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Sassafras 12 by ccoyle - Chesapeake Light Craft - FINISHED - 1:1 scale canoe - you read that right


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Posted

Looking good, Chris. 

Jack
 "No one is as smart as all of us" -  Is ón cheann a thagann an cheird  The craft comes from the head
---------------------------------------------
Current buildUS Constellation

Non-ship builds: USCG UH-65A Dolphin   M16 Multi-gun motor carriage diorama  M4A3 Sherman Tanks dioramas

Completed build log(s): 1888 50 ft Gaff-rigged Ice Yacht Scratch Build The Sullivans (DD 537) Liberty Ship SS John W Brown  USS England (DE 635), Artesania Latina Titanic Lifeboat
Other: Rhinebeck Aerodrome Tour
 

Posted

Ugh. Tightening the stitches has so far been much easier said than done. First of all, I have broken a fair number of stitches during the process and had to replace them. Second is the issue with getting panels to seat into their rabbets properly. Here's one side of the canoe showing properly seated and stitched panels.

 

sass22.thumb.jpg.81edbb261692237bb8e7c3a8842969a3.jpg

 

The exact opposite side of the boat refused to cooperate. I eventually hit upon a solution, but it involves removing about a half-dozen stitches and re-doing them. The unstitched panels want to create a roughly 1" wide gaping maw between them. I can squeeze the panels together -- I just can't stitch them at the same time! Which is what I attempted the first time around, and of course it didn't go to plan.

 

sass23.thumb.jpg.90fd6dc5fa4d1d697ccfeb087a6fb468.jpg

 

To finish this correction, I'm going to have to wait until an extra pair of hands becomes available this evening. Much of the problem with the bending is due, I believe, to the stiff 1x1 rub rails. In retrospect, I think it may have been better to stitch the panels first, then install the rails, but hey -- I followed the directions.

 

Cheers!

Chris Coyle

Greer, South Carolina
When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk. - Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Mitsubishi A6M5a,

 

Posted

Hang in there CC!  Just wondering (not wanting to continue the painful memory) if the stitches with the provided kit, or your purchased material, broke more or less.  I have no idea why that seems so important when the more important point is that you are doing a great job, and have done well considering having only two hands (and two feet, just saying....).  😃 Good luck soon to be paddler.....

Posted

Too late now, but using safety wire pliers would be a good answer to tying off all those "stitches".   

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted

I probably should have said this earlier but a lot of stitch and glue builds use cable ties. Easier to tighten than twisting wire.

Posted
1 hour ago, Bedford said:

I probably should have said this earlier but a lot of stitch and glue builds use cable ties.

 

Yep, this I knew -- we call them "zip ties" in these parts. I thought about these many times while twisting various wires. Of course, using them would have required drilling out all of the holes larger.

Chris Coyle

Greer, South Carolina
When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk. - Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Mitsubishi A6M5a,

 

Posted

nice progress Chris...will you have to calk in the seams?   

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

Posted
2 hours ago, popeye the sailor said:

will you have to calk in the seams?

 

The seams will be epoxied inside and out. The entire hull also gets coated with unthickened epoxy resin inside and out, and the bottom panels will also be fiberglassed inside and out.

Chris Coyle

Greer, South Carolina
When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk. - Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Mitsubishi A6M5a,

 

Posted

So, I made further progress, but you don't get any pictures -- because I botched it. 🤨 I thought I had the consistency of a batch of epoxy correct, but in reality it was too thin. Made a bit of a mess, and I have to re-do part of the task. Pics later ... maybe.

Chris Coyle

Greer, South Carolina
When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk. - Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Mitsubishi A6M5a,

 

Posted

Not gonna like it  Chris, but you will sort it.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted

Been epoxying seams -- first step is to "tack weld" between the stitches. Instructions said to make the epoxy the consistency of hollandaise sauce -- big help. 🙄  First batch was too thick, second was too thin. Still have about a third of the tack welding left to do, but I ran out of steam for the evening.

 

sass24.thumb.jpg.09f1faee0b3a64cd00a70790143c2b52.jpg

Chris Coyle

Greer, South Carolina
When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk. - Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Mitsubishi A6M5a,

 

Posted

It looks great.  When I was building the Pygmy kayak I usually made the thickened epoxy about the consistency of peanut butter.  The problem is the bigger the globs the more you have to sand/carve the extra off.  With a clinker hull that would be harder to do.  I ended up using one of these things and it worked out pretty well.

 

IMG_3021.thumb.jpeg.80b42312caaed2cf22e2e5f4d4a2f124.jpeg

Posted

Looking good  - The "Pointy" end is looking  well - Pointy     - you are doing fine work  Not easy at  Full Scale   all your hard work will be worth it in the end.

 

As an example of a "Not"  very good project  - my late farther once built me a square wooden  paddling pool  -  it didn't work  fell apart  but the good news  - atleast  it watered the plants in the garden.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted

I forgot to edit my post last night -- I got up a second wind and whipped up a last batch of resin. It was like a Goldilocks moment -- it came out just right. Let me just say that getting the right consistency made a BIG difference in both the speed of finishing the task and its neatness. So tonight I get to have a clip-n-pull party for all those stitches, oh boy! Then we'll get to see what it looks like without the "porcupine" visual effect (or "cactus," as someone at work called it).

Chris Coyle

Greer, South Carolina
When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk. - Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Mitsubishi A6M5a,

 

Posted

Sand paper is your friend, for now but you'll come to hate it.

One tip I learned part way through sanding epoxy is use wet&dry with a little water and once the "dust" becomes paste it really starts cutting well

Posted

It's a neat little boat, Chris. You're doing a bang-up job. How did you overcome the gap issue? 

Current Builds: Sternwheeler from the Susquehanna River's Hard Coal Navy

                            Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                            Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                      1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

looks great Chris.......inside looks really good :)   must have been fun plugg'in all those holes  ;) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Progress continues, but it's not terribly exciting. The next step of the build is to prepare for fiberglassing the inside of the hull. The major component of this prep is to sand smooth the fillets around the bulkheads and to clean up the messy spots.

 

This is one end of the hull finished up. I did about five hours of sanding last weekend, but I didn't keep track of how much total time the job required.

sass27.thumb.jpg.6f29009725c583c019518c94ac34b981.jpg

 

The other end of the hull is about half done. Here's one side, on which sanding has barely started. You can see it looks pretty rough and there's a lot of slop to clean up.

sass28.thumb.jpg.4e7ffa4bebd796b377dded42bcf74089.jpg

 

And here's the other half, which was today's task and is about 95% done. Lots of fine dust all around. I had to stop for the day because the sandpaper was wearing my fingertips raw.

 

That's all for now!

 

sass29.jpg

Chris Coyle

Greer, South Carolina
When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk. - Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Mitsubishi A6M5a,

 

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

Milestone: Yesterday I finished sanding all of the interior fillets and assorted oopsies. I also cleaned up the puzzle joints. Ridding the hull of all the fine dust posed an interesting problem, because I do not have a suitable vacuum for the task. However, I hit upon a nifty solution. After using a whisk to get most of the dust out, I took the canoe outside and blew the remainder out with my leaf blower. It worked a treat, too! Now, unless I missed something in the instructions (I will double-check, of course), we should be all set for interior fiberglassing.

 

sass30.thumb.jpg.4eb8cb8a983a2f3d26c7f85b798b7aa7.jpg

Chris Coyle

Greer, South Carolina
When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk. - Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Mitsubishi A6M5a,

 

Posted

Chris,  Very Nice work!

 

A suggestion-  I assume that the bulkheaded ends are for flotation.  A number of years ago I built a similar canoe from Tom Hill plans using the glued lapstrake method,  the same idea as your stitch and glue but a different process.  Anyhow, I filled the chambers at each end with urethane foam; the same stuff used for weatherproofing buildings.  If the canoe ever swamps, you don’t want to find out that a pin hole leak has allowed the flotation chambers to flood.

Posted

Coming along nicely and looking good.  If I lived anywhere even close to a lake I would definitely want to build something like this.  Would be a great way to get some exercise paddling around a lake!

Posted

This is so cool! The leaf blower was a really good idea, I wouldn’t recommend it on smaller models though lol!

 

Bradley

Current Builds:

Flying Fish - Model Shipways - 1:96

 

Future Builds:

Young America 1853 - Scratch Build - 1:72

 

Completed Builds:

HMS Racehorse - Mantua - 1:47 (No pictures unfortunately)

Providence Whale Boat - Artesania Latina - 1:25 (Also no pictures)

Lowell Grand Banks Dory - Model Shipways - 1:24

 

Shelved Builds:

Pride of Baltimore 2 - Model Shipways - 1:64 (Also no pictures)

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

 I quit vacuuming the inside of my truck years ago, no carpet, just a rubber mat sill to sill. I use the leaf blower, much simpler. 

 Nice job on the canoe, Chris. You have many leisurely days out on the water to look forward to.  

Edited by Keith Black

Current Builds: Sternwheeler from the Susquehanna River's Hard Coal Navy

                            Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                            Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                      1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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