. I have never seen a bad product from Chuck.

Hopefully I will see my Kit on Tuesday! ( no mail on Monday, Fed Holiday.)

[Rustyj]

Hi All,

 

Here is my first update on the Medway Longboat. 

 

I didn't have a huzzywutchet but I did use my Byrnes table saw. I set the blade height and did a test cut with scrap wood from the keel billet.

 

 

Once I had the depth set correctly I "milled" the keel pieces. I left them a "hair" thick and then filed them to a smooth fit.

 

 

I then glued them up and added the four 3/32" notched keel pieces leaving a 1/32" rabbit on each side. I followed Chucks recommendation to

add the bow piece first then the two pieces at the stern and lastly the long piece to the top of  the keel. They all fit perfectly with no sanding adjustment needed.

 

 

Bolts were simulated using black monofilament that was supplied with the kit.

Next up is to add the transom and the begin assembling the frames. 

 

Great kit with very precise fitting pieces. Another Syren gem!

[JeffT]

Nice work Rusty, you're off to a great start.

[Chuck]

Nicely executed.....😁

[MEDDO]

Nice use of the saw. It seems that it can provide a nice joint.

[Rustyj]

Thanks Jeff, Michael and Chuck and all the likes!

 

The saw works real nice once you get it set properly.

[kurtvd19]

1 hour ago, Rustyj said:

The saw works real nice once you get it set properly.

Rusty:

I found a very easy way to set the saw to make the half-lap joints.  I have a combination height, depth & thickness gauge from a company called iGaging (igaging.com) that takes all the guess work out of setting the saw up.  Use the gauge to measure the wood thickness - have the wood on a flat surface.  Divide the thickness by 2.  Using the iGage tool raise/lower the blade to match the divided thickness.  You can make a test cut if you want, but unless you screwed up the math it's going to be right on.

The tool is #35-0906 and it's priced anywhere from $16.95 to $22.00 - check carefully as some have free shipping.  Rockler also lists the tool.  It's got a 6" range of measurement.  I have several of this company's products and they are all a good value for our use.  I showed the use of this tool for making half lap joints during a round table on saw use and safety at the NRG Conference last month.

 

Take care,

Kurt

[Rustyj]

Thanks Kurt. Already put it on my "tool I need" list. Also the key to your statement "unless you screwed up the math" which is one of my specialties.

[kurtvd19]

Rusty:

In my original post - prior to editing I said "Use a calculator to divide by 2" - because that's what I do - but I deleted the bit about using a calculator even though I would always use one.  Look at it as another tool we get use in building our models...🤩

Kurt

[Rustyj]

The fun continues!!!!!!

 

I have glued the transom to the stern post being careful to keep it perpendicular to the keel at a right angle.

 

 

 

I've now started on the various frames. First I'll prep the 5 one piece frames. To temporarily strengthen the frames heavy packing tape

was placed across the laser cut seam. It is placed on both sides with little folded over tabs for easy removal. Also a small piece of wood

strip was glued across the top of the frame. These frames are thin and delicate especially if you heavy handed like me.These wood

pieces will not be seen once the model is planked .

 

One of the frames with tape and strip wood added.

 

After this there are 15 two piece frames to make. 

[Rustyj]

I've prepared the five single frames and test fit them to the building board and the keel. 

The frames needed minor sanding to fit the building board and no adjustment to fit 

the keel. 

 

 

I've started to assemble the two parts frames. The floor and top timbers only need a little sanding of the laser char.

Take it from past experience that forgetting to do this makes for extra work later on.

 

 

Here is the first frame ready for assembly and then assembled. The laser reference line makes lining the 

the top timber and the floor much easier.

 

 

One down fourteen to go!

[Rustyj]

Cold, dank miserable weather has settled in and that means .............More Shop Time!!!!!!

 

All of the frames have been completed and each one went together without any issues.

 

I then proceeded to test fit them to the building board and the keel. Just like the first single frames adjustments

only needed to be made to the building board slots. They all had a nice snug fit but slid out nicely so hopefully

when the time comes to remove them from the building board all will go smoothly.

 

 

The fore frames are glued to the keel and drying. The aft frames will be glued in later today once the glue has set.

I am using titebond glue and having built the Royal Barge this kind of seems like a larger deja vu moment.

 

Thanks for stopping by.

[Rustyj]

All the frames have been added to the keel, dried and both halves of building board taped together 

with the ever popular duct tape.

 

 

Next it's time to delicately fair the frames. I will be sanding them with 220 and 320 grit sandpaper. 

[rjones726]

Lookin' good Rusty.

 

I'm right there with you. The cold, wet weather has moved into the PNW today so I came home from work and finished gluing the keel to the frames. I'm sitting down with a glass of wine and a fire. Eventually I will take some photos and update my build log.

 

Have fun!

Rob

[Chuck]

Really nice!!!!  Just as it is supposed to look at this stage.

 

Chuck

[Jim Rogers]

On 11/19/2018 at 4:33 PM, Rustyj said:

The fun continues!!!!!!

 

I have glued the transom to the stern post being careful to keep it perpendicular to the keel at a right angle.

 

 

 

I've now started on the various frames. First I'll prep the 5 one piece frames. To temporarily strengthen the frames heavy packing tape

was placed across the laser cut seam. It is placed on both sides with little folded over tabs for easy removal. Also a small piece of wood

strip was glued across the top of the frame. These frames are thin and delicate especially if you heavy handed like me.These wood

pieces will not be seen once the model is planked .

 

One of the frames with tape and strip wood added.

 

After this there are 15 two piece frames to make. 

How will those wood strips effect removal of the frames later on? Aren’t the frames removed at the laser cut.? I am at this point now and I understand the wood making the frame more sturdy, I don’t understand the you won’t see it when it is framed. Won’t it be gone?

[Rustyj]

Hi Rob,  Thanks and I look forward to seeing your progress.

 

Thanks Chuck. I'll probably jinx myself now but everything has been going together like a charm!

 

Hi Jim, Chuck said add them so I did.  

 

Really I used thin, 1/32', thick cedar from the kit and it should cut easily. Also I'm confident that

if they do show I can remove them later. I would rather have to do that then risk breaking a frame

fairing them which I'm currently doing. So far so good.

[Rustyj]

Hi Jim.

 

Ok you made me curious and that can be a bad thing for me. I have finished fairing the stern area so I did a test

removal of the additional strip placed on the frame. I took my x-acto and slowly stripped the piece off and when

almost to the frame I gently finished with a sanding stick.

 

 

As you can see you can barely see where it was. I'll leave the others in place and once I get to the

eight row of planking I'll remove the others. I hope this helps you.

[Chuck]

Even if you didnt remove it at all.....it wont be seen.  There is an inboard sheer strake that is wide enough to completely cover these little strips.  It wont be seen even if you leave them there.  Try not to over think it!!!!!  Also.....you will be thinning down the frames at the sheer so much that the frame will only be about 3/64" - 1/16" wide.   See the photo.....I never removed the strengthening strips on the frames.  Everything is just peachy!!!

 

[Rustyj]

Boy that is beautiful! 

 

I've faired the frames and added the tick marks as instructed. I also used some pinstripe tape to "line off" the run of the planks.

I used a batten to check the frames as I went. I used 220 and 320 sandpaper. Slow and gentile.

 

 

This is the initial laying out of the lines. I'll tweek them to get a nice run and the mark the frames.

 

 

 

[Chuck]

That looks good.  Dont forget to use those two templates at the bow and stern to check how your lining off matched with mine.  This is important only because you guys are using planks that are laser cut and spiled to fit my lining off.

 

Chuck

[Rustyj]

19 minutes ago, Chuck said:

Don't forget to use those two templates at the bow and stern to check how your lining off matched with mine.  This is important only because you guys are using planks that are laser cut and spiled to fit my lining off.

 

 

Absolutely will! Thanks

[Rustyj]

The fairing completed with no frame damage. That's a first!

 

The garboard strake was interesting. Chucks pre-spiled planks are real nice but they do require some work on our part.

Below you see the aft most pieces and how much they need to be twisted and bent to the correct form for a nice tight fit.

They were heat bent with a hair dryer I commandeered from the Admiral sometime ago. Ok I asked nicely and she gave it to me. 

 

 

 

It took about and hour per side to get a nice fit. One down 8 to go! 

[Chuck]

That looks very good.  I would also mention that you should try not to remove any char from the edges of these planks other than what is needed to adjust them for a tight fit.  If you get any gaps between strakes, sand the to close the gaps but that should be it otherwise you run the risk of sanding your planks too narrow and you wont be able to follow your lining out marks.   It really isnt needed to get a tight fit....and you will be running a pencil over the edges to simulate caulking anyway.

 

Chuck

[Thistle17]

Rusty in the back of my mind I have been thinking this build could be a good topic for a future meeting. Also I would like to entice others within the group to do a group build as this is not only a classic but is such a good vehicle to understand so many aspects of model ship building without a long term engagement. Next meeting maybe you could expound on your impressions of the project.

Joe

[Trussben]

Very nice Rusty - you are motoring right along - makes me want to start mine now.

 

ben